A
LD $9-$19+
Aiello’s
Chef Joey Aiello is classic East Coast Italian all the way. This graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America takes his food very seriously. There are no shortcuts for Aiello when it comes to the taste of your meal; he makes all of his fabulous pastas, rich sauces, mozzarella cheese, and does most of his own baking to boot.
Many of the pasta dishes, like Spaghetti & Joe's Famous veal and pork Meatballs (two succulent whoppers) are on both the lunch and dinner menus, but Cavatelli, incredible homemade pasta shells, with Sunday Gravy (an especially thick and rich sauce with sausage chunks) isn't. A little lighter, but full of flavor, the Fusilli Chicken (rolatini stuffed with pecorino and parsley) is a dinner only item (although the Fusilli Salmon is ambimealtrious).
Joe's Lasagna is classic Calabrese style with layers of sausage meat, cheese and ribbons of homemade pasta, an unfussy collaboration, with all the flavors being harmoniously pervasive. The fresh Rigatonis here are outstanding, whether scattered with Wild Mushrooms and Shallots in a simple aglio olio or a more assertive Bolognese sauce of beef, vegetables, porcini mushrooms, tomatoes and a touch of Chianti. Aiello's is not open for lunch on weekends.
5202 N. Central Ave. (between Camelback and Missouri), Phoenix, 602-277-8700. www.aiellositlianrestaurant.com.
LD, $5-$9, closed Sun.
A Touch of European Cafe
In a little house of Polish serendipity in Glendale's historic Catlin Court, Margaret and Waldemar Okula dole out Mushroom and Noodle Soup, fat Pierogi, Bigos and Goulash with Noodles, leading to Prune Pierogi for dessert. No dinners Mon.-Wed. Hours may vary — call before you go.
7146 N. 57th Drive; 623-847-7119.
L, $6-$9, closed Sat., Sun.
Athenian Express
This lunch place serves all kinds of salads, pita sandwiches and subs, along with a host of specials. Great Taramasalata, Dolmadas, Gyros Pitas and Falafel. Baklava or Kataïfi (looks like shredded wheat, but tastes much better) will satisfy your sweetest tooth, and go great with a cuppa Greek joe.
814 N. Central Ave., 602-712-0011.
LD, $4-$8, closed Sat., Sun.
Athens
The decor here includes some lovely colorful photos of the Greek countryside (which would benefit greatly from a trip through an enlarging machine), and a small trompe l'oeil mural that is quite effective. But you don't come here to ogle the interiors. What makes Athens a standout is the extraordinary quality of the food for the prices charged. That alone justifies the bare Formica tables, the Chinet plates, and the semi-self service. Who cares if the crisp white linens are made of paper when you can get a juicy half chicken baked Greek style in a savory garlic and lemon sauce with a touch of wine, plus fluffy rice, buttery garlic roll and a (not so) small Greek salad dressed in a fantastic herby balsamic dressing, all for $7.50? Almost everything served here is either made entirely in house or doctored up for that custom touch. We adored the Sausage and Peppers, The Souvlaki Pita (all sandwiches come with golden fries or an exemplary Greek-influenced salad), and several of the Pita Pizzas. The Gyros has nicely browned edges, and is piled on like the chef is oblivious to the cost. Porky Athens (what's in a name, anyway?) is a neat combination of pork loin cubes with mushrooms sauteed in a garlicky olive oil, and Chicken Faliro, with cubes of breast meat and lots artichoke hearts, has been cooked in a lovely sauce of garlic, wine and lemon juice with a hefty sprinkling of briny imported capers. The Shrimp Myconos has intense flavors of their lemon wine garlic sauce topped with feta cheese. Desserts, made elsewhere, are much more reasonable than exciting, and coffee drinkers won't find any java here anyway.
2340 W. Northern Ave., Phoenix, 602-249-4917.
B
LD, $7-$10+
babbO
This restaurant has so much going for it, I should do a full review of it. But, it just too good a secret to keep to myself, so I wanted you to know about it right away. (It's been open over a year already, but I just happened on it recently.) The place is good looking enough to take company to, the service is friendly and efficient, the food is to die for and the prices are amazingly low. What more could you want? Just taste the Firecracker Rolls, Mandarin Spinach Salad, Curried Chicken and Pear Pasta, Steak Panino Sandwich (or Chicken Artichoke Calzone), Gorgonzola Pear Pizza and a Dreamsicle to quench your thirst, and you'll be back again and again. By the way, if you have room, the Zeppoli (dough balls deep fried and topped with honey, cinnamon, vanilla ice cream and whipped cream) are addicting enough all by themselves.
20211 N. 67th Ave., Phoenix; 623-566-9898.
LD, $7-$19
Bavarian Point
The German food at this far eastside establishment is more refined and lighter than your usual Valley Teutonic fare. Sure, there are the typical wursts and schnitzels (and, as a general rule, this worst is better than the others' best), but the kitchen here offers some wonderful variations of a much-maligned cuisine. I highly recommend the Forsterkotelett (although I recommend pointing to it on the menu instead of trying to pronounce it), a dish of sauteed pork cutlets covered with a portabella and brown mushroom gravy and served with bacon beans, herb potatoes and applesauce. All dinners — with more than ample portions of filling foods — come with your choice of soup of the day or a trip to the small but fresh salad bar, so pace your meal accordingly. A somewhat lighter suggestion is the Lachs Anglaise, where a lovely salmon filet covered with bay shrimp in a rich wine sauce is simply paired with potatoes and asparagus. By contrast, slices of a beef filet in a paprika cognac sauce finished with heavy cream and studded with chopped mushrooms, pickles, and ham (Filetgoulash Stroganoff), served with spaetzle, is more demanding of a longer digestion period. If you still have room, the baker does a very credible version of Palatschinken — opt for the blueberry version.
4815 E. Main St., Mesa, 480-830-0999.
LD, $8-$14+
Bell' Italia Pizzeria
Don't let the pizzeria appellation put you off if you're in the mood for delicious southern Italian pasta, veal, chicken and shrimp dishes, because this cute little storefront does a serious job with their entire menu. The decor is sophisticated and so is the food, and the local crowds attest to that in a big way. The Caputo family runs this place in a friendly kinfolk fashion (the kids get a bit of dough and a tiny rolling pin to quietly while away their time), always making the customer feel comfortable and special at the same time. At lunchtime (Thursdays through Saturdays only), Calzones and Panini (try the Peppers and Eggs) might seem more appropriate than full dinners, which come with hot fresh baked bread, salad and choice of pasta. Naturally, pizzas make a great meal any time of day, and Bell' Italia's generously topped pies are based on homemade dough and made from scratch sauce. Get a pitcher of their fresh fruit mellow LaBella Sangria to go with, and life will be beautiful. Our most recent meal here started with a big plate of plump, tender and succulent Mussels in a rich and non-acidic Marinara sauce that tasted like it had been simmering all day long. My dining partner had toothsome Linguini with fresh clams in a white wine sauce and I had Chicken Scarfarello, a take-off on Vesuvio, with potatoes, chicken, gobs of Mozzarella and, instead of artichoke hearts, peperoncini — definitely a keeper! For dessert we shared an astonishingly rich Cannoli that must have had a cup of mascarpone incorporated into the filling of the perfectly crunchy homemade tube. Be sure to end the meal with a glass of lemoncello (if you're not the designated driver).
4909 E. Chandler Blvd., Ahwatukee; 480-893-1233; www.bellitaliapizzeria.com.
LD, $7-$15+
Buca di Beppo
Believe it or not, the name of this emporium of excesses translates loosely to Joe's Basement. Well, I never saw a basement this over-decorated in my life. Of course, it's all in fun. So is the noise level, which can get in the high decibels when a fun-loving party is nearby (though there are many, many semi-intimate dining areas, somehow the sounds do carry). The servers are caring and trained well, and give you the necessary guidance to tailor your table's order from the menu of family-style-sized and -served dishes. For instance, a starter Di Beppo "1893" Salad easily feeds six hungry people with the probability of a doggy bag thrown in (if your four-legged friend even likes salad)! Pizzas are over one foot by two feet, laden with goodies; two-pound platters of pastas in homemade sauces come with various meats, veggies and seafood items. They also serve specialty entrees like Buca Chicken Vesuvio with spicy Italian sausage, white beans, potatoes and oregano in a drizzle of olive oil. A quart-sized bowl of rum- and espresso-soaked Tiramisu makes for a sweet ending. (Warning: if you don't do valet parking, you're in for a long walk.)
3828 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-949-6622.
C
LD $11-$19+ Cl Mon
Café Bink
For several years, Kevin Binkley has been wowing foodies and critics alike, eliciting such accolades that you thought were reserved for New York’s finest. Although reasonable for the quality of the food served, Binkley’s prices did exceed our budget for reviews, so we could not participate in spreading the word. Evidently Binkley wanted to expand his customer base to those with more moderate incomes, so he finally remodeled a storefront down the road to become Café Bink. The new eatery is more casual, with small tables and a communal dining bar inside, a large patio in front and a less changing (and less challenging) menu. The prices are also down a notch, with the bulk of the dishes (small portions, smaller prices) running between $11 and $19, but going as low as $6 (French Fries served with spicy Aioli), up to $24 for a Terrine of Foie Gras served with a brioche, marmalade and watercress. At lunchtime they add some sandwiches and Panini. Known for his made-from-scratch recipes that use of the finest ingredients gotten from small local vendors whenever possible (the slow food movement personified), even the simplest of dishes will be a couple of notches higher than the competition (of which there is very little, really). We were thrilled with the Wild Mushroom Soup with an island of roasted mushrooms (for that elusive smoky taste) and leeks in the middle and a hearty Country Påtè served with a huge caper berry, pistachios, pickled red onions and a dab of course ground mustard, and crisp toast ovals awaiting their payload. The impressive entrées included a hefty cube of Corned Beef coated with a brown sugar mustard butter sided with a medley of carrots, apple and cabbage, and a very flavorful and tender Hanger Steak dressed with roasted broccolini and accompanied by a ramekin full of some of the best potatoes ever, rich and cheesy with a delightful crunchy top. Yes, the portions are on the petite side, but the flavors are so intense, the meal seems far more filling that it actually is. Even so, we couldn’t pass up one of Kevin’s desserts. The ripe juicy Strawberry slices with Shortbread fingers and a silver server of Sabayon appeared to fit the bill, and did so in a most delectable way. Actually the trip up to Cave Creek is very pleasant; the trip back with full stomachs seems inordinately longer.
36889 N. Tom Darlington Dr., Carefree, 480-488-9796
(Weekend B), L, & D (Fri & Sat by reservation) ($10-$13+).
Café Monarch
Christopher Van Arsdale, who most recently was the personal chef at (the Scottsdale residence of) a famous Hollywood producer, is a multitalented fellow. He took the front of a small (five unit) apartment building, turned it commercial, and added a terrace planted as lushly as a botanical garden, redid the interior to be a magazine-worthy showplace, and even sculpted a fanciful scalloped mirror frame out of small rocks in the bathroom laudable of a BH&G feature. He also is a firm believer in the principles of the Slow Food Movement, and has been so even before the movement was quantified. Healthy ingredients — organic and local whenever practical — are prepared with individual meticulousness and love of purpose. Just about everything is made from scratch and assembled when ordered.
While the lunch menu is pretty constant, with perhaps an added daily special or two, breakfast on Saturday and Sunday is at the whim of the chef. One lovely morning, the chef’s whim began with a trio of ethereal croissants, light and buttery and flaky, served warm from the oven along with a large luscious strawberry, the whole plate (silver spreader included) dusted with a light sprinkling of castor sugar and served with homemade mango salsa on the side. This continental commencement was followed by a more American intermezzo of lightly scrambled eggs, smoky bacon strips atop mildly hot handmade Italian sausage patties atop sautéed (almost caramelized) Granny Smith apple slices, served with buttery layered buns frosted with white and yellow cheddar swirls and sided with a fresh Arugula Salad with Grape Tomatoes and shaved Parmesan Reggiano. Desserts are not usually breakfast items, but Chef Van Arsdale’s are so delicious we seriously contemplated ending the meal that way. Instead, as we were so satiated, we happily settled for another cup of his rich Illy coffee. After all, discretion still is the better part of valor.
Dinner (by reservation only) will be served on Friday and Saturday nights. Chef Van Arsdale informs me that the menu will be pastas, salads and braised meats or other specials of the day. One thing you can be absolutely sure of, no matter what he serves, you’ll love the food at this charming new café.
4934 E. 1st Ave., Scottsdale. Phone: 480-970-7682.
LD, $9-$15
Caffe BoA
What started out as a very cozy storefront operation in Tempe now has a sister location, with a somewhat different personality. The original is a very comfy, tiny sidewalk cafe, while the Ahwatukee branch has somewhat bland decor, but a well-trained, friendly staff and often-thrilling food. Start out with a basket of warm bread, absolutely essential for the complimentary sun-dried tomato and yogurt spread. Although portions are large, the appetizers are too good to pass up. Two faves are the Tiger Shrimp swimming in an ultra rich wine flavored butter sauce with lots of garlic and lemon, and the Italian Sausage in a fresh tomato sauce with mushrooms, olives, garlic and garden fresh basil. There are various good-but-not-unique sandwiches (Panini) and salads (Insalata), but my money goes on the pasta. Pick one from the menu and you'll stay under $10, the daily specials hit much loftier sights. Here they have a more than passable version of Puttanesca, with that zippy olive and caper studded sauce, named after a lady of the night, covering a bowl of al dente Rigatoni. All the other sauces are even richer and creamier — and then there are the desserts! Note: dinner is not served on weekends.
5063 E. Elliot Road, Ahwatukee. 480-893-3331.
LD $6-$14+
Cheuvront Cheese and Wine Experience
No matter what your district or party affiliation, one visit and I’m sure you, too, will vote for Cheuvront. Even if you don’t raise funds, you’re sure to raise your libido with the likes of Poached Pear Salad, Lamb Roulade and the warm chocolate ganache cake, which is everything a chocoholic could desire in a dessert. A great selection of cheeses to go with a broad wine list. Lunch is not served on weekends.
1326 N. Central Ave., 602-307-0022, www.cheuvront.biz.
D, $6-$11 small plates; $18-$24 entrees, closed Sun. & Mon.
Citrus Cafe
Dennis Delamater, chef and co-owner, has brought to the Valley the concept of Les Petites Assiettes, the French equivalent to those famous tapas. From a large selection, some of our favorites are Curried Steamed PEI Mussels, Lamb Shank Cassoulet, Ris de Veau (sweetbreads) Dijonnaise, Pork Wellington, and Shrimp and Scallops Scampi. Save room for the Vacherin, a house specialty.
2330 N. Alma School Road, 480-899-0502.
D, $4-$11
Classic Italian Pizza
East Valleyites who love Chris Bianco's pizzas, but can't stand the parking and other problems of downtown Phoenix, can rejoice. They have Classic Italian, a simple and unpretentious venue for pies of superior preparation. To quote the menu, "our pizzas start with homemade dough prepared every day with fresh yeast and do not contain any preservatives. Our tomato sauce is made from whole tomatoes, which we hand-crush and blend with special spices. Each pizza is topped with fresh mozzarella cheese that we make here by hand. Finally, your handmade pizza is cooked in our wood-burning oven the traditional, Classic Italian way." The crusts are perfect — neither too thin to handle nor too thick to enjoy. Toppings, all first rate, include such classics as Toscana salami, Italian sausage, ground beef, onions, black olives, bell peppers and pepperoncini. Some more unusual combinations are comprised of tuna, smoked mozzarella, marinated and wood-roasted mushrooms, spinach, egg, Feta cheese and a fine imported ham. We enjoy the simplicity of a white Basil and Garlic pie with merely a slather of olive oil and the handmade mozzarella and the Solo Mia, a sort of breakfast pizza of ham, mushrooms, fresh egg and a dash of Italian herbs. The sectional presentation of the Four Seasons has quarters of black olives and artichokes, fresh tomatoes and Parmesan cheese, imported Italian prosciutto, and wood-roasted mushrooms, which make it four times as good. Three huge Calzones — Mushroom, Spinach, and Beef Sausage — don't stray more than a dollar from a ten-spot, and the Nizza Salad (one of four offered) is a visual and culinary work of art.
1030 E. Baseline Dr. (east of Rural Rd. under the clock tower), Suite 156, Tempe, 480-345-8681.
L, $6-$11, Mon. - Fri. unless there is a dog show
Crazy Jim's Restaurant
Crazy like a fox, that is. Fabulous Pizzas, terrific subs, ridiculously inexpensive Pasta Dinners, and incredible Salads — all in a miniscule space. Their Crazy Calamari Salad is at the top of my food pyramid.
301 W. Washington St., 602-254-6550.
LD; $2.75-26.50, 7 days a week
Crust Pizza and Wine Café
Wood-burning oven, check. Affordable, large menu, check. Stylish and comfortable, check and check.
There is by no means a shortage of little pizzerias sprouting up all over the Valley, though it’s the locally owned version that usually seems to have certain flair of distinction whether in the service, ingredients or atmosphere. Crust has created their own distinction with not only fresh ingredients, but in the way they are used. Starting with the White Bean and Tomato Tartar ($9) is a fresh and interesting choice. Plump cannelloni beans and a dice of tomato, served with pesto toast points set the tone for the rest of the satisfying dinner. The Tuscan salad ($7) could make for a meal in itself, served complete in a thin and crispy bread bowl. Arugula, white beans and tomatoes tossed in Italian vinaigrette are both refreshing and light. Be sure to ask for some Parmesan cheese with the salad, then be prepared to pass the bowl onto your dining mates, they'll love you more for it!
Is it an appetizer or a meal? It’s your choice when ordering the Meatball Sliders ($9). Three thick, generous balls covered in marinara and Romano cheese sandwiched between the cutest little buns.
Crust has on the menu what they call a Rustica. It’s essentially a giant free-formed slice of pizza, though it might take two hands to handle the meat version. The Meat Rustica ($8.50) has a slightly chewy and crispy crust. Topped with sausage, pepperoni, tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and finished with basil, it’s large enough to be served on a wooden board. If you want something a little easier to get your mouth around, the Rollatini's might be an interesting alternative. The Chicken Parmagino Rollatini ($7) takes strips of breaded chicken then packs them into a pizza crust with cheese, and then is rolled and baked into another two-handed feast. If you are more of a pizza-topping purist, then order the Rustica Bianco ($8.75). Four cheeses and roasted garlic make this simple slab an outstanding choice.
The menu is quite extensive, serving sandwiches, whole pizzas and even pizza by the slice. Crust does have a wonderful wine by the glass menu as well as a small beer menu. Be sure to make a party of it, the largest table can easily seat 12 and they take reservations.
6989 Hayden Road, Suite 9 (southwest corner of Hayden and Indian Bend Road), Scottsdale. Phone: (480) 948-3099.
D
LD, $4-$8, SV
The Dubliner Irish Pub
It may be a long way to Tipperary, but a trip to Dubliner is just around the corner for north Valleyites ... and already we're seeing red. Killians Irish Red, that is — a tall cold frothy glassful. And what would go better with your Boxty, I ask you? Dubliner is everything you think of when you think Irish pub. It's friendly, noisy and often crowded; has many choices of stouts, ales, lagers and other Irish liquid staples; numerous dartboards; and a kitchen that puts out some fine Irish vittles. The Traditional Irish Breakfast is as robust as it is cholesterol-laden, with piquant Sausages and Rashers along with Black and White Pudding, two eggs, and a trio of red ripe stewed plum. A pile of not-too-sweet baked beans adds visual interest, and two slices of homemade Irish Soda Bread with Honey Butter complete the very satisfying meal. Of the dozen noontime choices, only two might be found in a typical Dublin pub: Cumberland Banger Bap and Bangers and Mash. Both feature Cumberland Sausages and Fries — yummy Curry Chips, fries slathered with a pungent creamy curry sauce — are available by request (as are the fabulous Colcannon Irish Mashed Potatoes with garlic, butter, onions and scallions and a few lumps for good measure). Dinners come with the Irish Soda B&B, and are in portions big enough they don't need to come with anything else. I don't know if Fish & Chips is English, Scottish, Welch, or Irish, but a very competent version using buttermilk-battered true fillets of cod is on the menu. The meat in the Irish Stew tasted more like corned beef than the true corned beef. The large bowlful of stew was very flavorful indeed, with potatoes and veggies bursting with gusto and a heavenly gravy to tie it all together. The Guinness Chicken, an acquired taste to be sure, is an AYOR item. Try the Shepherd's Pie or one of the Boxties instead. Each has a base of meat and vegetables under a layer of mashed potatoes covered with a mantle of melted yellow and white cheeses. Desserts? None are offered, but you might try an Irish Coffee for a wee bit of a taste treat.
3841 E. Thunderbird Rd., Phoenix, 867-0984.
E
F
LD $2.25 - $18.99; Monday - Thursday 10:30am - 10pm, Friday - Saturday 10:30am - 11pm, Sunday 12pm - 10pm
Famous Lucky's Pizza: I Should be so Lucky
You'd think in recent times that being bitchy isn't such a good idea for the longevity of your restaurant. I’d much rather see a smiling, happy business owner than a scowling face.
What makes the scowling face worse is when everyone behind the counter at Lucky's Pizza was doing the same thing. Maybe the look is simply an East Coast thing, since Lucky's does serve N.Y. style pizza, calzones and sandwiches?
All the portions are huge and made from top quality ingredients you can taste. From the ample amounts of creamy ricotta to the stringy melted mozzarella and the melt-in-your-mouth, tender sausage, every bite is simple yet bursting with flavor.
During my last visit, I ordered the Sausage Calzone ($7.50) and gobbled the whole thing by myself. Now mind you, this thing is like a large pizza folded in half and can be shared pretty easily, but it was just so good!
Aside from the amazing ingredients, the crust was crispy, chewy and had all the characteristics of a great crust including flavor.
One of its house specials is the Lasagna Pizza ($15.99) which is slathered with ricotta, mozzarella, garlic and ground beef. This pie is pretty darn tasty and has enough heft to feed two to four big eaters.
Surly service is fine when the food is really good, which in this case it is. However, I’d really like this place more if the guys behind the counter could simply crack even the slightest smile.
Yes, I live in a world of smiles, rainbows and bliss — well, mostly.
15508 W. Bell Road, Surprise, 623-584-2203
LD, $7-$15
Fibber Magee's
Don't be intimidated by the pub atmosphere and the fact that nearly everyone has a glass of ale or stout sitting in front of him or her. This is an Irish drinking establishment, first and foremost, but they do have a creative menu backed up by a talented kitchen. The waitstaff is friendly like family (my server, Eoghan [pronounced ee on] sat at my table, extended his hand and said "Hi, I'm Eoghan." I shook his hand and said "I'm Bill." From then on, for the rest of the meal, he called me "boss." Go figure!) Sunday afternoons are a real treat when a musical ensemble, Irish Sessiun, performs impromptu in a separate corner of the dining area. A diverse group of all ages, they entertained all the patrons with a flute, concertina, fiddles, guitars and a banjo playing foot-stompin' instrumental folk and Irish classic music. Start your meal with a Basket of Bread: Irish Soda and Brown Breads served with Irish Butter. Simple ... and very satisfying. Harp Beer Battered (Northern Pacific Cod) Fish and (thick-cut) Chips (served with malt vinegar, tartar sauce and "mushy peas") will surely put you in the proper mood, as well as fill your innards with some mighty fine grub. Even if you don't like fish, the trio of Salmon Herbed Potato Cakes served with onion-flavored sour cream is a tasty winner. A little more avant-garde is the Guinness and Beef Boxty, although if you like beef and if you like potatoes, this is a safe choice. Shepherds Pie has many of the same ingredients, but is topped with their signature Champ (spuds mixed with onions and lots of butter) and cheddar cheese. This is a universally appealing dish (although I doubt Dr. Deithrich et al would recommend it). Somewhat healthier and just as tasty is the Corned Beef (sitting on a bed of Champ) and Cabbage, served with homemade mustard onion gravy. Bangers on a Bun has two plump Irish pork sausages on a toasted French roll filled with sauteed onions. The wieners are heartily spiced, and the onions sweet and mellow. Another must-have is the half roasted Chicken Stuffed with Brown Bread and sage dressing, under a slick of herbed pan gravy. A truly awesome assortment of food, the All-Day Irish Breakfast is available from opening to closing. It might take almost that long to finish all the Irish bacon, sausage, black and white pudding (delicious, but you really don't want to know what's in it), baked beans, grilled tomato, two fried eggs and grilled Irish soda bread you get for a piddling $10.95.
1989 W. Elliot Road (southeast corner at Dobson), Chandler, 480-722-9434.
LD, $5-$20+, closed Sun.
Fusion
Dinners are divine here, but lunches are jaw-dropping cheap! Wonderful Salads and Sandwiches are less expensive than the processed junk you get at your favorite coffee shop. Some evening favorites are Chorizo Stuffed Grape Leaves, Bourbon Blazed Black Tiger Prawns, Gorgonzola Rigatoni and Toasted Sunflower Seed Encrusted Seabass with Sage Gnocchi. Lunch is served Monday through Friday, Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday.
4441 N. Buckboard Trail, Scottsdale, 480-423-9043.
G
LD (late dinner), $5-$9
George and Dragon
This lively pub is the closest you will get to England without crossing the pond; and, pound for £, the food served here is certainly worth not having to make that trip! Although some of the British dishes — such as fish and chips, which here is done far better than Long John Silver's — might be considered American (and visa-versa), there are several items on the menu that would be pretty foreign to the average Joe, but not the average Nigel. Scotch Eggs would be a fine example. How many Phoenicians have had a hard-boiled egg surrounded with English-style sausage meat and breadcrumbs, served cold with a Branston pickle? Don't knock it 'til you've tried it! Cornish Pasties, a puff pastry pie of marinated ground beef and vegetables, can also be an appetizer or a savory entree. For those who don't fancy Steak and Kidney Pie, there is always a Chicken or Steak and Mushroom version, so their loss doesn't have to be complete. A tasty dish for those who have passed their heart test is Bangers and Mash, three pork sausages floating in gravy and grilled onions. Of the desserts, the Homemade Bread Pudding with Hot Custard is highly recommended, while the Chocolate Whiskey Torte with raisins, coffee, and dark and white chocolates is quite civilized.
4240 N. Central Ave, Phoenix. 602-241-0018.
LD, $8-$15, Closed Sun., SV
Giuseppe's Italian Kitchen
Yes, this tiny storefront strip mall restaurant does have daily chalkboard specials, a very friendly staff (you're family by the second visit — and Cindy amazingly will remember your name even months later), a fine Southern Italian cook, and prices like you used to pay a decade ago! The food is robust and hearty, with fresh and simple pasta dishes front and center. Take the Pasta with Roast Chicken/Green Chili (cream)/Sundried Tomatoes, the Gorgonzola/Sage or the ultra rich Spaghetti ala Carbonara — you can't go wrong. Gnocchi are finally on the menu, so you don't have to wait for this special dish to be a "special of the day" anymore. A delicious Veal Stew comes with pasta, but can be had with a medley of sauteed zucchini, mushrooms and asparagus in a hearty tomato sauce instead. Or try the Ribs Parmesan, ditto the pasta/veggie connection. Suppli (Rice Balls) can now whet your appetite on a regular basis, and the simple and elegant Prosciutto/Chevre/Olives/Roast Peppers plate should be declared a local treasure. A new section of Bruschetta choices adds more tasty appetizers or light lunch items. Limited, but yummy, dessert menu.
2824 E. Indian School Rd., Phoenix, 602-381-1237.
LD, $5-$10
The Golden Greek and Italian
Yes, the Italian's very good, but the Greek is far better at this westside hole-in-the-wall. The Taramosalata here will well reward the adventurous, and the Mousakas, Keftedes and Souvlaki will more than please the rest.
7126 N. 35th Ave. Phoenix 602-841-7849.
LD, $6-$11
Greek Patio
There are many reasons to try this very capable purveyor of tasty Mediterranean dishes. The setting is quite pleasant — bright and cheery — with lacey white curtains screening out the parking lot, and giant photo-posters of the Greek country- and seaside behind mullioned windows with big wooden shutters and there is one gem of a waitress among the staff. The most outstanding feature, though, is the food. Almost all of the dishes are made from scratch on the premises, and it's hard to find one of them that would warrant serious criticism. The Baba Ghannouj, redolent with fresh roasted eggplants, garlic, tahini, lemon and extra virgin olive oil, is as good as you can get anywhere this side of the Mediterranean. And, to gild the lily, they serve the thick, chewy homemade-style pita bread to scoop up every last bit. Odd shaped but delicious Spanakopita, delightful Maza Kabobs, and dramatic Saganaki (don't forget to chant "Opa! Opa!" as the lemon quenches its quick baptismal by fire) start the meal with style. A terrific Greek salad comps the Plates and Pastas. Entrees can be a Kebab (the Kifta is my favorite), Gyros, or Falafel Sandwich; a Plate with either fries or a mound of delectably nutty tasting Basmati Rice; or your choice from a handful of Pastas. Two unusual Plates I recommend trying are the Cornish Chicken, baked in a garlic lemon and wine sauce, and Kuba'd Mousil, a spicy meat stuffed Burgul cream of wheat and finely ground beef giant pancake (for lack of a better word), which is rarely found on local menus. Greek Patio serves some interesting Pasta combinations, too: Greek Spaghetti, Shrimp Myconos, and Linguine and Garlic Chicken all are very special indeed. A sweet ending is pleasing after savory entrees, and the two desserts made on the premises, Katafi and Baklava, can hardly be beaten.
402 E. Greenway Parkway (at 7th St.), Phoenix, 602-548-8155.
LD, $7-$20, closed Sun.
Greektown
George, the affable host, almost always greets his guests as they come through the door into his 7th Street restaurant, prolifically adorned with Greek murals. The ambiance is Greek homey, and you're sitting in George's garden awaiting a fine handmade meal. A wonderful beginning might include Melitsanosalata (you don't have to be able to pronounce these dishes to enjoy them), an eggplant dip; or a tart and tangy Taramosalata of carp roe (caviar) and potatoes bound with olive oil and lemon; or a Saganaki Flambeau with baked kefalograviera cheese that arrives at your table flaming.
For a light lunch you might want a Shrimp on the Greens or a Sausage Pita (with mushrooms, feta, and marinara sauce). Vegetarian alternatives highlight a pair of friends — phyllo dough pastries — Spanakopita and Tiropita. The former is filled with spinach and feta cheese, the latter with eggs and feta cheese. A heartier appetite might beckon Veal Greektown, with mushrooms and artichoke hearts in a white wine sauce; Capama of lamb in a cinnamony red sauce; or Sweetbreads in a piquant sauce. A cup of Greek coffee and a Baklava lend a sweet ending to a delightful experience. Lunch is not served on Saturdays.
8519 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-674-8881. Fax 602-674-8883.
H
L(late)D, $7-$15, closed Mon.
Harley's Italian Bistro
Huge stone columns boldly herald this trattoria on the street, while a sleek, open pizza kitchen and Rocco Pepino's colorful paintings adorning the tabletops define the interior. The antipasto list features two well-crafted dishes especially for Calamari fans: Fritti (fried with lemon and marinara) and Fra Diavolo (sauteed with tomatoes, herbs and crushed hot pepper). Pizzas also make a good appetizer, as proven by your favorite combination of the moment, based on a 12- or 16-inch cheese disk ($8-$10, with each addition adding a buck to one-and-a-half). The Penne al Salmone (penne pasta with chunks of salmon, fresh spinach, pancetta, cheese and herbs in a light cream tomato sauce) is a top entree, but the Tortellini alla Panna (meat and cheese filled tortellini swimming in the creamiest, richest Alfredo sauce imaginable) is amazing! Another exceptional dish, the Penne Arrabiate, has a plethora of housemade sweet Italian sausage slices sauteed with tomatoes and chili peppers in a garlic-enhanced olive oil, and then pan-tossed with the penne. Luckily, some of the fabulous crusty homemade-tasting (Willo Bakery) bread is left to sop up the sauce. Desserts are not to be missed. The ultra-smooth Spumoni (sans candied fruits and pistachios) is heavenly. Perhaps the best is a Cannoli, which takes a simple homemade crust and lowly ricotta cheese to lofty heights. While all of the dinner dishes are available at lunch as well, sandwiches, salads, pizzas and bar-type appetizers might be more apropos for the noon hour. For the avid eater, a Calzone of ricotta, mozzarella, salami, ham, tomato, Romano and Parmesan cheeses fits the bill (a $10.50 bill, that is). Lunch is not served on weekends.
4221 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-234-0333.
LD, $5-$14, closed Mon.
Haus Murphy's
Talk about musical restaurants! Haus Murphy's and Hoffman's at 57th (both Hoffmann owned) have combined forces (and menus) in the old Jacka's location, sort of halfway between both the old places. Here they have a charming patio, a large beer-hall-type room and a cafe facing the street. Now, if you're looking around town for a wurst, this Glendale antique has some of the best ... along with a stellar selection of veal, pork and even chicken schnitzels. We chose the Prager (topped with chopped ham and scrambled eggs) and the Paprika (with bacon and chopped onions in a spicy paprika sauce). Both were sensational. Don't miss their Red Cabbage, Spaetzle, and Homemade Sauerkraut as go-withs. From the 57th Street locale they have brought in things like Hackbraten, Venison (apple marinated medallions with a wild mushroom ragout), Gulasch, Sauerbraten and Beef Rouladen. I don't know when Gnocchi got to be German or Austrian, but you'd be hard pressed to find a better version in town than theirs with a heavy Emmenthaler Crème Sauce, bits of prosciutto and wild mushrooms. One night's Stuffed Cabbage special was yummy, and I loved the German Fried Potatoes that accompanied the pair of plump rolls. A good selection of German beers and wines.
5739 W. Glendale Ave., Glendale, 623-939-2480.
I
D, $6-$13, Closed Mon.
Il Posto
Those nostalgic for the Big Apple will salute the Statue of Liberty as they go left on Mulberry from Canal to find a courtyard complete with a clothesline sporting several garments, most notably a pair of bright red long johns. Be sure to "snoop" through the windows, too, for several amusing vignettes. The food is mostly based on Big Apple recipes (with Italian roots, of course!) Calamari is an excellent appeteaser, and plenty big enough to be shared by two to four. A variety of pieces are hand breaded and fried to a perfect golden color and proper crunchy texture. Pizza Brescia, another ideal appetizer stimulant, yields six thin-crusted wedges of pizza perfection. A faultless balance of cheeses and rich sauce is augmented with fresh garlic, mushrooms, artichoke hearts and piquant bits of prosciutto ham. Most entrees run under ten dollars. The Chicken Francese and the Chicken Marsala start with juicy and tender breasts, the former bathed in a delicate lemon butter sauce, and the latter in a luscious full-bodied wine sauce. An ocean full of crabs, scallops and shrimp are stuffed into pasta shells along with a trio of cheeses. Topped with mozzarella and cloaked in a rich Alfredo and a tomato infused marinara, this Seafood Manicotti is a pure delight. Eggplant Parmigiana is textbook perfect, being sliced thin and pan-fried to an obligatory crunchiness with the distinct taste of this Mediterranean vegetable coming boldly through. The Tortellini are sampled in two ways. The first, topped with marinara, allows the thin-skinned half-moon shaped pasta pillows to show off their delicious meat fillings. The Baked Tortellini, also meat filled, find themselves covered in a creamy mozzarella, and lazily floating in a silken Alfredo/marinara. Mama mia! This is gold in a bowl. In the Meat Lasagna, a virtual symphony of taste, every ingredient is clearly (and delightfully) apparent, both individually and in concert. Of the Desserts (not made on the premises), the Tiramisu stands out. Light and rich and creamy and, in the case of a recent meal, gone in a flash of four forks!
9832 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-870-4122.
J
K
L
LD, $5-$17+, closed Tues.
La Stalla
Paulo and Liza Vetrati make sure the family's traditional recipes — mostly from Mola di Bari — are strictly followed. Their Antipasti Bar is a must, and paired with a Capricciosa Pizza would make a full meal. There are several mind-blowing Entrees, among them Bavette alla Scoglio, Tortellini Panna Prosciutto e Piselli and Involtini di Vitello. End with Frutta di Bosco con Zabaione, but be warned it has enough Grand Mariner to make you blow a point-one!
68 W. Buffalo St., Chandler, 480-855-9990.
L weekdays; D Tue.-Sat., $8-$11
Lisa G Cafe Wine Bar
Coronado has recently been blessed with a number of small, independent restaurants, cafes and winebars popping up along its edges. The interior of the bungalow that houses this lunch (and now limited dinner) eatery has been sleekly but comfortably modernized almost beyond recognition. And Lisa herself, the accomplished and highly affable hostess and proprietress, makes sure you feel right at home. These are the extra niceties, but most folks go to a winebar for the food and the grape juice, and this is where Lisa G shines the brightest. Luscious Salads include a teriffic Steak (served warm) with green beans and blue cheese and an addicting Cranberry Chicken boasting mangos and hazelnuts. I never thought I would rave over a Veggie Sandwich, but hers had the sweetest blend of just tender grilled eggplant, portobello, zucchini and peppers melded in with herbed farmer's cheese and incredible homemade tomato jam, all served on crunchy golden grilled focaccia triangles. Another of Lisa's wonderful innovations is a trio of Mini Sandwiches. She suggests sesame-crusted Ahi with ginger and wasabi mayo, shaved beef Tenderloin paired with roasted red peppers and artichoke relish, and peppered juicy Turkey topped with bacon, tomato and radish sprouts smeared with chipotle-raspberry spread, but others are available for the mix. Super Desserts are offered, but if you must have just one, you'll return again and again for the Fallen Chocolate Souffle Cake, especially topped with a big scoop of homemade Blood Orange Gelato. Wines by the glass ($7-$11, in handsome oversized stems) or the bottle, from a carefully crafted list.
2337 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-253-9201. www.lisagwinebar.com.
M
LD, ($5.95-20.95)
Mamma Mia Original Pizza and Subs
While I'm not sharing much of my low carb journey with anyone, I am sharing the places that I can have something healthy, satisfying and affordable. While Mamma Mia makes an amazing thin and chewy pizza, you have to try their two slices and a Coke for $4 deal. They also offer a low-carb version. I bet you’re thinking this is going to have some weird off-taste? Well here is how it went down.
So, I asked, “There are only 10 grams of net carbs per slice?” "No, only 10 net carbs per 12" pizza!" Yes, sold!
The pizza has an amazing- tasting, super-thin whole-wheat crust covered in delicious Mamma Mia red sauce, ample cheese and juicy sausage for only $5.95. I also ordered 24 Buffalo Wings ($9.95), which made for another great protein source. The pizza crust was lightly crunchy on the edges and chewy in the middle. I loved the different textures as I worked through each bite. The wings were thick and meaty, and as I dunked each piece in ranch dressing, I almost felt guilty. However, you should never feel guilty about eating, it’s a pleasure! At Mamma Mia, I enjoyed every bite!
The owner told me he's lost 80 pounds low carbin', which is instant motivation to continue to stay the course with low carb eating and living. Mamma Mia's, I love you!
Two locations: 3937 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602- 508-0444, or 806 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, (602) 277-5512. Information: www.mammamiaphoenix.com
D, $11-$15+ Closed Sun. & Mon.
Michelina's Italian Cuisine
In our quest for little, inexpensive mom and pop restaurants, occasionally we become so enamored with a place outside our parameters, that we just have to write it up anyway. Michelina's is such a place. Actually it is more than a "place," it's an experience. So, instead of inexpensive, it's moderate ... but delivers full value for your money. And there are times when a pop is not necessary for a mom to do a sensational job, as is the case with Michelina DiSibio, chef extraordinaire! Sometimes it's worth the few extra bucks to have crisply starched napery, beaucoup bouquets and herbs and vegetables fresh from the chef's own garden. The multi-level space is divided into several intimate areas, although I have seen some festive occasion groups comfortably accommodated. The menu covers northern and southern Italy, with pastas and fine quality chicken, veal and seafood dishes, and a few steaks and chops thrown in for good measure. Usually I find reading the menu turns out to be a waste of time (although it is interesting reading) because as soon as I hear the specials I change my mind completely. Mostly the picks of the day are seafood oriented, with impeccably fresh fish and shellfish done to perfection (a much abused term elsewhere). However, I'm a real softy for Michelina's Osso Bucco, one of the best in town, and snap it up practically every time it's offered. Try to leave room for dessert, as these housemade versions are worth every calorie, especially the absolutely dreamy Fresh Fruit Zabaglione.
3241 E. Shea Blvd., Phoenix, 602-996-8977, Fax 602-996-9041
LD, $6-$13, SV
Mike's Rigatoni Bistro
With a menu of Italian and Greek cuisine, the ambiance is much more trattoria than taverna, but Mike does both with equal aplomb. While the ultra smooth Saganaki truly deserves an "Opa! Opa!," the Penne Alla Spetsiota demands the Italian equivalent. At least East meets West in the Greek Isles Pizza. The Lamb Yeeouvetsi is delicious, as is the Involtini di Polo. Whatever you do, don't miss the Chocolate Truffle. Formerly Mike's Grill.
8215 W. Bell Road, #125, Peoria, 623-979-0900.
L & D ($6.50 - $12.95), open seven days a week, Sunday – Thursday 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday – Saturday 10:30 a.m. – 10 p.m.,
My Greek Corner Restaurant
Every week, my bff and I attempt to try something new out in the land of Surprise. You know what they say, Surprise, it sucks.
My Greek Corner is the first fast food Greek place in Surprise and as of now, the only Greek fast food place. The menu is short and carries the basics, plus a few Italian and American favorites thrown in for good measure. We tried the Hummus Spread ($4.95) and the No. 4 Traditional Gyro Pita ($8.50). You always have to try the basics to best guess the rest of the menu. The hummus was so-so — I make pretty mean hummus myself and we were not impressed. While thick and hearty, it lacked any sort of garlic, salt or tahini flavor. It seemed like only chickpeas, and lemon juice. It was served with pita "chips," meaning they grease up some pita bread and bake it off. I could have broken a tooth if I weren’t careful. Hot and soft pita bread would have been much better with the hummus.
The Gyro Pita was fantastic and made up for the so-so hummus. It featured layers of tender, sliced gyro meat piled high on chewy flat bread, and then topped with delicious and creamy tzatziki, onions and tomato. The French fries that came with the combo were decent, and for the price seemed like a pretty good deal. Oh, that included a pop too, Pepsi products, yay!!
So if you're out in Surprise and have the taste for some Greek action, go ahead and pull on to the drive-thru and get some Greek to go!
13746 W. Bell Road, Surprise. Phone: 623-544-4040.
N
O
P
L, $8, Closed Sun.-Mon.
Pane Bianco
Chris Bianco has made his mark in the valley (and nationally) with his award winning addictive European-style thin crust pizzas topped with solely the finest and freshest ingredients available. Now, Chris and family have opened a take-out only stand (there are tables out front and neighboring Lux Coffee Bar will even let you sit at theirs — perhaps hoping you will purchase a beverage from them) where "pizzas and dinners will never be served." What do they offer? Sandwiches made with their own bread or focaccia, stuffed with picked-that-very-morning organic produce and imported meats and cheeses (except their housemade mild mozzarella), and salads made with the same parameters, the baked goods on the side. Of the four sandwiches, we were most impressed with the Soppressata (cured pork from Calabria, somewhat similar to prosciutto) With Aged Provolone & mellow Wood-roasted yellow and red Peppers, with fresh organic basil and a splash of imported extra-virgin olive oil. The whole equals the sum of its parts, and this whole was holy cow great. A close second was the Market Sandwich (changes daily), and we really lucked out with an ample portion of fine Italian prosciutto smothered under a heap of sweet wood-roasted onions. So simple ... and so very delightful. Tuna with a twist — this time made as the Sicilians would — studded with Calamata olive slivers, red onions and Italian parsley, and bound with lemon juice, sitting on a bed of Arugula and topped with a wood-fired pepper, is basic but much more than satisfying. A caprese salad is so elementary, all its components must be absolutely perfect or it is ruined. Trust Chris to assemble one with Tomatoes that actually taste like those fresh out of the garden do, homemade slabs of white Mozzarella (tastes like buffalo, but they don't state), and, of course, enough lovely organic basil to give it proper zest. Drizzle with extra-virgin and a few grinds of coarse-ground pepper, and viola! Perfection in a plastic box. (Yes, it is take-out after all.) So get out your best china, linens and silver, because when you get these babies home, they deserve special attention.
4404 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-234-2100.
D, $7-$18, Closed Mon., Lunch Tues. - Fri. 11-3
Papa Razzini's
This remarkable little trattoria really deserves a major review, which I hope to be able to do some day in the not-too-distant future. The food, service, atmosphere and prices all are deserving of lots of publicity. Fresh as an evening breeze (in Italy) is an Insalata Caprese with fresh mozzarella and tomatoes drizzled with extra virgin and garden fresh basil, a nice starter for dinner. Or, try the Grilled Portobello Mushrooms Antipasto, the caps marinated with Italian herbs and topped with melted mozzarella and a splash of balsamic vinaigrette. Pasta aficionados will adore the engaging simplicity of Bird's Nest, a tangle of angel hair sauteed with fresh herbs and garlic in extra virgin olive oil. The Fettuccine Al Modo Mio, with a blonde sauce of sour cream, mushrooms, eggplant and Parmesan cheese, makes a fine main course dish or one to share before an entree. If you like seafood as much as I do, you must order Papa's Zuppa Di Pesce, a heap of toothsome noodles smothered under a plethora of mussels, clams, calamari, scallops, shrimp and a baby lobster tail in a complex tomato sauce touched with garlic and white wine. Lunch is not served on weekends.
1825 E. Guadalupe Rd., Suite F-110, Tempe, 480-345-6560. Fax 480-345-6558.
LD, $8-$10, closed Sunday
Papa's World Famous Gyros and Shish Kabob
There are many reasons to go to this westside retreat, not the least of which are the savory Lamb Shanks served every day. Two big tender and meaty bone-in truncheons are gently oven roasted in a delightfully herby tomato sauce, which accompanies some of the best rice this side of Athens. And it even comes with a Greek salad and pita bread, all for under a sawbuck. Other winners here are the Gyros, Kefta-Ka-Bob, Grecian-style Baked Chicken and Shish-Ka-Bobs (beef, lamb, chicken and pork). Don't save room for the so-so Baklava, but do start your meal with an excellent Babaghanouj, Hummos Thini or tender Dolmades filled with ground sirloin of beef and rice. They also serve ribs and chicken from their barbeque pit, objects of my next trip there.
4935 W. Glendale Ave., Glendale, 623-915-2300.
LD, $6-$16+
Pasta Brioni
I don't know where they get them from, but the Brioni boys (there's a calendar full of them) sure are a bunch of lookers — and they play your table for tips like a fine violin. Men, women, young or old, it doesn't matter; they make it seem like you're the only one in the entire restaurant, which sometimes makes it a bad place to take your intended on a date. The food, however, is surprisingly good, with some nice creations listed on the ever-changing blackboard.
4416 N. Miller Road, Scottsdale, 480-994-0028. www.pastabrioni.com.
LD, $6-$11
Pasta Pomodoro
The prototype of this small chain opened its doors in May of 1994 — in San Francisco, a city renowned for gustatory delights. It is also a city where there is no lack of excellent Italian dining establishments, and one must be outstanding to survive the extreme competition. A few years ago Arizona got its first Pasta Pomodoro, and almost from the very day it opened it was filled with the throngs that habituate the booming Frank Lloyd Wright corridor of north Scottsdale. What's all the fuss about? Well, the food is so much better than the prices would indicate, it is hard to find this kind of bargain elsewhere. And, to sweeten the pot, the service is attentive, knowledgeable, and enthusiastic. What more, the ambience is clean and inviting; not too upscale for casual wear, but not too casual for the quality of the victuals. There is an open kitchen behind a small dining counter, a wonderful way for single diners to be entertained (and to meet others) while awaiting their fare. Oh, and did I mention the generous portions? Start your meal off with a simple but elegant Asparagi (tender spears bathed in lemon and extra virgin olive oil and accented with piquant shaves of pecorino cheese) or perhaps Cozze, a bowlful of two-dozen plump mussels steamed in their shells in an elixir of roasted garlic and white wine. Another winner is Polenta e Portobello, a melange of oven roasted diced caps (that had been marinated with an herbal bath) sitting atop the creamiest, cheesiest, softest bed of polenta imaginable, and we highly recommend the Tortellini en Brodo (Tortellini Soup). The next course could star homemade Ravioli, bulging with ricotta, spinach and Parmesan cheese, reposed in ultra-rich splendor in a Gorgonzola sauce, or Beef and Pork Tortellini in a Parmesan cream sauce full of teasers of prosciutto and sage. On the heavier side are Rigatoni Bolognese and Salsiccie, the former a ragout of beef, veal, pork, and mushrooms simmered in a complex herbed red wine sauce, the latter using mild Italian sausage in a fennel infused base of Chianti and tomato. Everyone's preference, however, hands down, was the Ravioli di Zucca, a platterful of ravioli filled with a puree of butternut squash, bathing in a pool of brown butter sage, topped with crisp fried sage leaves (also available as an appetizer). For an ending that is sensational, the Tiramisu is highly espressive and just lightly mascarponish. The Ricotta and Mascarpone Cheesecake is an utter delight (and an udder delight as well), with an amoretti cookie crust, a topping of pine nuts, and a lagoon of strawberry puree for further embellishment. Over the top with fudge ribbons and cappuccino ice cream and dark chocolate sauce and cake and almonds and other delectable goodies is a delight called Semifreddo.
16255 N. Scottsdale Rd. (in The Promenade, southeast corner of Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd.), Scottsdale, 480-922-8630. www.pastapomodoro.com.
L(late)D, $7+, SV
Patsy Grimaldi's Coal Brick Oven Pizzeria
When Ol' Blue Eyes sang about New York, New York, he undoubtedly had visions of one of Grimaldi's big pies glistening with homemade Mozzarella and tomato sauce, and scattered with Italian sausage, fresh mushrooms and perhaps Oven Roasted Sweet Red Peppers. You know, the ones with the thin crusts that get dark and toasty on the bottom. And he should have known great pizza since he and Grimaldi's both started out in Hoboken, NJ, right across the Hudson from NYC. To this day there's still that pizza joint in the Garden State, as well as one under the Brooklyn Bridge. But now there's a third one in Scottsdale! Why does this pie-thrower consistently win Zagat after Zagat for #1 Pizzeria in NY? Patsy says it's his special ovens, the freshest and best ingredients, and the skill of the chef. Pizzas bake in four to five minutes in the 1200 degree coal-fired brick ovens, where the Brooklyn trained pizza guys can turn out over 200 perfect pies an hour. Add on the toppings of your choice from a field of fourteen, most of which are just a buck or two. Of course, if you don't like pizza (or calzones), your only other choices are a salad or a dessert. The former, all Romaine, has a starburst of roasted sweet red peppers and some wonderful seasonal veggies in a zesty Italian-style vinaigrette that puts most everyone else's to shame. An antipasto is a greenish (and red and white) alternative. For a fabulous finale, the Homemade Cannoli is a must, although I wouldn't pooh-pooh the NY Cheesecake or the nine flavors of Brooklyn Italian Ices, including peanut butter and jelly! By the way, handsome and personable Leonardo (from Milan by way of Boston) gives excellent service.
3828 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-994-1100, www.grimaldis.com
BLD; $4-$6;
PieZanos
Have it your way, from the flavored crust to the sauce to the cheese to the toppings. The “it” can either be an individual Pizza or a Frittata (although the latter has no crust, just some beaten eggs laid on top of your cheese and topping choices). On the Pizzas, the house has come up with some pretty interesting choices, which you could even add to if you thought they were missing something good. Here the customer is always right. (Alka-Seltzer is sold next door for those who get too carried away with their newfound powers of choice.) Service is super-friendly.
4743 N. 20th St.; 602-955-4225.
LD, $8-$10, closed Sat.-Sun.
Pino's Pizza al Centro
Pino and Lucia Martino have a good thing going here (with branches in Italy and New York), but, despite the lunch crowds, this place deserves far greater acclaim than it gets. Physically it doesn't stand out from its neighbors, but they really mean it when they say, "We cook for everyone as if they were our own family!" And their family must have hearty eaters, because the portions are pretty hefty. There's really nothing fancy here, but everything we've tried — the pizzas, pastas, panini and insalate — has been way above par. Their stuffed pizza is the equivalent of a calzone; so one piece with a small salad makes for a very satisfying lunch. Probably the biggest surprise is that they make their own cannoli shells and stuff them to order, so they are delightfully crunchy when you get them. And, you can get them in two sizes, the small one giving all the taste and satisfaction of the big one, but with less than half the calories.
139 West Thomas Road, Phoenix, 602-279-3237. Fax 602-279-6299.
L&D ($5.69 – $10.99); 10:30 a.m. – 10 p.m., seven days week.
Pita Jungle
What's in a name right? I heard Pita Jungle and thought of some second-rate mall food court dive in the back corner — you know the one with the guy who has the really long armpit hair. A trusted food blogger, Seth Chadwick at Feasting in Phoenix, wrote a scrumptious review about Pita Jungle so I had to give it a try.
Well to my surprise and delight, PJ didn’t have one gnarly armpit hair! In fact, this PJ location is sleek, modern and enticing. The servers were all very attractive and their service very much fit the surroundings: clean, comfortable and friendly. The menu is filled with many Greek and Greek/Southwest hybrids; they even have a secret, unpublished menu, just ask about it.
Start with their creamy and satisfying Hummus ($4.79/5.69), dipped with hot, out-of-the-oven pita bread. Or go for the traditional Dolmades ($5.49), grape leaves filled and rolled with rice, tomatoes, onions and parsley for a light and delicious opener.
When I ordered the Medchilada ($10.95) off of the secret unpublished menu, the server warned me. He said he had only barely finished one, and that I may not be up for the challenge. I just looked at him and said "hello” with both of my hands motioning up and down the sides of my belly! With that, he smiled and placed my order though, I appreciated the warning. When it came out I was stunned, he wasn't kidding! This thing is humongous! Lavosh stuffed and nearly bursting with tender chicken breast, beans and cheese then adorned with more beans and cheese, it is a sight to behold and to taste. It comes with a side of brown rice that’s moist and flavorful, as well as pico de gallo and the famous cucumber yogurt sauce tsatziki.
The server was right about one thing — I couldn’t finish it. But tomorrow is another day.
4340 E. Indian School Rd., Phoenix. Phone: 602-955-PITA (7482) Internet: www.pitajungle.com.
L&D; ($7.95-$12.95 — $24.95 for big pizzas),
Monday through Thursday — 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday — 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. (closed Sundays)
Pizza A Metro
A little Circle K strip houses a couple small and rather shady looking stores with heavy bars hiding all the merchandise displayed in the windows. But tucked away in the eastern most corner, so out of place you might of thought it fell from the sky and dropped on a witch, is Pizza A Metro: Cucina Italiana.
Right off the bat, you could tell that this wasn’t just a regular pizza joint — this was authentic — a Cucina. And despite it being lunch, we went crazy ordering food. The Salads and Antipasti sections were equal parts foreign and familiar. They carried Fried Calamari ($7.95) and also an intriguing Calamari alla Griglia ($7.95), or Grilled Calamari, which is grilled with herbs and olive oil.
The rest of the menu was broken down into Pastas (with a special category for homemade pasta), Secondi, Pizza and Crostone (a Sicilian open-faced sandwich). While I have to confess the pizzas are phenomenal with their super-fresh ingredients, and tangy and sweet tomato sauces on hand-tossed dough, I was infinitely more intrigued by the pasta.
With nothing costing more than $8.95, there are 15 different and delectable pasta options. The Homemade Pastas (all $8.95) were as tender as they were flavorful. The Veal Cannelloni and Cheese Ravioli both come with your choice of sauce. Torn between white and red, the server suggested we try a combination sauce that sounded something like Ponderosa. The creamy, almost orange sauce was just light enough to compliment the rich but mild flavor of the flakey veal filling. After a few bites, I wanted to take another one home for later. Again, I had to stop myself from asking for some more bread to dip in the delicious sauce.
Like I said before, the pizzas are phenomenal and may even rival those of Chris Bianco. They come in nine varieties, including Margherita, Meatball, Romana and Vegetarian and in sizes ranging from small to the 39-inch Metro. And while I didn’t try it for lunch, I did go back the next day for a small hand-tossed Saporita. The pizza was a perfect size for myself, topped with tomato, mozzarella, sausage and rapini (a common Italian vegetable that resembles broccoli).
Despite being completely stuffed and taking home leftovers, we couldn’t pass up the homemade Tiramisu.
Each bite was light and fluffy, delicate and whipped with the familiar taste of Kahlúa, not at all dense and sugary like the stuff you usually find. It was a perfect ending to a rather decadent lunch.
2336 West Thomas Road, Phoenix. Phone: (602) 262-9999.
Pizzeria Bianco — Zagat chose this place as the best restaurant in the Valley. We thought that might be pushing it a bit, but then Gotham food writer Ed Levine proclaimed Chris Bianco’s pies to be
the best in the USA! Go, brave the crowds, and judge for yourself. You’ll agree, the thin-crust fresh-ingredient pies Chef Bianco puts out surely rank him with the most upper-crust around. The rest of the menu is very limited and the waits can be almost intolerably long, but the setting in Heritage Square is magical, and the mozzarella and focaccia, made in house, are as good as it gets. The wood-fired oven also does wonders for his oven-roasted veggies.
623 E. Adams St. (in Heritage Square at 7th St.), Phoenix, 602-258-8300.
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L(Late)D, $2-$5, SV
Restaurant Samarkand
Motik and Sam have brought a bit of Russia to north Phoenix in this tidy and clean storefront. By Russian, we mean the food of Uzbekistan, a former part of the Soviet Union, lying roughly north of Afghanistan and east of the Caspian Sea. The cuisine is somewhat of a marriage (okay, civil union) between European and Middle Eastern. The prices are so low, you might think they are a joke. However, the portions are a bit diminutive to match. Of the Soups, the Borscht is tasty, but the Pelmeny is heavenly. Under the same heading is Samsa, which is not a soup at all, but a baked meat knish, which would be a fine accompaniment to those or, perhaps, the Lagman or Shurpa. We loved the Mushroom Salad, one of eight such side dishes. The Funchoza, a mix of Chinese noodles and peppers, and the Salany of marinated eggplant and cabbage sound provocatively exotic for my next meal here. Eleven Shish Kebabs represent the meat(s) of the meal. At what they charge, a pair would certainly be in order. I had the Shrimp, five medium grilled ones, at only four bits per crustacean, and a pair of delicious little loin Lamb Chops, good to their tiny bones. Lola, a grind of meats, is a fine kebab, as is the Chicken Wings. Both skewers together can be had for less than a five spot. There are even Salmon and Capitan (a kind of fish) kebabs. No desserts are listed on the menu, but I didn't ask, either.
7823 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-331-9151.
D, $7-$17, closed Monday - Wednesday, SV
Ritter's Chalet
Being in the heart of the Youngtown/Sun City area, many of the Inn's customers are senior citizens. For the most part, they appreciate good food, but don't want to spend a ransom to get it. Decor doesn't seem to be of paramount interest, but there is a dance floor that never gets dusty, since the locals often put on quite a show. Coy Williams, the live entertainer who pumps out ballads nightly, has a smooth voice and style that far exceeds our expectations. And so does the food ... if you stick to the German selections, all of which come with soup or salad and your choice of mashed or baked potato, fries, potato pancakes or spatzle, along with red cabbage, sauerkraut, or vegetables. Aside from the daily specials, there are ten such dishes on the menu; four of them being schnitzels of veal, pork and chicken. No German appetizers are offered; others show varying degrees of success. Soups are a mixed bag, but an everyday salad is perked up with an opulent blue cheese dressing or an intense raspberry vinaigrette. Knockwurst and bratwurst, both basic Teutonic fare, are paired in the Bavarian Schlachtplatte. This is not the innocuous knockwurst one usually comes across, but bursting with flavor ... and natural juices. The bratwurst is not over-spiced, but instead has a hint of liver that is quite appealing. The accompanying potato pancakes are lightly crispy on the edges, with moist and flavorful interiors, and the red cabbage is perfectly balanced between sweet and tart. The Jager Schnitzel, a golden fried slab of breaded filet of pork, is fork tender, very palatable, and practically covered with a blanket of dark onion and mushroom sauce, which comes in handy with the rather neutral-tasting buttered spatzle. Add a little wine to the sauce and substitute slices of Roasted Ribeye for the pork, and you have Wiener Rostbraten — and a very tasty one at that. Roll the beef around a stuffing and change the gravy, and voila! Beef Roladen, a Tuesday special). Sides are a delicious oven baked large potato half and a pile of sweet sliced carrots simply cooked with butter and dill. Sauerbraten is a tricky dish to cook without the beef filet drying out. Here the sauce is enticingly tangy, but the meat only partially escapes its predicted fate. The Pork Tenderloin is moister, but its gravy is not as exotic. It is quite compatible with the sauerkraut, which is generally mild and lightly sweet. Both meats are served in ample portions. Leberkase is like a meatloaf of pork and veal, but ground to a much finer degree. Slices of this pate-textured loaf are then pan-browned and topped with a fried egg. This is a great dish for the neophyte of German cuisine, as well as the more experienced. Fill up on your entrees, deserts are all dispensable.
13232 N. 111th Ave., Youngtown, 623-933-6023.
L(late)D, $7-$18
Romeo's Euro Cafe
How hidden is this place? Not nearly as much as it used to be. Now you can enter the restaurant directly from the outside, without having to wend your way through a coffee house and down a corridor behind a dry cleaners. You just have to know that the entrance — and lots of free parking — is at the back of the building. We actually would gladly go through hoops to eat here, since practically every dish on the 200+ item menu is a gustatory delight. Almost all the items are made from rather complex recipes with too many ingredients for our meager space allotment, so I will just list the names of some of my favorites. Four of the best Appetizers are Eggplant Capri, Mushrooms Meteora, Baked Bleu Tomatoes and Spicy Lamb Potatoes. Under Fillo I would choose Filomousaka or Fillo del Mar, under Poultry my preference is Chicken Vasco de Gama. The Ravioli Euro Paeus, under Pasta, is to die for, as is the Sherry Cranberry Pork, one of the Featured Entrees. Eggplant lovers get an entire section of the menu. For me it stars Andalusian Baked Eggplant, a real winner. For lunch (or dinner, if quantity or price must be diminutive) the Asparagus Chicken has been one of my all-time favorite Pitas, the Transylvanian a perennially adored Pocket Sub, and the (deep fried) Ravioli Salad sets the standard anywhere. In addition, there are Subs, Salads and Burger Subs. Since they no longer serve pizzas due to space considerations, there are no dishes left giving homage to Nick Ligidakis. That's really a shame since Nick, the founder of Golden Pizzeria, was the inventor of many of Romero's original recipes, including their various award winning cakes and pastries, showcased in two refrigerated cases at the entrance. These feature billions of calories that must be seen (and tasted, of course) to be appreciated. Most of the cakes and pies are way beyond extraordinary — fabulous easily comes to mind!
207 N. Gilbert Road (4 blocks north of Elliot Road in Heritage Court), Gilbert, 480-962-4224. www.eurocafe.com.
LD $8-$15
The Rose and Crown
While we mourn the loss of Circa 1900, one of our favorite restaurants that just couldn’t survive the tricky (OK, fickle) downtown scene, we are pleased with the British Pub that has taken over their historic downtown bungalow. Although to some British cuisine is an oxymoron, this chef is out to prove otherwise. Start with the Swanley Sliders, seasoned roast beef, thinly sliced and topped with pesto mayonnaise served on petit garlic and onion rolls with a rich au jus sauce for dipping, and you’ll see what we mean. We had a pretty decent Reuben Classic, but recommend the Pies and entrées more for dinner. Bangers and Mash is a winner here, as is a most credible Fish and Chips. Black(ened) or Blue (Cheese) Sirloin may not be English, but it is tasty … and weighs in at three-quarters of a pound. They serve Shepherd’s and the Fisherman’s versions, both filled with savory ingredients: the former with a dark gravy on the side, the latter with a rich white cream sauce inside. Even the al dente asparagus spears served with were fresh, tender and extremely tasty. Desserts are an afterthought so far, and can be gotten in your nearest market’s frozen foods department. Have a pint instead.
628 E. Adams, Phoenix, 602-256-0223.
LD, $5-$11
Rosie McCaffrey's
You'll be hard pressed to find a livelier, noisier or more friendly place in all of central Phoenix. This Irish pub is a whirlwind of activity, and the drinks flow and flow and flow. When it first opened, I tried the food and found it to be quite lackluster. Recently I've heard several reports to the contrary, and decided to confirm (or not) the good news. Well, either Rosie got a new chef or the old one learned a lot in the last few years, but I'm happy to report the kitchen is now up to snuff. Good Appetizer choices would be the Harp-Soaked Wings (even the mild have a minor jolt) and Patrick's Irish Potato Skins, topped with corned beef, cheddar and chives. Worth a pop, though not even a little bit Irish, is Molly Malone's Steamed Mussels, in white wine, garlic and herb butter. Some of the main-dish Salads are totally enjoyable, especially for lunch. Try Kathleen's Bleu (chicken, bleu cheese, walnuts, apples and chives), the Marinated Grilled Steak or the Calamari Salad. There is a good selection of Burgers, Sandwiches and Wraps, many with Irish names, but few with Irish ingredients. For heartier appetites, the Fish-N-Chips are tastily Harp battered, and the Mickey Ward's Pot Roast is delicious, even if it's not "just like Mom made!" Mom would never have used sliced beef in a pot roast. The Shepherd's Pie is such a delight to look at; you hardly want to spoil the pretty picture by eating it. Do. You'll love it. You'll also be amazed with the fabulous meat loaf, Irish style. The mixture of ground beef, corned beef, bacon, potatoes and soda bread, tossed with cheddar cheese, caramelized onions and some interesting spices make this loaf a world apart. Desserts are certainly not an afterthought here. In fact, do plan on having at least one. It's really hard to pick a favorite from among Granny McDonnell's Apple Dumpling, Clare's Chocolate Seduction Cake.
906 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-241-1916.
LD, $6-$15+
Rúla Búla
If you like this food much better than your average Irish joint, it's because many of the recipes are of "Country House" cuisine — French influenced cooking for the Anglo-Irish gentry living in the grand manor houses. Begin with a bountiful bowlful of Cockles and Mussels, go on to Dublin Stewed Pork and finish with their sensational Irish Bread Pudding.
401 S. Mill Ave, Tempe, 480-929-9500. Fax 480-929-9506.
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BLD, $5-$8.50, Cl Sun
Sapna Café
Everybody’s got to have an angle … and Sapna has a triangle of a space. The pie-shaped dining room cleanly painted white with the entrance at the apex holds only a few tables, but the small kitchen can only handle a modicum of diners at a time without making the waiting period too long to be comfortable. This café is tagged by the owner as “Culinary experiences of a globetrotter,” but basically the Mediterranean countries are the ones represented, here by the likes of Grilled Paninis, Ratatouille, Puttanesca and Quesadillas. Of the latter, I can vouch for the Brie and Onion Marmalade version, and I loved the Moroccan Eggplant and Garbanzo Salad, tossed with couscous in a tangy dressing. For breakfast one morning, a Calcutta Egg Roll hit the spot. Rolled in a soft tortilla was an omelet topped with tomatoes, onions, carrots, peppers, cilantro and a touch of chili to give it a bit of extra zip. It was yummy. A real surprise was one night’s special, a Casserole of Butternut Squash brimming with pine nuts, tomatoes, zucchini and onions, then topped with toasted bread crumbs and Feta crumbles, that was so good this carnivore scrapped the plate clean. A different cake is made daily my day happily had one of mangoes, dates and apples, a perfect foil for the Moroccan Mint Tea.
1301 NW Grand Ave. (in Bragg’s Pie Factory building), Phoenix, 602-254-6726.
D, $24-$40+, closed Mon.
Sassi
If I can review Sassi in two or three sentences, I should at least get a Pulitzer! In a $10 million compound atop Pinnacle Peak, a very professional staff serves country Italian foods in spectacular rooms and patios with incredible views. The food is fresh, vibrant and eclectic, and the menu goes on for days, with specials to boot, at prices so reasonable they will amaze you. This not only is a restaurant, but a destination, with far too many fantastic dishes to attempt to itemize.
10455 E. Pinnacle Peak Parkway, 480-502-9095, www.sassi.biz.
LD, $5-$9, SV
Sauce
This is the first in Phoenix of what is bound to become a very successful chain of restaurants. Owned by the Fox Restaurant Concepts, who also did Bloom and North in Scottsdale, this simply titled eatery has it all: a great contemporary look, excellent service (especially for a semi-self serve) and marvelous chow, baby! The menu is quite simple, with two Desserts, three Pastas, four Panini, six Chopped Salads and 10 Pizzas, yet each is so intriguing you'll want to try everything. The Cheesecake and the Tiramisu would still be reasonable at twice their $4 price. I can't comment on the Baked (Chicken, Beef, or Vegetable) Lasagnas, except that they looked tempting on the neighboring table. I can, however, vouch heartily for the well-proportioned Portobello, Eggplant, Artichoke, Goat Cheese, Spinach & Caramelized Onion Panini, including the homemade bread and the thin, savory chips. The Chopped Salads are delicious, and generous for the price, but even the Chicken, Pine Nuts and Gorgonzola might leave a growing boy hungry if attempted solo. The Mozzarella, Tomato & Basil rendition had balls (white and red, to be precise), with a delightfully assertive vinaigrette, and we also admired the Spinach, Pancetta and Goat Cheese. But don't even think of dining here without trying one of the best pizzas in this or any other town. First of all, the crust is thinner than a saltine cracker, and nicely crisp and browned. Then, the toppings are all first rate and garden fresh. Get together with your friends and try my three favorites: Rosemary Potato, Spinach, Feta & Olive Tapenade; Wild Mushroom and Truffled Arugula; and Roasted Eggplant & Hummus. Has Chris Bianco met his match? You tell me!
PS — A great selection of bold wines, by the huge glassful or the bottle, plus a few imported and microbrewery beers.
742 E. Glendale Ave., Phoenix, 602-216-2400. Fax 602-216-2404.
LD, $6-$11, closed Sunday
Slice of Sicily
A classic American version of an Italian trattoria, this family owned and run casual eatery serves terrific food for the money. Atmosphere is really not a part of the deal, so don't expect much in that area. Pastas are served with thick and tomatoey or thick and cheesy sauces, which originated that very morning in their own kitchen. Pizzas are New York style, with nice thin crusts and plentiful toppings. Generous portions mean that the Anti Pasta Salad at $6.95 will more than adequately serve four as an appetizer. Entrees include dishes of chicken, shrimp and eggplant, but not veal, since they top out at $10.95. Try the Stuffed Eggplant Parmesan, the Chicken Marsala or the Chicken Romano. You'll be quite impressed.
3724 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602-667-3331.
LD, $7-$10+, Closed Sun.
Sonoma Casual Dining
If every neighborhood had a restaurant like this, eating at home would be obsolete! Tempe's former Sonoma Rotisserie's owner RJ Ray, an energetic and charming host, has here been replaced by his mother, Bonnie Ray, an equally energetic and charming hostess, who will make you feel right at home at this recently opened venue. Along with the famous Rotisserie Chicken (choice of four distinctive sauces), their Central Coast Pizza, Lemon and Dill Grilled Artichoke, Penne Rustica, Skillet Chicken Carbonara and Banana Phyllo dessert are proof positive that for the price, you can't get better food anywhere else in town.
25 W. Van Buren St., Phoenix, 602-252-3858. Fax 602-252-3655. www.sonomaaz.com.
LD, $6-$10+, Closed Tues.
Stari Grad
Gary and Damira have brought food from the eastern shore of the Adriatic Sea (Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia) to this north Phoenix bar that is well worth a visit. Nothing is fancy, but the dishes are hearty and deliciously filling. The menu is small (and yet a little disorganized), but you'll love the stew-like Corba, a thick potage loaded with beef, mushrooms, veggies and potatoes; Cevapi (snappy little sausages) that come with homemade bread, goat cheese, ajvar (red peppers), onions and sour cream; and a fine (Vienna? The spelling here is comical) Schnitzel that melts in your mouth. Both the Kebabs (Raznjici) and Beef Pattie (Pljeskavica, which is more like a pounded steak) are tasty, but the steak in the Mixed Meat Platter (a substitution for the listed T-Bone, I must admit) was tough as shoe leather, so I can't truly recommend it, although the fries were terrific. The Mixed Sour Salad (Mjesana Kisela Salata) is a super starter or a great side dish. An okay Banana Nut Cake was the only dessert offered.
15044 N. Cave Creek Road; 602-569-2736.
LD, $6-$20+
Sweet O Wine and Chocolate Lounge
In the shadow of Jobbing.com Arena in Glendale's new Westgate Center sits one of the sweetest concepts of consumption in the Valley. The Sweet O name refers to the origin of wines and chocolates in their pure forms, unmixed with others of their ilk. Did you know that chocolate made in different parts of the world has distinct individual flavors? Here you can have various Chocolate Flights much the same as Wine Flights. Theirs are a trio of chocolates and a small glass of a well-matched wine or dessert wine. I like the C-4, Grenada 60%, Madagascar 64%, Venezuela 70% and Graham's Tawny Port (Portugal) Aged 10 Years, for $15. We also made a meal out of two stunning appetizer platters, one called Salumi, the other titled Scottish Smoked Salmon Blinis, $22 and $12 respectively. The meats included Spanish Serrano Ham, Duck Prosciutto, Sopressatta, Besaola, Duck Salami and Lomo Embuchado Entero, served with lots of Country and Walnut Raisin Breads, a crisp lavosh-type cracker bread, Baby Greens and Cornishons. The lox of the second plate was artfully presented atop a fat grilled blintz with a dab of Crème Fraiche covered with a sprinkling of green and purple sprouts. Of course all this food didn't stop us from sampling "The Bomb," a dome of Dark Chocolate Mousse hiding a Marinated Cherry and Crème Brulee center, all sitting on a fabulous Crisp Hazelnut Crust. I hate to admit it, but the selection process took quite some time, with all the goodies on the menu and in the cases. The good part is all the delectable looking gems we've yet to try.
9380 W. Westgate Blvd., Glendale; 623-877-3898, www.sweetolounge.com.
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D, $4-$20+, Closed Mon.
Tapino Kitchen and Wine Bar
Owner/Chef James Porter has great ideas for his recipes as well as his customers, with frequent special events and promotions. Indulge in the Mussel Soup with Sherry, Grilled Pancetta Wrapped Gorgonzola Stuffed Dates, Portobello Wellington and Braised Kurabuta Farms Pork Belly, with affordably priced wines available by the glass, flight and bottle. The Cardamom and Apple Beignets with chunky Praline Ice Cream, are perhaps even better than Cafe du Monde's.
7000 E. Shea Blvd.,Scottsdale, 480-991-6887.
D, $8-$20+, closed Mon. Brunch Sun. 11-3.
Tastings Wine Bar and Bistro — Indies are few and far between in Avondale, and this new one raises the bar considerably. Tasteful décor, low lighting, a baby grand player piano (style and songs a la Eddie Duchin), a comfy fireplace-facing seating group and even little details like the quality cutlery let you know at first glance this place has class. Fortunately, the food retains the high level set by the physical plant. Olive focaccia in the breadbasket and a bottomless bowl of kalamata and imported olives are complimentary … and a compliment to the dedication of the staff. The lunch menu has the usual salads and sandwiches, but also features more haute cuisine like Cold Honeydew Melon Soup with Raspberry Sauce and Crème Fraîche (at a mere $3 a cup), Tastings’ Tuna Tartar with Ginger and Wasabi Aiolis in an English Cucumber with Crème Fraîche and Sevruga Caviar (still modest at $10), and Open-Faced Lobster Sandwich on a Baguette with Cilantro Aioli, and Chayote Slaw ($18). At dinnertime just reading the diverse menu will bring on delirious delight. Start with (choice of two of the following three sausages) Wild Boar with Cranberries, Rabbit with White Wine and Herbs and Venison with Merlot Wine and Blueberries served with a Syrah Red Wine Vinegar Reduction ($12). Next course would be a Hearty Tuscan Bean Soup ($5), followed by a bold Truffle Ragu with plump Shrimps, huge Scallops, toothsome thick pasta, Shallots and Garlic, in a spicy red sauce ($16). If the Crustless Lemon Curd Pie is on the menu, it’s a perfect ending: a little sweet, a little tart, light as air and dreamily creamy ($8). Coffee is rich and satisfying and poured endlessly ($3).
1809 N. Dysart Road, #106 (north of McDowell Road), Avondale, 623-536-6600. www.tastingswb.com.
D, $14-$18+
Tesoro Ristorante
Philomena and Anthony Di Franco had been providing homestyle Italian food to the south Scottsdale neighborhood for a number of years at their venerable Molise Cucina Italiana, named in honor of their former home on the Adriatic between Rome and Naples. A few years ago a couple from Vicenza, initial proprietors of Cafe 25 (named in honor of their 25th anniversary), sold their tiny McCormick Ranch restaurant/gelateria to the Di Francos, who, with the help of family, ran both places. Now the two have been combined into Tesoro Ristorante, a mid-sized trattoria north of Scottsdale Ranch. I like to begin a meal here (as I used to at Molise) with Trippa, slow cooked with tomatoes and diced vegetables. The Caprice is as lovely to look at as it is tasty. They make an excellent Lasagna, wonderful Ravioli stuffed with artichoke and mushrooms, divine Gnocchi in a tomato-cream sauce with sage, both meat Cannelloni and ricotta and spinach Crespelle (try finding those elsewhere), and a devilishly good Penne Puttanesca. There are many traditional dishes where they give you the choice of chicken or veal ($3 extra), and an awesome Veal Osso Buco won't send you to the poorhouse. Unfortunately, there is no room at the new place for the gelato machines, but they promise they will serve someone's in the near future.
11219 E. Via Linda (southwest corner at Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd.), Scottsdale, 480-767-1990.
LD $5-$7
Tony’s Mamma Mia Express
If you thought the original Mamma Mia at 40th Street and Indian School location is small, you should see the postage stamp sized new storefront at 8th Street and Indian School, Tony’s Mamma Mia Express. No, they don’t have the entire menu of the original (no Lobster Ravioli or Mussel Marinara, unfortunately), but they do have really good salads and appetizers, pizzas, hot and cold subs, Calzones and Stromboli. Did I mention the pizza? I really can’t say enough nice things about their pies, especially my favorite, the 12-inch low carb pizza (only 10 grams of carbs for a personal pie), with its unusual and delicious wafer thin whole-wheat crust. The one I got the other day had nice fennelly sausage, roasted red peppers, fresh basil and lots of cool ricotta cheese ($7.45). Dieting never tasted so good. Pair that with an antipasto salad (ham, pepperoni, salami, tomatoes, provolone, artichokes, roasted peppers and black olives) and someone to share it with, and you both have a terrific low carb high taste dinner. If you’re not watching your carbs (or calories, for that matter), the Meatball Sub is hot and hearty.
806 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, 602-277-5512. www.mammamiaphoenix.com.
D $12-$23+
Trente Cinq 35-- Lionel (pronounced Lee´•oh•nel) Geuskens has always liked to cook. Even since he was just a young boy in Liege, Belgium, his ambition was to open his own restaurant by the time he turned 35. Having moved to Phoenix in 1996, he took a job as chef at Coup des Tarts, a small bistro in a cottage on 16th Sreet., just south of Camelback. For eight years Lionel quietly put out exquisite dishes behind the scenes, while the owner basked in the glory. Finally he found a small space on Seventh Street., bordering on the Coronado neighborhood, and spent months of hard labor (and lots of his savings) on remodeling the old storefront into a clean, contemporary study in black and white.
Our party of eight, five of whom speak fluent French, did a major job of tasting practically every dish on the menu one night. And the newly organized kitchen, to their profound credit, was able to serve our table (and a few others) without hesitation, all dishes of each course coming out simultaneously. Many seasoned chefs at smaller restaurants have problems accomplishing this feat. There are only eight appetizers ($4- $12) and eight entrées ($14-$20 + $25), but few are simple to prepare. With only one helper, chef Lionel is wise not to get over ambitious with his offerings. Aside from four straightforward but delightful ‘Salade,” the appetizer menu is intricately and expertly prepared. For example, the Boulettes is a mix of greens topped with four savory meatballs in an intensely tomato infused sauce nuanced with fresh herbs and spices.
Of course the appetizers are just a hint for the wonderful things to come. Like the Moules au Vin Blanc (the national dish of Belgium), a bowlful of plump mussels that had been steamed in a delicate white wine sauce, served with a side of fluffy coated fries and homemade mayonnaise for dipping. One other dish comes with those delicious fries, is the fine-grained Steak au Poivre, slathered with an only slightly biting green peppercorn sauce. To accompany you and your food on your journey though Belgium is a select, reasonably priced wine list, and four imported bottled beers. And while all good things must come to an end, be sure to end on a sweet note and experience one of the Lionel’s rich and decedent deserts.
2333 N. 7th St Phoenix 602-254-0244
D ($5-18), Tuesday - Saturday 5-10 p.m.,
Tuck Shop
Tuck Shop is a culmination of various elements that I love good design, art and great food.
From a large group of friends to a romantic dinner for two, Tuck Shop has something for everyone.
The idea is to share plates among a group of friends, though you can easily put together a traditional three-course meal if that is what suits you. The word to best describe the menu would be eclectic, with Creole, French and Spanish twists. There are three menu sections to choose from: Start, Smaller Plates and For Sharing. The menu is accessible and interesting.
Starting things out, Patatas Bravas ($5) are classic tapas. However, the Tuck version turns potato cubes into long thick planks served alongside two dipping sauces.
Working into the Smaller Plates menu, the Mac and Cheese with Crispy Prosciutto, topped with breadcrumbs and lobster ($12) was sublimely creamy and tender.
For sharing, the Citrus-Brined Fried Chicken ($17) was a sight to behold. Alongside was a large white cheddar waffle, slathered in maple butter and a bowl of pork-laden collard greens.
The stars are aligned for the Tuck Shop. With all of their elements in near perfect cohesion, this is one of the coolest and freshest places to eat, drink and of course, share.
2245 N. 12th Street, Phoenix. Phone: 602 354 2980. Information: www.tuckinphx.com.
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BL(early)D, $10-$14
Vincent Market Bistro
The internationally famous Vincent Guerithault has now added a charming Gallic Provençal petit cafe to his 40th Street and Camelback conglomeration, where you don't need to mortgage the old homestead to have a fine Breakfast, Lunch or early Dinner (they close at 6pm, 3pm on weekends). Start your day off with a three-ingredient custom Omelet or a Warm Pear Tart with Vanilla Sauce ($6 & $4.50). At noontime, a Pissaladiere (onion tart) with Mesclun Greens or perhaps a dish of Pate au Pistou (basil pasta with pesto, $7.50 each), followed by a Mousse au Chocolat or Pear Clafoutis ($5.50 each), would make a perfect respite. A Grilled Salmon with Black Olive Tapenade or a Coq au Vin $7.50 and $8.50) are perfect dinner entrees to have on their little patio just before sunset. There are a handful of other entrees on the Vincent Togo menu, but your server will be happy to have the kitchen plate them for you to eat there. They include such interesting dishes as Beef Short Ribs with Figs & Raisins in Red Wine Sauce, Duck Confit with Green Peppercorn (or Orange) Sauce and Beef Brisket with a Gingered Orange Sauce ($14 each). Finish with a Caramel Nut Tart, Chocolate Ganache Cake ($3.50 each) or Mousse au Chocolat ($5.50 - $6.50).
3930 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-224-3727 or 602-224-2492.
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