KEY: B = breakfast L = lunch D = dinner N = late night SV = special value Prices ranges shown are for a single entree

Asian

99 Ranch Market - LD, $4-$6, SV

In the stunning Chinese Cultural Center, now home of the upcoming Festival, there is a sensational Oriental market called 99 Ranch. Inside the market is a cafeteria-style restaurant area where a variety of authentic and tourist-type foods are served at outrageously low prices. Convenient (but too few) Formica tables are available for assembling and devouring your treasures. The steam tables offer at least a dozen entrees daily, usually more. Items can be had individually, but it's more fun to sample several — and at a combination of three for fewer than five dollars, how can you lose? It even comes with soup (usually a simple chicken broth with egg and tofu and a sprinkling of veggies, or a quite credible hot and sour) and fried rice (or pan-fried noodles for an extra buck). Besides the popular mainstays, typically included for variety are such dishes as Spiced Pork with Taro, Fish Balls with Three Peppers and Black Beans, Duck with Five-Spice Sauce, Breaded Pork Chop with Tomato Sauce, and Yui-Shan Eggplant. Fried Hot and Spicy Shrimp with Stuffed Tails, Sticky Rice in Banana Leaf, Beef with White Radish, and Pork Hock with Pickled Baby Onions, Ginger and Star Anise are others to look for. Adjacent to this is a BBQ section with tempting Ducks, Chickens (including a Steam Salted and a Soy Sauce version) and Pork Ribs and Tenderloins displayed to be sold by the pound. Pork Belly and Tongue are other possibilities for the more adventurous. While on safari, go to the next case, a refrigerated assortment of prepackaged portions of side vegetables and relishes from Taiwan Express, which also serves hot soups and entrees. For something different try their BBQ Squid Soup and a Beef Pancake. Having ventured this far, why not go all the way with a made-to-order slush? Among the selections are Grass Jelly, Barley, Green Bean, Taro, Pineapple, Love Jade, Lychee and Longan. Or, try the latest craze sweeping the West Coast: Iced Tea, Green Tea, Coffee, or Plum Juice with Boba (fat beads of chewy tapioca added to the drink, and retrieved through a special wide straw provided. If you're in the market for an adventure, 99 Ranch is the one to be in.
668 N. 44th Street, Phoenix, 602-225-2288.

Aloha Kitchen - LD, $4-$8, Closed Mon.

Aloha, indeed. The talented and friendly staff here makes you feel welcome. You'll leave satiated. And you'll get an ocean of change from a $10 bill! What more could a person want? The atmosphere is somewhat perfunctory, but well prepared food — some of it quite foreign — is the specialty. Most of it comes from the Hawaiian or Japanese islands, China or Korea. You don't need to wear a lei to fall in love with the imported noodles called Saimin, which can be ordered in a shrimp soup base or four other (drier) versions, including fried and vegetarian. I don't know how authentic a Waikiki Burger or Island Hot Wings are, but I do know they don't serve fresh charbroiled Salmon basted with pulehu marinade at our local McDonalds. Nor can you find Kalua Pig with Cabbage, Lomi Salmon, and Chicken Long Rice, as you do on Wednesdays and Saturdays here, and for such a measly price! With goodies like Bulkogi from Korea; Chinese Chicken Salad, Char Siu Bao and Fried Won Ton from that red place; and Teriyaki and Katsu representing Japan, the Pacific Rim awaits you, and bids you your just dessert, a cool and refreshing Coconut Pudding.
2950 S. Alma School Road, Mesa, 480-897-2451.

Bamboo Club - LD, $7-$15+

This is the place to go when you want good Chinese food — or Japanese, or Korean, or Thai, or even Hawaiian dishes! (Even the bar serves drinks from around the globe.) You want it woked? They do it. And grilling, frying, barbecuing, steaming, and sizzling — there's something here for everyone. Favorite dishes include Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad; Chardonnay Steamed Green Mussels with Ginger and Green Onion; Mixed BBQ Platter Hong Kong Style; Singapore Style Rice Noodles with Curry, Shrimp & BBQ Pork; and Lemon Grass Beef. Their misted patio is a delightful place to spend an evening. Not open for lunch on Sundays.
8624 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale, 480-998-1287. Fax 998-8440.

Best Hong Kong Dining - LD, $4-$8

With a menu nearly as long and broad as that of the Gourmet House of Hong Kong, little is left to the imagination, even for the adventurous. How about Bean Thread & Vegetables, or Salted Fish & Chicken w/Tofu, or Duck Feet & Black Mushroom, or Catfish & Fresh Garlic, or even Squids & Eggplant in Chinese Preserved Shrimp Sauce? And those are just a few of the Hot Pot combinations. With over 235 dishes, you're bound to find your favorites, too. For noodle lovers there's Chow Fun, Chow Mein, Lo Mein, Rice Noodles, and Won Tons with a plethora of ingredients and styles. The decor is sort of gilded cafeteria, with a great display of barbecued ducks, pork, chickens, etc., just waiting to be chopped up in your favorite dish. And the prices are so low, you just might feel like you're in China.
1116 S. Dobson Road, Mesa, 480-655-8262.

The Blue Fin - LD, $4-$7+, closed Sat.-Sun.

Little more than a stand with a patio in front, this petite place has been serving midtown folks fast but tasty Japanese dishes for at least a couple of decades. Quality ingredients give this eatery the edge over the chains, and they do serve a few dishes hard to find elsewhere (try their Panko Fish with Wasabi Aioli, for instance). Even a simple Miso soup here has lots of miso, tofu cubes and wakame (a bright green crunchy seaweed), and we particularly like the Coconut Shrimp and Oyako Chicken. The adventurous shouldn't pass up the Mushipan (Japanese cheesecake), unless it's to try the Mochi (a sticky rice dessert with sweet red beans — not everyone's cup of tea, but something you could get to crave over a period of time).
1401 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-254-3171. www.phxbluefin.com.

Boca 7 - LD; most entrées $7.95-$8.50, open seven days

In a stunning setting of vibrant reds and golds, this relative newcomer had it right from the beginning. It had to, because of its unique setting - a strip center with several specialty Vietnamese restaurants. Boca 7 specializes in seven-course traditional meals, with several dishes even seasoned Valley Vietnamese aficionados might not have sampled before.
We chose both the fish and the beef dinners for a party of four (each serves two amply, but are quartet shareable if you order other dishes or a second meal), giving each diner a sampling of 14 different dishes for about $15 per person (each seven course dinner is $29.95).
I preferred the fish feast by a fin, though the beef was wonderful as well. Space here permits the details of but one, so seaward we go! It is traditional that different dishes come with a variety of greens and other fresh ingredients like bean sprouts, cucumber sticks, pickled daikon and carrots, in addition to several sauces (here we have anchovy-pineapple and chili-lemon fish sauces, both fabulous!), and Boca 7 also includes thin rice noodles and rice paper discs which come in handy as wrappers.
Course one had lightly steamed fish (intensifying its lovely orange color) as a plated salad, dotted with slivered veggies, herbs and peanuts in a chili-lime dressing - ethereally light and mild and fresh. The second course was a cool Summer Roll of ground fish balanced with fresh lemongrass, augmented with rice noodles, carrots and scallions, followed by a dish of Pepper Leaves Fish, a lively grilled dish with a Middle Eastern look and a definite Vietnamese taste. Fourth on the agenda was a seineful of deftly fried tilapia filets paired with a zesty chili-tamarind fish sauce.
The waiter swiftly but graciously cooked the lemongrass and cumin sauce marinated thinly sliced fish filets of the next course right at our table; the tantalizing fragrance of the fish on the sizzling plate preceding the delightful taste it imbued.
Proceeding on, the Fish Cakes (not at all like your typical American dessert) were nicely airy, and benefited from their onion oil, scallion and crushed peanut topping. A bit of that chili-tamarind fish sauce remained on the table from a previous dish, and, protocol be damned, it was pretty tasty with the fish cakes as well.
Finishing this astonishing feast was a bowl of soup! Most meals go from soup to nuts, this one went the opposite. Fish Rice Soup is a jook (congee or porridge of rice cooked until it literally explodes) with bits of fish scattered throughout, and a garnish of ginger, cilantro and shreds of scallion.
We were comped a deep fried banana (holding a gay mini-parasol) and ice cream dessert, but I can't promise you will be. No matter, the seven course fish dinner will fill you up in a most satisfying way. - Bill Orovan
66 S. Dobson Road, #133 (just south of Main Street, at the end of the light rail), Mesa, 480-649-9777, www.boca7.com.

Canton Dragon - LD, $5-$11

When they said go west, young man, they weren't searching for great Chinese food. This decidedly dressed-down restaurant, however, serves dishes far better than its location would indicate. The Hot and Sour Soup is practically awesome, and General Tso's Chicken in no slouch, either. Seafood lovers will be impressed with Seven Stars and a Moon, a visual and a gustatory delight.
7307 W. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 623-846-6125.

Canton Wong - LD, $4-$7, SV, closed Mon.

This miniscule restaurant is not exactly the ultimate gourmet destination, but it's not in Scottsdale, either. For a westside Chinese restaurant, it holds its own, foodwise, quite well. And the prices are so low they look like they've been transferred from a menu in Shanghai. Maria, the owner, is as pleasant and accommodating as can be. Delivery is free on orders over $12, and from the hustle and bustle of drivers (and customers for pick-up), more goes out the door than is consumed on the small premises. You can't go wrong with the Hot and Sour, Wor Wonton, or Sizzling Rice Seafood soups. Dinner items of note include Szechuan Beef, Chow Sam Sin (Chicken, Shrimp, and Beef), Yui Shan Spicy Pork, Bean Curd with Lobster Sauce, Moo Shu Shrimp and Beef Chow Fun. As an added incentive, they have a little gift area with jade, Chinese jewelry, and real pearls at peasant prices.
6721 W. Bethany Home Road, Glendale, 623-848-0053.

China Chili - LD, $6-$12+, SV

While the benefits of a light rail system carving its way through the Valley are mostly obvious solely in the long haul or grand scheme of things, one immediate side effect of the crippling construction is the development of new pockets of shopping and dining. One of said "pockets" is developing around Third Street and Flower and it is starting with one of the best and fastest Chinese restaurants in Central Phoenix.
Luncheon Specials ($6.95 - $7.65), which include soup, a veggie egg roll and jasmine rice, are pretty mainstream to keep the selection relatively simple. And its five chefs and four helpers keep the dishes coming out at an amazingly fast pace. They do include local signature dishes of Orange Chicken and House Special Chicken with a pleasant trace of chili (after all, that's this restaurant's surname!) to waken up your taste buds.
The thing that really separates China Chili from other restaurants is their quality of ingredients. In the House Special Chicken, a moist and flavorful whole breast (rather than overcooked strips) is cooked with a crunchy but delicate batter crust, then thinly sliced and served in a knockout garlic sauce.
As you would predict at an eatery that pays homage to the chili pepper, the Kung Pao (Chicken, Fish or Shrimp) is exemplary. Two noteworthy and vegetarian dishes that you don't find on many other noontime menus: the Sichuan Style String Beans, quickly blistered in the wok and tossed with a scrumptious dark chili garlic sauce, and the MaPo Tofu, a contrast of cool soft bean curd (with carrots and peas) and spicy chili bean sauce, should make this a destination restaurant for all serious Sinophiles.
All the lunch items are available at dinner, but many other wonderful dishes are added to the nighttime fare. We found nothing wanting — or unusual — with the Crab Cheese Puffs, Fried Golden "Prawns" or Pot Stickers, but would rather skip these pedestrian tidbits in favor of something like the BBQ Pork Slices, here served in a zesty sauce that does not reek of Chinese five spice.
The Mongolian Beef had ginger and hot peppers to take it way up to the next level. Chicken in Phoenix Nest (deep-fried shredded potato) can be found in many Chinese restaurants around town, but this version has a much tastier (Beijing bean) sauce, lots of fresh mushrooms, and a lighter, more pastry-like nest.
We also enjoyed the House Chow Fun (chicken, beef and shrimp), but felt a little more sesame oil would make it jump. We asked for it, sprinkled it on, tossed it about, and wow, what a wonderful difference! The Crispy Noodles (thin ones, like angel hair), Hong Kong Style, was magnificent as served, redolent of chicken, sweet scallops, squid, shrimp and al dente veggies, in a light, unobtrusive sauce. And we could go on for days. But try it for yourself if you haven't already. And if you haven't returned since their move to this developing corridor, shame on you! Whoever says all the truly good places are dive-y, clearly haven't been to China Chili. 
302 E. Flower St. (northeast corner at Third St.), Phoenix, 602-266-4463.

China Rainbow - LD $4-$9, SV

With the rash of building in the last decade, this part of the Valley can hardly be considered a frontier anymore. On the other hand, good oriental restaurants in the neighborhood are not a dime a dozen. When I first saw the name of this establishment, I though this might be a port in a storm. After tasting their wares, I do recommend it to stranded Sinophyles. Naturally, its very reasonable prices only add to the endorsement. The range of items is more limited than at some of the inner city's places, but there are a few dishes of unusual note, starting off with an appetizer of Szechwan-Style Wonton in Hot Sauce. The Garlic Shrimp are highly recommended, as is the Hunan Lamb. If you don't like your dishes spicy, try the crispest Szechwan Smoked Duck around. Pecan Shrimp is another winner for those with a chili aversion, and Canton Style Fish (filet) is great for diners who like fish but would rather not look their dinner in the eye. Several dishes mentioned are available as Luncheon Specials with soup, egg roll, fried wonton, fried rice and hot tea for ridiculously low prices.
6630 W. Cactus Road #102, Glendale, 623-878-2233.

Chino Bandido Takee-Outee - LD, $4-$7, SV

Or eatee-inee, the choice is yours. Your other basic choice is of the 13 Mexican and Chinese influenced toppings for your Rice Bowl (or bean bowl), Burrito or Quesadilla. Combinations are another way to go, like Jerk Chicken and Chile Relleno, Machaca and Egg Foo Yung, or Carnitas and Hengrenade Chicken. Consider the odd food combinations the only atmosphere here. Oh, I almost forgot about the Snickerdoodles!
15414 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-375-3639.

Chodang Tofu and B.B.Q. - LD; ($8.25 - $24.95), Wednesday - Monday 1 1am - 9:30 p.m

There is a time and a place for everything. With the weather still mild and cool, and moisture still in the air from the rain, I felt the craving for Soon Tofu. If you're unfamiliar with Soon Tofu, be warned: it's all about the drama, the taste and the satisfaction that not many soups can bring. Essentially it's spicy Korean soft tofu soup, though it could also be considered a stew since it's so hearty and rib sticking.
As soon as your order is placed, they bring out banchan, which are several different side dishes in varying tastes and interest. Bean sprouts drizzled with sesame seed oil, kimchi, pickled seaweed and sometimes-odd items like potato salad, or in our case, an apple and cucumber Waldforf-type salad.
Now, there is no need for this, but we started with one of the noodle salads, No. 63 Chik Bibim Nyung-Myun ($9.95), shredded cabbage mixed with long stretchy black arrowroot noodles all layered in a slightly spicy and pungent dressing. The arrowroot noodles are unlike any you've ever tried before. I'd lovingly call them edible rubber bands because they have plenty of pull, spring and snap.
The Soon Tofu comes in 11 different variations, ranging from seafood to fish roe as well as pork, beef and dumpling. On this visit, No. 9 ($9.25) was calling, a spicy red broth, with garlic, chili, silken tofu and a handful of perfectly cooked vegetable dumplings. It's served in an earthenware pot that's been heated in the oven that is so blazing hot, it's literally boiling. Then the server cracks a raw egg into the boiling soup, which comes with a bowl of steamed rice. Since each diner gets his or her own bowl of rice, you simply spoon small amounts of tofu soup onto the rice and eat away.
No matter what the time of the year, know that Chodang Tofu can satisfy your inner cravings.
501 N Arizona Ave., Chandler. Phone: (480) 855-7712

Cyclo - LD, $5-$8, SV, closed Sun. & Mon.

Look for the cyclo (people-powered Vietnamese taxi, pronounced sea cloh) in front of this modest Chandler shop. Inside, vivacious Justina Duong tries to placate the hoards of waiting customers while putting out some of the best Vietnamese vittles this side of the Mekong Delta. Most every dish on the menu can be found at other restaurants around town, but somehow they all look and taste better here. Whatever her secret is, it certainly does work. This tiny, unpretentious eatery has begun to attract national attention, too, so getting seated between 5 and 9 (10 on weekends) usually means a half-hour to full hour wait — but, it's worth it! Your dream dinner might start off with Pork Short Ribs in Tamarind Glaze and Thai Basil, then progress to Chicken and Pineapple Curry with Kaffir Lime, Green Beans, Thai Basil and Jasmine Rice. Throw in some Stir Fried Bok Choy and Oyster Mushrooms with Fried Shallots and Fish Sauce and life could hardly be better — unless, of course, you have the Jasmine Crème Brûlee for the crowning finale! Another ethereal scenario might begin with their Green Papaya Salad with Shrimp, Peanuts and Mint, followed by Crispy Lemongrass Chicken with Chili, Garlic and Soy, served with Jasmine Rice and an order of Spicy Garlic Green Beans in Chili and Sweet Soy. Cap it all with a dish of Fresh Asian Mango, Black Sticky Rice and Sweet Coconut Milk. Mmmmmm!
1919 W. Chandler Blvd., Suite 2 (SE corner at Dobson), Chandler, 480-963-4490.

Da Vang - BLD, $4-$6, SV

This, the first Vietnamese cafe in the Valley, has been serving delicious soups and noodle dishes for more than a decade. When I first discovered this tiny storefront, there were no menus, nobody spoke the least bit of English, and I was the only Anglo in sight. I would wait until someone ordered something that looked good (fortunately, most everything did), point to it, and hope for the best. I never was disappointed. Still in the same location (but four times the size), there now are menus, some English is spoken, the patrons are multi-ethnic, and, amazingly, the prices are just a token amount higher. Meal-sized soups, the house specialty, come loaded with various meats (and obscure meat parts) and/or seafoods and noodles in large bowls accompanied with plates of bean sprouts, lettuce, jalapeños and exotic greens (and purples) for self-garnishing. The rice paper rolls stuffed with shrimp and pork with a spicy dipping sauce are great starters ($1.60/pair), and Vietnamese iced coffee w/condensed milk (in individual drip filters at your table) is de rigueur. All desserts ($1.50) are variations of rice and bean puddings, come in plastic glasses, and, unless your language skills are up to snuff, are point and hope.
4538 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-242-3575.

Diamond's Chinese Restaurant - L D; ($3.95); 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Closed Wednesdays.

I love the rundown, family- run hole-in-the-walls restaurants They usually make some of the best food around. While Diamond's isn't the best around, it's certainly solid, authentic-style Chinese cooking. Look around; you'll probably be the only non-ethnic diner in the place, which is a very good sign. On our visit, the place was busy with Asian customers. I'd say they are far more discerning than most and the harshest critics if it's horrible.
They do offer the American-style dishes, but I strongly recommend that you not even look at that menu. So first things first, ask for the Chinese/Vietnamese menu, this is where Diamond's really shines. On the back page of the menu, you'll find full family style meals that are complete and affordable. We ended up ordering the No. 3, which was a huge selection of varied dishes. Dry Fried Rice Noodle with Beef, Half Roast Duck, Half Crispy Chicken, Lobster with Ginger and Onion, Whole Steamed Fish, Subgum Tofu and Chinese Broccoli with Beef, all for under $54! I felt like we were at some sort of celebration, as each dish emerged from the kitchen. All the dishes were well-prepared and tasty. The steamed fish, as well as the lobster, came right out of the tanks in the front of the restaurant. Talk about fresh!
I only have a couple of gripes. I love soda pop pairings with Chinese food, the carbonation cuts through some of the oilier flavors and leaves you ready to eat more. While Diamond's does serve pop, they serve it from a warm can, which, when poured over ice, waters down the sought after carbonation. My other problem is their use of oil on some dishes. The steamed fish was cooked perfectly, but then they cover it in this oily sauce that lacked flavor and simply did not add to the dish whatsoever. If you order the fish, ask for them to not use oil in the sauce.
With so many different real deal Chinese dishes to choose from, why even bother with sweet and sour?
4402 N. 7th Ave. Phoenix. Phone: (602) 263-8926

Dozo Japanese Cuisine - LD, $7-$13, Closed Sun.

Some months ago an ordinary Chinese fast food joint quietly underwent a metamorphosis to become a striking Japanese butterfly. Dozo, with its large and friendly sushi bar, is devoted to a vast selection of the freshest Sashimi, Sushi and Maki Rolls, but also has a dining room where mostly Teriyaki, Tempura, Katsu and Udon dishes are served (of course the raw stuff can be ordered there as well). Show your pride and order the Rainbow Roll, a showy variety of colorful fish, or one of my favorites, the ugly but delicious Uni, or the wonderful Salmon Skin Roll. If you can't stomach the raw stuff but don't want to let on to others, order the Tamago and the Inari (they're an egg omelet and cooked bean curd) as if you're a regular. Other special dishes include Calamari and Octopus Cake, Tuna Tataki, BBQ Calamari, Salmon Teriyaki, Unaju and Chicken Karage.
4320 N. Miller Road, Scottsdale, 480-941-3838, www.sushidozo.com.

Erawan Restaurant - LD, $4-$10

The students at The American School of International Management (Thunderbird), themselves of international origin, know a good place when they find it. Erawan makes it easier by being right around the corner. But, within a Mark McGuire home run distance or not, they wouldn't flock there if the food weren't authentic and good. As an added bonus, the prices are right, too. Here you will find all the usual Thai dishes — as spicy or not, as you wish — but you won't find any off-the-wall items. One of my favorite starters is the Sausage Salad, the pork wiener being sweet and mild, mixed with cukes, green onions and touched with lime juice for a cool, sweet and tart mixture. A good soup to share is the Erawan Special Seafood Soup, a Thai classic, made spicy and sour with lemon grass and lime juice. Curries are an important part of this cuisine, and here they are prepared quite well, whether you prefer a medium spicy green with coconut milk to a hot red with shrimp and pineapple. Noodle lovers don't despair; the Paht Thai and a half-dozen others will soothe your soft spot. Want breakfast for dinner? The Erawan Omelette with ground pork, tomato and onion will fill the bill, although the only coffee you'll get here is the Thai version — iced, with sweetened condensed milk (or without, if you choose).
15615 N. 59th Ave., Glendale, 602-978-1641.

Fuji Buffet - LD $7.99-$10.99

Now, with an emphasis on fastidiously fresh seafood and sushi, a younger and more enthusiastic ownership has, like the Phoenix Bird, risen from the (symbolic) ashes and blossomed into the new and highly recommended Fuji Buffet. The food selections are fewer than before, but all — and I do mean all — the selections we tried (with the exception of the salad and dessert dishes) were better than those same dishes prepared to order in most Asian restaurants. After all, who could even sample 150 dishes? Wouldn't you prefer to make a meal with fewer selections, but having every dish be fresh and well prepared and, especially, taste distinctively from the one next to it?
Things like tender Roast Duck, massive fall-off-the-bone Beef Ribs with their tangy sauce, crispy panko Fried Chicken, Korean Short Ribs, Skewers of Beef or Chicken, and Mongolian Beef, just to name a few featured items that are not oriented toward the sea. Their tours de force are the denizens of the deep, from briny Oysters on the Half-Shell, sweet Crab Legs and Claws to crack open, and plump Boiled Shrimp to Sautéed Baby Octopus and rich Stuffed Prawns. Where else will you find Deep-Fried Lobster or giant Oysters prepared in a Black Bean Sauce? Mussels are served cooked on the half-shell or broiled with a creamy topping. Steamed Baby Clams are small but bursting with buttery flavor and worth the extra work. Various tender fish fillets come Baked, Steamed and Batter Fried in addition to an agreeably restrained Sweet and Sour. Ditto the Orange Shrimp, which far too often are gloppy sweet ... but not here. And the Coconut Shrimp, with their light dusting of cornstarch, are totally addicting.
1575 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-604-1800. Open 7 days 11am to 10pm

Great Wall Cuisine - L, $4-$10, SV

Many places in the Valley serve well prepared Chinese food, but only a handful spends the big bucks to hire a Dim Sum Chef. Of this handful, the Great Wall is one of the best, not only for the quality of the little jewels, but for the great variety it serves (especially on weekends, when large Chinese families and friends make a social event of this midday meal). Before I go further — and you get the wrong idea — let me say this restaurant also has a full menu of very competently prepared regional dishes. Here we are commenting strictly on the Dim Sum, which, resting on two-tiered carts, are pushed down the aisles by well meaning waitresses who, unfortunately, practically have no knowledge of English at all. The diners choose small platefuls of one-or-two bite morsels, which usually come two or three to a plate. If it looks good, pick it, because the best description you are likely to get is one word, such as "pork," "shrimp," etc. Have patience. There may be as many as 50 or more selections rolling by, usually not more than a half-dozen on any one cart. The range of starring ingredients goes from beef stew to chicken feet (and from Almond Jell to Thousand Years Egg Pastry for the sweets). Among my favorites of the less exotics are the Pork Ribs with Black Beans, the Pan Fried Turnip Cakes, and the Mango Pudding for dessert. At the end of the meal, the plates are counted and the bill is tallied. Plates run from $1.90 to $4.50 per, depending on the contents, but it's very hard to run up a bill of $10 and not have a dragon bag to take home for a future meal.
5057 N. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-973-1112.

Hana - LD, $8-$20+

On Maui, the famous Road to Hana is known for its many curves and one-lane bridges, in addition to the outstanding scenery encountered along the way. In Phoenix, the road to Hana (assuming you're headed up Central and across on Camelback during light rail construction) probably has even more twists and turns than its Hawaiian counterpart, and surely many more potholes! That is, until December of next year (they say). At any rate, the destination is a small, unpretentious Japanese cafe that serves extremely well prepared dishes at somewhat elevated prices. There really is nothing too exotic on the menu, but everything they serve is top notch and their fish is so fresh you'd think it just jumped out of the water onto your plate. The Clams, Oysters and the Squid are great starters, and then make sure you pick one of the two soups (the Miso Shiru and the Osuimono — both are good selections) before going on to a lovely Noodle Entree or perhaps a pot of Hana Yasai Suki (like a vegetable Sukiyaki). Here they have a wide variety of Bento Box Lunches, and I enjoyed every bit of my Hana Bento ($14.25) with six pieces of silken sashimi, a big California roll, tempura with big fat shrimp and crunchy veggies, and some exotic pickled okra, lotus root, squash (tastes like sweet potato, only better) and a few more. Be forewarned, dinner dishes can go all the way up to $35.95.
5524 N. 7th Ave., 602-973-1238.

HoDoRi Korean Restaurant - LD, $7-$15+

Korean foods are probably the most distinct of all the Asian countries whose cuisines have been imported and popularized in the States. Almost all dishes listed come with an assortment of six to eight side dishes — the number and contents varying according to the whim of the chef — and rice. House Special Soft Tofu Soup, Pan-Fried Pancakes of Kimchee with Meat, Sam-Gyae-Tahng, Black Cod and Tofu Steaks with Korean Radishes and BBQ Short Ribs with Kalbi Sauce give you an idea of the range. Please be aware of the little pepper symbols on the menu — they're not kidding.
1116 S. Dobson Road, 480-668-7979.

Hong Kong Asian Diner - LD, $5-$12

The menu at this storefront, frequented mostly by Asians, is primarily Chinese, but it branches out into many Pacific Rim countries with a dish or two apiece. Standouts include Chinese Tossed Shredded Chicken Salad, Macao Beef Chow Fun, Malaysia Shrimp, Pork Steak with Udon, Chicken Patyala, Saigon Seafood Bowl and Steamed Fresh Salted & Black Eggs.
9880 S. Rural Road, 480-705-7486.

Hula's Modern Tiki - D only(serving late on weekends), $10-$15

For those who think Hawaiian food is a slab of Spam, two scoops of macaroni salad and one of potato salad, Hula's Modern Tiki will be a breath of fresh air.
Located in the middle of the gayborhood, just in front of Unique Urban Boutique, Hula's most recently was a flower shop. Well, you wouldn't recognize it any more. Extensive renovations have changed the formerly unique building into a sleek but welcoming eatery for CenPho in the 21st century.
In all but the most extreme weather, the glass-paneled garage doors will be pulled up to make the bar, dining room and patio into one big glorious space where updated versions of "tiki" foods will be served by a zealous waitstaff, intent upon making your dining experience into a carefree repose.
Suggested starters include Island Style Poke (this version with avocado and macadamia nuts!), fresh wakame Seaweed Salad with a delicate sesame dressing (proving healthy can be delicious too), and a tangy, milky and spicy Hawaiian Ceviche.
Follow it up with soy-glazed juicy Duke's Luau Pork Plate, wonderful South Seas Fish Tacos or Hula's Pan-Fried Hapu (a delicate mild white fish flown in from Hawaii) covered with wok-seared shitake mushrooms in a light soy-miso sauce.
Skip the Banana Butterscotch Pudding in favor of the Key Lime Pie, made in house.
The house wines are big pours of decent vino at very reasonable prices. They say lunches will begin on Nov. 1. - Bill Orovan
4700 N. Central Ave., 602-265-TIKI (8454), www.HulasModernTiki.com.

Kabuki Japanese Restaurant - L & D ($7.95-$14.95)

Kabuki Japanese restaurant serves it up any way you want and then some.
While we Phoenicians may not fully comprehend the extent of our Western sprawl, we do seem to often crave Eastern culture. Especially when it comes to food. Not just another sushi bar, Kabuki is a Japanese destination for every food lover, from the novice to the expert.
Kabuki is a form of 17th century classical theatre, which explains its logo — a bright red mask shaped face. It stares at you like a sentinel from its perch high up on the cold plaster cliffs of the entrance. The lobby is a towering room flanked by shelf after climbing shelf of sake bottles. The dusty glass shelves give an impression of ancient temples, although this is probably the result of an acrophobic cleaning crew. The red clad hostess seems small and frail in this cavernous place as she forces a smile.
The sushi bar to the right has the feel of a contemporary Japanese airport bar, or at least what I think it would feel like. A curved wooden wave of twisted pale beams floats above the sushi chefs. Its recessed lights illuminate the chefs and patrons alike while hiding the rough exposed pipes and vents running along the ceiling.
Layered glass wedges with multicolored glowing edges separate the bar/sushi bar from the unassuming dining room. Dark wood textured tile and simple Japanese décor compliment larger architectural elements. None of which bring us any closer to eating.
If you are a drinker, the selection is vast and the price is reasonable. Their cocktail menu ranges from classical college drinks (Mai Tais, Long Islands, etc.) to the cougar friendly Martinis, and into the experimental with sake and sojo concoctions. The Lychee Mojito was an excellent deviation from the traditional Cuban drink. Cloudy with pureed lychee, this drink was dangerously smooth.
The menu at Kabuki is a proverbial cornucopia of Japanese cuisine. The 20-plus hot appetizers cover every gamut of food from simple Tempura and elegantly seared Scallop Butteryaki to more traditional Sautéed Shishito Peppers in Garlic Sauce. But the almost equally large menu of cold apps is where we dove in.
For the tuna fan, there are four cold, mouth-watering options: Tuna Tartar, Yellowtail Tartar, the exotic Tuna and Avocado Cocktail, and the Fire Cracker. These dishes range from mild (both in spice and flavor) to spicy and exciting. The Firecracker is a biting mix of spicy tuna and tomato mixed and served in a heaping portion with a side of fried eggroll chips, a must for tuna fans.
Once you've picked out an appetizer or five, it's time to try and tackle the rest of the menu. Like all Eastern Asian food, I suggest sharing everything. Here at Kabuki that is the only way you'll be able to try even a fraction of the menu without going broke (or moving up a couple belt notches). The rest of the menu is further divided into an impressive selection of sushi and rolls, a large lunch and dinner menu, a series of soups and noodles, and finally a decent range of gourmet dishes.
For dessert, try the traditional Mochi ice cream balls in green tea, coffee and mango.
2000 E. Rio Salado Parkway, Tempe. Phone: 480-350-9160

Krua Thai - LD, $4-$12, closed Sun.

Imagine, a terrific little Thai restaurant quietly going about serving its neighborhood for over two years before we just accidentally found out about it. Where were my restaurant spies? Just remember, it's a small place and can't handle very big parties all at once. There are three things that really impress me about this place: the food is fabulous, the prices are miniscule, and the service is caring and attentive. Appetizers, which start out at under $2 and mostly remain under $6, include Larb and Todd Mun Pla, two of my favorites. No matter which Thai restaurant I go to, I always like to include a bowl of Tom Kha, a soup of coconut milk broth with lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, galanga root, chili, mushrooms, cilantro and fresh lime juice; a wonderful taste combination. Normally it comes in a donut-shaped hot pot, with some type of burner in the center to keep it warm, which usually fills about six small bowls and goes for eight dollars or more. But, what if I want Tom Kha and my buddy wants Tom Yum (or Woon Sen or even Keow Num, for that matter)? Here the problem is solved with delicious medium-sized portions (two to three of those other tiny bowls) at $2.95-$3.95 a pop. Although the list of entrees is a little less ambitious than most, the limited kitchen space is not set up for huge crowds or extensive variety. However, what they do, they do well. The other day I had an exquisite Gangped Ped Yakng (Roast duck with pineapple, tomatoes and lots of fresh basil in a red curry with coconut cream sauce). It was every bit as good as the one I had at a famous Scottsdale emporium (for considerably more money) just a couple of months ago. With over thirty other dishes, most of your favorites will be here, too. Do indulge before you get to desserts, however, because neither of their offerings is very exciting.
1601 E. Bell Rd., Phoenix, 602-971-971-4988.

Koi - L&D, $5.95-$15.50+ (plus all-you can eat sushi dinners, $24.95)

Koi offers many cooked alternatives, which, although well prepared, are generally as not earth-shatteringly distinctive as the blue glass plates that greet the diners when they first sit down. The Spring Rolls, Gyoza, and Miso Soup (included with most meals) fall into this category, but I must say the Tempura (we tried the vegetable and shrimp combo) was exceptionally light, crunchy and tender — even the fat stalks of asparagus. The Chicken Teriyaki Salad, just a tad on the sweet side, had an enormous portion of moist breast meat for a very satisfying lunch all by itself. The Teriyaki Chicken Wing appetizer (six meaty drumettes) sprinkled with white sesame seeds, somehow didn't seem overly sweet, although the sauce was the same. I guess dark and light meats cook and combine differently.
The Short Ribs came out as a single slab, complete with random bones, a strange but satisfactory presentation. Taste-wise it was right on, and a crunchy asparagus spear along with a mound of white rice, were perfect foils to the unexpectedly tender piece of meat. We also tried Shrimp cooked in two distinctively different ways: Yaki Udon, tossed with delightfully chewy pan fried thick noodles and veggies, a great combination; and in a spicy Stew with Tofu, Shrimps and Scallops, served in a stoneware casserole to keep the temperature as hot as the spices.
One of the lunchtime options that we prefer is the Bento Box, a lacquered sectioned tray that holds a plethora of goodies for a mere $7.99. You pick the meat from a list of six (we went with the Spicy Pork [Daeji Bulgogi] a deliciously wise choice), and got pieces of sweet potato, zucchini and shrimp tempura, a spring roll, rice and a salad along with ample pieces of the aforementioned main event.
Although parts of some of the 50 signature sushi presentations (each one named after a state) are cooked — and 28 other sushi dishes are completely cooked — the majority is raw.
For dessert they make their own Green Tea and Red Bean Ice Creams, and possibly the six flavors of Mochi Ice Cream (covered in ground sticky rice, something that tastes far better than it sounds like it would). The Tempura Cheese Cake is at least fried in the kitchen, and it's not unlikely that it's made here from scratch. The concept is interesting, and it has a pleasant taste (and texture) I could easily get used to.
So, it really doesn't matter whether you're a serious sushiphyle or just want an enticing meal, Koi will provide you with a most pleasant experience without intimidating you or your wallet.
4372 W. Olive Ave. (Olive becomes Dunlap in Glendale), Glendale, 623-937-4477. Fax 623-937-4478.

Lemon Grass Thai Cuisine - LD, $6-$9+, closed Sundays

A welcome addition to the neighborhood, this tidy cafe has all the standards done quite competently, but not much in the way of exotics. The Appetizers and Desserts are probably the most divergent areas. Stuffed Chicken Wings, Tod Mun (Fish Cakes) and Golden Nest are delightful openers, which you'll be happy to follow with one of their Curries (Green, Yellow, Red, Masaman, Gang Pa and Peanut are all good), a Stir Fry dish or perhaps a Noodle entree. The hearty Soups come in two sizes to serve two or four, and they have most of your favorite Salads, like Laab, Calamari and Mango (with Shrimp). For something a little different, go for the White Salad (white cabbage, chicken and shrimp in coconut dressing topped with fried onions). Great daily specials, too. End with Thai Sweet Sticky Purple Rice, Yuga Cake or Thai Custard.
818 W. Broadway Road; 480-967-9121.

Little Saigon - LD, $3-$9

Crab Asparagus Soup, Rice-Flour Coconut-Battered Cakes topped with Shrimp, Charbroiled Ground Beef Wrapped in Grape Leaves, and Maloney Rice Noodle (big fat broad ones) are a few of my favorite things at this cute little Glendale cottage. I also highly recommend Mussels with Lemon Grass, Lotus Root with Shrimp & Pork, Black Peppered & Spiced Pork & Shrimp served with Fish Sauce and Charbroiled Pork Chop with Shredded Pork, Egg Cake and Broken Rice, with a Mango and Carrot Boba, Preserved Salted Plum Soda or Sweet Lychee drink.
7016 N. 57th Ave. Glendale, 623-939-6136. Fax 623-939-6640.

Malee's on Main - LD, $6-$19

Unquestionably the best Thai restaurant in the Valley, this is arguably one of the best Oriental restaurants in town. Light and cheery in the daytime, romantic at night, this is the darling of the cognoscenti, and for good reason: The food is superb! (Being located in the heart of Main Street's art gallery district doesn't hurt, either.) It's hard to find a bad dish here, but easy to discover some great ones. Their Tom Ka Gai is the standard to judge all others from. Tropical Pineapple finds a whole pineapple stuffed with shrimps, scallops, chicken and pineapple chunks in a coconut curry sauce with Kaffir leaves. Everyone's beloved dish, however, seems to be the sassy Spicy Crispy Pla — and there's enough to easily divide the portion to serve two. Here, a pair of deep fried filets of mild white fish is bathed in a sauce that is simultaneously sweet, hot, vinegary, and garlicky. Some of my other favorites are Chinese Sausage Salad, Larb, Dancing Shrimp, Ho Muk, Flaming Cornish Game Hen, Pla Brio Wan, Pad Se Lew, and almost every curry on the menu!
7131 E. Main St., Scottsdale, 480-947-6042.

Maxim Restaurant - BLD, $4-$7

The nondescript decor here is typical of most Vietnamese restaurants in the Valley, and the listing has the obligatory sections of soups. What makes this place different from the rest is the variety of Banh Cuon (Rice Flour Rolls) offered. The range of fillings/toppings includes ground pork, ground shrimp, vegetables, yam cake, Vietnamese ham, BBQ pork, pork tips and deep fried whole shrimp tempura yam cake. Other specialties consist of Bo Bia (spring roll filled with Chinese sausage, egg and vegetables), Bun Tom Thit Nuong (Vermicelli noodles with BBQ shrimp, pork and vegetables), and Ga Xao Xa Ot (Lemongrass chicken). Don't fail to undertake Bo Nuong La Nho (BBQ beef wrapped in grape leaves & vegetables) — it's really quite tasty. Be adventurous with your beverage and order Nhan Nhuc (juice of dried longan cooked), or Xi Muoi (iced salty plum), or Sinh To (a fruit shake of sour sop or sapota or ?). Be aware that Maxim is closed for dinner on Sundays.
3424 N. 19th Ave. Phoenix, 602-234-2710.

Nabuo at the Teeter House - LD, Tuesday through Sunday

James Beard Award winner Nabuo Fukuda struts his stuff at Nabuo at the Tetter House, a Victorian bungalow bedecked in understated Japanoiserie in Heritage Square in Phoenix.
His unique creations are small plates with grand flavors — a Japanese version of tapas — like a melt-in-your-mouth soft shell crab sandwich, a tangy salad of watermelon and goat cheese, luscious pork belly buns, Okonomiyaki (a seafood and pork pancake with a spicy sauce) and tender coconut curry baby lamb chops.
There's also a nice selection of exotic aromatic teas or sakis.
Nobuo is an artist with a palette full of exotic ingredients juxtaposed to tantalize the most jaded of palates. It's wonderfully unique!
622 E. Adams St., Phoenix, 602-254-0600; www.nobuofukuda.com

New Garden Restaurant - LD, $4-$7, Closed Wed., SV

It doesn't always take a detective to find a good, solid Chinese restaurant in town, but this place is full of them, and beat cops, motorcycle cops, cruiser cops and various and sundry other police personnel. On the main drag, but off the beaten path, New Garden long has been a fixture in this part of town. And, if you think it may look a little seedy now, you should have seen it when it was the "old" Garden, before the remodeling and redecorating (and I use that term very loosely). The food, however, belies its ordinary surroundings. Of special note are the gigantic and deliciously greasy Egg Rolls, like none you've had before. Also in the too-tasty-to-let-your-dog-have-the-doggy-bag category are the three huge crisp-edged Egg Foo Young patties that come in an order (I like the pork ones best, although the shrimp variety are not far behind), engulfed in a rich brown gravy that sometimes reaches beyond the borders of the large oval platter on which they are served. Another fave of mine is the Chicken Chop Suey Noodles, a dish more authentic and tasty than it sounds. There are two caveats, however: we would forgive you if you were to pass on the ho-hum Hot and Sour Soup, and be aware that the Garden is closed for lunch on Saturdays.
823 S. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-254-9110.

Pan Asia Restaurant - LD; Sushi mostly $4-$14, open seven days

It was inevitable, but South Phoenix finally got a sushi house worth gushing about.
The huge dining area of Pan Asia has that franchise look in an Oriental sort of way, with a large sushi bar hugging the back wall and rows of tables in front to peruse the parking lot through a grand wall of windows.
The thrust of the cuisine is "Unique Sushi Dishes" and "Fusion Cuisine," the former actually being more fusion than the somewhat traditional latter.
My recent dinner began with a tepid Miso Soup ($2), which should have been hotter and could have stood a lot more of its namesake to suit me. I looked at the young waitstaff (who had to answer several of my questions by consulting with the chefs) and the corporate looking surroundings (it is, however, an independent), and thought the rest of the meal will most probably be on a par with the soup. Boy, was I surprised when the Lisa Lisa Crunchy Roll ($6 at Happy Hour prices, $9 regularly) arrived. The combination of shrimp tempura, avocado and cream cheese sounded intriguing, and a crunchy rice crust sealed the deal, but it also was served so beautifully - like a bouquet of three flowers (the ginger and the wasabi being the other two) I had to take its picture (OK, so you know that's a ruse, but the waitress didn't).
I've had, and enjoyed, a Squid Salad elsewhere, but this one was one of the most perfect in balance of tastes and textures (the squid was tender, the seaweed nice and crunchy, and the marinade delightfully piquant but not overbearing, $6).
Then came The Bomb (that's what they call it). A half-dozen bundles of rosy salmon encased small pockets of spicy tuna, topped with scallions, scallops, and flying fish roe, all drizzled with eel sauce, surrounding a mound of julienne cut daikon. This one was accidentally omitted from the menu, but it probably sells for about $14-$15, and is $9 at Happy Hour.) All in all, I saved about $9 by ordering before 7 p.m.
Other interesting sounding rolls from the "Best Seller Menu" include Fire Roll, Fresh Salmon Martini, Spider Roll, Twist Roll, Pan Asia Fire Starter #1, Screaming Orgasm and Surf and Turf Roll... plus all the usuals and a variety of Asian (but mostly Chinese traditional) dishes as well. Raise a cup of Sake to this Southside beacon of civility. - Bill Orovan
2485 E. Baseline Road, Suite No. 157, Phoenix, 602-268-6868, www.pan-asia-restaurant.com.

Pho Bang Restaurant - LD, $6-$8

This long-standing cafe specializes in what might be called the Vietnamese national dish, Pho. It is a beef broth soup with rice noodles and one or more of the following: Eye of Round (rare [fresh] or well done), Brisket, Tendon, Omosa, Navel, Flank and Beef Meat Balls. This works out to 15 different menu listings, although I'm sure the combinations permeate out to more. Pho Bang's phos are priced to give you more bang for your buck. Other favorites of mine are the Chicken Curry Served w/French Bread, Pepper Catfish Simmered w/Special Sauce Served in a Clay Pot and, believe it or not, the Yang Chow Fried Rice w/Shrimp, BBQ Pork, Chinese Style Sausage, Egg and Vegetables. Obviously, this is not your normal fried rice! All the usual fascinating Vietnamese drinks are offered. Try the Salty Plum Soda or the Three Color Sweet Beans.
1702 W. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-433-9440.

Phú Thành Restaurant - Daily, $2-$7+

Phú Thành in Mesa is a no-frills kind of place. Though clearly from another era, it is clean and functional. The service is friendly and the kitchen is fast.
The No. 50 Chà Gio ($2) is what good Vietnamese cooking is all about. Two golden-brown, crunchy egg rolls filled with shrimp and pork are served with a plate of lettuce leaves and herbs. You wrap the egg roll in lettuce and garnish with mint and cilantro, then dunk them into the house-made nuoc cham, a sweet and spicy dipping sauce. The fresh lettuce and herbs cut through the richness of the egg roll, which on its own might be slightly oily.
Applying the same approach, the No. 54 Bánh Xèo ($3.95) replaces the rolls with a pan-fried rice flour crepe. The exterior is slightly crispy, while the soft interior is filled with shrimp and bean sprouts. It's full of flavor and texture.
Pho (pronounced like the bad word) is not only fun to say, but fun to eat. Eight versions of the noodle soup are offered, from traditional beef to chicken.
Along with the condiments at the table, the soup comes with a plateful of basil and bean sprouts. But also include limes and chilis to add texture, flavor and depth to your pho experience.
For something hearty and comforting, the No. 7 Mì Bò Kho ($4.75) is a bowl of chewy egg noodles filled with a beef stew. Tender pieces of stewed carrots and beef grace the rich and complex flavors of the dark and tasty brew.
830 W. Southern Ave., Mesa; 480-833-8805

Restaurant Takamatsu - LD, $6-$15+

Lucky for you if you live in the west part of the Valley, for Takamatsu is about as authentic and colorful a far east (Korean and Japanese) restaurant as you will find this side of the San Andreas Fault. Although it may seem like a gimmick, the BBQ and Casserole Cook-At-Your-Table dishes really are exotic, but wonderfully flavorful, and their preparation is virtually a show in itself. The BBQ ranges from the common (Skirt Steak or Beef Short Ribs) to the unusual (Marinated Cuttle Fish or Beef Tongue), while the Casseroles all have ingredients (Tripe or Octopus or?) that demand an educated palate and/or an open mind. In fact, Takamatsu has very little for the avid burger and fries connoisseur who might consider the Udon (Japanese Style Noodle Soup) to be on the cutting edge. For the more adventurous and appreciative, the Hot and Spicy Fish Roe Stew, the Sauteed Kimchee with Sliced Pork and Vegetables, and the Buckwheat Noodles with Spicy Raw Fish will have you coming back for more. A hint for the wise (and penny-wise): many of the genuine native dishes are available for lunch in smaller portions at fire-sale prices.
4214 W. Dunlap Ave., Phoenix, 623-842-0400. Fax 623-842-2560.

Royal Thai Grill - LD, $4-$10, Closed Tue., SV

Freeway close to everywhere (eastside, at least), but more-or-less in the boonies, the great food and rock bottom prices are what make this place a viable destination. A super starter is the Duck Soup (most soups serve 3-4). In an ambrosial, broth rich with the taste from tender pieces of duck and a number of herbs and spices, are lovely soft white flat noodles and tiny straw mushrooms. Yen-Ta-Fo, on the other end of the heat spectrum, is a chili hot and puckering sour red soup with a copious amount of clams, shrimp, squid, fish balls, tofu, and a spinach-like green vegetable. Another soup, an old favorite of mine, is Tom Kha Gai. This soup is somehow both assertive and benign at the same time, with a spicy hot kick, a tangy lemongrass sour, the soothing properties of coconut milk, and the elusive woodsy element of galangal. The chicken and mushrooms give it direction and it's charcoal chimney, emanating out of the center hole of the doughnut shaped bowl, keeps it perfectly hot throughout the entire meal. E-Sarn Sausages come cut in hefty chunks of coarsely ground, heavily seasoned meat cooked to a T (in this case, an E). Tod Mun, fried fish cakes with their own dipping sauce, is another winner. Squid fans must try the Yum Pla Muk, a wonderful contrast of cool, snow-white squid against the hot chile in the sauce. Yum Woon-Sen, another salad-type, combines bean threads and other vegetables with ground pork and shrimp, the whole melange having a decidedly lemon-flavored bias. Thai curries are particularly renowned, and Panang Nur is a textbook version. The Cornish Game Hen employs a whole bird that has been sixthed and deep-fried until the skin is beautifully crispy. A rich and fruity dipping sauce is a lovely accent. Thai iced coffee and Thai iced tea are important tools for cooling your jets when the chilies get out of hand, but are great thirst quenchers with the milder dishes, too. Don't be surprised when the check comes. Thinking about all that you have been served, it often looks like they forgot to put something on the bill. They are not open for dinner on Mondays.
321 W. McKellips Road, Suite #103, Mesa, 480.733.9025.

Saigon Nights - LD; ($6.99 - $19.99), Closed Sundays

She's back — my inner Vietnamese woman — and boy was she hungry! We were driving down the 101, when she suddenly took over and exited the freeway. I could feel her start from my tummy. She was on a mission. Soon we were in front of Saigon Nights; a modest family-owned place in North Scottsdale. It was the perfect choice since they have some of the tastiest Vietnamese in North Scottsdale. Well, it's the only Vietnamese in North Scottsdale.
Tearing into the menu, she ordered Edamame ($3.99 — really Japanese but delicious nonetheless). She knows that it's good for her figure as well as her mouth. The young soybean pods are steamed then lightly salted — just put one between your lips and pull. The tender soybeans simply shoot out into your mouth. The taste is salty and the texture creamy — you can't go wrong with this healthful treat. Keeping with the lighter side, she ordered the Grilled Pork & Egg Roll Vermicelli Noodles ($7.99). This is more of a salad with an ample portion of rice noodles with lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber and cilantro, topped with crushed peanuts and grilled pork chop. Served alongside is a bowl of prepared fish sauce, which is sweet and salty but not fishy. This combination not only satisfies her hunger, but also understandably calms her down.
She rests now, her cravings eased for the time being but for how long? Nobody knows.
15111 N Hayden Rd, Suite 110, Scottsdale. Phone: (480) 609-1116. Internet: www.saigonnites.com.

Sun Valley Bakery - LD, $4-$7, SV

This austerely adorned shop is part bakery, part restaurant. Service is semi-self, and, although there is an unquestionable language barrier, the small staff is always trying hard to please. If you can point, however, you can get a great meal here even if English is your only language. All the foods are displayed on steam tables, and it seems you can get combinations of about four to seven items with rice and a soft drink for way under 10 dollars. Indulge! Enjoy!
4141 N. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-352-6600.

Thai Corner - LD, $5-$8

The only thing far out about this place is the location. And, I'm sure, people who live nearby are happy to have good, solid Thai food at incredibly low prices. In fact, they're so reasonable, you could spend some extra on gas just to get here, and still have a good bargain. We liked the Tom Kha Gai, Larb, Basil Beef, Shrimp Curry, Pad Woon Sen and Thai Baked Chicken, but everything on Rangsan and Lucky Srisuk's menu is prepared with that same caring hand. Lunch is not served on Saturdays.
5253 E. Brown Road, Suite #104 (Alta Mesa Plaza), Mesa, 480-969-0087.

Thai Elephant - L(early)D $7-$15

A super new addition to the spotty downtown dining scene, this Thai eatery is even open for dinner, though they do close at a rather early 9 p.m. Great starters include Crispy Sweet Potato, Thai Fish Cake, Pork Salad and a unique Shrimp in the Blanket (or try the four item Combination for $8.95). Soup is practically a must at Thai restaurants, especially the spicy Tom Yum or the creamy Tom Kha, with your choice of a) Chicken, Pork, Beef or Tofu, b) Shrimp, Calamari, Sole Fish or Salmon, or c) Seafood. The level determines the price, with the soup ranging from $8.95 to $13.95 (a to c), and most other dishes from $9.95 to $14.95 respectively. Whatever the main ingredient, they seem to be quite liberal with its content. Delicious Stir-Fries are offered, like Heaven Ginger, Spicy Eggplant, Elephant Garlic and Siamese Basil; Curries come in Green, Red and Yellow, as well as a tantalizing Jungle Curry and a hot and sweet Pineapple Shrimp Curry with tomato and coconut milk. There's a small section from the grill encompassing Thai BBQ Chicken, Siam Pork Chop and Grilled Garlic Seafood, and a more comprehensive listing of Noodle (and Rice) dishes. Here you will find such goodies as Drunken Noodle, Chicken Noodle (wide pasta with turnips, eggs, and other things in a soy garlic sauce), Glass Noodle and the ever-popular Pad Thai. Order one or two notches below your usual heat level, as they really aren't kidding here, but if you go overboard, the Thai Black Sweet Sticky Rice with Pumpkin Custard will cool the fires. This is not everyone's cup of tea (by the way, their Thai Iced Tea is good and cooling too), taste wise, but it does the job and is authentic. Fried Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream might be more to your liking, however.
20 W. Adams St., Phoenix, 602-252-3873. Fax 602-252-3901.

Thai Lahna - LD, $5-$9, closed Sundays

Some like it hot (I do!) and some just like it. Whatever your preference, you don't have to worry here. If you say very hot, it comes out searing — but if you say mild, it's barely a tingle on the tongue. Tom has been in the kitchen long enough not to disappoint anyone. Appetizers run the range from the pedestrian (but tasty) Satay of beef or chicken; to a refreshing Thai sausage on lettuce with cucumber, tomatoes and red onions, tied together with a special lime dressing; to a fascinating dish of ground fish with Thai curry and chopped green beans. Soups (which could be a meal in themselves) are mostly pepper hot and lemon grass sour, with the likes of shrimp, chicken or seafood, mushrooms, coconut milk and exotic herbs and spices. There are actually only four curries: Green, Yellow, Panang (Dried) and Red; as well as only four noodle dishes; however, the Vegetarian Entrees listing is not only very substantial, but also intriguingly varied and imaginative. When I'm in a carnivorative mood, I often get the Cashew Duck, Seafood in a Clay Pot (with ginger and silver-noodles), or Pla Rahd Phik Sohd, a whole crispy fried fish (order in advance, if possible) in homemade chili sauce with onions, mushrooms, chili and mint.
3738 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix. 602-955-4658.

Thai Rama - LD, $5-$10

Just a few extra feet from the newly widened Camelback Road saved this cute little restaurant from relocation. Although the ownership has recently changed, they still put out a nice variety of traditional dishes of a cuisine that is becoming increasingly popular with the inquisitive diner. For appetizers we suggest Tohd Mahn and Yahm Guhn Chiang (fish patties and Thai sausage), followed by Tohm Yahm Goong or Gai Tohm Khah (hot and sour shrimp soup or chicken soup with galanga and coconut milk). For the main event, try the Cashews Duck, Paht Ped Pra-Duk (catfish with chilies and veggies), Paht Thai (stir-fried sweet noodle with chicken and shrimp) or any of the curries (red, green, yellow or panang (dried). End your delightful meal with Sang Khayah, Thai Egg Custard made with coconut and topped with pumpkin and a Thai Iced Coffee (but only one, this stuff is strong!). Lunch is not served on Sundays.
1221 W. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-285-1123.

Thao's Sandwiches Oriental Food - LD, $2-$6+, closed Sun.

This clean and neat storefront serves particularly well prepared food, including lots of full meal soups with rice or noodles and a variety of meats and seafoods. Their Vietnamese Crepe with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts served with lemon fish sauce is the best I've had in town, and the Mi Quang (rice crackers, pork slivers, spring onion, peanuts, bean sprouts, shrimp, mortadella, stripped morning glory, saw-tooth herb, minced pork balls and white noodles in a zesty chicken stock), quite the oddity, is delicious as well. Best of all, though, they have a half-dozen sandwiches of Vietnamese cold cuts made on crusty French rolls, including sardine, roller side pork and a special combination, each at $2.50 or less.
6025 N. 27th Ave., Phoenix; 602-841-5841.

Tottie's Asian Fusion - LD Tuesday-Sunday; $7-$12

"Cook with love, cook like you mean it." These are wise words coming from local chef and restaurateur Tottie Kaya. At Tottie's Asian Fusion 2, she cooks some of the best Asian food in town.
Kaya's second outlet is at Lincoln Village near the intersection of Scottsdale Road and Lincoln Drive.
It's an Asian tour menu, featuring items from Thailand, Vietnam and China. High-quality ingredients are sourced through local purveyors, including trips to LeeLee Asian Market for fresh Thai basil and other essential herbs.
Kaya's mastery of balance and presentation is apparent in the Sizzling Rice Soup ($7.95). Hot toasted rice is combined with a large serving of stock, including vegetables and shrimp, creating a loud sizzle that will turn the heads of fellow diners. The flavors are mild and delightful, but the key to pure enjoyment is the contrast in textures.
Salad lovers will enjoy the bright and sweet Mango Shrimp Salad ($11.50). It's piled with large tender crustaceans and sliced mango seasoned with ginger, mint and lemon.
Noodle addicts can rejoice with the chewy chow fun laden Pad Kee Mao, with the choice of chicken ($9.95), beef ($10.50) and shrimp ($11.95). Diners can indicate the desired level of heat from mild to spicy. Sauteed vegetables add crunch and cool.
To go all out, order Tottie's Pan Fried Noodles ($11.95). A massive pile of egg noodles are fried crispy on the outside, tender on the inside and covered with veggies, beef, chicken and shrimp.
There are also Chinamerican dishes offered for those seeking comfort classics, such as General Tao's Chicken ($9.95), Kung Pao Beef ($10.50) and Shrimp with Garlic Sauce ($11.95).
7901 E. Thomas Road, Scotts-dale, 480-970-0633, and 6204 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-998-8220; www.tottiesasianfusion.com.

Wahsun: To Rose With Love - L,D $4.95 - $138.00 , 11am - 10pm Friday - Wednesday Closed Thursday

Dear Rose,
I have to be perfectly frank with you. While you are sweet, kind and fun to hang around with while my food is being cooked, I have to admit that I think I am in love with your husband.
I know, I know, I've never even seen his face before, but I have heard him, sensually barking out to you in Chinese, wishing it was at me he barked. Most importantly, I hear and smell the music he makes with his wok! The sweet clang and clatter with fire blazing from underneath. Your husband is a man of talent.
When I'm feeling down he knows exactly what to make to help me to feel better. Crab with onion and ginger sauce as part of the No. 1 special ($24.95) is something of a long passionate kiss. The accompanied green beans in XO Sauce feel like he is giving me a massage from inside. Then top me off with a 1/2 roast duck and steamed rice, oh the joy and bliss he brings me!
Then there is his Dry Fried Rice Noodle with Beef ($6.95), which are by far some of the best noodles I've ever had. The way his wok makes sweet love to the noodles, kissing them all over with a faint smoky char. Those kisses taste so delicious, I have to order them every time.
Subgun Tofu ($6.95) is a lesson on his more subtle approach with flavors and textures. The delicate flavor of the tofu and the lightness of the fresh vegetables work so well with the perfectly steamed rice. He truly is a master with his wok.
So Rose, please understand when I write these things to you, I understand he is yours , and I will never come between the two of you, I just felt that you should know this, I would gladly fetch his slippers.
8056 N. 19th Ave. | Phoenix, AZ 85021 | 602.995.4606

Wong's - LD, $5-$8, Closed Sun.

A little hole-in-the-wall cafe in the middle of an industrial area, this Chinese restaurant is like a transplanted dinosaur from the '60s. Most of the dishes here are good, but not fancy, with the usual selection of beef, pork, chicken, shrimp, and vegetable varieties of old favorites. Everything tastes fresh (it is rumored that some of the veggies are from the family garden), but the crispy House Special Chicken and Shrimp with String Beans both go over the top. Servers come "family style."
1139 E. Buckeye Road, Phoenix, 602-252-2791.

Wong's Place - LD, $6-$11

Saying this is the best Chinese restaurant in Tempe isn't saying a whole lot. Personally, I would say it's one of the most underrated in the Valley. Sure, they have all the usual dishes, but why not be adventurous and order from their posted daily specials or the Chinese menu. Seafood Chow Fun, Pork Short Ribs Sizzling Plate, or Eight Delight in a Hot Pot are good starters. More advanced Sinophyles would do well with Eggplant in Preserved Red Tofu Sauce or Salty Fish with Chicken Fried Rice. Mmmm!
1825 E. Baseline Road, #2, Tempe, 480-838-8988.

Zang Asian Bistro - LD, $7-$15+, closed Mon.

In an oasis of tranquility in the heart of historic downtown Glendale, this fine eatery puts out quality dishes from China, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore and, what do you know, even an American invention, Chop Sooee (Suey). The atmosphere is warm from the extensive use of wood, the fixtures are quite contemporary (check out the sink in the men's room — and probably the ladies' room, too), and the walls are lined with colorful original artworks picked out and imported back from China in the owner's suitcase (the framing being done locally). Even though the same dish at one of the specialty restaurants might be a smidge more refined, here you can do a smorgasbord of eastern countries' cuisines all at the same time without ever having to change tables. Our meal started out with Chicken Lettuce Wraps (China), then a complimentary (we found a coupon somewhere) order of very crisp Egg Rolls with three dipping sauces (China), followed by yummy Tom Yam Seafood Soup (Thailand). My dining partner got a huge plate of lightly battered Chicken in Apricot Sauce (Vietnam), while I dined on a somewhat sweet and pungent King Tau Pork (Japan). I don't know how, but by some means we managed to make room for a Deep Fried Cheesecake drizzled with chocolate sauce (country of origin unknown). So our Asian tour, first class all the way, took a little more than an hour and we saved thousands upon thousands in airfare. What a deal!
6835 N. 58th Drive, Glendale; 623-847-8888.