Without Reservations (More Reviews by Category)
Restaurant Reviews by Foodie Bear

Phú Thành Restaurant

On a cold winter day, the craving for hot comfort in a bowl makes a person do strange things. It found me driving to a kind of shady part of Mesa, while braving the cold winds in search of a perfect bowl of phò.

My new holy grail of Vietnamese restaurants is Phú Thành, located in a rundown strip mall on Southern and Extension. A good Vietnamese restaurant is usually kind of old, slightly dingy and super cheap, and in this case all the basics were met and exceeded.

Phú Thành is a no-frills kind of place. Inside it screams for a makeover. Though clearly from another era, it is clean and functional. The service is friendly and the kitchen is fast.

There might be a slight familiarity here the owners of Phú Thành and my favorite central Vietnamese joint Da Vàng are brothers. The menus of the two places are almost identical, and they offer a lot.

The No. 50 Chà Giò ($2) is what good Vietnamese cooking is all about. Two golden-brown, crunchy egg rolls filled with shrimp and pork are hands on and interactive. Served with a plate of lettuce leaves and herbs, you wrap the egg roll in lettuce and garnish with mint and cilantro, then dunk them into the house-made n?òc châm, a sweet and spicy dipping sauce. The fresh lettuce and herbs cut through the richness of the egg roll, which on its own might be slightly oily.

Applying the same hands-on approach, the No. 54 Bánh Xèo ($3.95) replaces the rolls with a pan-fried rice flour crepe. The exterior is slightly crispy, while the soft interior is filled with shrimp and bean sprouts. Of all the Bánh Xèo I've tried, this version is by far my favorite. It's full of flavor and texture.

Phó (pronounced like the bad word) is not only fun to say, but fun to eat. Eight versions of the noodle soup are offered, from traditional beef to chicken. Pay attention to the menu description when ordering since you might wind up with unfamiliar cuts of meat.

I'm adventurous and love the textures of beef tendon and tripe, so I was in heaven when my steaming bowl of No. 1 Phò Phú Thành ($4.95) arrived. The broth was incredibly fragrant with clove and star anise. This really should be made into an air freshener.

Along with the condiments at the table, the soup comes with a plateful of basil and bean sprouts. But also include limes and chilis to add texture, flavor and depth to your pho experience.

For something hearty and comforting, the No. 7 Mì Bò Kho ($4.75) is a bowl of chewy egg noodles filled with a beef stew. Tender pieces of stewed carrots and beef grace the rich and complex flavors of the dark and tasty brew.

If you're carbohydrate loading, order a slab of French bread to absorb all of the bone-warming elixir at the bottom of the bowl.
For food like this, a little shady is worth the drive.

Modern Burger

Modern Burger is a little blue burger window inside Scottsdale Fashion Square, alongside the latest Sam Fox venture, Modern Steak.

I visited three times before I found Modern Burger open, and on that visit the place quickly closed up as they called my name and I grabbed the bag of food.

There are five items on the menu. Orders are placed at the window.

On this visit, the window was crowded with four teen-somethings who refused to move as the staff looked on helplessly. Finally, a look was thrown in their direction and two of them moved while the others continued to hang out.

After ordering, customers can sit at one of the two communal tables and wait to be called. The food is served in a paper sack, ala fast food style.

While I waited, one of the staff approached me and asked if I needed ketchup. As I shook my head and replied, he slammed down several packets of ketchup and hustled off. There is nothing like sharp and attentive service to make you feel valued.

But I have to say that the food was pretty darn tasty, starting with the Chopped Turkey Salad ($5.75). While it did come pre-made out of a refrigerator, the freshness was still present. Chopped lettuce, roasted turkey and corn, tomato, cucumber, cheddar and boiled egg, while fresh, were all sadly under dressed. A small container of dressing was provided, but since the place had closed, more could not be requested.

The Sliders ($5.75) came two to an order and are, as you'd expect, two small burgers. They're served on a house-made bun, which is more like focaccia bread rather than something more traditional. The beef was cooked medium rare and was tender and juicy. In fact, it was so juicy that the lack of napkins became apparent.

The top-notch house fries were perfectly seasoned on the salty side and had a nice toothsome crunch.

For dessert, Modern Burger offers ice cream sandwiches ($2.75), but once more we were denied since the place had closed.

The food was tasty but, with strange hours and crude service, I can't understand why they even opened. The place seems more like an afterthought.

Toast Breakfast Boutique

Being honest and approachable, the newly-opened Toast Breakfast Boutique seems to be just what the Coronado neighborhood needed.

Located next to where Drip Coffee Lounge was housed, this place is quirky and comfortable. But leave your laptops at home. There is a no laptop rule, which is actually pretty cool.

Toast only has a handful of tables, so imagine how ticked off you might get waiting an hour for a table because someone is just sitting there surfing the Internet. Besides, it's so laid back here, I'd rather relax and enjoy the vibe.

Ingredients here are sourced as local as possible, including bread from M.J. Bread and coffee from Xanadu Coffee Co. The chalkboard menu is simple and, with only a few items, it's easily navigated.

With bread from M.J., I knew this was going to be great. Starting off with the Fig Jam and Mascarpone Cheese on Marbled Rye Toast ($4); the kitchen hit the ground running. Each ingredient worked so well naturally together, I'd order this every time.

Roasted Tomatoes with Mozzarella Cheese on Cibatta Toast ($6) was as good as it gets though for breakfast.

Toast also serves what they call the N.Y.C. sandwich. Completely custom from the bread up, you choose your egg, meats, cheese and veggies. I tried the croissant with medium cooked egg, bacon, tomato, spinach and cheddar cheese ($8.50).

On the first bite, I was surprised when I realized that they actually cooked the egg medium. The yolk was just slightly runny and the whites completely solid. Whoever is cooking in the kitchen knows how to cook an egg. Next time though, I'll hold the tomato. While tasty on its own, I think the sandwich would have been better off without it since it dulled the flavors slightly.

I also tried the ciabatta with hard egg, bacon, onion and Havarti cheese ($8.50). Once again the egg was perfectly cooked and all the flavors came through. The ciabatta was chewy with a light crispy crunch. This combo was fantastic.

Being friendly, approachable, interesting and sincere are all qualities that I admire and try to live by. Toast Breakfast Boutique, not only seems to share those qualities, but never pretends to be something it's not.

Mini Reviews

Tuck Shop

Tuck Shop is a culmination of various elements that I love good design, art and great food.

From a large group of friends to a romantic dinner for two, Tuck Shop has something for everyone.

The idea is to share plates among a group of friends, though you can easily put together a traditional three-course meal if that is what suits you. The word to best describe the menu would be eclectic, with Creole, French and Spanish twists. There are three menu sections to choose from: Start, Smaller Plates and For Sharing. The menu is accessible and interesting.

Starting things out, Patatas Bravas ($5) are classic tapas. However, the Tuck version turns potato cubes into long thick planks served alongside two dipping sauces.

Working into the Smaller Plates menu, the Mac and Cheese with Crispy Prosciutto, topped with breadcrumbs and lobster ($12) was sublimely creamy and tender.

For sharing, the Citrus-Brined Fried Chicken ($17) was a sight to behold. Alongside was a large white cheddar waffle, slathered in maple butter and a bowl of pork-laden collard greens.

The stars are aligned for the Tuck Shop. With all of their elements in near perfect cohesion, this is one of the coolest and freshest places to eat, drink and of course, share.

Dinner only; ($5-18), Tuesday - Saturday 5-10 p.m., 2245 N. 12th Street, Phoenix. Phone: 602 354 2980. Information: www.tuckinphx.com.

Quick Takes

"Love is in the air, everywhere I look around." - John Paul Young

What to do for Valentine's Day? Something romantic, maybe something fun. Flowers are nice, and who doesn't love chocolate? But when it comes to Valentine's Day, I'm all about being wined and dined.

Several romantic eateries around the Valley are offering multi-course prix fix menus. My advice is to get a reservation sooner than later, as the best times often go quickly.

J&G Steakhouse at The Phoenician Resort
6000 E. Camelback Road, Scottsdale
www.jgsteakhousescottsdale.com

Let love lift you up where you belong at J&G Steakhouse, a great place for a romantic and unforgettable Valentine's dinner.

Enjoy a gourmet five-course meal for $68 per person, featuring some of J&G's most memorable and romantic dishes, including Oysters from the East and West Coasts, Slowly-Cooked Salmon, Grilled Filet Mignon and the original Warm Chocolate Cake with Caramel Ice Cream.

The menu, along with a full a la carte menu, will be offered Feb. 12, 13 and 14. To make reservations, call (480) 214-8000 or visit www.opentable.com.

T. Cooks at The Royal Palms Resort
5200 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix
www.royalpalmshotel.com

Endless love is something you feel for T.Cooks, one of the most romantic restaurants in the Valley. Offering an appetizer, entrée and dessert at $70 per person ($35 additional for wine pairings) might seem pricey, but the quality and service are unmatched.

Highlights include appetizer selections like Grilled Iceberg Wedge Salad with balsamic grilled onions, candied walnuts and blue cheese dressing to Smooth Mushroom Soup with a truffle and Fontina Grilled Cheese Mini-Sandwich.

There are many opulent entree choices, such as Butter Poached Maine Lobster with sour cream and caviar ravioli and asparagus and Grilled Beef Tenderloin with bacon, scallion, Cheddar Twice-Baked potato and Mushroom Tomato Gratin.

Finish with the Le Cupidon: Caramel Cheesecake layered with pineapple, lemon creme, panna cotta in a martini glass should definitely get you and your lover in the mood.

This menu will be available for dinner service on Feb. 12, 13 and 14. Visit www.opentable.com for reservations.

Alexander “Foodie Bear” Cowan can be reached at foodiebear@echomag.com or find him on Twitter at www.twitter.com/FoodieBear.

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