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Without Reservations - Previous Reviews - American N-Z

Previously reviewed restaurants - American and Caribbean N-Z

KEY: B = breakfast L = lunch D = dinner N = late night SV = special value Prices ranges shown are for a single entree

American and Caribbean (including regional)

Off da Hook - LD, $8-$13, Closed Mon.-Thu.
It's only open weekends (Fri-Sun), has no atmosphere (it's in the very back of the Indoor Swapmart), and isn't exactly cheap. So why do I recommend this place? Their little kitchen puts out some of the best soul food and soul fish in town. You'll love their Catfish, Whiting and Red Snapper, as well as Jumbo Shrimp, and don't forget the meat side of the matter, too. Fried Chicken, of course, is masterfully done, and even plain Baked Chicken is not so plain after all. I recommend the Pork Chops, Meatloaf and Hotlinks, and love to gnaw on their BBQ Ribs, whether they be pork or beef. Oxtails aren't always available, but when they are, grab 'em, and the Gumbo is authentic. Chitterlings are not easy to find around this town, so if you're a fan, this is the place to go. Tasty down home sides include Dirty Rice, Greens, Yams and super Mac and Cheese.
5115 N.27th Ave., Phoenix, 602-242-2828.
Ono Hawaiian BBQ - LD, $4-$8, SV
The food from our 50th state seems quite at home in its new location near Thomas Road's big boxes. Speaking of boxes, the portions are so large, you'll most probably be bringing one of their white styro boxes home with you full of delicious leftovers of Kailbi Short Ribs, Hawaiian BBQ Beef or Crispy Shrimp. Chicken lovers can have their bird done in several styles: Island Curry, Maui Pineapple, Curry Katsu, Teriyaki and BBQ; all are treated with respect. For seafood we suggest you pass on the bland Mahi-Mahi, but do indulge in the Crispy Shrimp or the Garlic Shrimp. For an authentic experience, start with a BBQ Chicken Musubi (like a cooked sushi), a bowl of Seafood Noodle Soup (this could be a meal by itself), and Kalua Pork with Cabbage. All plates come with Vegetables (cabbage), Macaroni Salad and Steamed Rice, for a major carb overload. Burgers, Salads and Hawaiian bottled Drinks are other menu highlights, and there are some combo plates at lower prices than you'll find at the islands, themselves.
3923 E. Thomas Rd., Suite B-4, Phoenix, 602-306-1688.
Open Range Steakhouse - LD, $6-$20+, Closed Mon. Sunday Brunch
For a place out in the boonies (just a few miles from the Renaissance Festival), this steakhouse is far better than it has to be for its captive audience. Full of old west kitch and corny doodads, Open Range is clean and comfy, and deceptively larger than it appears from the outside. In the center is a well-stocked salad bar with enough variety to make interesting bowls of greens, reds, and other fixin's colors, but not really full meal plates. The menu is rather long, but definitely not exotic. There are the usual Sandwiches, Salads, Burgers, and a small Pasta section, along with Steaks, Seafood, Prime (on weekends) and St. Louis Ribs, and a few Down Home Specialties as well. The meats are of good quality, and prepared exactly to specs. Deluxe Toppers can (and should) customize anything on the menu, at a mere pittance. We liked the Swiss, Blue Moon, Wild West and Mexicali. For Dessert we suggest the Almost World Famous Chocolate Raspberry Brownie — then you can help spread the word so they can delete the "Almost." Hours are seasonal, so if you want to go in June through October, call ahead first to make sure they're open.
6030 S. King's Ranch Road, Gold Canyon, 480-983-3020.
Over Easy - B, $5-$9+
For a few years now, Aaron May has been basking in the (much deserved) glory of Sol y Sombra, his DC Ranch tapas emporium extraordinaire. At this point the urge to expand has him opening, of all places, Over Easy, a breakfast joint that intends to take the first meal of the day to heights rarely attained before. So, what makes May's breakfasts stand out from all the rest? Freshness, freshness, freshness! Although he doesn't mention organic, the honest-to-goodness real taste of all the ingredients attests to the superior quality of everything they serve, even standards like bacon, eggs and hash browns. Over Easy redefines the taste of ova, charcuterie and griddle and baked goods in a way that could make an old farmer smile. Enjoy old-fashioned tastes like Malted
Waffles with Butter and Syrup, Blueberry Pancakes with Powdered Sugar, Razz Cherry Scone with Vanilla Crème Fraîche and Honey or hearty Wheat Toast with Quince and Vanilla Jam. Their Ham Steak with Red Eye Gravy will take you back to Bluegrass Country, their bacon is brought in from the Midwest, and their Seared Scottish Salmon (with Asparagus and Hollandaise) no doubt swam alongside Nessie in the old country. Even the beverages here will have you wowed. Try the Over Easy Ice brewed with cinnamon, sweetened condensed milk and cardamom, all with a mint garnish.
4031 N. 40th St. (just south of Indian School Road), Phoenix; 602-468- EGGS (3447).
Papa Christo's - BL, $4-$6, Closed Sun.
Good food served quickly is almost an anomaly in the glass and steel jungle we call downtown Phoenix. Papa comes to the rescue with an Italian-influenced line of pastas, sandwiches and salads, and a pretty reasonable prices, too. Sit inside elbow to elbow with your fellow man (could be good or bad...depending), or outside in a pleasant patio, weather permitting.
2 N. Central Av. (in Renaissance Square), Phoenix, 602-261-7780.
Philadelphia Sandwich Company - 24 hours, $3-$7, SV
Say you find yourself in Scottsdale at 4 in the am (louder, I can't hear you. Are you asleep?) and you have the munchies. What does your average Denny'sphobian do? Head on over to where Scottsdale Road joins 5th Avenue; there you will find the newly opened PSC, whose hours just happen to be 24. Breakfast Sandwiches are just beginning to be served (until 10am), so you get yourself an Egg Sandwich with Cheese (your choice) and Bacon or Sausage. You're now $3.25 lighter (probably a pound or two heavier) and totally satisfied. At other times — or even breakfast time, if you so desire — the overstuffed meat sandwiches on lovely crusted Italian rolls are de rigueur. Multiple versions of Steak Sandwiches, of course, but also permutations of Roast Beef, Roast Pork and Chicken Cutlet are very popular. Certainly one of the most interesting, and utterly juicy and delicious, is the Italiano: one of the above meats with Sharp Provolone (not really that sharp) and Broccoli Rabe or Spinach. The Chicken is breaded, but the other meats are naturally au jus, which soaks the roll with intense flavor. Yes, they serve Burgers and Hot Dogs, but why not try a fabulous Meatball Sandwich, or the outrageous (but traditional) 2nd Street (French Fries, Mayo and Cheese, Toasted). Like Prosciutto? Theirs is imported, and is featured in the Passyank Ave with Roasted Peppers, Mozzarella, Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar, in addition to a couple of others. Right off the boat is the Italian Brand Tuna in Olive Oil and Seasonings, here titled Penns Landing (Philly is in Penns, remember?). There are three fat Cold Hoagies offered as well. Generous orders of Fries (French, Cheese and Pizza), Rings and Mushrooms, in addition to Mozzarella Sticks and Jalapeño Poppers, hot out of the deep fryer, can be had ($3-$4.50) for those with ravenous appetites, or maybe to share some with friends. You probably will have made some new ones by the time you finish your meal.
7158 E. Fifth Ave., Scottsdale, 480-970-1102. Fax 480-970-1312. www.phillysandwichco.com.
Phoenix BBQ & Deli - LD, $7-$15+
Although their slogan "Smoked Slooowly Served Quick" might not be great English, their barbecue certainly is (great, not English)! Portions are generous, service is friendly and as helpful as can be, and the meat has such a nice smoky taste, their tangy sauce is truly an option. Sides such as Red Beans and Rice, Onion Rings and BBQ Beans are terrific ... the Coleslaw and Potato Salad, not as much. Even if you're not a "Q" fan, you'll find a fine cornmeal battered Catfish Dinner, Burgers, and hot and cold sandwiches, many with an Italian bent. The Combo Meals and Dinner Specials are real bargains.
5010 W. Olive Ave.; 623-930-7424; www.phxbbq.com.
Pier 54 - LD, $4-$15+
Mostly a breakfast and lunch type of place, the evening folks come for primarily for drinks and entertainment (though they do have a couple of nightly specials), and the most peaceful lakeside setting in the Valley. Let your cares melt away, as serenity abounds here.
5394 S. Lakeshore Drive, Tempe, 480-820-0660.
Portland's - LD, $9-$20+, closed Sun.
Cool, current and chic, this popular restaurant, art gallery and wine bar anchors the southwest corner of Portland and Central, and, weather permitting, the outdoor patio has pleasant views of the park and the library. Portland's is one of a growing number of eateries that support our local organic growers whenever possible — a win-win-win situation. Here when you get a Caprice, it's with Sunizona vine ripe tomatoes, not the tasteless garbage so often found elsewhere. And the fresh Mozzarella really is! I love the Diver Scallops with citrus butter sauce and an incredible sweet potato polenta, and the PEI Mussels in their sassy wine and ginger sauce. At lunchtime, Eggplant Napoleon is a wise choice. Dinner features Black Wing Farms Grilled Ostrich Tenderloin in a Bing cherry demi-glaze and Phyllo Chicken Baked with Buttermilk Blue Cheese, among others. Even if you just come for coffee and dessert, you must try the Chocolate Macadamia Nut Torte.
105 W. Portland St., Phoenix, 602-795-7480. Fax 602-795-5354.
Reata Pass Steakhouse - LD, $7-$15+
What could possibly be more pleasant on balmy nights (they're even balmier at this high altitude) than sitting on a patio in the desert under a starry, starry sky, having a great steak dinner and listening to the music of a country band. "Rustic," "western," "casual," "delicious," and "fun" are the five words that best describe this rural anomaly, which is far superior to its commercial neighbor where tour busses bring hordes of folks to gawk at tie-stubs hanging from the ceiling. Better to go two more turns down the highway, until you get to the former stage coach stop opposite the old wooden water tower. Here you will find some of the tastiest steaks allowed by law, as well as super-flavorful, fall-off-the-bone pork ribs, pork chops and chicken. Don't expect these cowpokes to know how to made a good salad (lettuce didn't exactly thrive on the range, you know), but they do an admirable job with buns, bakers, and beans. And you'll be amazed how good an old-fashioned hot apple pie tastes with a scoop of cinnamon swirl ice cream as you watch the moon rise over the mountains.
27500 N. Alma School Pkwy, Scottsdale, 480-585-7277.
Richardson's - BLD, $7-$15+
Like stepping into a restaurant in old Santa Fe, the food here is hot (but doesn't have to be spicy hot). Chamayo Chicken; Pork, Cheese, Smoked Turkey or Beef Tenderlion Rellenos; and Carne Adovada all are fabulous, and very filling. If the wait is too long here, try their more intimate Dick's Bar & Restaurant around the corner for the same great cuisine.
1582 E. Bethany Home Road, Phoenix, 602-265-5886. Fax 602-241-3354.
The Roosevelt - D, $4-$9+, closed Mon.
A cozy cottage with a lively crowd, Matt Pool (of Matt's Big Breakfast fame) has another winner with this cold beer (a dozen artisan brews on tap) and fine wine endeavor that just opened last week. "Snacks" are served in all the little nooks and crannies both indoors and out, and there's a communal table in the back room where you're all but guaranteed to meet someone who will be the topic of conversation for many weeks to follow. The eclectic menu runs from a Classic Shrimp Cocktail to Franks and Beans, with such goodies as a Big Fat Pretzel, Salads, Sandwiches (and a Grilled Cheese Sammie and Tomato Soup combo), a Cheese Platter and even a plate of sliced sugar-cured Ham and (three cage-free deviled) Eggs in between.
816 N. 3rd St.; 602-254-2561.
Rumbi Island Grill - LD, $6-$8
Next time you have an hour or so for a fast lunch, head over to Rumbi Island Grill to soak up their Hawaiian atmosphere and authentic fare. Start off with Bahama (oops, wrong island) Mama Tortilla (in Hawaii?) Soup, then proceed with Jamaican (wrong ocean) Jerk Chicken Sandwich, Salad or Rice Bowl — or, perhaps the Calypso Spinach Salad. They do have very tasty Luau Pork, and to their credit, the Entree does come with the obligatory two scoops of white rice and one of macaroni salad. They even add a scoop of Asian Slaw, a bow to a major Hawaiian influence and western gluttony, and brown rice is a thoughtful option. Other meats include steak and shrimp, while veggies and tofu will placate the non-carnivores. Since they just opened, we expect rapid improvement in all sectors (except maybe geography), but the food already is quite palatable. Service is semi-self, and their part, so far, seems very disorganized. Speed up your lunchtime adventure by phoning or faxing in your order, especially for take-out.
4280 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602-224-0092.
Scott's Generations - BL; $3.95 - $16.95
I get into these wild food moods where I'll wake up and have a craving for something. It's usually pretty specific and one morning it was corned beef. Sounds crazy, but I won't be satisfied until I give into my cravings. I wasn't hungry for just any corned beef, it had to be Boar's Head brand, and aside from a few grocery stores the only place you can get Boar's Head is a good delicatessen. I knew just where to go Scott's Generations.
Situated between an Ace Hardware and a Basha's, this hardly seems the spot for a tasty sandwich. But they serve up massive sandwiches with thick piled meat on your choice of bread and they have choices. I ordered Scott's Perfect Reuben-Reuben ($11.50). It's so tall you can't get your mouth around it, stuffed with corned beef, swiss cheese and sauerkraut, then grilled to a crispy buttery goodness.
When the server set a sandwich in front of me, my eyes widened. It was a thing of beauty. As I managed my sandwich for the first bite, I felt the wafts of hot corned beef beckoning. My craving was quickly satisifed. Ordering a side of Russian dressing to dunk my fries into may sound odd, but after one dip I think you'll agree, it's perfectly natural.
For the health conscious, Scott's offers lighter fare such as salads, soup and half sandwiches. But I don't go to Scott's to eat light, I go to Scott's eat well. - Alexander Cowan
5555 N. Seventh St ., Phoenix, 602.277.5662, www.scottsgenerations.com
Sportsman's Fine Wines & Spirits - LD, $7-$12
Tucked inside this exemplary purveyor of extraordinary wines and liquors is a cool retreat from the harsh outside world. Employing the finest of ingredients from prestigious local — as well as international — sources to assemble a small but select group of sandwiches, salads, and cheese platters, it is no surprise that this nearly surreptitious eatery attracts an upper crust clientele. Here Parma Prosciutto, Scottsdale Honey Mustard (wait 'til you taste this one!), Espressions Coffee Roastery and Willo Bakery are de rigueur simply because they're the best available. Be it Hummus, Bruschetta, a gloriously elemental Tomato Mozzarella Salad or Maitre de Fromage Selections (your own selection of gourmet cheese and pate, with guidance from their knowledgeable staff optional), you're bound to be delighted. All nine of the sandwiches are winners, but my faves are Wendy's Salmon, Scottish smoked salmon with crème fraiche, thin cucumber slices and a squirt of lime; Michael's Panini with Parma prosecution, cheddar, tomato, basil and Scottsdale honey mustard; and Les Halles, Madrange ham topped with sweet grilled onions under a melt of Gruyere cheese with a slather of Dijon. All come with a salad of fancy greens and tomato bits tossed in an entrancing vinaigrette, and a side of salty black olives. Additionally, there is a seven-fingered handful of meat and cheese platters, employing favorites such as Soppressata, Coppa, Mousse Truffle Pate and Pate Mediterranean paired with chic French Explorateur, Chaumes, St. Nectaire and St. Andre, Drunken Goat, Manchego and Grafton Cheddar cheeses, among others. Look for the likes of cornichons, mixed nuts, imported olives, nonpareil capers and apple pear chutney to complete these alluring platters, which run from $18 to $25 and easily would make a fine meal for four. A coffee bar and an extraordinary wine bar with "the Valley's best selection of wines by the glass and by the taste," complete this affable picture.
3205 East Camelback Rd., Phoenix, 602-955-7730. Fax 602-955-7739.
Stacy's Smokehouse - LD, $4.50-$9.50, Closed Sun.
"New Times' loss is Echo's gain," the headline should read. For the few unaware, that means that Stacy's, which used to be across the street from the weekly tabloid has just moved to within a mile of the offices of that gorgeous glossy bi-weekly magazine, Echo. Traffic-wise, it should be an excellent move for the smokehouse with the motto "MMM NOW THAT'S GOOD EATING." What you'll find here are lip smackin' Rib Tips and both Beef and Pork Ribs, Turkey and Ham, among others, to pair up with the likes of fresh home-cooked Cabbage, Yams, Greens, or Red Beans and Rice. Sandwiches include Pork, BBQ Beef Brisket, Chicken and a Hot Link: all are under five dollars! Fried Gizzards are no longer on the menu, but with a day's notice, Stacy will whip up a batch of the best in town. Be sure to include a Peach Cobbler or Sweet Potato Pie in your plans.
1650 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix; 602-230-6724.
Stax Burger Bistro - LD, $3-$8
Remember Ibiza, that cute restaurant run by Tom and Mark (now of Fez, Ticoz and Switch) that served those delicious tapas? Well, the guys from The Breakfast Club and The Bungalow thought they needed three in a row (think Monopoly), so they bought Ibiza and turned it into Stax, an unusual burger joint that serves Turkey, Lamb, Buffalo, Ostrich, Salmon and Veggie patties along with the more traditional Beef burgers. What makes it even more fun is the fact that these beauties are only about three or so ounces apiece (and priced $4 and $5 for exotic combos, $3-$5 solos). You can build your own with various cheeses, toppings, Aiolis, Tapenades, Chutneys and Relishes, for two-bits each (including such exotics as Pesto Aioli, Peach/Mint/Mango Chutney, Apple Bacon, Guacamole, and the like). Foie Gras is also available, but at $5. Of the sides ($4), the Short Rib Baked Beans are terrific; we enjoyed the SW Corn Off the Cobb Salad ($8), though we had to toss the ribbons of roasted corn relish, black beans, avocado, Monterrey jack and cheddar cheeses into the avocado buttermilk dressing, and had a nice basket of crunchy cornmeal batter-fried Rings ($3, also Totz and Sweet Pots). Our favorite burger? The Lamb with melted provolone, butter lettuce, topped with a peach/mint/mango chutney, and finished with pretty pink pickled shallot rings and chopped chives. For dessert ($5 each) we shared a funky version of Strawberry Shortcake, but I dare say the eye candy around the room was better. Next time we'll try the Butterscotch Creme Brulee.
4400 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-946-4222.
Stockyards Restaurant - LD, $7-$19+, Lunch Mon.-Fri.
An old fixture with a new face, it still takes cajones to eat the Calf Fries — at least the first time. Repeat offenders should appreciate that they are readily available at lunch and dinner. This Phoenix landmark still has that old cattlemen's aura, and beef is still king.
5009 E. Washington St., Phoenix, 602-273-7378.
Sugar Bowl - L, late D, $4-$7
What's pink and white, pink and white, and pink and white? The Sugar Bowl, of course! And it's been that way (and a Scottsdale landmark) since former Mayor Sam was knee-high to a grasshopper. Naturally, it's had a few face-lifts in its existence, but the color theme has survived every hue and cry. Nor has the menu changed much over the years, although cracked wheat bread and similar trendy touches have been added. The meat loaf, one of the signature sandwiches, still is anchored firmly in its section, along with such traditional ones as ham salad and cream cheese with sliced stuffed green olives. And what would one of the soups or salads or fruit bowls be without the Sugar Bowl's famous Nut Bread with Cream Cheese. To many folks, however, the real reason to come here is for the ice cream. Sure, there's a great assortment of sodas, shakes, malts and floats, all made with premium Dreyer's, but the big and gooey combos are on what its reputation has been made. How about the three-scoop banana split (bananas are healthy, don't you know), with lots of syrup and nuts (nuts are healthy, too)? So, eat at the Sugar Bowl often — if for no other reason than just for the health of it.
4005 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-946-0051.
Sun Up Brewing (formerly Sonora Brewhouse) - LD, $7-$14
"Great Beer, Great Service and Great Food" is their motto, and it pretty much covers most of the bases here. A cute little cottage venue with a delightful patio and cozy Brewer's Den amongst the fermenting giant kegs describes the rest. Start with a quesadilla (loaded, of course), followed with a Sonora Fajita Salad or an East Side Sonora Soaked (in their own Brewer's Den Amber) Bratwurst with sweet sauteed onions, sauerkraut and homemade beer mustard on a French baguette. The Homemade Bread Pudding with whiskey caramel sauce is far more than an afterthought.
322 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-279-8909. www.sonorabrewhouse.com.
T-Bone Steak House - D, $12-$20+
Of all the old West-style steak houses, this one is the closest from downtown to gallop out to, and the most authentic (least touristy) in town. As a bonus, once you get up that hill and turn around, there is a spectacular view of the Valley from the White Tanks to the Superstitions, with the cluster of skyscrapers plunked right in the middle. Fortunately, the view is not only from the parking lot, but extends throughout the restaurant through a bank of picture windows. If your timing allows, the ultimate plan is to get there just before sunset for one of the best shows in town. This place is popular with the deputies of the Sheriff's Department, who obviously know a good piece of meat when they see it. Actually, the food here is darned good by anyone's standards — unless, of course, you're a vegetarian! Chicken eaters only get one choice, but, luckily, the mesquite-grilled bird happens to be done skillfully. But, beefeaters are king, and this joint has the steaks to prove it. I like the Porterhouse because one side is a tasty sirloin and the other a tender filet, plus there's enough for a meal the next day. The "bar" part of the accompanying "salad bar" is practically grounds for libel, but the cowboy style beans are tasty vittles. Coming in a few weeks: Mesquite Grilled Salmon and Corn on the Cob.
10037 S. 19th Ave. (S. slope of South Mountain), Phoenix, 602-276-0945.
Tom's Tavern & Restaurant - BLD, $6-$10+, closed Sat.-Sun.
Every downtown worth their salt has a Tom's Tavern of some sort or another. This one has been serving three meals a day to the business community on weekdays for 78 years (not at the same location, but within the downtown core), making it one of the oldest in town. The very traditional looking venue includes a full bar, dining room and small banquet room in back, and serves a typical variety of appetizers, sandwiches, salads and entrees, going beyond bar food, but staying far away from the experimental stratosphere. The Blue Plate Special of the day is always a good route to take, and they are real proud of their famous 1929 chili recipe. Their hot sandwiches (beef, turkey and meat loaf) are delicious, and they have a nice variety of burgers and melts, but I somehow more than not have to have my Carolina Pulled BBQ Chicken Sandwich (they use a super tasty mustard-based sauce), topped with coleslaw and served with the best (they even proclaim them as that) curly fries you've ever had, or nine other choices for sides. Be sure to save some room for a martini sundae, which is tasty without making you tipsy.
2 North Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-257-1688. www.tomstavernphoenix.com.
Two Hippies Dropped Out of College and Opened Up a Pizzaria - Whew, what a name, eh? - LD, $9, Monday-Saturday
Well it's finally open and it looks to be promising, with a few things to work out.
Hippies has loads of wings, $6 for a dozen. There are so many varieties, it's hard to make a choice. We went with the Spicy BBQ and the Garlic Parmesan. The wings were killer, sauced up nice and sloppy and perfectly tender. You also get a ton of carrots and ranch dressing.
One of the super things about this place is the pricing. The 12" pizzas are $7 for either paper-thin or hand tossed.
But I'm not a fan of the pizza, well, not yet anyway. I have to cut them some slack since they're still new.
We ordered two pizzas, a sausage and a cheeseburger. They were hefty with ample toppings. The cheeseburger pizza was piled high with tasty cheese, fresh tomatoes and ground beef.
The bready crust was tender, though for me a pizza crust should be chewy and crispy. This was neither.
The downside was that the sausage tasted right out of a bag. This is where the price point finally factors in. I would have preferred a better quality sausage at a higher price, since this stuff tasted like the same meat a larger well known chain might use. The other problem is that the sauce was just tomato sauce and lacked seasoning, including salt.
There are only a few bar stools outside and no tables and chairs to eat in, so this is pretty much carry-away only. Located at Seventh Ave and Missouri, there is plenty of parking in the same center as D'licious Dishes, so getting in and out for your pick up orders is easy. The Hippies only accept cash, so those of us who only carry cards are out of luck. So unless you want to pay $1.50 to the ATM inside Hippies, swing by the bank.
I like the Two Hippies Pizzaria, though it's just ordinary and not much different from a chain - Alexander Cowan
5341 N. Seventh Ave., Phoenix, 602-265-3604
Village Tavern - L (late) & D ($8-20)
I would like to say the Village Tavern is unique, but there are at least seven others at present, scattered throughout the U.S. — mostly below the 37th parallel — and more on the drawing board. Nevertheless, this clubby yet classy and charming, cozy, comfortable and cosmopolitan, chic, casual and cultured eatery and bar doesn't have franchise written all over it.
Why do folks flock to this bar-cum-eatery, when some of its neighbors go wanting? The food is consistently top-rate, the variety is amazing and the prices are quite reasonable — especially considering all of the above.
With all the tempting appetizers offered, a simple solution to decision-making is to get the Small Plate Sampler — two luscious Crab Cakes, Eggroll, Calamari and Bruschetta, with four differently flavored sauces ($14.95).
Flatbreads are similar to pizzas, but with a lot thinner and much crispier base. The wood oven pizzas have an advantage over the flatbreads (my new favorite toppings carrier) — the management states on the menu "feel free to watch your pizza being made."
At lunchtime — and even some nights for dinner — a sandwich really hits the spot. Anything here with Tavern in the name is certain to be a winner. The Tavern House Salad proves the point with thick dices of applewood-smoked bacon buoying up a stellar medley of seasonal fresh greens, mushrooms, sweet onions, tomatoes and bleu cheese crumbles, all in a Tavern (what did I tell you?) Vinaigrette.
Perfect pastas are no challenge for this restaurant either. The Penne and Sweet Italian Sausage and Blackened Chicken Alfredo are delicious.
With everything coming in such generous portions, you really have to be a dedicated dessert eater to do this category any justice. Key Lime Pie is served all over the Valley, but few really use key limes, and even fewer are the real thing, from filling to crust. In a blind taste test with the best from the Keys, I'm certain the Tavern's version would be right up there with the local winners.
You know, when you think about it, Hillary was right. For a first-rate meal, sometimes "It Takes a Village."
8787 N. Scottsdale Road (Suite 234, in The Shops at Gainey Village), Scottsdale, 480-951-6445. Fax 480-951-6441.
Waldo's BBQ - LD, $5-$12
With a slo-o-o-o-w 24 hour smoke job, all of their meats are fall-off-the-bone tender and decidedly smoky. Sandwiches include the usual plus a very unusual BBQ Burro. Ribs and chicken are still juicy, but are aided by a tangy sauce. The sides show some imagination, with horseradish mashed spuds and deep fried corn-on-the-cob. Bottomless iced tea comes in a huge Mason jar.
4500 E. Main St., Mesa, 480-807-8646.
Who's Ya Daddy's Bar B-Q - LD, $4.50-$10+, closed Sun. and Mon
A tiny hole-in-the-wall real southern BBQ joint with a good smoker but a rather one-dimensional sauce. That's okay, the ribs really don't need any sauce anyway, the hot link is real tasty, and the beef and chicken are terrific, especially in the $1.50 tacos, 2 or 3 of which can make a darned good lunch. Tasty beans, but no slaw. Pineapple upside down cake is sweet and gooey.
1619 E. Washington St., 602-252-3118.