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Without Reservations - Previous Reviews - American A-M

Previously reviewed restaurants - American and Caribbean A-M

KEY: B = breakfast L = lunch D = dinner N = late night SV = special value Prices ranges shown are for a single entree

American and Caribbean (including regional)

Alice Cooper'stown - LD, $7-$15+
In the (very early morning) shadow of Chase Ballpark, this multileveled-converted warehouse can really swing when there's a game in one of the neighboring venues. A giant wall of monitors brings sports just shy of an I-Max equivalent. The decor is funky and freewheeling, with images and articles of Alice omnipresent. Surprisingly, for a joint like this, the food is pretty darned good, especially the barbecue. In fact, they serve a BBQ Feast fit for a king and at least two queens. They claim the under $30 ensemble feeds two, but I think they must be linebackers. We have stretched it to four, and no one went away from the table the least bit hungry. After all, it includes St. Louis pork ribs, pulled pork, hot links, half a barbecued chicken, smoked turkey and beef brisket. Of course, man cannot live on meat alone, so they also include hefty portions of crispy fries, coleslaw, garlic-mashed potatoes and baked beans. Anyone not completely stuffed can get Chef Saul's Dessert Taco, stuffed with sliced bananas and cheesecake, then lightly fried and topped with rich cinnamon ice cream and gooey caramel sauce. Other neat scenarios include a huge tangle of Shep's Onion Strings, the spicy Chicken and Sausage Gumbo (hidden on the menu under Fields of Greens), The Big Unit Hot Dog, (two feet of one hundred percent beef) or Mom's Tuna Casserole topped with baked potato chips and Parmesan cheese. Next time, before or after the game, play with Alice.
101 E. Jackson St., Phoenix, 602-253-7337.
Arcadia Farms at the Heard - BL, $4-$7
On the Heard Museum grounds, this small cafe serves sandwich and salad lunches with a light southwestern twist, both indoors and in the lovely courtyard amid native flora and a splashing fountain. Nice and light (but not skimpy) is the Strawberry Chicken Salad where grilled breast meet meets orchard, aided and abetted by toasted almonds, on a crisp heap of baby mixed lettuces with a homemade poppy seed dressing. The Pesto Grilled Shrimp Salad has marinated crustaceans with creamy diced avocado, baby tomatoes and tangy white California goat cheese tossed in a unique grilled corn citrus vinaigrette, crowned with frizzled tortillas. For a nice variety, try the Chop Chop Vegetable Salad based on shredded Romaine and dancing with roasted corn and carrots, sliced mushrooms, grilled zucchini, kalamata olives, blue cheese, peanuts and raisins, all under the influence of a delightful creamy vinaigrette. Then there's my favorite, the Raspberry Goat Cheese, featuring pistachio crusted Sonoma goat cheese, sweet-tart berries and candied pecans. Sandwiches, which come with a fine mixed organic greens or a red potato salad, are highlighted by one of fresh mozzarella, red ripe tomatoes and fragrant basil leaves (further enhanced by a pesto vinaigrette) on delicious ciabatta bread. Perfect for two hands is a country smoked ham with Havarti and a splash of red onion chutney on a rustic roll slathered with whole grain mustard as well as one of Albacore with roasted pecans, jicama and green onions, jazzed up with pea shoots, purple cabbage and cucumbers, on sunflower wheat bread. Had enough of organic? Try the rich desserts — they're orgasmic. //2301 N. Central Ave. (at the Heard Museum), Phoenix, 602-251-0204.
Artichoke Grill - T-F: L, W-F: D, $4-$6
You don't have to be a rocket scientist — or any kind of scientist — to enjoy the surprisingly well conceived and prepared lunches here. You do, however, have to find the Applied Science building, on the east side of Scottsdale Community College's campus, to be able to partake of this fabulous bargain. Additionally, you must call to make a reservation, as seating is limited and food is only served between 11:30am and 1pm. The students do all the prep and cooking, serving and bussing, and even greet you at the door and graciously lead you to your table. A shared reception area separates the lunch-only Artichoke Grill from her sister, the Desert Oasis, a dinner-only room. The Grill's soft colors are food inspired: cantaloupe, watermelon, and pink grapefruit. Vibrant hued paintings, also done by SCC students (and priced for sale), adorn the walls. The menu rotates on a weekly basis, so the meals we had will most probably not be available when you go, but they will give you an idea as to the scope of the offerings. And, you'll be amazed at the reasonable prices, allowing multi-course meals to frugally be amassed. We sampled a fine Warm Lamb Salad, a Cold Strawberry Bisque and a Duck Consomme, with its pasta pouch of dark meat with Oriental seasonings. Even the breadbasket contained treasures of Cranberry Scones and Sesame Crowned Whole Wheat Buns. Delicious sandwiches include a thin-sliced Roast Beef with Bleu Cheese and Red Pepper Oil and a Spiced Roast Pork with Port Wine Jus and Apple Cinnamon Chutney. Entrees feature the likes of Charred Escalope of Salmon with Confit of Mushrooms; Seafood Cakes with Caper Sauce, Braised Leeks and Tomato Salsa; and Honey Roasted Chicken with Sage and Pecans over a sea of Braised Red Cabbage. For dessert, their Boston Cream Pie was one of the best I've had in recent history, while the Raspberry Phyllo Pouch hiding a center of intense Raspberry Mouse, Nuts, and heavenly White Chocolate compares favorably with high price contenders at neighboring upper-scale eateries.
9000 E. Chaparral Rd. (Scottsdale Community College), Scottsdale, 480-423-6284. Fax 480-423-6091.
AZ 88 - LD, $8-$15, SV
This Scottsdale Mall restaurant and bar, with its strategic location and eclectic decor, is one of the hottest places to see and be seen in Scottsdale. Leading the fire brigade on the menu are the bleu cheese mitigated Hell's Fire Fries, Elsa's Chicken with pecans and honey mustard sauce, and Hot Pepper Chicken augmented with jalapeño peppers and marinated in lime juice and honey. AZ 88 can also be cool as a cucumber, as evidenced by the Picnic Chicken, featuring a cold sliced breast matched with sliced pears, Gorgonzola cheese, pecan halves and Romaine spears on marbled pumpernickel, served with a flotilla of fresh fruits. Fancy a grilled cheese sandwich with thick-sliced bacon and tomato made much fancier with the presence of American, Cheddar, Colby and Swiss cheeses. There is a great Grilled Vegetables plate, a fat and juicy burger (try au Poivre, with peppercorns and sauteed in burgundy sauce), a seared, rare Tuna Niçoise plate (just like the salad without the lettuce) and St. Petersburg Potatoes (waffle fries crowned with sour cream, cream cheese, radish, onion, cucumber, and Scottish smoked salmon). Salads are fresh, crisp, and generous. How generous are they? Well, the "dinette sized" Chopped Salad is enough to feed the average person as a main dish! (The regular size must have a hard time fitting on the table.) And with the calories saved, the Turtle Cheesecake with huge pecans, real butterscotch and thick, hot fudge could just sneak in under the daily allotment. Toast to your good fortune for finding this place with everything from a perfect martini to a New York Egg Cream. Unfortunately, lunches are not served on weekends.
7353 Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale, 480-994-5576.
Bandera - D, $7-$15+
At and above the upper range of our price scale — and worth every penny of it — this place is so good I had to include it. Unfortunately, it's not just our little secret, so the wait is often more than an hour, and you can't even make a reservation! Regulars wile away the time at the horseshoe-shaped bar, eating anything from an Iron-Skillet full of roasted corn Corn Bread to the "Macho" Salad, a unique combination of roasted chicken, dates, avocado and tomatoes with Romaine, arugula and corn bread croutons, topped with goat cheese for a sweet, tart, tangy and crunchy taste sensation. The menu includes meaty and tender BBQ Beef Back Ribs, slathered with a beautifully balanced barbecue sauce, and paired with Roasted Peanut Coleslaw. The house specials are a carefully crafted, juicy Wood Fired Spit Roasted Chicken and the Sliced Leg of Lamb, actually thinly sliced into many pieces after being marinated and rotisserie roasted for hours on end. The Wild Mushroom Meatloaf, alas, is ancient history — except as an occasional special; however, the kitchen's innovative Famous Mashed Potatoes, which come with the rotisseried and beef items, are still beyond comparison. Carnivore alternatives include a Chicken Enchilada Platter with "Green" Rice and Escabeche, The Vegetable Platter (which now includes a Grilled Artichoke), and Seattle Style BBQ Salmon. The quintessential preparation of a much abused fish, the Sterling filet is marinated in soy sauce, garlic, and turbinato sugar to enhance — not obscure — its delicate flavor. Of the three desserts listed, I can vouch that the housemade concoction of creamy vanilla ice cream with Oreo chips sandwiched between two homemade Oreo crusts, swimming in a sea of bittersweet fudge syrup and crowned with a super-duper sized dollop of freshly made whipped cream, is spectacular!
3821 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-994-3524.
The Barbecue Company's Grill & Cafe - L, $5-$7, Closed Sat. & Sun.
When I first read the address of this place I thought there was a typo. Maybe it's North 36th St., or 36th Ave., or something. Nope! Have faith and ye shall be rewarded. However, although the two rooms hold lots of hungry folks, you still might have to wait a while to receive it. This may be the south side's best kept secret from the Yankees to the north; nevertheless, every local doing business within miles must eat here regularly. There were collars of all colors: White, blue, none ... and even lavender. Lot's of them come for the succulent barbecued ribs, chicken, turkey, brisket, and pulled pork, but some of the other worthwhile dishes might surprise you. To begin with, this kitchen puts out a rockin' Tortilla Chicken Chowder. Add cilantro and ancho to the Caesar dressing, and you now have their terrific Southwest Caesar Salad. The Salsalita Chicken sandwich has the bird marinating in salsa fresca, olive oil, cilantro, garlic and their own Roarin' Sonoran Southwest Seasoning, then grilled and topped with pico de gallo. The Smoked Pepper Ham contains its namesake that has been glazed with brown sugar, maple syrup, southern style molasses, and cinnamon. For vegetarians (and others) there is a sandwich of grilled zucchini, yellow squash, peppers and purple onions, sprinkled with Balsamic vinaigrette with cilantro and garlic and topped with melted smoked Gouda. The Kentucky Bleu Cheese Slaw is novel — you decide if it works for you. And don't pass up desserts, either, especially if it's homemade the flan.
4636 S. 36th St., Phoenix, 602-243-3771. Fax 602-243-9043.
Basis — LD $6-$20+;
The menu changes seasonally, but you know anything you have here is going to be fabulous. Some of our favorites are Stuffed Chicken Wings, Lobster and Roasted Corn Tamale, Wonton (Short Rib) Tacos, Green Chile fettuccini, Cashew Encrusted Hawaiian Ono and Maple Glazed Pork Tenderloin. Be absolutely certain to save room for either (or both) the Baked Chocolate Mousse Gateau Accompanied by Grand Marnier Sabayon or the Hazelnut Cheesecake with Frangelico Crème Anglaise. Sunday Brunch is awesome (and most reasonable, too), but dinner is not served on Sundays.
410 E. Thunderbird Road; 602-843-3689.
Big City BBQ - LD, $4.50-$12+, closed Sun.
If you like barbecue, soul food, or just friendly people serving generous portions of delicious, reasonably priced food, you're gonna love this place. The delightful nuance of pecan smoke permeates all the tender meats, and the sauce is more sassy than hot (Tabasco is available for those who crave it). The hefty pork spareribs are loaded with tender, almost fall-off-the-bone meat, and the honey-rubbed ham is something else! The Louisiana red-hot links are full of flavor, but do need a touch of the red stuff to suit me. Bargains abound, with two-hand sandwiches starting at a mere $4.49, Catfish Po'Boys $5.49, or an order of Rib Tips just four bits more. One Meat Dinners are plenty for the average person, coming with two sides and a big square of crumbly corn bread. All the sides we sampled were terrific, especially the Fried Okra, Brown Sugar Baked Beans, Southern Mixed Greens and Candied Yams. I dare anyone to finish the Three Meat Dinners. If Fried Chicken or Pork Chops isn't fattening enough for you, they serve both of those smothered as well. Those dinners also come with two sides and cornbread. Pile on the carbs with Rice and Gravy and Mac'-n-Cheese if you will, but be sure to save room for Pecan Pie (or Peach Cobbler or Sweet Potato Pie, they're all sensational).
5118 S. Rural Road (NW corner at Baseline), Tempe, 480-756-5702. Fax 480-756-5703. www.bigcitybbq.com.
Black Bear Diner - (early)BLD, $5-$14, SV
You bearly get out of your car and walk up toward the entrance and whammo — you come upon the first of enumerable bears at this California import, which packs 'em in by the droves. What's the big lure? Lots of well-prepared comfort food at very reasonable prices in thematically decorated but relaxed surroundings served by an enthusiastic young waitstaff, and bears, bears and more bears. If you have a wait, there is an interesting (bear themed) gift store to examine and while away the time, and a handsome mural (with bears, of course!) to admire while dining. Breakfasts begin at 6am, and include all the usuals plus a whole section of Black Bear Scrambles. We like Joe Bear's seasoned ground beef, fresh spinach, onions and sausage, served over country red diced potatoes and covered with cheese. The lady bear might munch on Fruit Cakes, a trio of cakes (or, for $1 more, 7-grain almond granola pancakes) loaded with blackberries, strawberries or blueberries, sprinkled with powdered sugar and topped with whipped cream. And the big bear will surely appreciate the Bigfoot: a chicken-fried steak smothered with fresh country gravy, three eggs, a mound of hash browns and a pair of homemade biscuits. At lunchtime try a Bacon Bleu Burger, a Broiled Chicken and Avocado Club Sandwich or a Grilled Southwestern Steak Salad with Ancho-Cilantro Ranch Dressing. After sundown some of the best bets include the awesome Mikey's Chicken Pot Pie, Grilled Fresh Dill Wild Salmon (what bear wouldn't love that?), Stuffed Breasts of Chicken (with Broccoli and Jack Cheese, covered in Hollandaise) or the Cluck & Buck (a combo of Rosemary Chicken and Santa Maria Style Tri-Tip). Dinners come with two sides, one of which should be their absolutely yummy Linguica Baked Beans. (Actually, everything on the entire menu is served from opening to closing.) Young folks over sixty (and there are lots of them here) get slightly smaller meals at reduced prices on the many Senior items listed on the menu. If you love bears — or just what they eat — this is the place for you.
6039 West Bell Road, Glendale, 602-843-1921. www.blackbeardiner.com.
Bobby C's - D $7-$13
Say you're downtown, it's 1am on a weekend, and you're hungry as heck. What to do? Head to Bobby C's. This neighborhood bar has a kitchen (and a staff) with soul. Start with big, juicy, golden brown Fried Wings or the Catfish Nuggets. Like 'em spicy? Get the Buffalo Wings or the Buffalo Shrimp. For the main dish, there's Fried Chicken, Chicken Fried Chicken and Baked Chicken, as well as Chicken Fried Steak. Pork Chops come grilled or smothered, and there's Hot Links and Meat Loaf. Barbecued Pork Ribs are special to Wednesdays only, and Sundays feature is Gumbo. Sides of Greens, Yams, Black Eyed Peas, Dirty Rice and Mac & Cheese will keep you coming back for more. If they haven't run out, be sure to try their homemade Peach Cobbler.
1140 E. Washington St., Phoenix, 602-252-2273.
BoEATos - L, $4-$7, SV
It's a wrap, and a mighty good one. That's the specialty here, in this restaurant/bar just south of Changing Hands bookstore. The wrappers of Wheat, Tomato Basil, Flour, and jalapeño Cilantro do more than provide a container. They actually add a lot of taste to the concoctions, which run the gamut from Oriental to regional American to European to Mexican in general content. Black Beans and/or Guacamole make good sidekicks. Burgers, Sandwiches and Salads placate those with less adventurous tastes. Dinners are not served Monday thru Wednesday.
6430 S. McClintock, Tempe, 480-838-6300. Fax 480-838-6333.
BreadCrafters Bakery & Café - BL(early)D, $5-$7
If bread is the very foundation of the sandwich, it is important for the bread's quality to be as good as possible. Having a bakery on the premises is a major coup to any serious sandwich making-institution. That way the Focaccia Provencale can arrive on a fresh herb foccacia and the Prima Italian can boast of being contained by a real ciabatta. What would a Park Avenue be without raisin walnut (or pecan bread)? A Bavarian or Garden Run would be flat without a multi-grain Alsatian. Although you can make up your own, all the combos seem to have a little local twist. Take the Tuna Piquant. Instead of just Charlie-and-mayo, this one has capers and fresh herbs, bound with a lemony dressing, and sits pretty on tomatoes and field greens atop freshly baked green olive bread. Add a soup of the day and an array of sensational salads and you have the perfect place to placate those midday hunger pangs. Watch out for even earlier closings on weekends.
12635 N. Tatum Blvd., Phoenix, 602-494-4442. Fax 602-494-4646.
Breadfruit Jamaican Grill - L&D; ($6.50-13.50), Mon–Sat (closed between 2-5 p.m. weekdays and on Sundays)
This Jamaican Grill near First Street and Pierce in downtown Phoenix has a comfortable, unpretentious air to it — almost like it's already channeling the future ghosts of an open and accepting business and college crowd.
This south of the gulf experience is actually a great mix of meat, seafood and vegan dishes. And to top it all off, their philosophy is that good food should be good to eat, so almost everything on the menu is also great for those watching their girlish figures.
While there is no obvious appetizer section to the menu, there are a few items in the Baked Delights section that could do very well individually, or in small numbers. The spicy Beef Patties and Chicken Curry Patties ($2 each) are very appetizing. The only salad ($6.50) is a simple, yet refreshing blend of Romaine, tomato, scallions and red and green bell peppers. It's lightly tossed in a ginger poppy vinaigrette and can be eaten as is or topped with Tofu, Chicken or Shrimp (for an up-charge, of course).
The most exciting and exotic part of the menu is, of course, the entrees. Titled "Tastes of my Island," the section has an almost exotic and kind of sexy feel, especially if you say it with a Rastafarian accent. The Jerk Chicken ($9.50) and Shrimp ($13.50) are rather tame looking on the plate, but really jump to life once inside your mouth, which I found was the case with much of the food at Breadfruit.
108 E. Pierce, Phoenix. Phone: 602-267-1266. Web: www.thebreadfruit.com.
Breakfast Club - BL, $6-10+
Some people have breakfast for lunch, some have lunch for breakfast, and some pass up breakfast altogether, making lunch their first meal of the day. For all the above, the Breakfast Club is just perfect. For those who skip both breakfast and lunch, scratch this eatery from your list, for it closes at 3 p.m. every day.
Just remember, you scratchers, that you'll be missing some of the best good morning victuals you've ever wrapped your lips around. Eye openers like their Bar Harbour Flapjacks — three enormous fluffy golden pancakes studded with ambrosial wild blueberries, dusted with confectioners sugar, sitting under a thick and gooey coulis, containing practically another pint basketful of those fat, juicy berries. You could have gone mad over their Wild Mushroom Omelette, practically bursting at the seams with its trove of sautéed beauties. But, no, you don't eat breakfast. Too bad — this could be your best meal of the day.
Most egg dishes come with a chunky fresh fruit potpourri and habit-forming potatoes O'Brien, nicely done up with onions and peppers. If you like a light, eggy and tart Hollandaise (and who doesn't?), the chef here is right on. With thick slices of slightly sweet Virginia ham separating this elixir from its English muffin bases, this classic is consistently recreated with aplomb.
Using light-textured Challah gives extra flavor to the cinnamon French toast, a trio of thick slices to each order, covered in candied almonds and a variety of berries, served with real maple syrup (from Vermont), sweet butter and a dusting of powdered sugar.
BC's B&G varies from the common biscuits and gravy in that this chef puts green chile in his leavened pucks, then tops them with eggs and nutty fontina cheese before pouring on the sausage-dappled mantle hiding all from view (but certainly not from taste). This gravy has flavor, and lots of it — totally foreign to the bland, pasty stuff served elsewhere.
The lunch menu is very simple: a quartet of salads, and another of sandwiches. Yet the eight choices seem to cover most of the bases pretty well. A hefty scoop of plain old tuna is dressed to the "Ts" when bedded with crisp baby field greens amply topped with a rainbow of berries, candied walnuts and tangy snow white goat cheese, all tied together with a delightful raspberry walnut vinaigrette.
Most everyone loves a BLT sandwich, but the Breakfast Club takes this old favorite one notch higher by adding a "C" for cheese — a lovely fontina. The bacon is that terrific apple smoked bacon, the tomatoes are primo, and with some crisp leaves of romaine to add crunchiness, the whole thing comes together splendidly on grilled sourdough bread, smeared with just the right amount of eggy mayo.
The lunch menu disappears on weekends, when only breakfasts are served. The Club opens at 6 a.m. weekdays (7:30 a.m. weekends), so you can stop and break your fast before going to the office or a day of detention. Don't mess with the bull or you'll get the horns. 
4400 N. Scottsdale Road, No. 100 (Northwest Corner of Scottsdale and Stetson) 480-222-CLUB (2582)
Cabela's Cactus Flats Café - LD $4-$8
Yesterday's cotton fields are now yielding far more handsome profits from the explosive growth of the Cardinal's sleek stadium and the surrounding new retail establishments springing up like weeds after a summer's storm. Not the least of these is an enormous freestanding 160,000 square foot monument to everything hunting and fishing called Cabela's, the 16th of a national chain, the first in the Valley. Modestly billed by its corporate as the "World's Foremost Outfitter," it is predicted that over three million visitors will pass through its doors within the first year, scoping out their tents, boats, firearms, clothing, home furnishings and the like. There's also a general store, a laser shooting gallery, a museum, a walk-through aquarium and over 400 stuffed animals ranging in size from a mouse to an elephant, most of which reside on three-story Conservation Mountain. Near the top, overlooking many of these mounted trophies, is a café that serves sandwiches and bratwursts made from the meat of their brethren. Yes, you can get Elk, Wild Boar and Bison (as well as Ostrich, which we did not note as a resident of this well-populated mountain) Sandwiches and juicy Bratwursts made flavorful from their Venison or Bison stuffings. They also have two terrific Chilies (the Chicken was one of the best I've ever had) and an enormous slab of tender Prime Rib (as a Sandwich) for $6.99! Those with plebian tastes have hot dogs and the usual sammies to satiate their hunger. The desserts are almost ugly, but we shared a downright yummy Chocolate Cake coated with a soft marshmallow frosting layered with cherries. With prices this low, you might think of this restaurant in the most charitable of terms. Don't worry, they make up for it elsewhere in the store.
9380 W. Glendale Ave.; 623-872-6700.
Café Forté - New American Comfort Food - LD; $8.50-24, Monday-Saturday (lunch) 11 a.m.-3 p.m., Wednesday-Saturday (dinner) 4-9 p.m.
At Café Forté, I would call what they are doing classic, new American comfort food. Located in the Old Town Scottsdale arts district, Café Forté makes for a wonderful stop for lunch or dinner, while taking in some of the art galleries.
Opened in 1996, Café Forté is a smallish, intimate venue with low-level lighting, white linen tablecloths and a candle on each table. The Café Forté menu at lunchtime is huge, promising something for everyone, with all the bases covered from soups and sandwiches to salads, burgers and pasta. Offering free delivery and take out as well, a run to McDonald's now sounds even unhealthier.
The Warm Café Cuban Sandwich ($11) sounds like the perfect lunchtime companion with roasted pork loin, black forest ham, Swiss cheese, dill pickle and chipotle mayonnaise on a ciabatta roll. Try getting a Lamb Burger ($10), complete with creamy feta cheese, at your local fast food joint. Save the urge for a glass of wine for a Saturday lunch or come one evening for dinner.
For dinner, Café Forté is very well priced, and diners will be happy to see, that with the exception of the Gorgonzola Crusted Certified Sirloin Steak ($24), all entrees are under $20. The dinner menu, while much smaller than lunch, is another diverse place, ranging from chicken, beef and fish to pasta and salads.
Café Meatloaf ($16), their signature dish, starts with lean ground beef, seasoned and well-baked and finished with caramelized onions and a burgundy wine sauce. The only thing missing is mom asking if you want seconds.
7032 E Main St., Scottsdale. Phone: (480) 994-1331. Information: www.cafeforte.com/.
Cajun Seafood Corner - LD, $6-$8
Part bar, part restaurant, this new New Orleans outpost boasts handmade foods and friendly servers, all at prices you thought went out of style decades ago. With enough nautical touches to keep the atmosphere warm and woody, you're bound to like this comfortable venue for many reasons. Start with a bowl of Gumbo or a plate of Blazin' Shrimps Ceviche, unless you prefer their spicy imported Andouille Sausage. For the real aficionados, Crawfish and Head-on Shrimp (Original, Garlic Butter or Lemon Pepper) are available by the pound. For the nostalgic, Crawfish Etouffee and Mind Blowin' Jambalaya will hit the spot, and the Oyster Po' Boy was one of the best I've had in years. The Red Potatoes and Corn on the Cob are must-do sides, and (a new one on me) Banana Froster (sic) Bites will more than satisfy your sweet tooth for dessert. Beignets and Coffee (batter and beans imported from Cafe du Monde) are worth the small wait.
2051 S. Dobson Road, Mesa; 480-491-1680.
Caribbean Fusion - LD; ($7-17), open seven days a week.
Beginning his career as a chef in his home country of Jamaica, Damian Muir has spent the last 15 years cooking. Most recently, he rounded out his experience in the states as sous chef at the Chaparral in the J.W. Marriot Camelback Inn. His menu at Caribbean Fusion is a mix of his Jamaican heritage, French styles, and hints of Indian and Italian cuisine.
On Wednesdays, a large buffet occupies several tables to the right of the bar in the other half of the restaurant. About eight or 10 large chafing dishes sit, lidded, in that familiar buffet-style array. But what was under those polished silver lids was far different than anything you'll find in most buffets, especially those at this price point ($15).
The first dish was a delicate, rich seafood style stew replete with large scallops, shrimp, mussels and zucchini in a delicious cream sauce. The size and amount of seafood was surprising. You almost had to search for the vegetables. And everything was tender and flavorful. None of the seafood was overcooked or overpowering, which is often a hazard of cooking stew with so many different types of seafood.
The next dish was an exciting Escovitch Fish. Served in the traditional style, this red snapper is very lightly breaded and served with onions, peppers and carrots and a spicy (but not too spicy) Escovitch sauce.
Moving from the sea inland, the next round of lids held three of the menu's regular entrees — the Curry Goat, the Jerk Chicken and the BBQ Pork Ribs. All three dishes were extremely tender (no need for a knife at all) and very flavorful in their respective spices and sauces. The Curry Goat contained small chunks of dark meat cooked on the bone.
The next table over held an array of side items and salads, including garlicky fried new potato logs, flavorful and slightly spicy rice and peas and a soft medley of grilled veggies.
I was excited to go back and try the rest of the menu, like the Truffle Shrimp Scampi or the Braised Ox Tail Medallions. And one of these times, I'll have to actually save room for dessert. Our server claims the Carrot Cake is delicious, but I'm interested in finding out about this Raspberry Bread Pudding type special a fellow foodie told me about. So much to try! Is it Wednesday yet?
2515 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. Phone: 480-990-1599
Carlsbad Tavern - LD (late nite), $9- $23
Originally custom built for a seafood restaurant that didn't make it, Carlsbad Tavern sailed in to this unusual site just as soon as the last oyster was auctioned off.
Chips and Two Salsas, a freebie at many places, here is a paid-for appetizer. Its $2.25 tag is not unreasonable since you get a large basket of freshly made multi-colored chips and two deliciously complex salsas. Another pleasing contrast comes from a pair of sweet Spicy Crab Cakes under an umbrella of tangy habañero aioli.
Carlsbad's versions of some of the more familiar Sonoran-style dishes are under the heading Green Chile Trail Specials. They come with an exemplary rendition of rice and tasty black beans.
The Entrée and Pasta menus don't go into effect until 4 p.m., and include such great dishes as Garlic Shrimp, generous with both its namesakes, and The Carlsbad Pasta with its chipotle spirals coddling grilled chicken and pungent Andouille sausage chunks.
3313 N. Hayden Rd, Scottsdale, 85251
Carly's Bistro - L(late)D, $6-$8, SV, Sun. Opens at 4
When the Paisley Violin moved to the westside, Carly and crew removed the clutter, gave the place a coat or two of paint (think orange and turquoise) and put up a new sign. Now, with an emphasis on the healthy — and vegetarian, if you ask for it — the Mediterranean-inspired menu is a delight. For starters, the Olive Tapenade (a savory olive, garlic and caper spread) served with more olives, red peppers, pita wedges and grilled ciabatta bread, makes you feel like you're in the old country. The Soup of the day on my last outing was a sensational Creamy Red Pepper with pieces of soft-cooked onions and peppers for intensity. Sandwiches here run hot and cold (in temperature, not quality), with the Ex-Patriot being a prime example of the former. Turkey, melted Brie and tomatoes contrast nicely with the Sweet Onion Relish, all on chewy grilled Ciabatta, served with either Terra Chips or some of the best-darned Tabouli on the planet. Not the grassy-tasting stuff you find elsewhere, here the cracked wheat kernels have a completely refreshing lemony, minty flavor that makes me order this dish frequently. Another hot gem is the Europa, with marinated artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, tomatoes, spinach and smoked mozzarella, also on Ciabatta. Tuna stars in the cold Pain Bagne, along with olive oil, capers, grilled red peppers and tomatoes on a Kaiser, while the Tuna Nicoise is a near classic, missing the hard-cooked eggs and anchovies, but otherwise served with capers, green beans, tomatoes and a sassy Nicoise dressing. Don't overlook the Cape Cod Salad of spinach and walnuts, Gorgonzola, dried cranberries and apples, tossed with a sultry balsamic dressing. Despite the vegan part of the appellation, the Chocolate Mousse Pie is dreamy. Serving beer, wine and spirits.
128 E. Roosevelt St. (NW corner at 2nd St.), Phoenix, 602-262-2759.
Cheba Hut - LD; ($4-$9), Open daily;
Those who like things nice and toasty will be addicted to this offbeat type of sub factory. Their twist here is that the loaves, which come in modules of four inches (i.e.: four, eight and 12), are split lengthwise, covered with the meats and cheeses, then run through a conveyor-belted toaster. Most veggies, greens, and other plant materials are added later. Of the 20 combos offered, highlights include the Jamaican Red, with spicy grilled chicken, green bell peppers, jalapeños, black olives and cheddar cheese; the Hydro, which melts parmesan and provolone cheeses over mellow eggplant slices slathered with home-grown marinara and a couple of grinds of black pepper; and a smoked ham, Hawaiian pineapple and Swiss trio called a Pakalolo. A half-dozen ultra fresh salads complete the menu, and a cool selection of Sobas is an added plus.
960 W. University (at Hardy), Tempe. Phone: 480-446-0088.
Chelsea's Kitchen - LD, $10-$20+
When it comes to gardening, some people have the green thumb. No mater what they touch, it blossoms with vitality and beauty. Well when it comes to restaurateuring, Craig and Kris DeMarco of La Grande Orange and Postino have a golden thumb. And seems that they have yet another success with Chelsea's Kitchen. Located just a half a mile north of the DeMarco's trifecta, Chelesea's is basic old-fashioned American restaurant with a little bit of a southwest edge. They call it Arizona Roadhouse fare.
Lunch, dinner, or a special "Sunday's at Chelsea's," you're guaranteed to find something you'll simply love and devour. The delectable menu consists of salads and lighter fare. Textbook (and picture) perfect are the Chicken Nachitos, a starburst of large triangular crisp tortilla chips, each covered with chunks of marinated grilled chicken glued down with melted cheese, covered with guacamole, chopped tomatoes and shavings of soft white cheese, served with a cup of pico de gallo. Also with high marks in the looks department, but even higher in taste, is the Tuna Steak Tartar and Guacamole Dip. Softly chopped, ultra fresh pieces of silken tuna mixed with a soy-lemon vinaigrette form a round foundation for the delightfully chunky guacamole, topped with shreds of radish. Crisp homemade roasted corn tortilla chips make a halo around this almost sacred offering. Burgers, Sandwiches and Chelsea's signature Taco Platters round out the menu with a whole slew of that good ole' roadhouse fare. Not a fan of eating the beef? Well even the burger menu has a few options for you with a Vegetarian Nut Burger made fresh daily with all the fixins and finished off with Russian Dressing or a No. 1 Ahi Tuna Burger decked out the same way. The (Cheddar) Cheeseburger, ordered medium rare, was a bit of a disappointment. It came out just a hair on the other side of medium — too much cooking for such a lean patty — but it had a nice bun. Another saving grace was the Baked Home Fries, made from skin-on new potatoes, with great flavor.
5040 N. 40th St., (just north of Camelback Road), Phoenix, 602-957-2555.
Chevuront's Wine Bar — L D, $8 - $15.
For those searching to cure those bland lunch blues simply remember, wine bars aren't just for dinner any more. Chevuront's has a short list of salads, sandwiches, a soup of the day and a few pizzas to bring the zing back to your lunch hour. For dinner, they drop the sandwiches, pare down the salad selections, keep the soup and desserts, but add a quartet of appetizers and a trio of entrées. But right now we are focusing on helping get you through that 9 to 5.
Two salads, a Caesar ($7) and a Poached Pear ($9), are available for both meals as well as three larger entrée salads including a brilliant Beef Tenderloin and Blue Cheese ($13). The Poached Pear is a glorious salad uniting of spicy ginger poached pear slices, dried cranberries and walnuts on a bed of arugula tossed in a tangy citrus vinaigrette.
Noontime offers two additional salad selections, both fresh and crisp as a spring day. Fish lovers will delight in the carnival of flavors of the Pan-roasted Salmon ($11). Equally tantalizing is the Roasted Chicken and Spinach Salad ($9) with strawberries and pine nuts in a raspberry vinaigrette.
With the bread for the sandwiches coming from Willo Bakery, you know the results are going to be special. The Roasted Turkey ($9) is goosed up with gruyere and cranberry walnut relish, then presented on sunflower seed bread, and even the Black Forest Ham ($8) has smoked gouda, caramelized onions and a zesty orange Dijon mustard to compliment its sourdough carrier.
A selection of house-made pizzas rounds out this luscious lunch menu and guarantees a Pièce de résistance for even the pickiest eater. The familiar Marguerite ($11) is spiced up with a zesty tomato sauce and the Pizza Blanc ($12.50) is an exciting twist on the popular style of pizza with a seafood spin of sea scallops and shrimp along side a homemade Béchamel cream sauce. And with four others to choose from, there is something for anyone.
No matter what you order, each bite envelops you in a cocoon of contentment, as the world's troubles slip away. Maybe it should be up for a Nobel Peace Prize! District or party affiliation aside, one visit and I'm sure you, too, will vote for Cheuvront.
1326 N. Central Ave. (across from Burton Barr Library). Phoenix, 602-307-0022. Fax 602-716-9845.
Coach and Willie's - LD, $6-$11
BOB and AWA have been getting a lot of new neighbors lately. Sports fans get hungry, and there are gobs of them at a time, so quality, service and price can vary greatly in the shadow of these people-magnets. This place covers all those bases amazingly well, and has a multi-level patio with lots of stone and water features along with a beautiful dining room anchored with a circular bar in the center and lots of booths around the periphery that actually can seat six Sumo wrestlers without crowding! I would call the food American with a twist. The American part satisfies the majority of the sporting event masses, while the twist satisfies those with more of a sense of culinary adventure. Check out their signature Southwestern Corn Chowder, chock-full of roasted corn kernels awash in a mixture of heavy cream, bacon, chilies and Cajun spices (and "various secret spices"). The Chicken Caesar Pasta Salad is a generous blending of all three, and the Italian Nachos could feed a herd of Italian Stallions! The Crab Bread and the Prosciutto Wrapped Prawns deserve special kudos. A Bourbon Steak Flatbread Wrap is fantastic, with strips of filet, marinated in bourbon and sour mash whiskey, herbs and spices, rolled up with grilled onions and mushrooms, interspersed with melted cheese. We try two pasta dishes both with the richest cream sauce imaginable. Although they are delicious, they are so filling that neither the Italian Sausage and (wild) Mushroom Penne nor the Tequila Shrimp Linguine is done justice to ... until the next day, reheated. Fried Chicken, Meatloaf and Macaroni & Cheese are down-home staples not to be missed. As a finale, the Downtown Chocolate Brownie is a chocoholics delight with its double chocolate cake and dark ganache sauce, and the Caramelized Banana Calzone, filled with chunks of sweetened fruit and ricotta then doused in a praline caramel sauce surely will satisfy the most jaded sweet tooth in town.
412 S. 3rd St., Phoenix, 602-254-5272.
CoffeeTalk - BLD, $4-$7
Housed in a rainbow colored Victorian with an immense front patio, this is as much a funky, fun, comfortable coffee house as anything else. At night, entertainment provides a focus lacking in the daytime, but a quiet, casual lunch can be a lovely relaxing experience, although on hot days the limited number of indoor air-conditioned tables can be exceeded quickly. What could be a better summer luncheon fare than a perfectly seasoned curried chicken sandwich with red-skinned potato salad and an ice cold glass of lemonade? Pastries, coffees and teas (a nice selection) can go with or stand alone.
48 N. Robson, Mesa, 480-844-2353. Fax 835-5915.
Corbin's Bar & Grill - L(late)D, $6-$18
North Central's Calico Cow has a new neighbor just a block or so north of the canal. This smartly modern rehab of an older tavern is drawing the crowds for its food, atmosphere and service, all of which are exemplary. A terrific summer starter is the Smoked (in house) Salmon platter, complete with capers, chopped egg, red onion, cornichons and lemon, served with toast points and dill cream cheese. Their answer to pizzas, the stone-fired Quesadillas are wonderful for sharing as an appetizer. There are half a dozen equally intriguing ones, including Mesquite Smoked Pork with honey BBQ sauce and crème fraiche, and, for vegetarians (and meat eaters, too), one with Portabella mushrooms, roasted red bells and Kalamata olives. If Wings are your thing, these glistening beauties are offered in three versions: Diablo (medium hot for aficionados), teriyaki and R and B (Memphis BBQ drizzled with honey) and two portion sizes. Nachos also come in two sizes: large and gigantic. Try the ones with diced Tasso ham. Yummy! The salad guy or gal has a half-dozen to choose from. I particularly like the Club, a version of a Cobb, with grilled chicken, Tasso ham, crumbles of blue cheese, chopped boiled eggs, ripe tomatoes and creamy avocado slivers. There is a variety of Burgers and Sandwiches, and some entree Big Dishes, including a fat double cut pork chop, grilled salmon with a ginger-soy glaze, a rare-seared tuna steak with green onion wasabi sauce and Corbin's Chicken stuffed with green chilis and queso fresco then sauteed with garlic and shallots and topped with green chili butter. If you pardon the pun, that is one hot dish. Desserts, made on the premises, include Cheesecake and Double Fudge Brownies.
8729 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-466-3201.
Coronado Café - LD, $7.95 - $16+,Closed Sun.
Take a country cottage, entered through a small field of colorful poppies and wild flowers. Add furniture from a country schoolhouse, and other country décor. Combine with the down-home cordiality of the host and mix with the country-with-an-urban-twist cookery of the chef, and you've got a great recipe for feeding about two dozen lucky diners at a time at the Coronado Café.
At lunchtime, that porch can get quite crowded and, for good reason. Although the menu lists the usual soups ($2.50-$3.50), salads ($2.50-$5.75), and sandwiches ($4.95-$5.95), each one has a special twist that takes it above the ordinary.
Meal sized salads each have their own zinger (or two) to make them extraordinary. Outstanding, is the Coronado Gorgonzola Walnut Salad: a bed of various greens with slices of red onion, apples, crumbled gorgonzola and caramelized walnuts, are bound with a magnificent herbed balsamic vinaigrette.
At dinnertime, out go the pots of cactus on each table to be replaced with glass flowerpots glowing from votive candles. The lights are lowered and the music gets a little more mellow.
Just some of the current Featured Entrees include a Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin ($19) with apple and jicama slaw, a Bing Cherry Barbequed Chicken with summer squashes ($17) and an Oven Roasted Alaskan Halibut with warmed chunky gazpacho ($21)
There are six sinful choices for dessert, but all are so good it's hard to decide. The Mixed Berry Cornbread Cobbler a la Mode ($5) combines many flavors in one huge serving that tastes great and yet is not all empty calories. For one that is all empty calories—and worth every one of the several thousand offered—Double Fudge Brownie Sundae with Carmel ($5) fits the bill. Need I say more?
2201 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 85006; 602-258-5149
Crackers and Co. Cafe - (early)BL $6-$8+
Hidden (but easily found) in an industrial area, Crackers has grown over the last 21 years to be a sizeable eatery. But, even with its large capacity and elusive locale, you can — no, should — expect a wait at most hours they are open. What's the fuss about? Simply honest, down-to-earth, prepared from scratch breakfasts and lunches at very reasonable prices. And this isn't a dump, either. The decor is far nicer than it has to be, and the well-trained staff is far friendlier, too. Breakfast, served from an early 7am (and all the way 'til closing on weekends), runs the gamut from Biscuits & (sausage) Gravy (with a pair of eggs and potatoes) to Granola Healthcakes with Blueberries and Strawberries (fabulous with their optional Praline topping), with lots of omelets in between. For something a little different, try the Pork Carnitas Skillet or the classy California Eggs Benedict, with spinach, bacon, avocado and tomatoes added to the (layered) mix. Lunches include (half-pound) Burgers (the Portabella has the beef crowned with a giant balsamic and garlic marinated cap, a slab of Swiss and dollop of house dressing — yummy!), Sandwiches off the Grill and combo Soup & Half Sandwich; all three categories come with a cup of their super homemade soup, from a changing list of 10 or more. I love at least four of their regular offerings: Chicken Dumpling, Cream of Spinach & Artichoke, (spicy) Chicken Tortilla and heavenly Baked Potato! When available, they make a slammin' Gazpacho and an incredible Shiitake Mushroom. Another department that Crackers excels in is Salads. They are generous, crisp, quite varied and come with a choice of unusual dressings, like Poppy Seed, Raspberry Walnut Vinaigrette and Parmesan Peppercorn, among the more mainstream ones. I adore the Fruited Chicken (I'm still talking salads here, folks!), with raisins, pineapple, mandarin oranges, celery and creamy lemon dressing, and the Apple Spinach with Chicken, which also sneaks in bacon, spiced feta cheese, red onions, mushrooms and toasted almonds. On my last visit there were 16 desserts (sweet sixteen?), which made decisions terribly difficult. I mean, from a list that includes the likes of Blackberry Bread Pudding, Carrot Cake, Chocolate Raspberry Fudge Cake, Kahlua Brownies, Turtle Cheesecake, Tres Letches, Oreo Cake and Sour Cream Praline Cake (and I already deleted half the others), who can choose just one?
535 W. Iron Ave. (west of Country Club Ave., south of Hwy. 60 — look for the blue awning behind Home Depot), Suite 131, Mesa, 480-898-1717. Fax 480-833-8312. www.crackersandcompanycafe.com.
Crazy Otto's Diner — BL, $6-$12
Big portions and reasonable prices keep this place packed until closing. Lunches are good, but breakfasts are our meal of choice. Try the Corned Beef Hash, the Machaca and Eggs, the Chicken Liver Omelet (don't knock it if you haven't tried it) or the Prime Rib and Eggs. Savory Biscuits and Gravy, too. Service is extra friendly, and the wrap around patio is perfect for this time of year.
3502 W. Greenway Road, #20, Phoenix, 602-298-2993.
Crust Pizza and Wine Café - LD $2.75-26.50, 7 days a week
Wood-burning oven, check. Affordable, large menu, check. Stylish and comfortable, check and check.
There is by no means a shortage of little pizzerias sprouting up all over the Valley, though it's the locally owned version that usually seems to have certain flair of distinction whether in the service, ingredients or atmosphere. Crust has created their own distinction with not only fresh ingredients, but in the way they are used. Starting with the White Bean and Tomato Tartar ($9) is a fresh and interesting choice. Plump cannelloni beans and a dice of tomato, served with pesto toast points set the tone for the rest of the satisfying dinner. The Tuscan salad ($7) could make for a meal in itself, served complete in a thin and crispy bread bowl. Arugula, white beans and tomatoes tossed in Italian vinaigrette are both refreshing and light. Be sure to ask for some Parmesan cheese with the salad, then be prepared to pass the bowl onto your dining mates, they'll love you more for it!
Is it an appetizer or a meal? It's your choice when ordering the Meatball Sliders ($9). Three thick, generous balls covered in marinara and Romano cheese sandwiched between the cutest little buns.
Crust has on the menu what they call a Rustica. It's essentially a giant free-formed slice of pizza, though it might take two hands to handle the meat version. The Meat Rustica ($8.50) has a slightly chewy and crispy crust. Topped with sausage, pepperoni, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and finished with basil, it's large enough to be served on a wooden board. If you want something a little easier to get your mouth around, the Rollatini's might be an interesting alternative. The Chicken Parmagino Rollatini ($7) takes strips of breaded chicken then packs them into a pizza crust with cheese, and then is rolled and baked into another two-handed feast. If you are more of a pizza-topping purist, then order the Rustica Bianco ($8.75). Four cheeses and roasted garlic make this simple slab an outstanding choice.
The menu is quite extensive, serving sandwiches, whole pizzas and even pizza by the slice. Crust does have a wonderful wine by the glass menu as well as a small beer menu. Be sure to make a party of it, the largest table can easily seat 12 and they take reservations.
6989 Hayden Road, Suite 9 (southwest corner of Hayden an Indian Bend Road), Scottsdale.; Phone: (480) 948-3099.
Dillon's Restaurant - LD, $6-$15
It's a paradoxical wonder. It is housed in a cottage-style building that sits in front of an automotive mall. The cottage looks small from the outside, but its interior is almost cavernous. It is only a mile or two from one of the highest concentrations of chain restaurants in the world, yet it is independently owned and operated. And, it has consistently outstanding food, although it sits squarely within the borders of Peoria! It's not unusual to see the whole place filled with folks who appreciate the fine pecan-smoked meats for which Dillon's has gotten quite a reputation. There is a charming area in front of the fireplace (nice for nippy winter nights — remember those?), but my favorite spot is the room at the back, where, a delightful garden with pine trees, statuary, birds and rabbits await outside big picture windows. But the big picture here is the food, which comes in gargantuan portions. Appetizers worth mentioning include a fantastic Spinach Enchilada crammed with marinated artichoke hearts and mantled under a rich regional sauce; a Southwestern Vegetable Crisp; and the loaded Nachos. Soups are tasty (try the Southwestern Smoked Stew, almost a meal in itself) or order one of the wonderful (and colossal) full meal salads. Sandwiches can also be ordered for lunch and dinner, and are mostly from the smoked and sauced varieties. We recommend the Baked Potato Salad, an original house specialty, as a don't-miss side dish. Most of the BBQ Dinner Specials and the Combo Platters are just plain fabulous. The Brontosaurus Beef Rib Platter was the absolute behemoth in size and flavor, with nine of the tastiest and meatiest bones around. A surprise highlight was the Burnt Ends (when available), which didn't seem to be ends (or burned) at all, just the juiciest, most succulent hunks of beef you've ever tried. The BBQ sauce is practically superfluous. Catfish, here dubbed the "Steak of the Lake," is batter-fried with the utmost of respect. For a grand finale, the Double Goo Doozie, a gigantic scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream sandwiched between two disks of chocolate chippers, threaded with ribbons of caramel sauce and topped with a dollop of whipped cream is great. However, the Mocha Mud Pie, taller than you would think the laws of physics allowed, resting on a platform of Oreo Cookie crust carefully balanced with a topping of chocolate syrup and whipped cream, is to-kill-for. So, take a drive on the Westside, and discover Peoria's most impressive cottage industry. Your taste buds will thank you for it.
8706 W. Thunderbird Rd (just west of the loop 101 freeway), Peoria, 623-979-5353. www.dillonsrestaurant.com.
Dual Contemporary American Cuisine - D, $12-$19+, closed Mon.
As fine for the eye and ear as for the palate, this new venture is a real plum for Gilbert, which should be ashamed for the nasal tragedy that surrounds it. Cornmeal Crusted Fried Green Tomatoes; Skewered Watermelon with Prosciutto and Arugula; Yellow Tomato, Roasted Garlic, Pesto and Goat Cheese Pizza; Bucatini Pasta with Veal Ragu; Braised Short Ribs; and Stuffed Leg of Lamb are some of the goodies that await those who dare to travel. All their Desserts are orgasmic!
4972 S. Power Road, 480-840-3461, www.dualrestaurants.com.
Ed, the Hotdogger - L, $4-$6
Yes, it's just a stand (actually there's another at Jefferson and 1st Avenue, too), but it's where folks have been getting their wiener fix for over 30 years. Perfectly cooked Italian and Polish Sausages will bring back memories of the old country, and the hot dogs are ballpark perfect. You can't go wrong with a cup of their lemonade, either.
Jefferson at Third Ave., SE corner.
El Pollo Supremo - LD, $4-$6
This hole-in-the-wall restaurant is big on take-out, but they do have an ample seating area for those of other neighborhoods. You have your choice of very good spit-roasted chicken or magnifico grilled tri-tip beef. Both have been marinated in a secret concoction that gives them a wonderful and distinctive flavor. The crispy edges of the thinly sliced beef give it a slight advantage over the chicken. With ranch-style beans and tortillas, this is a real bargain.
221 W. University Ave., Tempe, 480-966-3713.
Famous Dave's - LD, $8-$18
It's hard to believe that one of the best BBQ joints in town is part of a chain of restaurants out of Minneapolis! Everything about this place is extraordinary, from the fun decor to the backyard barbecue friendly service to the best 'cue meats you've ever wrapped your tongue around and great sides to go with them. Dave spent over 25 years roaming the country, tasting barbecue from thousands of places, eventually perfecting each of the three important aspects of what he serves: the meat, the smoking and the sauce; in total, winning over 200 awards. Your waiter will explain the seven sauces they serve, and I'll bet you'll end up buying a bottle or two to take home with you. Great family-style bargain platters, too. Don't underestimate their bread pudding or hot fudge Kahlua brownie for dessert.
16148 N. 83rd Ave., Peoria, 623-979-3706, www.famousdavesbbq.com.
The Farm at South Mountain - BLD, $7-$9, Closed Mon.
A spot of rural tranquility in the midst of the city, this quaint cafe with its patios and bubbling little brook sits in a grove of 100 pecan trees. What could be more wholesome, except for the food? Soups, salads and sandwiches comprise their daily fare, with homebaked Scones, Muffins, and Cobblers filling in the breakfast and dessert categories. The pecan part of the Pecan Turkey Waldorf salad is harvested on the premises, and the red grapes, celery and green apples combined with a sour cream and dried apricot dressing make this bowl of greens extraordinary! A Mesquite Grilled Eggplant Sandwich on sourdough, with likewise grilled red peppers, marinated ripe tomatoes and a healthy slab of fresh mozzarella is most memorable. Love that Southern Pecan Coffee, too.
6106 S. 32nd St., Phoenix, 602-276-6360. Fax 276-7929.
Fez - LD, $5-$18
Here the drama doesn't all rest with the decor. The food is amazingly good and innovative — the servings handsomely plated to boot. Some of the menu highlights are the Chicken Phyllo Packets, Lettuce Wraps, Cumin Cinnamon Carrot Soup, Tangier Burger, Spiced Lamb Kisra, Pesto Dijon Lamb Chops and Cinnamon Dusted Sweet Potato Fries. If Almond Crème Brulée is on the menu, order it; if not, ask for it (plead for it or even beg for it). You'll be glad you did. By the way, lunches are only served on weekdays.
3815 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-287-8700.
Floyd's Kitchen - D, ($9-18) closed Sundays
Named after his dog, Floyd's Kitchen is the brainchild of restaurateur Brandon Hermansky and his business partner, Don Hall. Floyd's has so much going for it, such as ample dinner portions and some of the lowest prices I've seen in ages.
When the days and nights are colder, it seems that everyone is all about hearty food. Fortunately, this is the main focus on the Floyd's menu.
The appetizer selection was hard to narrow down to just a few. Flat Bread Pizza ($7) was a decent enough start. Next up was the Hummus Trio ($7) including garlic Parmesan, cilantro jalapeno and artichoke red pepper. It seems these days that it's very vogue to have Mac & Cheese ($7) on the menu. There are four house salads to choose from. We ordered Floyd's House ($5) blue cheese, cucumbers, tomatoes and croutons with mixed greens in a peppercorn ranch that was as hearty as it was satisfying.
Each night Floyd's has a different dinner special; on my visit, the plate was full of Lamb Chops ($18). The five thick, luscious chops could have easily commanded far more dollars anywhere else. Alongside were grilled asparagus, mashed potatoes and mint dipping sauce.
With great prices and friendly service, Floyd's goes to show that an independent can compete with the national chains. With a little bit of time, this could be one of those great little neighborhood treasures.
12601 N. Tatum Blvd. (between Shogun and Sprouts), Phoenix. Phone: (602) 424-0275.
Freddy's Frozen Custard and Steakburgers - LD $1.99-$4.99
Though you can get a single for as low as $1.99, this is no time for scrimping. A triple has lots more flavor for just a few bucks extra. If you need to stay below two bucks, the Chili Dog is a big winner. The Fries are real tasty, the Cheese Fries even better, and the greasy Onion Rings top the taste barrier. On the Frozen Custard side, remember that the custard is a bit thinner, but smoother and richer tasting, which is great for Sundaes, but is somewhat lost in their Concretes. Try the Signature Turtle (hot fudge, hot caramel, toasted pecans, whipped cream and a cherry) or the Hawaiian Delight (pineapple, strawberry, coconut, macadamia nuts, whipped cream and the obligatory cherry) to maximize the difference between ice cream and frozen custard.
4929 W. Bell Road, Glendale, 602-843-CONE (2663).
The Fry Bread House - LD, $4-$6, Closed Sun.
Now situated in its new and larger digs, this place still gets very crowded at lunchtime, so be prepared to spend more than half an hour. People literally come from miles around to enjoy the specialty — large disks of light, fluffy, golden brown Fry Bread — folded or open, with or without such toppings as Cheese, Beans and Red or Green Chili Beef in various combinations. If you don't want the fry bread, you're still in luck because there is a hearty Vegetable Beef Stew and one of Hominy, as well as bowls of Green or Red (Chili). Additionally, you'll find Red or Vegetarian Tamales (I prefer the latter), a Bean Tostada, and a very credible Menudo (rojo or blanco). For dessert, why there's a Fry Bread awaiting you with powdered sugar or honey. What the heck, go for them both!
4140 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-351-2345. Fax 602-266-3789.
Gecko Grill - LD, $4-$9, Closed Sun.
Some barbecue places are smokers and some are saucers. Gecko is a self-declared saucer, (although the meats are quite adequately smoked). The "homebrewed barbecue" sauce comes in three strengths the owner terms hot, medium, or mild, but I think industrial strength, delicious and wimpy are more apropos. In any case, they have a complex taste — somewhere between sweet and sassy — that gets your taste buds standing at full attention! A nice and cheesy Twice-baked Potato, fluffy fries, a well-balanced coleslaw, and an interesting version of Barbecued Beans round out the sides. And, a whole-wheat roll replaces the dreaded white bread. Hallelujah! When Gecko moved to its present larger and better location a few years ago, it expanded the menu considerably to include a large variety of Sonoran dishes, some with a little twist. We like the Arroz Con Pollo; the Tropical Pork Relleno stuffed with pork and tropical fruits, then topped with mango sauce; and the Seafood Grande, a crisp flour tortilla filled with sauteed shrimp, grilled fish and crab, all covered with a creamy sauce and melted cheeses. The Chicken Fajita Burrito, an unusual concept, is kinda self-explanatory; the Crab Relleno, stuffed with lots of crab and a binder of cream cheese, is a rich and creamy delight; and the Shrimp Mango Quesadilla smothered in seafood sauce makes a nice starter for two to four. Enchilada lovers will love the Vallarta, a pair of corn tortillas stuffed with shrimp, fish and cheeses. Service is friendly and prompt.
835 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert, 480-892-8099. Fax 480-539-4967.
Gordon Biersch Brewery-Restaurant - L (late) D, $8-$20+
The food and the view of bustling downtown Tempe from the second story balcony make the hike up two flights of stairs (there is an elevator for the disabled and the disgruntled) a happy exercise. Besides, the portions are more than ample to make up for the spent calories. Although breweries are springing up all over the Valley, few have a kitchen to compare with this one. Neither the brews nor the cuisine is an afterthought here, and the menu has a lot of flair as well. For starters, you can hardly beat a pair of Tamarind and Garlic Marinated Chicken Skewers with Sesame Vinaigrette, or Cornmeal Dusted Crab Cakes served with Cajun Remoulade. Or, how about the Great Wall of Arizona Southwest Egg Rolls stuffed with a jumble of pulled chicken, roasted red peppers, black beans, corn and pepperjack cheese, further heat augmented with jalapeño ranch dipping sauce. I love unusual salads, and the Gorgonzola Pear Salad with pecan crusted chicken is a zingy combination made even zingier with their Märzen Vinaigrette. In the pizza department, I find it hard to stray from the Roasted Garlic and Chicken pie with whole roasted bulbs and pulled breast meat in a white sauce, made of homemade dough and finished in a wood-burning oven, although there are nine others that sound very tempting. There are lovely pastas, too, but either the Cajun Fettuccine, loaded with Andouille sausage, grilled chicken and shrimp in a zippy tomato cream sauce, or the Pasta Jambalaya's orzo dish with a combination of shrimp, chicken, Andouille and ham (decisions, decisions) will save you thousands over a trip to The Quarter. Satisfaction guar-an-teed! The sticky bun caramel sauce on the Warm Apple Bread Pudding is quite addictive. And don't forget the brewery part: mini-flights of the homebrews help you to decide which to zero in on.
420 S. Mill Ave., Tempe, 480-736-0033.
Green New American Vegetarian - LD, $5-$9, closed Sun.
Some people like it green, and some people need it green. I am not one of those folks, but I will relay the news to you who are about a new place in south Scottsdale that is most reasonable and quite popular. Don't go for the atmosphere (nothing to speak of) or the service (semi-self), but do go for the likes of fresh Salads (Balsamic Picnic Salad features candied pecans, apples, strawberries and figs over greens with homemade balsamic "syrup"), Flatbread Pizzas (make your own with real and mock ingredients or try the Greenza with homemade pesto sauce and vegan Mozzarella), Sammies, Po-boys and Burgers (mostly mock this and that, but a tasty veggie "Green" Burger), and some Sides (only order the Tahini Coleslaw if you're real adventurous). Damon Brasch does best with his Bowls over pan fried noodles or brown rice (the Sweet and Sour is a winner with citrus and ginger spiking sauteed veggies and a fake meat or tofu) and a trio of House Specials (Orecciette Pasta with mock meatballs, tomato sauce and veggies is a nice combo) which round out the offerings, except for a few desserts (several made with soft-serve soy ice cream).
2240 N. Scottsdale Road; 480-941-9003, www.greenvegetarian.com.
Haps Pit Barbecue - LD, $3-$9, SV, Closed Sun.
Give a guy an inch and he'll run a mile. Some time ago Dan Darroch (Sr.) found a small spot on his used car lot and set up a little barbecue stand for his customers and those folks in the area that had no good place to get grub. Well, one of the restaurant critics (not me, I wasn't writing at the time) discovered the smoky wagon (probably with his or her nose) and gave it a little write-up. The rest is history. Now there are two permanent restaurants (the original stand is gone), one on the west side of town, the other on the east. Both serve up super "Q," using the same recipes and source of ingredients. All the meats are hand rubbed, then slowly smoked over hardwood. The results are amazing. If you like sauce on your BBQ, his traditional is a delightful blending of sweet and tangy, with a depth of herbs and spices not often found. Want something different. They now have Picante, Mint (nice with lamb) and Creamy Horseradish (gives a new dimension to brisket) sauces in addition. If you like your meats naked, Hap's can stand on their own as well. Try the Meat Sampler if you can't make up your mind (although you still have to choose three from among: Pulled Pork, Lamb [yes, and it's fabulous!], Hot Links [more savory than pepper hot], Beef Brisket and Ham). Besides those three, you also get a nice portion of Ribs and Chicken, all for a measly $11.39. I doubt you could buy that much meat from your local market for that price! For those on a budget, their Soul Bowls of one meat over rice are a real bargain, but don't forget Hap's Raps, a big portion of smoked meat in a flour tortilla, served with Jalapeno or BBQ sauce, for $3.19! If bread is a must, all of the meats (including rib tips, served open style to protect your teeth) can be piled high on a fresh bakery bun. And, for 59 cents more, you can get them topped with coleslaw, Tennessee Style. The selection of sides is limited, but with Garlic Mashers this tasty, who cares? Very worthwhile, but a bit more costly, are the Old Settler Beans (three beans, smoked beef and bacon) and the Broccoli & Cheese Casserole. Don't you dare miss dessert, either. Try and choose just one between the Peach Cobbler (or Apple or Cherry) and the Pecan Pie. Both are incredible. Which is not to say bad things about the Jumbo Fudge & Nut Brownie; but it definitely comes in third in this group. A variety of Domestic and Imported Beers, Ales and Stouts makes for refreshing liquid go-withs.
3201 W. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602-279-8090. www.hapsbbq.com.
Havana Cafe — LD $6-$20+
This charming cafe gives you rock solid value and an abundance of flavors that are different and universally satisfying at the same time. With a good sized patio for fair weather, a very friendly and helpful staff (still headed by BJ Hernandez), and a cozy but handsome room for a leisurely repast, this is a super place to take someone you want to get to know better. No matter what you choose to eat here, you won't be disappointed. There is a nice selection of Appetizers (tapas), although I sometimes laze out and share the Cuban Sampler with a friend (or sometimes several friends). It highlights six of the most popular small plates, giving a varied sampling for a reasonable price. Next will be a beautiful bowl of Black Bean Soup, the national soup of Cuba — perhaps even the national dish of Cuba — with an Escabeche (a spicy tuna ceviche with peppers, onions, orange segments, avocado slivers and green olives) to balance. More often than not, I'm a sucker for the Picadillo. This is a montage of ground beef with sofrito, cubed potatoes, green olives, pimentos, and capers, served with black beans and rice. But, they also do a wonderful Arroz con Pollo in a giant bowl, and the Pierna de Puerco Asada (leg of pork in a sour orange, lime and garlic glaze) is to die for. Desserts are all homemade ... and if you still have room, the Marquesa is the Achilles heel of chocoholics!
4225 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-952-1991.
Hero Factory - BL, Monday-Friday, $7.95+
Hero Factory caters to the downtown Phoenix lunch crowd with humongous, top-of-the-line hero sandwiches. With veteran deli owners Nicole Dorio and Jay Friedman, quality and freshness are high, while the prices are low. Between the two of them, they have more than 30 years of New York deli experience, which might make this as close to New York as you'll get in the desert.
The heroes at Hero are big, thick and piled heavy with meat, cheese and toppings. Two big eaters can easily share one sandwich and a side. The Manhattan ($7.95) is a thick stack of roast beef piled high on toasted garlic bread, all covered with melted mozzarella cheese. This sandwich was in its most pure form — no veggies and sauces to get in the way — just the simple flavor of good meat, cheese and bread.
The Crackerjack ($7.95) features thin-sliced cracked pepper turkey and oozy melted pepper jack cheese dressed with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and Russian dressing.
If something all-American is more to your liking, there's the Patriot ($7.95), roast beef, turkey, ham and American cheese topped with lettuce, tomato and onion.
114 W. Adams, Phoenix. Phone 602-254-6763.
Honey Bear's BBQ - LD, $4-$10
The lovely folks of this well-established eatery state "You don't need no teeth to eat our meat" — and I reckon that's true. Especially for the pulled pork, which is, in my opinion, the Bear's best sandwich filling. Get it with some crisp slaw or cowboy beans and you're surely in hog heaven. The ribs are not only tender, but nicely mesquite smoked and slathered with a piquant Tennessee-style barbecue sauce that perhaps should be patented. The chicken may be crisp-skinned, but it also has a heart of gold — soft and tender gold, that is! And, as full as you may be, be sure you don't miss the peach cobbler.
5012 E. Van Buren St., Phoenix. 602-273-9148.
The Horny Toad - LD, $5-15+
Every month or so, me and the boys get a hankerin' to go up North and get us a mess of Fried Chicken and Bar-B-Que Ribs at this rustic compound in old Cave Creek. In the winter, you can sit by a roaring fire and sip a brandy to allay the cold. (Summer is minus the fire, but not the atmosphere.)
6738 E. Cave Creek Road, Cave Creek, 480-488-9542 or 602-997-9622.
Humble Pie - LD $9-$12
The simple menu is roughly divided in half, one side having Starters ($7-$12) and Salads ($6-$12), the latter being versatile enough to be shared as appetizers or, in the large size, devoured by a single diner for a somewhat light meal. Below these selections is a listing of four Organic Vegetable Sides ($6) to aid you in fulfilling your food pyramid. A half-score of Humble Pies (they say they're each 10 inches, but from my scrupulous eyeballs they look more like 12) takes up the other half ($10-$12), trying to keep the overall choices to a manageable number; but competition is fierce, and decisions are almost painful. Rest assured that you always could come back another day to try one or two of the alternatives you reluctantly had to turn down.
Try the Shrimp, Burrata, basil and lemon zest pizza, a winner so tasty I had difficulty getting up enough willpower to stop eating. The shrimp were plump, the cheese ultra buttery with a slight salt tang, the basil and zest adding delightful tones to complete the collaborative symphony.
6149 N. Scottsdale Road (north end of Hilton Village), Scottsdale, 480-556-9900. www.humblepieusa.com
InPockets - BL, $4-7, closed Sun.
The pockets are squares of bread dough stuffed with some very flavorful combinations of fillers. You order at a counter and then wait while your pocket is being baked (give this part 10 to 20 minutes). The results are delectable. Try the Chandlers Mark, barbecued pulled pork, or the Distinguished Gentlemen, mild Italian sausage, mozzarella, roasted red peppers and hearty marinara sauce. We also liked the Boardwalk, filled with smoked salmon, capers, cream cheese and red onions, and The Original, stuffed with ground beef, cabbage, onions and seasonings, which reminded us very much of a Russian pirogi. Each comes with choice of one of five sides.
The Baked Taters tasted like homemade tater tots, only more addictive. Of the half dozen salads offered, the Toasted Pecan with carmelized pecans, red onions and goat cheese tossed with mixed baby field greens in a raspberry walnut dressing is a favorite. Be sure to pick up a loaf of freshly baked Apple Bread, if they have any left. You'll be the most popular person at your office.
40 S. San Marcos Place (on the west side of The Square), Chandler, 480-726-2253.
Joe's Real BBQ - LD, $5-$10
Housed in a huge barn-like building built in 1929, when Gilbert was just a dusty one-horse town, Joe's premise is to bring you fine quality meats, slowly smoked beside (not on) a pecan wood fire until tender and juicy, and then married to the proper amount of piquant barbecue sauce. Simple, seductive, and now, not a secret! In fact, it's just the opposite since the word has spread. The meats, from the Beef Brisket to the Pulled Pork to the Pit Ham to the Chicken to the Turkey Jalapeño Sausage (made locally to Joe's specs), are all that a Q should be. The sandwiches and the plates (of one to three meats) come with one or two sides, which can be as boring as the potato salad or as tasty as the cheesy potatoes. Speaking of spuds, a Jumbo (and that's modestly speaking for a one-pounder) Baker Loaded with butter, sour cream, cheese and chives, and Stuffed with any meat is a real bargain — not to mention a whole meal. Another house specialty, the Chopped Salad (with BBQ Ranch dressing!) topped with a pile of chopped meat, rings up at only a buck more. A nice variety of brews are available from tappers, including Joe's Real Rootbeer, Brewed Iced Tea, and Fresh Limeade. There are domestic and imported non-alcoholic beers and, for the kids, milk and bottled sodas.
301 N. Gilbert Road, Gilbert, 480-503-3805. Fax 503-0837.
Joey's California Bistro - LD $6-$15
Upbeat, up-style, and up north! Lucky are those who live near Tomaso Maggiore's newest venture. The Bistro is pleasantly casual, although the service is profusely attentive. The menu is somewhat a hybrid of a pizza/pasta joint and a fine Italian dinner-house. The Maggiore touch insures that the traditional will have just a little wildness around the edges. In the Pizza and Calzone section, for instance, there is a Thai Chicken pie topped with julienne vegetables, chilies, cilantro, scallions, peanuts, and fresh mint. The Pasta listing includes a Wild Mushroom Tortellini filled with Portobella, porcini, and shitaki mushrooms in a Parmesan cream sauce, which is sinfully rich and utterly delicious. Joey's California Crab Cakes add roasted garlic, caramelized onions, fontina cheese and a variety of colorful bell peppers to real crab meat for a taste sensation. On the cooler side is a Lettuce Wrap of chicken tenderloin which has been seared in sesame oil, served with crispy noodles and a hot and sour sauce for dipping. The Bistro Salad is to die for, with lightly fried calamari and rock shrimp tossed with tomato and avocado in a tomato-basil vinaigrette on mixed greens. I also pine for the Fricassee of Chicken and Sausage, with garlic, Portobella mushrooms, and pepperocini when I have put off my northern pilgrimage for too long.
610 E. Bell Rd., Phoenix, 602-789-8044. Fax 602-789-8364.
Kiss the Cook - (early)BL, $4-$6, SV
You don't have to be in love with the cook to eat here, but if you do (eat here), you certainly will leave in love with the cook's food. While some eateries try to be everything to everybody, KtC concentrates on two meals only — breakfast and lunch — and does both very well. Break your fast with something like Oatmeal Royal, and, for a mere $3.50 you get a bowlful of the time-honored cereal (not that instant garbage) garnished with raisins, walnuts and brown sugar, plus a basket of their famous fresh homemade mini-muffins. In fact, almost every breakfast includes the Baker's Basket. Even the usuals are a step above here. Try their Corn Beef Hash or Eggs Benedict and compare to elsewhere. Or the Pancakes or French Toast. I doubt anyone could resist the sweet and sticky homemade Pecan Cinnamon Rolls, a house specialty. I don't know of any other place that does a Snow Pea and Mushroom Omelet (with water chestnuts, onions and jack cheese), but after one taste you'll be asking why no one else does. Love to meddle in the kitchen, but hate the clean up? Here you can design your own three egg Omelet with three fillings of your choosing from a list of 15. Lunches are well prepared, too, and a real bargain. You can have a good old-fashioned PBJ (or Peanut Butter and Sprouts, if you're a brave soul) for a paltry $2.75, or splurge on an Albacore Tuna Salad Sandwich (the most expensive on the menu — made with water chestnuts, too) at $4.95! Salads (even the Seafood Salad with cucumber and Dill) generally run about half-a-buck higher, with the Cajun Chicken Caesar topping out everything at $6.50. There are only two desserts (and Cookies), and both, made on the premises, are fabulous. The Oreo Cheese Cake is from the recipe of the one served at the Scottsdale Culinary Arts Festival Dessert Competition, and the Carrot Cake is from some heavenly recipe they got from somewhere — they're not telling. By the way, even if you don't lay one on the cook, you'll get a sweet kiss from the kitchen with every meal (approx. 25.56 calories).
4915 W. Glendale Ave., Glendale, 623-939-4663.
Landmark Restaurant - LD, $6-$15+
This traditional American food eatery is housed in a nearly 100 year-old building that originally was a Mormon church and later the original campus of Mesa Community College. It not only is noted for its fine quality food at reasonable prices, but first and foremost for its enormous salad room, a rather large chamber with every salad fixin' you can imagine ... and then lots more! Although unlimited trips through it are included with some of the higher priced dinner items (most of which exceed our $15 entree limit), it is also available for a reasonable surcharge with any lunch or dinner item — and well worth it, we must admit. Service is attentive but not overbearing, and linen napkins are to be expected, even for the noontime meal, which includes sandwiches (try the shaved Prime Rib with White Cheddar and Horseradish Sauce) and some hearty entrees as well (the Chicken Marsala is yummy.) For dinner the Fried Sea Scallops or the Roasted Lamb Shank will please the most fastidious of diners. Leave room for an excellent house-made Bread Pudding. Lunches served weekdays only.
809 W. Main St. (at Extension Rd.), Mesa, 480-962-4652.
Linda's on Osborn - LD, $5-$15, SV Sundays B only
A few years ago Linda changed the name of the former RJ's to include her own moniker, since she was the chief cook and bottle washer. Aside from that, little has changed here in the many years she has owned this cute diminutive freestanding cafe. The menu covers many bases, from appetizers to salads to soups to sandwiches and burgers to desserts, with nothing startlingly out of the ordinary. Clipped to the laminated listing are about a half-dozen 3x5 cards with the day's specials, which rotate on a mysterious, but regular, basis. Most of the well-prepared dishes are fried with a gentle hand, especially those "From the Sea," a featured area. Grilled fish and meats are almost always to be found among the dailies, for those who shun the deep fryer. Enter through the side door at your own peril — you pass by all the freshly baked pies, which are virtually impossible to resist.
2333 E. Osborn Road, Phoenix, 602-956-4420.
Lo-Lo's Chicken & Waffles - BLD, $4-$10
Everyone knows where to get great waffles in Phoenix. And, all of you know where to get fabulous fried chicken, as well. But, let's face it, hardly a soul knows where to get great waffles and fabulous fried chicken all on the same plate at the same time. Actually, the word "soul" gives this one away, since this odd but dynamic duo is only seen together at restaurants where soul (food) is the name of a cuisine, such as Mrs. White's (of Golden Rule Cafe fame) nephew's new spot, Lo-Lo's. Believe it or not, serving up "the barnyard pimp with delicious golden brown waffles" is not today's newest fad, but yesterday's tradition brought into the 21st Century. High carb? You bet — but, then again, what southern cooking isn't? Just tell Dr. Atkins you're on vacation, and dig into those Grits, Home Fries or Smothered Spuds and be sure to get a pile of hearty Beans over Rice while you're at it. Don't forget the Corn Muffin, with a Side of Gravy so you don't run out. Of course on weekends (only) you can top all that with an order of Mac & Cheese. Health food addicts can opt for Eggs with Cheese and Onions, or some of the best (mixed) Greens around, with a little pool of potlikker in the bowl, if you're lucky. Yes, they've even got milk — and OJ, if I may be a name-dropper. Open until 2am on Friday nights/Saturday mornings.
10 W. Yuma St. (2 blocks south of Buckeye Road), Phoenix, 602-340-1304.
Mamma Mia Original Pizza and Subs - LD; ($5.95-20.95); open daily
While I'm not sharing much of my low carb journey with anyone, I am sharing the places that I can have something healthy, satisfying and affordable. While Mamma Mia makes an amazing thin and chewy pizza, you have to try their two slices and a Coke for $4 deal. They also offer a low-carb version.
I asked, "There are only 10 grams of net carbs per slice?" "No, only 10 net carbs per 12" pizza!" Yes, sold!
The pizza has an amazing-tasting, super-thin whole-wheat crust covered in delicious Mamma Mia red sauce, ample cheese and juicy sausage. I also ordered 24 Buffalo Wings, which made for another great protein source. The pizza crust was lightly crunchy on the edges and chewy in the middle. I loved the different textures as I worked through each bite. The wings were thick and meaty, and as I dunked each piece in ranch dressing, I almost felt guilty. However, you should never feel guilty about eating, it's a pleasure! At Mamma Mia, I enjoyed every bite!
Two locations: 3937 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602- 508-0444, or 806 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, (602) 277-5512; www.mammamiaphoenix.com.
Market Bistro - LD $6-$7 (Pizzas $11-15) SV
"Fresh in the box - Fast out the window" is the marketing catch phrase of this convenience take-home emporium and eatery. The menu, the decor and, indeed, the entire concept are simple and straightforward. If you could survive on salads, sandwiches and pizzas, there are enough variations and permutations of ingredients (about 30 mix-ins) to have a different one each day for a year and not have to repeat. In or out, Market Bistro is an urge you'll get quite often.
777 E. Thunderbird Road, Phoenix, 602-942-2200, www.mktbistro.com.
Matt's Big Breakfast - (early)BL, $5-$8, SV; closed Mon.
Actually the breakfast is a pretty normal size, but with the cafe being so small (it's in the old Shorty's space), everything looks bigger here. What you could (no, should) say is big, however, is the heart of each member of the staff. Like the jolly cook/waitress at the old-fashioned corner lunch counter in the days of yore (way pre-Denny's), the folks here actually care if you like your food (you will love it) and will cater to your most bizarre idiosyncrasy (food-wise) if they at all are able. They want to make you happy and have you return often. The ingredients they use are all topnotch and fresh as can be. Things like Free-range eggs, thick-cut bacon, country sausages, Soppresata salami, Iowa pork rib chops and off-the-bone ham make breakfast here special. Jump start your day with old-fashioned steel-cut Oatmeal with pure cane sugar and juicy raisins, or a trio of fat homemade Griddlecakes with sweet cream butter and real maple syrup. Matt doesn't skimp at lunchtime, either. His Egg Salad of chopped eggs with bread-and-butter pickles and sweet onion, served on country bread, will transport you back to the days of Judy Garland without even having to click your heels. More current is the Chicken Sandwich where they actually cook the chicken breast from scratch (none of that pressed stuff), marinate it in pesto, and place it, topped with piquant provolone and romaine, on a rustic roll. Ever have a BLT with today's tasteless Mexican tomatoes? Why bother. Matt's have that old tomato taste, his thick-cut bacon is awesome, the mayo is real (non of Rykoff's gloppy spread) and the bread is a lovely toasted country-style. I absolutely adore the Tossed Cobb salad, a jumble of iceberg and romaine (mostly the latter), bacon, chopped eggs, olives, tomato bits and Maytag blue cheese, united with a zingy red wine vinaigrette. This one should be patented.
801 N. 1st St. (at McKinley), Phoenix, 602-254-1074.
Maizie's Café and Bistro - L&D; ($8-$15)
The Starters is a good place to start on this novella of a menu. Bistro staples like brushcetta and hummus are present along side more exciting appetizers such as Crabby Cakes ($12), Dipp'n' Shrimp ($11) and a very exciting Not Your Average Quesadilla ($10), with brie, sun dried tomatoes, artichokes and roasted pine nuts.
Also good was the fun take on the Basil Pesto Bruschetta — soft, flavorful, seasoned and toasted baguettes drizzled with a sweet balsamic reduction. Portioned out on the plate DIY-style, are three healthy mounds of homemade fresh basil, pine nut and asiago cheese pesto and sliced and seasoned tomatoes. Both the pesto and tomatoes were flavorful without being overwhelming, and were accented greatly by the balsamic reduction. But honestly, the bread really makes the dish.
Further into the menu were the Entrée Salads and the Pastas, both sizeable in portion. The salads are served in a large wooden bowl, the kind you used to toss salads in the late '70s. These formidable entrees are easily shared at lunch, or perfect for a ravenous man's dinner. Try the Ancho Salmon Salad ($12.50) with sweet chili grilled salmon, ancho orange dressing, jicama and grilled corn.
The burgers and pizza are staples of American food and very much present on this menu. A standard Bistro Burger ($8.50) is followed by three Inside Out Burgers ($10.50) — The Blue Cheese, Feta and Southwest Burger. They are a great spin on a regular burger with everything but the bun on the inside
The pizzas came out looking really good and the list of toppings was exciting. They are definitely something that I would come back for. And at only $12 for a 14," they are about par with Papa John's.
The Pastas (all fettuccini) were my favorite part of the menu (aside from the drinks!). I opted for the two more expensive pastas ($14) because they were intriguing. The Shrimp Orleans boasted tender spiced tiger shrimp (they don't claim prawns, but they were a decent size), garlic and red onions in a light chardonnay cream sauce. The dish was big and flavorful (once I added just a dash of salt), and came with a wedge of garlic bread.
An even more exotic flavor was the Salmon Dijon pasta, a grilled salmon fillet rested on top of a twisting bowl of light yellowish brown pasta. On first bite, there is almost a pause as your tongue takes in all the flavors at once. Sautéed mushrooms, white wine and a velvety cream sauce are accented with a hint of Dijon. Very unique.
4750 N. Central, Phoenix. Phone: 602-274-2828. Fax : 602-274-3232.
Mining Camp Restaurant - D, $14-$15+
At the foot of the Superstition Mountains, this rustic family-style all-you-can-eat cook shanty has darned good vittles in endless portions. Lots of fun corniness, too!
Off of US Highway 88, north of Apache Junction, 480-982-3181.
Mrs. White's Golden Rule Café - LD, $6-$9
When it comes to Soul Food, one of the first is still one of the best! Fresh veggies and a skilled hand with the fryer keep this place on top. Remarkable Smothered Chicken, Catfish and fresh Peach (or other fruit in season) Cobbler.
808 E. Jefferson St., Phoenix, 602-262-9256.