KEY:
B = breakfast
L = lunch
D = dinner
N = late night
SV = special value
Prices ranges shown are for a single entree

LD, $4-$6, SV
99 Ranch Market
In the stunning Chinese Cultural Center, now home of the upcoming Festival, there is a sensational Oriental market called 99 Ranch. Inside the market is a cafeteria-style restaurant area where a variety of authentic and tourist-type foods are served at outrageously low prices. Convenient (but too few) Formica tables are available for assembling and devouring your treasures. The steam tables offer at least a dozen entrees daily, usually more. Items can be had individually, but it's more fun to sample several — and at a combination of three for fewer than five dollars, how can you lose? It even comes with soup (usually a simple chicken broth with egg and tofu and a sprinkling of veggies, or a quite credible hot and sour) and fried rice (or pan-fried noodles for an extra buck). Besides the popular mainstays, typically included for variety are such dishes as Spiced Pork with Taro, Fish Balls with Three Peppers and Black Beans, Duck with Five-Spice Sauce, Breaded Pork Chop with Tomato Sauce, and Yui-Shan Eggplant. Fried Hot and Spicy Shrimp with Stuffed Tails, Sticky Rice in Banana Leaf, Beef with White Radish, and Pork Hock with Pickled Baby Onions, Ginger and Star Anise are others to look for. Adjacent to this is a BBQ section with tempting Ducks, Chickens (including a Steam Salted and a Soy Sauce version) and Pork Ribs and Tenderloins displayed to be sold by the pound. Pork Belly and Tongue are other possibilities for the more adventurous. While on safari, go to the next case, a refrigerated assortment of prepackaged portions of side vegetables and relishes from Taiwan Express, which also serves hot soups and entrees. For something different try their BBQ Squid Soup and a Beef Pancake. Having ventured this far, why not go all the way with a made-to-order slush? Among the selections are Grass Jelly, Barley, Green Bean, Taro, Pineapple, Love Jade, Lychee and Longan. Or, try the latest craze sweeping the West Coast: Iced Tea, Green Tea, Coffee, or Plum Juice with Boba (fat beads of chewy tapioca added to the drink, and retrieved through a special wide straw provided. If you're in the market for an adventure, 99 Ranch is the one to be in.
668 N. 44th Street, Phoenix, 602-225-2288.

LD, $4-$8, Closed Mon.
Aloha Kitchen
Aloha, indeed. The talented and friendly staff here makes you feel welcome. You'll leave satiated. And you'll get an ocean of change from a $10 bill! What more could a person want? The atmosphere is somewhat perfunctory, but well prepared food — some of it quite foreign — is the specialty. Most of it comes from the Hawaiian or Japanese islands, China or Korea. You don't need to wear a lei to fall in love with the imported noodles called Saimin, which can be ordered in a shrimp soup base or four other (drier) versions, including fried and vegetarian. I don't know how authentic a Waikiki Burger or Island Hot Wings are, but I do know they don't serve fresh charbroiled Salmon basted with pulehu marinade at our local McDonalds. Nor can you find Kalua Pig with Cabbage, Lomi Salmon, and Chicken Long Rice, as you do on Wednesdays and Saturdays here, and for such a measly price! With goodies like Bulkogi from Korea; Chinese Chicken Salad, Char Siu Bao and Fried Won Ton from that red place; and Teriyaki and Katsu representing Japan, the Pacific Rim awaits you, and bids you your just dessert, a cool and refreshing Coconut Pudding.
2950 S. Alma School Road, Mesa, 480-897-2451.

LD, $7-$15+
Bamboo Club
This is the place to go when you want good Chinese food — or Japanese, or Korean, or Thai, or even Hawaiian dishes! (Even the bar serves drinks from around the globe.) You want it woked? They do it. And grilling, frying, barbecuing, steaming, and sizzling — there's something here for everyone. Favorite dishes include Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad; Chardonnay Steamed Green Mussels with Ginger and Green Onion; Mixed BBQ Platter Hong Kong Style; Singapore Style Rice Noodles with Curry, Shrimp & BBQ Pork; and Lemon Grass Beef. Their misted patio is a delightful place to spend an evening. Not open for lunch on Sundays.
8624 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale, 480-998-1287. Fax 998-8440.

LD, $4-$8
Best Hong Kong Dining
With a menu nearly as long and broad as that of the Gourmet House of Hong Kong, little is left to the imagination, even for the adventurous. How about Bean Thread & Vegetables, or Salted Fish & Chicken w/Tofu, or Duck Feet & Black Mushroom, or Catfish & Fresh Garlic, or even Squids & Eggplant in Chinese Preserved Shrimp Sauce? And those are just a few of the Hot Pot combinations. With over 235 dishes, you're bound to find your favorites, too. For noodle lovers there's Chow Fun, Chow Mein, Lo Mein, Rice Noodles, and Won Tons with a plethora of ingredients and styles. The decor is sort of gilded cafeteria, with a great display of barbecued ducks, pork, chickens, etc., just waiting to be chopped up in your favorite dish. And the prices are so low, you just might feel like you're in China.
1116 S. Dobson Road, Mesa, 480-655-8262.

LD, $5-$6
Blue Earth Chinese Buffet
Not all Chinese buffets are created equal. This clean and friendly staffed eatery is what a Chinese buffet should be. All the dishes are clearly labeled, made with fresh ingredients, and replenished often. Yes, there are the usual dishes that are de rigueur for the genre, but this buffet also includes such entities as Rainbow Fish (is this the gay national fish?). If I lived in this area, I would visit Blue Earth far more often than once in a blue moon.
350 E. University Drive, Mesa, 480-898-8989

LD, $4-$7+, closed Sat.-Sun.
The Blue Fin
Little more than a stand with a patio in front, this petite place has been serving midtown folks fast but tasty Japanese dishes for at least a couple of decades. Quality ingredients give this eatery the edge over the chains, and they do serve a few dishes hard to find elsewhere (try their Panko Fish with Wasabi Aioli, for instance). Even a simple Miso soup here has lots of miso, tofu cubes and wakame (a bright green crunchy seaweed), and we particularly like the Coconut Shrimp and Oyako Chicken. The adventurous shouldn't pass up the Mushipan (Japanese cheesecake), unless it's to try the Mochi (a sticky rice dessert with sweet red beans — not everyone's cup of tea, but something you could get to crave over a period of time).
1401 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-254-3171. www.phxbluefin.com.

LD, $4-$11
Canton Dragon
When they said go west, young man, they weren't searching for great Chinese food. This decidedly dressed-down restaurant, however, serves dishes far better than its location would indicate. The Hot and Sour Soup is practically awesome, and General Tso's Chicken in no slouch, either. Seafood lovers will be impressed with Seven Stars and a Moon, a visual and a gustatory delight.
7307 W. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 623-846-6125.

LD, $4-$7, SV, closed Mon.
Canton Wong
This miniscule restaurant is not exactly the ultimate gourmet destination, but it's not in Scottsdale, either. For a westside Chinese restaurant, it holds its own, foodwise, quite well. And the prices are so low they look like they've been transferred from a menu in Shanghai. Maria, the owner, is as pleasant and accommodating as can be. Raymond, her son, is one of the delivery drivers for a rather large turf. Delivery is free on orders over $12, and from the hustle and bustle of drivers (and customers for pick-up), more goes out the door than is consumed on the small premises. You can't go wrong with the Hot and Sour, Wor Wonton, or Sizzling Rice Seafood soups. Dinner items of note include Szechuan Beef, Chow Sam Sin (Chicken, Shrimp, and Beef), Yui Shan Spicy Pork, Bean Curd with Lobster Sauce, Moo Shu Shrimp and Beef Chow Fun. As an added incentive, they have a little gift area with jade, Chinese jewelry, and real pearls at peasant prices.
6721 W. Bethany Home Road, Glendale, 623-848-0053.

LD, $6-$12+
China Chili

While the benefits of a light rail system carving its way through the Valley are mostly obvious solely in the long haul or grand scheme of things, one immediate side effect of the crippling construction is the development of new pockets of shopping and dining. One of said “pockets” is developing around Third Street and Flower and it is starting with one of the best and fastest Chinese restaurants in Central Phoenix.
Luncheon Specials ($6.95 - $7.65), which include soup, a veggie egg roll and jasmine rice, are pretty mainstream to keep the selection relatively simple. And its five chefs and four helpers keep the dishes coming out at an amazingly fast pace. They do include local signature dishes of Orange Chicken and House Special Chicken with a pleasant trace of chili (after all, that’s this restaurant’s surname!) to waken up your taste buds.
The thing that really separates China Chili from other restaurants is their quality of ingredients. In the House Special Chicken, a moist and flavorful whole breast (rather than overcooked strips) is cooked with a crunchy but delicate batter crust, then thinly sliced and served in a knockout garlic sauce.
As you would predict at an eatery that pays homage to the chili pepper, the Kung Pao (Chicken, Fish or Shrimp) is exemplary. Two noteworthy and vegetarian dishes that you don’t find on many other noontime menus: the Sichuan Style String Beans, quickly blistered in the wok and tossed with a scrumptious dark chili garlic sauce, and the MaPo Tofu, a contrast of cool soft bean curd (with carrots and peas) and spicy chili bean sauce, should make this a destination restaurant for all serious Sinophiles.
All the lunch items are available at dinner, but many other wonderful dishes are added to the nighttime fare. We found nothing wanting — or unusual — with the Crab Cheese Puffs, Fried Golden “Prawns” or Pot Stickers, but would rather skip these pedestrian tidbits in favor of something like the BBQ Pork Slices, here served in a zesty sauce that does not reek of Chinese five spice.
The Mongolian Beef had ginger and hot peppers to take it way up to the next level. Chicken in Phoenix Nest (deep-fried shredded potato) can be found in many Chinese restaurants around town, but this version has a much tastier (Beijing bean) sauce, lots of fresh mushrooms, and a lighter, more pastry-like nest.
We also enjoyed the House Chow Fun (chicken, beef and shrimp), but felt a little more sesame oil would make it jump. We asked for it, sprinkled it on, tossed it about, and wow, what a wonderful difference! The Crispy Noodles (thin ones, like angel hair), Hong Kong Style, was magnificent as served, redolent of chicken, sweet scallops, squid, shrimp and al dente veggies, in a light, unobtrusive sauce. And we could go on for days. But try it for yourself if you haven’t already. And if you haven’t returned since their move to this developing corridor, shame on you! Whoever says all the truly good places are dive-y, clearly haven’t been to China Chili. 
302 E. Flower St. (northeast corner at Third St.), Phoenix, 602-266-4463.

LD $4-$9, SV
China Rainbow
With the rash of building in the last decade, this part of the Valley can hardly be considered a frontier anymore. On the other hand, good oriental restaurants in the neighborhood are not a dime a dozen. When I first saw the name of this establishment, I though this might be a port in a storm. After tasting their wares, I do recommend it to stranded Sinophyles. Naturally, its very reasonable prices only add to the endorsement. The range of items is more limited than at some of the inner city's places, but there are a few dishes of unusual note, starting off with an appetizer of Szechwan-Style Wonton in Hot Sauce. The Garlic Shrimp are highly recommended, as is the Hunan Lamb. If you don't like your dishes spicy, try the crispest Szechwan Smoked Duck around. Pecan Shrimp is another winner for those with a chili aversion, and Canton Style Fish (filet) is great for diners who like fish but would rather not look their dinner in the eye. Several dishes mentioned are available as Luncheon Specials with soup, egg roll, fried wonton, fried rice and hot tea for ridiculously low prices.
6630 W. Cactus Road #102, Glendale, 623-878-2233.

LD, $4-$7, SV
Chino Bandido Takee-Outee
Or eatee-inee, the choice is yours. Your other basic choice is of the 13 Mexican and Chinese influenced toppings for your Rice Bowl (or bean bowl), Burrito or Quesadilla. Combinations are another way to go, like Jerk Chicken and Chile Relleno, Machaca and Egg Foo Yung, or Carnitas and Hengrenade Chicken. Consider the odd food combinations the only atmosphere here. Oh, I almost forgot about the Snickerdoodles!
15414 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-375-3639.

LD, $5-$8, SV, closed Sun.
Cyclo
Look for the cyclo (people-powered Vietnamese taxi, pronounced sea cloh) in front of this modest Chandler shop. Inside, vivacious Justina Duong tries to placate the hoards of waiting customers while putting out some of the best Vietnamese vittles this side of the Mekong Delta. Most every dish on the menu can be found at other restaurants around town, but somehow they all look and taste better here. Whatever her secret is, it certainly does work. This tiny, unpretentious eatery has begun to attract national attention, too, so getting seated between 5 and 9 (10 on weekends) usually means a half-hour to full hour wait — but, it's worth it! Your dream dinner might start off with Pork Short Ribs in Tamarind Glaze and Thai Basil, then progress to Chicken and Pineapple Curry with Kaffir Lime, Green Beans, Thai Basil and Jasmine Rice. Throw in some Stir Fried Bok Choy and Oyster Mushrooms with Fried Shallots and Fish Sauce and life could hardly be better — unless, of course, you have the Jasmine Crème Brûlee for the crowning finale! Another ethereal scenario might begin with their Green Papaya Salad with Shrimp, Peanuts and Mint, followed by Crispy Lemongrass Chicken with Chili, Garlic and Soy, served with Jasmine Rice and an order of Spicy Garlic Green Beans in Chili and Sweet Soy. Cap it all with a dish of Fresh Asian Mango, Black Sticky Rice and Sweet Coconut Milk. Mmmmmm!
1919 W. Chandler Blvd., Suite 2 (SE corner at Dobson), Chandler, 480-963-4490.

BLD, $4-$6, SV
Da Vang
This, the first Vietnamese cafe in the Valley, has been serving delicious soups and noodle dishes for more than a decade. When I first discovered this tiny storefront, there were no menus, nobody spoke the least bit of English, and I was the only Anglo in sight. I would wait until someone ordered something that looked good (fortunately, most everything did), point to it, and hope for the best. I never was disappointed. Still in the same location (but four times the size), there now are menus, some English is spoken, the patrons are multi-ethnic, and, amazingly, the prices are just a token amount higher. Meal-sized soups, the house specialty, come loaded with various meats (and obscure meat parts) and/or seafoods and noodles in large bowls accompanied with plates of bean sprouts, lettuce, jalapeños and exotic greens (and purples) for self-garnishing. The rice paper rolls stuffed with shrimp and pork with a spicy dipping sauce are great starters ($1.60/pair), and Vietnamese iced coffee w/condensed milk (in individual drip filters at your table) is de rigueur. All desserts ($1.50) are variations of rice and bean puddings, come in plastic glasses, and, unless your language skills are up to snuff, are point and hope.
4538 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-242-3575.

LD, $4-$5, SV
David Kwan's Chinese Buffet
There are far more Chinese buffets in the Valley than you could shake a chopstick at. What makes this one stand out is the addition of fresh vegetables to several of the dishes. One that I particularly look forward to, when available, is beef and zucchini in a black bean sauce. Everything here tastes fresh and freshly made, due to the quality ingredients and the frequency of replenishing the buffet dishes. Any dish on the menu may also be ordered individually — and all are very reasonable — but why would you order one dish when you may have a selection of a dozen for the same low price?
4245 W Dunlap Ave., Phoenix, 623-939-8538.

LD, $4
Day Day Buffet
A Chinese and Mexican buffet? This isn't the only one in town, but it is a pretty good one, especially for its Avenidas location. The South of the Border side is kinda limited, with tamales, enchiladas and a meaty carne con chile leading the way. Red Menudo, green chiles and tortilla chips and red salsa add some variety and color as well. The Oriental half (make that three-quarters) features the likes of egg rolls, hot and sour soup, pepper steak, Kung Pao chicken, pork chop suey, sesame chicken, fried fish, egg fu young, sweet & sour pork and chicken broccoli. It varies from day to day, perhaps the inspiration for the silly name.
3653 W. Van Buren, Phoenix, 602-278-0101.

LD, $4-$9, Closed Wed.
Diamond's
Chinese and Vietnamese dishes at rock bottom prices are what this Formica sterile restaurant specializes in. Half a Crispy Duck for under a fiver, super Barbecued Pork, Sizzling Rice Soup, and a paper menu with 30 authentic Chinese specialty dishes. Usually live Crabs and Lobsters, among others.
4402 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-263-8926.

LD, $7-$13, Closed Sun.
Dozo Japanese Cuisine
Some months ago an ordinary Chinese fast food joint quietly underwent a metamorphosis to become a striking Japanese butterfly. Dozo, with its large and friendly sushi bar, is devoted to a vast selection of the freshest Sashimi, Sushi and Maki Rolls, but also has a dining room where mostly Teriyaki, Tempura, Katsu and Udon dishes are served (of course the raw stuff can be ordered there as well). Show your pride and order the Rainbow Roll, a showy variety of colorful fish, or one of my favorites, the ugly but delicious Uni, or the wonderful Salmon Skin Roll. If you can't stomach the raw stuff but don't want to let on to others, order the Tamago and the Inari (they're an egg omelet and cooked bean curd) as if you're a regular. Other special dishes include Calamari and Octopus Cake, Tuna Tataki, BBQ Calamari, Salmon Teriyaki, Unaju and Chicken Karage.
4320 N. Miller Road, Scottsdale, 480-941-3838, www.sushidozo.com.

LD, $4-$10
Erawan Restaurant
The students at The American School of International Management (Thunderbird), themselves of international origin, know a good place when they find it. Erawan makes it easier by being right around the corner. But, within a Mark McGuire home run distance or not, they wouldn't flock there if the food weren't authentic and good. As an added bonus, the prices are right, too. Here you will find all the usual Thai dishes — as spicy or not, as you wish — but you won't find any off-the-wall items. One of my favorite starters is the Sausage Salad, the pork wiener being sweet and mild, mixed with cukes, green onions and touched with lime juice for a cool, sweet and tart mixture. A good soup to share is the Erawan Special Seafood Soup, a Thai classic, made spicy and sour with lemon grass and lime juice. Curries are an important part of this cuisine, and here they are prepared quite well, whether you prefer a medium spicy green with coconut milk to a hot red with shrimp and pineapple. Noodle lovers don't despair; the Paht Thai and a half-dozen others will soothe your soft spot. Want breakfast for dinner? The Erawan Omelette with ground pork, tomato and onion will fill the bill, although the only coffee you'll get here is the Thai version — iced, with sweetened condensed milk (or without, if you choose).
15615 N. 59th Ave., Glendale, 602-978-1641.

LD, $6-$14+, closed Sun.
Fate
Chef/owner Johnny commands the tiny kitchen in this kitschy cottage plunked right in the center of the arts district, serving stylized Asian-rim, with heavy emphasis on Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese, and little bits of Japanese, Hawaiian and American influence peeking out every so often. Hot and Sour Rice Soup, Hanoi Noodle Salad, House Dynamite, Spicy Saigon and Chinese Wok Fried Noodles are a few of their best dishes. Drink the milk from a whole coconut which has had the top whacked off, it's quite refreshing. Although the cafe is not open for lunch on Saturdays, their closing time on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is 3am!
905 N. 4th St., Phoenix, 602-254-6424.

LD $7.99-$10.99*
Fuji Buffet
In the old days, Chinese buffets were pretty common in the Valley … and so was their fare, most of the time. Then almost at once, we had an invasion of the super buffets, some with up to 150 items (no, they didn’t count each grain of rice separately!).
Now, with an emphasis on fastidiously fresh seafood and sushi, a younger and more enthusiastic ownership has, like the Phoenix Bird, risen from the (symbolic) ashes and blossomed into highly recommended Fuji Buffet. Actually the food selections are fewer than before, but all — and I do mean all — the selections we tried (with the exception of the salad and dessert dishes) were better than those same dishes prepared to order in most Asian restaurants.
There are various entrée dishes and some delightful complementary sides, such as savory Potstickers, buttery Sautéed Mushrooms, crisp Spring Rolls, Spaghetti (born in the Orient, then brought to Italy), tender stir-fried Green Beans and loaded Fried Rice — is what you mainly came for, and what they do best. Things like tender Roast Duck, massive fall-off-the-bone Beef Ribs with their tangy sauce, crispy panko Fried Chicken, Korean Short Ribs, Skewers of Beef or Chicken, and Mongolian Beef, just to name a few featured items that are not oriented toward the sea.
However, their tours de force are the denizens of the deep, from briny Oysters on the Half-Shell, sweet Crab Legs and Claws to crack open, and plump Boiled Shrimp to Sautéed Baby Octopus and rich Stuffed Prawns. Where else will you find Deep-Fried Lobster or giant Oysters prepared in a Black Bean Sauce? Mussels are served cooked on the half-shell or broiled with a creamy topping. Steamed Baby Clams are small but bursting with buttery flavor and worth the extra work.
If there is another Asian Buffet with its own Sushi Chef, I’m certainly not aware of it. If you’ve only had that stuff wrapped in clear plastic from the supermarket, this ultra-fresh, basically made to order selection is worlds apart. Remember, this is not a sushi bar with high prices for elaborate creations, but a part of a most reasonable price-fixed buffet, so the variety will be somewhat restrained. Not withstanding, the quality is impeccable.
Soft drinks and tea (Green, Jasmine or Oolong) are extra, but that’s to be expected when you get a fine variety of high quality dishes like this at such a reasonable price.
1575 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-604-1800.

L, $4-$10, SV
Great Wall Cuisine
Many places in the Valley serve well prepared Chinese food, but only a handful spends the big bucks to hire a Dim Sum Chef. Of this handful, the Great Wall is one of the best, not only for the quality of the little jewels, but for the great variety it serves (especially on weekends, when large Chinese families and friends make a social event of this midday meal). Before I go further — and you get the wrong idea — let me say this restaurant also has a full menu of very competently prepared regional dishes. Here we are commenting strictly on the Dim Sum, which, resting on two-tiered carts, are pushed down the aisles by well meaning waitresses who, unfortunately, practically have no knowledge of English at all. The diners choose small platefuls of one-or-two bite morsels, which usually come two or three to a plate. If it looks good, pick it, because the best description you are likely to get is one word, such as "pork," "shrimp," etc. Have patience. There may be as many as 50 or more selections rolling by, usually not more than a half-dozen on any one cart. The range of starring ingredients goes from beef stew to chicken feet (and from Almond Jell to Thousand Years Egg Pastry for the sweets). Among my favorites of the less exotics are the Pork Ribs with Black Beans, the Pan Fried Turnip Cakes, and the Mango Pudding for dessert. At the end of the meal, the plates are counted and the bill is tallied. Plates run from $1.90 to $4.50 per, depending on the contents, but it's very hard to run up a bill of $10 and not have a dragon bag to take home for a future meal.
5057 N. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-973-1112.

LD, $8-$20+
Hana
On Maui, the famous Road to Hana is known for its many curves and one-lane bridges, in addition to the outstanding scenery encountered along the way. In Phoenix, the road to Hana (assuming you're headed up Central and across on Camelback during light rail construction) probably has even more twists and turns than its Hawaiian counterpart, and surely many more potholes! That is, until December of next year (they say). At any rate, the destination is a small, unpretentious Japanese cafe that serves extremely well prepared dishes at somewhat elevated prices. There really is nothing too exotic on the menu, but everything they serve is top notch and their fish is so fresh you'd think it just jumped out of the water onto your plate. The Clams, Oysters and the Squid are great starters, and then make sure you pick one of the two soups (the Miso Shiru and the Osuimono — both are good selections) before going on to a lovely Noodle Entree or perhaps a pot of Hana Yasai Suki (like a vegetable Sukiyaki). Here they have a wide variety of Bento Box Lunches, and I enjoyed every bit of my Hana Bento ($14.25) with six pieces of silken sashimi, a big California roll, tempura with big fat shrimp and crunchy veggies, and some exotic pickled okra, lotus root, squash (tastes like sweet potato, only better) and a few more. Be forewarned, dinner dishes can go all the way up to $35.95.
5524 N. 7th Ave., 602-973-1238.

LD, $7-$15+
HoDoRi Korean Restaurant
Korean foods are probably the most distinct of all the Asian countries whose cuisines have been imported and popularized in the States. Almost all dishes listed come with an assortment of six to eight side dishes — the number and contents varying according to the whim of the chef — and rice. House Special Soft Tofu Soup, Pan-Fried Pancakes of Kimchee with Meat, Sam-Gyae-Tahng, Black Cod and Tofu Steaks with Korean Radishes and BBQ Short Ribs with Kalbi Sauce give you an idea of the range. Please be aware of the little pepper symbols on the menu — they're not kidding.
1116 S. Dobson Road, 480-668-7979.

LD, $5-$12
Hong Kong Asian Diner
The menu at this storefront, frequented mostly by Asians, is primarily Chinese, but it branches out into many Pacific Rim countries with a dish or two apiece. Standouts include Chinese Tossed Shredded Chicken Salad, Macao Beef Chow Fun, Malaysia Shrimp, Pork Steak with Udon, Chicken Patyala, Saigon Seafood Bowl and Steamed Fresh Salted & Black Eggs.
9880 S. Rural Road, 480-705-7486.

LD, $6-$9
The Imperial Garden
One of the best super buffets in town, where the quality of ingredients, care in cooking, frequent replenishing of the dishes and cleanliness of the surroundings make it worthy of special notice. Here one can order from a varied menu ... or do the buffet. Actually the latter is such a bargain, I have never seen anyone pass it up in favor of just one or two dishes. The iced buffet holding huge trays full of denizens from the deep, an exclusive feature here that practically trips you as you enter the buffet room. On it you will find fresh and steamed seafood including Salmon, Crab Clusters, Peel-and-Eat Shrimp, four kinds of Sushi, Pickled Squid, and Oysters on the Half shell. For us seafood junkies, it would be easy to make a whole meal from this table alone; however, there is a trio of long steam tables and another dessert stand to explore. A good starting point would be a thick and hearty Egg Drop Soup and a tasty, but not particularly adventurous Hot and Sour. A sample of the special grazing items, which change from day to day, sometimes includes a wonderful Teriyaki Chicken Skewer and a nicely spiced pair of Shrimp grilled shish kebab style. In addition, a sweet and tender Fried Scallop and a delectable Stuffed Crab Claw (with the stuffing on the outside and the shell as a handle) make frequent appearances. Indeed, there's nothing fowl at all about the Kung Pao or the Pepper Chicken, nor the Chicken with Broccoli or with Chilies (except that I like it hotter!). Sometimes noodle dishes are the dearth of the steam table, unless they are regularly replenished in small batches. The Chicken Lo Mein has never suffered from this treatment in my visits here. One of my favorites is Gen Tso Chicken; a little sweet, a little tart ... and a tad hot. And let's not forget some well-prepared veggies, either, like the button Mushrooms anointed with Brown Sauce and the Sauteed al dente Long Green Beans. The sweet and savory Spare Ribs are very much worth the messy fingers and make a terrific combination with the thin Rice Noodles.
1575 E. Camelback Rd., Phoenix, 602-604-1800.

LD, $8-$16
Jasmine Palace
As a lover of Oriental food, I've been to more "Palaces" than you can shake an eggroll at, but never have I been to one this splendid. Keyhole doorways, marble stairways and balustrades (with intricate gilded intaglio designs), heroic bronzes, and specimen plants and orchids strategically fill a very cleverly divided space to impart grandeur ... and yet keep somewhat of a sense of intimacy. Soft music, dramatic lighting and a well-dressed (and well-trained) waitstaff compliment the impressive setting. But this is not all show, because without good food, there wouldn't be much to tell. Worry not! The food, thanks to a fine chef imported from China, is absolutely top notch. The menu generally covers the tried and true, with a few Thai dishes thrown in for good measure. Mandarin Short Ribs and Fried Salt & Pepper Calamari are two good salt and pepper starters, and Thai Fish Cake and Thai Lettuce Wraps will titillate the taste buds of those who adore such combinations as cucumbers and curry or peanuts and sweet chili sauce. Salads can be treated as appetizers as well, and Grandma's (mildly) Spicy Salad and the Thai Grilled Beef Salad are great choices. Soups range from the deliciously subtle Sizzling Rice Soup to a piquant Thai Spicy Shrimp Soup. Entree headings are varied, including Pork, Beef, Chicken, Duck, Shrimp, Scallops and Fish. Vegetables, Bean Curd and Fried Rice dishes are not ignored; each has a diverse section. Chow Mein, Chow Mee and Chow Fun comprise the Gourmet Noodles section along with a couple of Rice Noodle variations. There even is a trio of main dish Noodle Soups. One time I asked for Yui-Shan Shrimp and Eggplant, a dish not specifically on the menu. The order was taken without a whimper, and the results were divine. Considering the food, service and atmosphere, the prices are very reasonable. They have now added an all-you-can-eat buffet, which, unfortunately, is a solid step down from their menu items.
13610 N. Scottsdale Rd. (at Thunderbird), Suites 15-16, Scottsdale, 480-315-1222.

LD, $4-$12, closed Sun.
Krua Thai
Imagine, a terrific little Thai restaurant quietly going about serving its neighborhood for over two years before we just accidentally found out about it. Where were my restaurant spies? Just remember, it's a small place and can't handle very big parties all at once. There are three things that really impress me about this place: the food is fabulous, the prices are miniscule, and the service is caring and attentive. Appetizers, which start out at under $2 and mostly remain under $6, include Larb and Todd Mun Pla, two of my favorites. No matter which Thai restaurant I go to, I always like to include a bowl of Tom Kha, a soup of coconut milk broth with lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, galanga root, chili, mushrooms, cilantro and fresh lime juice; a wonderful taste combination. Normally it comes in a donut-shaped hot pot, with some type of burner in the center to keep it warm, which usually fills about six small bowls and goes for eight dollars or more. But, what if I want Tom Kha and my buddy wants Tom Yum (or Woon Sen or even Keow Num, for that matter)? Here the problem is solved with delicious medium-sized portions (two to three of those other tiny bowls) at $2.95-$3.95 a pop. Although the list of entrees is a little less ambitious than most, the limited kitchen space is not set up for huge crowds or extensive variety. However, what they do, they do well. The other day I had an exquisite Gangped Ped Yakng (Roast duck with pineapple, tomatoes and lots of fresh basil in a red curry with coconut cream sauce). It was every bit as good as the one I had at a famous Scottsdale emporium (for considerably more money) just a couple of months ago. With over thirty other dishes, most of your favorites will be here, too. Do indulge before you get to desserts, however, because neither of their offerings is very exciting.
1601 E. Bell Rd., Phoenix, 602-971-971-4988.

LD, $6-$9+
Lemon Grass Thai Cuisine
A welcome addition to the neighborhood, this tidy cafe has all the standards done quite competently, but not much in the way of exotics. The Appetizers and Desserts are probably the most divergent areas. Stuffed Chicken Wings, Tod Mun (Fish Cakes) and Golden Nest are delightful openers, which you'll be happy to follow with one of their Curries (Green, Yellow, Red, Masaman, Gang Pa and Peanut are all good), a Stir Fry dish or perhaps a Noodle entree. The hearty Soups come in two sizes to serve two or four, and they have most of your favorite Salads, like Laab, Calamari and Mango (with Shrimp). For something a little different, go for the White Salad (white cabbage, chicken and shrimp in coconut dressing topped with fried onions). Great daily specials, too. End with Thai Sweet Sticky Purple Rice, Yuga Cake or Thai Custard. Not open for lunch on Sundays.
818 W. Broadway Road; 480-967-9121.

LD, $3-$9
Little Saigon
Crab Asparagus Soup, Rice-Flour Coconut-Battered Cakes topped with Shrimp, Charbroiled Ground Beef Wrapped in Grape Leaves, and Maloney Rice Noodle (big fat broad ones) are a few of my favorite things at this cute little Glendale cottage. I also highly recommend Mussels with Lemon Grass, Lotus Root with Shrimp & Pork, Black Peppered & Spiced Pork & Shrimp served with Fish Sauce and Charbroiled Pork Chop with Shredded Pork, Egg Cake and Broken Rice, with a Mango and Carrot Boba, Preserved Salted Plum Soda or Sweet Lychee drink.
7016 N. 57th Ave. Glendale, 623-939-6136. Fax 623-939-6640.

LD, $6-$19
Malee's on Main
Unquestionably the best Thai restaurant in the Valley, this is arguably one of the best Oriental restaurants in town. Light and cheery in the daytime, romantic at night, this is the darling of the cognoscenti, and for good reason: The food is superb! (Being located in the heart of Main Street's art gallery district doesn't hurt, either.) It's hard to find a bad dish here, but easy to discover some great ones. Their Tom Ka Gai is the standard to judge all others from. Tropical Pineapple finds a whole pineapple stuffed with shrimps, scallops, chicken and pineapple chunks in a coconut curry sauce with Kaffir leaves. Everyone's beloved dish, however, seems to be the sassy Spicy Crispy Pla — and there's enough to easily divide the portion to serve two. Here, a pair of deep fried filets of mild white fish is bathed in a sauce that is simultaneously sweet, hot, vinegary, and garlicky. Some of my other favorites are Chinese Sausage Salad, Larb, Dancing Shrimp, Ho Muk, Flaming Cornish Game Hen, Pla Brio Wan, Pad Se Lew, and almost every curry on the menu! Lunch is not served on Sundays.
7131 E. Main St., Scottsdale, 480-947-6042.

L, early D, $4-$5, Closed Mon.-Tues., SV
Manila Oriental Foodmart
In the back of this newly expanded fascinating emporium of Oriental foods, is a small Philippine restaurant. Although most prefer to take home bags of wonderful and mysterious goodies, there are a handful of tables that seat people community-style, so you can make new friends while indulging on new and different foods. As nothing is labeled, and English is the second language here, the point and hope method is the one of choice. No matter what you have, you can hardly go wrong unless you haven't yet acquired a taste for bitter melon, or your mind won't let you try a dish where the sauce is based on blood. If either of these are a problem, say "No bitter melon" or "No blood" and the server will understand, in case you accidentally have pointed to one. In addition to your choice of about six stew-type dishes, there are crunchy tightly rolled eggrolls, roasted pork, fried fishes (watch for bones), and a few other items that change often. The one or two item combos come with rice and are quite the bargain. Get your drinks from the foodmart's refrigerated cases — soymilk, iced coffee, vegetable and fruit drinks, or just regular soft drinks — and pay at the checkstand on the way out.
3557 W. Dunlap Ave., Phoenix, 602-841-2977.

BLD, $4-$7
Maxim Restaurant
The nondescript decor here is typical of most Vietnamese restaurants in the Valley, and the listing has the obligatory sections of soups. What makes this place different from the rest is the variety of Banh Cuon (Rice Flour Rolls) offered. The range of fillings/toppings includes ground pork, ground shrimp, vegetables, yam cake, Vietnamese ham, BBQ pork, pork tips and deep fried whole shrimp tempura yam cake. Other specialties consist of Bo Bia (spring roll filled with Chinese sausage, egg and vegetables), Bun Tom Thit Nuong (Vermicelli noodles with BBQ shrimp, pork and vegetables), and Ga Xao Xa Ot (Lemongrass chicken). Don't fail to undertake Bo Nuong La Nho (BBQ beef wrapped in grape leaves & vegetables) — it's really quite tasty. Be adventurous with your beverage and order Nhan Nhuc (juice of dried longan cooked), or Xi Muoi (iced salty plum), or Sinh To (a fruit shake of sour sop or sapota or ?). Be aware that Maxim is closed for dinner on Sundays.
3424 N. 19th Ave. Phoenix, 602-234-2710.

L (late) D, $6-$15+, Closed Sun.
Mishima Japanese Cuisine
Tucked away in the middle of a rather average looking strip mall, Mishima is not out to make a fashion statement. Inside features a long and comfortable sushi bar, but only four tables (all deuces), so two parties of three use up the entire seating capacity. To make things even a little more difficult, the menu has no English translations — and the waitress has a somewhat limited bilingual vocabulary. Despite these weaknesses, Mishima has more than enough virtues to make the trip worthwhile. To start things off right, individual hot towels, brought to the table, warm the heart as well as the hands. The thrust of the menu is seafood oriented, and the focus of that segment is on sushi and sashimi. Although everything is traditional, it need not be frightening to even the most rabid McDonald's habitue. Several appetizers are safe enough: a nice crunchy-skinned Egg Roll, a six-pack of potstickers (Gyoza), and some tasty fried mashed potato Croquettes. Or, you could go off the deep end with Oxtail, Tuna Tataki, Green Mussel Angela, or the like. The Sushi and Sashimi dinner for one is a masterpiece. First the waitress brings out a large oval plate artistically filled with sea-breeze fresh, silky smooth and buttery tasting small filets of a variety of fish; a large pinch of wasabi and a timbaleful of pickled ginger slices. This dish alone would be the full price elsewhere. But the sushi chef isn't finished by a long shot. Another platter of equal size and even denser with denizens of the deep is slipped next to the original. An encore presentation of beauty, it includes seven kinds of Nigiri, each with a ribbon of wasabi underlying the fish, plus a seductive Spicy Tuna Roll with sprouts and a piquant sauce. Nabeyaki Udon (seafood pot noodle) comes in a pot of junior Salvation Army size, with several filets of a white fish, a tender chunk of octopus, and a large tangle of tasty thick udon noodles swimming in a full-bodied broth. The Teriyaki Chicken is a huge serving of a slightly charred, moist and savory bird. Other recommended selections include the Fried Calamari and Fried Oysters (a special one day), both the Oxtails in Red Wine Sauce and the Oxtail Stew (another chalkboard selection), the Katsudon (a pork cutlet, onion and egg dish over rice), the Pan Fried Noodles with either Chicken or Beef, the Grilled Mahi Mahi. A complimentary tray of fresh fruit provides a perfect ending. Lunches are not served on Saturdays.
5534 E. Thomas Road, Phoenix, 602-956-8799.

LD, $4-$7, Closed Wed., SV
New Garden Restaurant
It doesn't always take a detective to find a good, solid Chinese restaurant in town, but this place is full of them, and beat cops, motorcycle cops, cruiser cops and various and sundry other police personnel. On the main drag, but off the beaten path, New Garden long has been a fixture in this part of town. And, if you think it may look a little seedy now, you should have seen it when it was the "old" Garden, before the remodeling and redecorating (and I use that term very loosely). The food, however, belies its ordinary surroundings. Of special note are the gigantic and deliciously greasy Egg Rolls, like none you've had before. Also in the too-tasty-to-let-your-dog-have-the-doggy-bag category are the three huge crisp-edged Egg Foo Young patties that come in an order (I like the pork ones best, although the shrimp variety are not far behind), engulfed in a rich brown gravy that sometimes reaches beyond the borders of the large oval platter on which they are served. Another fave of mine is the Chicken Chop Suey Noodles, a dish more authentic and tasty than it sounds. There are two caveats, however: we would forgive you if you were to pass on the ho-hum Hot and Sour Soup, and be aware that the Garden is closed for lunch on Saturdays.
823 S. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-254-9110.

D, $5-$12+
Off the Hook
A sushi and martini bar in Anthem? Yes, and a darned good one at that. (Who knows, maybe it takes a martini or two for the locals to even try sushi!) For complete naysayers, there also are some safe alternatives, like Potstickers in a Mango Mustard Sauce and Chicken Katsu Skewers. For the others, Yuzu Vinaigrette, Scallop Dynamite, Spicy Tuna Stuffed Mushrooms and some House Rolls with woefully corny names like Shiitake Happens, Shrimply Irresistible, Eel Tempered Hottie and (honest to goodness) Warm Apple Pie Roll.
41111 N. Daisy Mountain Drive, Anthem, 623-551-6099.

LD(early), $3-$4+ SV
Philippine-Asian Seafood Market
Housed in a corner of a bustling import market with narrow isles and shelves crammed with exotic ingredients, this tiny restaurant has only a trio of tables inside, and an equal amount on a misted patio outside. The menu, behind one of the two steam tables, is hand-written on a few chalkboards, but little is in English anyway. Fortunately, Lulu, one of the owners, is gregarious ... and very helpful. The steam-table entrees vary daily, and come in embarrassingly inexpensive combinations of one or more meats with one or two scoops of white rice. When available I recommend Pork or Chicken Adobo, Ginata Ang Gulay, Menudo (the Philippine version has no tripe), Liang and Fried Catfish filet for beginners. Pancit and Palabok are two noodle dishes that are innocuous enough for the most timid, yet have a wide variety of ingredients. For those who like things a little more exotic, Paksiw, Kare Kare, Sarsiuadong Isda, Abodong Pusit, Lechon and Dinuguan will be your cup of tea. Aficionados of the deep fryer will be in artery-clogged heaven with Tokwa't Baboy, Crispy Pata and Chicharon Bulakiak. Do save room for simple and tasty desserts like Biko, Halo Halo and Bibingka. Don't be embarrassed to ask questions about anything you don't know about. Lulu will happily (and patiently) explain to you all of the ingredients and cooking methods, so you won't risk eating anything you have an aversion to. Just don't ask for chopsticks; after all, this is Philippine food!
2957 W. Bell Road, Phoenix, #H-2, 602-896-0803. Fax 602-896-0807.

LD, $4-$8
Pho Bang Restaurant
This long-standing cafe specializes in what might be called the Vietnamese national dish, Pho. It is a beef broth soup with rice noodles and one or more of the following: Eye of Round (rare [fresh] or well done), Brisket, Tendon, Omosa, Navel, Flank and Beef Meat Balls. This works out to 15 different menu listings, although I'm sure the combinations permeate out to more. Pho Bang's phos are priced to give you more bang for your buck. Other favorites of mine are the Chicken Curry Served w/French Bread, Pepper Catfish Simmered w/Special Sauce Served in a Clay Pot and, believe it or not, the Yang Chow Fried Rice w/Shrimp, BBQ Pork, Chinese Style Sausage, Egg and Vegetables. Obviously, this is not your normal fried rice! All the usual fascinating Vietnamese drinks are offered. Try the Salty Plum Soda or the Three Color Sweet Beans.
1702 W. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-433-9440.

BLD, $4-$8, SV
Pinoy-Mex
This is another great place to explore the intricacies of Philippine cuisine in a casual and non-intimidating space. The Saturday all-you-can-eat lunch buffet affords you a vast selection for a mere $6.95. The last time I went, I enjoyed tastes of coconut chicken, sweet and sour pork, stuffed squid, chicken adobo and pork skins. I also tried their beef with peppers, salmon with black beans and, of course, the crispy pork (Lechon). There also were noodles with sausage meat, carrots and cabbage, spring rolls, fish heads, fish stew and Pinakbet, bitter melon with pork and veggies in a strong shrimp paste, one of their specialties. If you find that overwhelming (or come between Sunday and Friday), you can opt for a daily combo plate ($3.50 for one item, $4.50 for two items — including two huge scoops of rice — and only one dollar for each extra item). Add a Kakanin (Dessert) and Salamig (Cold Drink), and you'll be in heaven. The Mex part is also a new addition, and is great for breakfasts, although they do serve Tacos, Tortas and a variety of Platters (with rice and beans) from opening 'til closing.
3551 W. Dunlap Ave., Phoenix, 602-347-6204.

LD, $6-$15+
Restaurant Takamatsu
Lucky for you if you live in the west part of the Valley, for Takamatsu is about as authentic and colorful a far east (Korean and Japanese) restaurant as you will find this side of the San Andreas Fault. Although it may seem like a gimmick, the BBQ and Casserole Cook-At-Your-Table dishes really are exotic, but wonderfully flavorful, and their preparation is virtually a show in itself. The BBQ ranges from the common (Skirt Steak or Beef Short Ribs) to the unusual (Marinated Cuttle Fish or Beef Tongue), while the Casseroles all have ingredients (Tripe or Octopus or?) that demand an educated palate and/or an open mind. In fact, Takamatsu has very little for the avid burger and fries connoisseur who might consider the Udon (Japanese Style Noodle Soup) to be on the cutting edge. For the more adventurous and appreciative, the Hot and Spicy Fish Roe Stew, the Sauteed Kimchee with Sliced Pork and Vegetables, and the Buckwheat Noodles with Spicy Raw Fish will have you coming back for more. A hint for the wise (and penny-wise): many of the genuine native dishes are available for lunch in smaller portions at fire-sale prices.
4214 W. Dunlap Ave., Phoenix, 623-842-0400. Fax 623-842-2560.

LD, $4-$10, Closed Tue., SV
Royal Thai Grill
Freeway close to everywhere (eastside, at least), but more-or-less in the boonies, the great food and rock bottom prices are what make this place a viable destination. A super starter is the Duck Soup (most soups serve 3-4). In an ambrosial, broth rich with the taste from tender pieces of duck and a number of herbs and spices, are lovely soft white flat noodles and tiny straw mushrooms. Yen-Ta-Fo, on the other end of the heat spectrum, is a chili hot and puckering sour red soup with a copious amount of clams, shrimp, squid, fish balls, tofu, and a spinach-like green vegetable. Another soup, an old favorite of mine, is Tom Kha Gai. This soup is somehow both assertive and benign at the same time, with a spicy hot kick, a tangy lemongrass sour, the soothing properties of coconut milk, and the elusive woodsy element of galangal. The chicken and mushrooms give it direction and it's charcoal chimney, emanating out of the center hole of the doughnut shaped bowl, keeps it perfectly hot throughout the entire meal. E-Sarn Sausages come cut in hefty chunks of coarsely ground, heavily seasoned meat cooked to a T (in this case, an E). Tod Mun, fried fish cakes with their own dipping sauce, is another winner. Squid fans must try the Yum Pla Muk, a wonderful contrast of cool, snow-white squid against the hot chile in the sauce. Yum Woon-Sen, another salad-type, combines bean threads and other vegetables with ground pork and shrimp, the whole melange having a decidedly lemon-flavored bias. Thai curries are particularly renowned, and Panang Nur is a textbook version. The Cornish Game Hen employs a whole bird that has been sixthed and deep-fried until the skin is beautifully crispy. A rich and fruity dipping sauce is a lovely accent. Thai iced coffee and Thai iced tea are important tools for cooling your jets when the chilies get out of hand, but are great thirst quenchers with the milder dishes, too. Don't be surprised when the check comes. Thinking about all that you have been served, it often looks like they forgot to put something on the bill. They are not open for dinner on Mondays.
321 W. McKellips Road, Suite #103, Mesa, 480.733.9025.

LD, $4-$15+
Seoul Jung Restaurant
For an absolutely splendid appetizer try the towering plate of Shrimp Tempura, looking like a mini Greek temple held up by shrimp columns, and tasting ethereally light and absolutely greaseless. Chim (Gun) Man Doo, Hae-Mul Pa-Jeon and Chap Chae will placate the less adventurous, while the courageous will be rewarded with Eun Dae Gu Jo-Rim, Gol-Bang-Yi Mu-Chim and Bibim Neng Myun. One delightful detail found here (that ought to be mandatory for many other restaurants around town) is a button at each table to sound a chime near the kitchen. Needless to say, good service is something they are proud of.
10040 N. 43rd Ave., Glendale, 623-463-8000.

D Sunday Brunch $4-$16
Sol Y Sombra 
It might take a navigation system and a little patience to find this place the first time, what with little signage and the private elevator to this second story perch being through a breezeway and off to the left, out of sight until the very end. Then hang a U-turn by the lavatory, and slip in a door on your right. Suddenly, you’re in another world, a large hard-edged minimalist room with somber colors to contrast with the few stunning large, dramatic paintings The menu here is comprised of tapas, tapas and more tapas — a total of 30 in all, of which a half-dozen are vegetable side dishes. Even something as simple as Pan con Tomate (tomato toast with fresh garlic and sea salt) was surprisingly impressive. I had expected some variation on a bruschetta, but these golden-topped wedges of crusty bread had all the flavors infused throughout: simple, distinctive and strong enough to make a statement without hitting you over the head.
It took us four tastings to feel like we had a good command of the innovative and refined menu, and in all those times I would say we were disappointed with only a select few dishes, one of which (Shaved Fennel and Sour Orange Salad, tossed with hazelnuts in a black olive vinaigrette) was easily saved by removing the Italian parsley leaves, which were too strong for the other more subtle flavors of the dish. The others were not bad, mind you, just kind of ordinary. With just those few shortfalls, everything else was dazzling … or better!  GPS, Pirate Map, or Native guide, however you make your way to this diamond — its well worth the journey. No Bull.
Closed Sunday 20707 North Pima Rd. Scottsdale 480-443-5399

LD, $4-$7, SV
Sun Valley Bakery
This austerely adorned shop is part bakery, part restaurant. Service is semi-self, and, although there is an unquestionable language barrier, the small staff is always trying hard to please. If you can point, however, you can get a great meal here even if English is your only language. All the foods are displayed on steam tables, and it seems you can get combinations of about four to seven items with rice and a soft drink for way under 10 dollars. Indulge! Enjoy!
4141 N. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-352-6600.

L(late)D, $6-$19+, closed Sun.
Sushi Mishima
Tucked away in the middle of a rather average looking strip mall, this neighborhood Japanese restaurant is not out to make a fashion statement. Inside features a long and comfortable sushi bar, but only a few tables. To start things off right, individual hot towels, brought to the table, warm the heart as well as the hands. The thrust of the menu is seafood oriented, and the focus of that segment is on sushi and sashimi. Although everything is traditional, it need not be frightening to even the most rabid McDonald's habitue. Several appetizers are safe enough: a nice crunchy-skinned Egg Roll, a six-pack of potstickers (Gyoza), and some tasty fried mashed potato Croquettes. Or, you could go off the deep end with Crab Shumai, Green Mussel Angela, or the like. The Sushi and Sashimi Dinner for Two (to five or more) is a masterpiece. First the waitress brings out a large oval plate artistically filled with sea-breeze fresh, silky smooth and buttery tasting small filets of a variety of fish; a large pinch of wasabi and a timbaleful of pickled ginger slices. This dish alone would be the full price elsewhere, but the sushi chef isn't finished by a long shot. Another platter of equal size and even denser with denizens of the deep is slipped next to the original. An encore presentation of beauty, it includes seven kinds of Nigiri, each with a ribbon of wasabi underlying the fish, plus a seductive Spicy Tuna Roll with sprouts and a piquant sauce. The Bento Box lunch changes daily (mine had Teriyaki Chicken over white rice, Albacore with a miso-like sauce over greens, Spicy Tuna [like an uncooked pate with sesame seeds], Croquette [crunchy potato] and a bit of Salad.) Other recommended selections include the Pan Fried Noodle with Calamari or Shrimp, Salmon Teriyaki, the Katsudon (a pork cutlet, onion and egg dish over rice), Teriyaki Chicken (a huge serving of a slightly charred, moist and savory bird) and both the Pork in Red Wine Sauce and the Osso Bucco (chalkboard selections, because the chef is also accomplished in Italian cuisine). A complimentary tray of fresh fruit provides a perfect ending. Lunches are not served on Saturdays.
5534 E. Thomas Road, Phoenix, 602-956-8799.

LD, $7-$14+
Tabletop Grill & Sushi
The small sushi bar puts out briny fresh fare, and the Bento Box lunches (weekdays only) are a great (and tasty) deal, the Korean food here is worth the trip. The Japanese section of the menu is small — Teriyakis, Tempuras and Katsus — and the ones we've tried are well crafted. But Korean (the most exotic, to American tastes, of all the Oriental foods, is explored in depth here. In fact, some of the depths, like cold noodle soups and fermented cabbages (Kimchee), are totally foreign. With each meal you are served a number of cold sambals (side dishes), some of which take a little getting used to. Some are downright delicious to most everyone. Although their dishes range to the most traditional (read very Korean), there are many with universal appeal. I would suggest Bibim Bop and Bulkogi as starters, and you surely will come back for more.
4211 W. Bethany Home Road, Phoenix, 602-973-3188. Fax 602-973-2644.

LD, $5-$8
Thai Corner
The only thing far out about this place is the location. And, I'm sure, people who live nearby are happy to have good, solid Thai food at incredibly low prices. In fact, they're so reasonable, you could spend some extra on gas just to get here, and still have a good bargain. We liked the Tom Kha Gai, Larb, Basil Beef, Shrimp Curry, Pad Woon Sen and Thai Baked Chicken, but everything on Rangsan and Lucky Srisuk's menu is prepared with that same caring hand. Lunch is not served on Saturdays.
5253 E. Brown Road, Suite #104 (Alta Mesa Plaza), Mesa, 480-969-0087.

L(early)D $7-$15
Thai Elephant — A super new addition to the spotty downtown dining scene, this Thai eatery is even open for dinner, though they do close at a rather early 7 p.m. Great starters include Crispy Sweet Potato, Thai Fish Cake, Pork Salad and a unique Shrimp in the Blanket (or try the four item Combination for $8.95). Soup is practically a must at Thai restaurants, especially the spicy Tom Yum or the creamy Tom Kha, with your choice of a) Chicken, Pork, Beef or Tofu, b) Shrimp, Calamari, Sole Fish or Salmon, or c) Seafood. The level determines the price, with the soup ranging from $8.95 to $13.95 (a to c), and most other dishes from $9.95 to $14.95 respectively. Whatever the main ingredient, they seem to be quite liberal with its content. Delicious Stir-Fries are offered, like Heaven Ginger, Spicy Eggplant, Elephant Garlic and Siamese Basil; Curries come in Green, Red and Yellow, as well as a tantalizing Jungle Curry and a hot and sweet Pineapple Shrimp Curry with tomato and coconut milk. There’s a small section from the grill encompassing Thai BBQ Chicken, Siam Pork Chop and Grilled Garlic Seafood, and a more comprehensive listing of Noodle (and Rice) dishes. Here you will find such goodies as Drunken Noodle, Chicken Noodle (wide pasta with turnips, eggs, and other things in a soy garlic sauce), Glass Noodle and the ever-popular Pad Thai. Order one or two notches below your usual heat level, as they really aren’t kidding here, but if you go overboard, the Thai Black Sweet Sticky Rice with Pumpkin Custard will cool the fires. This is not everyone’s cup of tea (by the way, their Thai Iced Tea is good and cooling too), taste wise, but it does the job and is authentic. Fried Bananas with Coconut Ice Cream might be more to your liking, however.
20 W. Adams St., Phoenix, 602-252-3873. Fax 602-252-3901.

LD, $5-$9
Thai Lahna
Some like it hot (I do!) and some just like it. Whatever your preference, you don't have to worry here. If you say very hot, it comes out searing — but if you say mild, it's barely a tingle on the tongue. Tom has been in the kitchen long enough not to disappoint anyone. Appetizers run the range from the pedestrian (but tasty) Satay of beef or chicken; to a refreshing Thai sausage on lettuce with cucumber, tomatoes and red onions, tied together with a special lime dressing; to a fascinating dish of ground fish with Thai curry and chopped green beans. Soups (which could be a meal in themselves) are mostly pepper hot and lemon grass sour, with the likes of shrimp, chicken or seafood, mushrooms, coconut milk and exotic herbs and spices. There are actually only four curries: Green, Yellow, Panang (Dried) and Red; as well as only four noodle dishes; however, the Vegetarian Entrees listing is not only very substantial, but also intriguingly varied and imaginative. When I'm in a carnivorative mood, I often get the Cashew Duck, Seafood in a Clay Pot (with ginger and silver-noodles), or Pla Rahd Phik Sohd, a whole crispy fried fish (order in advance, if possible) in homemade chili sauce with onions, mushrooms, chili and mint.
3738 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix. 602-955-4658.

LD, $5-$9
Thai Pots
New, hard to find and completely unpretentious, you're bound to love this small cafe ... if you can locate it, that is. The best way is to go south on Alma School and turn into the driveway about 50 yards before the corner of Queen Creek. If you miss it, you can circle behind it through the shopping center parking lot and try again. Once inside, we highly suggest you try the Combination Appetizer, to be shared by 2 to 4 people. It has Eggrolls, Thai Toast, Thai Pots Dumplings, Fried Wontons and Chicken Satays, with three dipping sauces, all for $8.95 — and all top notch. We tried two soups, the Tom Yum Kai and the Tom Kah Kai (with coconut milk). Both were exemplary, although the former had a surprising jolt of heat since we had ordered it mild. I like hot, so my companion's reject became my reward. Had we not already ordered the entrees, this would have been enough. Each of us was delighted with our selections, both at the time and heated up the next day as well. One buddy chose the Thai Pots Delight, a very tasty sweet pineapple curry with bell peppers, onions, tomatoes and a generous serving of shrimp. Another picked the Pad lad Na, a stir-fry of Thai rice noodles with Chinese broccoli and pork, which he found to be addicting. I was quite happy with my Seafood Chuchi, a mixture of shrimp, mussels, catfish, squid and mushrooms in a light red curry packed with a plethora of subtle flavors. For me, Thai Iced Coffee is di rigueur. We had no room for dessert this time, but are keeping in mind the homemade Coconut Ice Cream and the Sticky Rice with Mango.
2950 S. Alma School Rd. (go southbound, just yards from the northwest corner at Queen Creek Road), Chandler, 480-857-8246.

LD, $5-$10
Thai Rama
Just a few extra feet from the newly widened Camelback Road saved this cute little restaurant from relocation. Although the ownership has recently changed, they still put out a nice variety of traditional dishes of a cuisine that is becoming increasingly popular with the inquisitive diner. For appetizers we suggest Tohd Mahn and Yahm Guhn Chiang (fish patties and Thai sausage), followed by Tohm Yahm Goong or Gai Tohm Khah (hot and sour shrimp soup or chicken soup with galanga and coconut milk). For the main event, try the Cashews Duck, Paht Ped Pra-Duk (catfish with chilies and veggies), Paht Thai (stir-fried sweet noodle with chicken and shrimp) or any of the curries (red, green, yellow or panang (dried). End your delightful meal with Sang Khayah, Thai Egg Custard made with coconut and topped with pumpkin and a Thai Iced Coffee (but only one, this stuff is strong!). Lunch is not served on Sundays.
1221 W. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-285-1123.

LD, $2-$6+, closed Sun.
Thao's Sandwiches Oriental Food
This clean and neat storefront serves particularly well prepared food, including lots of full meal soups with rice or noodles and a variety of meats and seafoods. Their Vietnamese Crepe with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts served with lemon fish sauce is the best I've had in town, and the Mi Quang (rice crackers, pork slivers, spring onion, peanuts, bean sprouts, shrimp, mortadella, stripped morning glory, saw-tooth herb, minced pork balls and white noodles in a zesty chicken stock), quite the oddity, is delicious as well. Best of all, though, they have a half-dozen sandwiches of Vietnamese cold cuts made on crusty French rolls, including sardine, roller side pork and a special combination, each at $2.50 or less.
6025 N. 27th Ave., Phoenix; 602-841-5841.

LD, $4-$7+, SV
Wahson
When you think of the wonderful little Chinese holes-in-the-wall back East, you're reminiscing about Wahson's twin sisters. Here we have an absolutely plain-Jane storefront dishing out mouth-watering dishes at '70s prices. Truly a neighborhood gem, this tiny eatery is to be cherished and lavished with business. Slowly, and with no advertising whatsoever, the word is getting out, especially to the vast westside Asian population, and short waits are now possible at the busiest times. This is one place you won't have to ask for the "special Chinese menu," as its forty dishes are the mainstay, with a very limited number of Combos and Chef's Specials listed on another menu, but even it has a few more authentic dishes such as Stir-Fried Flounder Fillet and Yu-Shan Chicken. There are so many dishes I could endorse here, the listing would be immense. Here are a few gustatory highlights. I love the Fish Maw Soup, but if that bothers you, try the West Lake Beef Soup instead. Their Half Roasted Duck is nice and crispy (and cheap), and the Walnut Shrimp is terribly habit-forming. Other dishes I crave include their Clam with Black Bean Sauce, Chicken With Squid, Salt & Pepper Shrimp, Beef With Silk Melon (not to be confused with Beef With Bitter Melon, which is good but takes some getting used to), Subgun (Subgum) Noodle and Sauteed Snown (Snow) Pea Leaves. There are also Family Dinners for groups from three to ten, the latter including Shark Fin Soup and Seasonal Fruit for Dessert. In between are a Roasted Duck, 2 Lobsters with Ginger & Onion Sauce, Crispy Chicken, a Steamed Rockfish, Black Mushrooms with Bok Choy, Scallops with Snow Peas, Shrimp with Salt & Pepper and Crab with Black Bean Sauce. What a fun feast — you won't leave that one hungry! Speaking of fun feasting, with a little notice you can even take home a fully prepared Roasted Baby Pig — a sensational centerpiece for your next party.
8056 N. 19th Ave. (northeast corner at Northern Avenue), Phoenix, 602-995-4606.

LD, $4-$8, Closed Sun.
Wong's
A little hole-in-the-wall cafe in the middle of an industrial area, this Chinese restaurant is like a transplanted dinosaur from the '60s. Most of the dishes here are good, but not fancy, with the usual selection of beef, pork, chicken, shrimp, and vegetable varieties of old favorites. Everything tastes fresh (it is rumored that some of the veggies are from the family garden), but the crispy House Special Chicken and Shrimp with String Beans both go over the top. Servers come "family style."
1139 E. Buckeye Road, Phoenix, 602-252-2791.

LD, $5-$11
Wong's Place
Saying this is the best Chinese restaurant in Tempe isn't saying a whole lot. Personally, I would say it's one of the most underrated in the Valley. Sure, they have all the usual dishes, but why not be adventurous and order from their posted daily specials or the Chinese menu. Seafood Chow Fun, Pork Short Ribs Sizzling Plate, or Eight Delight in a Hot Pot are good starters. More advanced Sinophyles would do well with Eggplant in Preserved Red Tofu Sauce or Salty Fish with Chicken Fried Rice. Mmmm!
1825 E. Baseline Road, #2, Tempe, 480-838-8988.

LD, $7-$15+, closed Mon.
Zang Asian Bistro
In an oasis of tranquility in the heart of historic downtown Glendale, this fine eatery puts out quality dishes from China, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore and, what do you know, even an American invention, Chop Sooee (Suey). The atmosphere is warm from the extensive use of wood, the fixtures are quite contemporary (check out the sink in the men's room — and probably the ladies' room, too), and the walls are lined with colorful original artworks picked out and imported back from China in the owner's suitcase (the framing being done locally). Even though the same dish at one of the specialty restaurants might be a smidge more refined, here you can do a smorgasbord of eastern countries' cuisines all at the same time without ever having to change tables. Our meal started out with Chicken Lettuce Wraps (China), then a complimentary (we found a coupon somewhere) order of very crisp Egg Rolls with three dipping sauces (China), followed by yummy Tom Yam Seafood Soup (Thailand). My dining partner got a huge plate of lightly battered Chicken in Apricot Sauce (Vietnam), while I dined on a somewhat sweet and pungent King Tau Pork (Japan). I don't know how, but by some means we managed to make room for a Deep Fried Cheesecake drizzled with chocolate sauce (country of origin unknown). So our Asian tour, first class all the way, took a little more than an hour and we saved thousands upon thousands in airfare. What a deal!
6835 N. 58th Drive, Glendale; 623-847-8888.