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LD, $6-$14
Arriba Mexican Grill
Probably one of the most authentic Sonoran of the Gringo Mexican places in town, Arriba has been the darling of the critics and neophytes alike. With solidly good food and a fun tin-and-tile decor, this is the perfect kind of place to impress Aunt Martha from Minnesota. But hatch your plan carefully, because if you forget to tell Aunt Martha to order her dish very mild (the staff will cheerfully adjust the degree of heat to your specifications), the Hatch chilies used here can be pretty explosive! Be aware that the prime lunch and dinner hours are bound to be crowded, so plan accordingly. Some favorites are Queso Fundido (flaming jack cheese with jalapeños, onions, tomatoes and housemade chorizo), Pozole (a pork and hominy stew with red onions, cabbage and cilantro), Stuffed Sopapillas (with charro beans and carne adobada), Seafood Enchiladas, Steak Tampico (topped with Hatch chili and queso fundido) and any of the Fajitas dishes (steak, chicken, shrimp or veggie). There are even a few "lite" selections.
1812 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-265-9112.
BLD, $3-$10
Asadero Norte de Sonora
If you like your south-of-the-border cooking al carbon (and who doesn't like freshly grilled food?), this could be your hangout. Yes, they also have Tacos, Tortas and Burros, but you can get those at your local Denny's, for heaven's sake. And don't worry about spending a lot of pesos, either. Here a Half Grilled Chicken, which comes with a bowl of charro beans and a platter of crisp vegetables (cucumbers, radishes and purple onions), salsa, freshly made chunky guacamole and tart lime halves for squeezing over your meat and the accompanying grilled bulbous green onions, peppers and tomatoes, will give you change from a five-spot. Oh, and of course there are tortillas — corn or flour, your choice. Half orders of Beef Ribs (a little tough, but quite tasty), Grilled Steak or Tripe (done very well here, when they have it — which isn't always), also come loaded with the above sides, for just a couple of bucks more. Then comes the Cadillac — no, the Trifecta — of the grills: the Parrillada. You choose three meats from a list that includes Grilled Steak, Chicken, Tripe, Ribs, Pastor (Pork), Barbecue and Tongue, and get all the aforementioned goodies as well. Half orders serve two to three at less than ten dollars total, full orders still give you two Lincolns back from a Jackson, and could easily sate five or six healthy eaters. Tamarindo, Jamaica, Piña, Horchata and a small selection of Mexican sodas are usually available to wash down your meal in style. Late dining is a plus, with closing at midnight on weekends.
122 N. 16th St., Phoenix, 602-253-4010.
LD, $6-$20+
Asi Es La Vida (Such Is Life)
Now using its Spanish appellation, this place makes almost all the other "Mexican" restaurants pale by comparison. Holding only a dozen small tables, getting in can be tricky at best, unless you opt for really early or really late. If that's the only way you can get in, do it! The food alone is worth it, but the atmosphere at night is as romantic as anywhere you will find in The Valley, and they have a duo that plays guitar to make your heart sing. It's hard to recommend only a few selections, as every dish I have tried is absolutely top notch. However, here are a few of my very favorites. Try the Crema de Cilantro "A unique soup from the Mayan era." Unless you just can't stand that assertive herb, you'll really love this unusual potage. The Chilaquiles are outstanding (I like the pork ones best), as are the Chorizo Sincronizadas, both served only at lunch. After sundown, a good starter is the Crepas de Cameron (shrimp crepes) under a mantle of a rich Chardonnay cream sauce. Continue with a Guisado Combo (two of their famous stews, such as Cochinita Pibil [Yucatan-style pork simmered in orange Achiote sauce with sweet red onions] and Mole Poblano [chicken in a mysterious dark glaze with chocolate and chilies and other goodies], since it's too hard to choose only one.) Or, if in a meat mood, munch on the Filete Asi Es La Vida (Such is Life), a butter-tender filet topped with poblano peppers, onions, garlic and melted cheeses) or the Enrollado de Res (a sirloin roulade stuffed with spinach, bacon and three cheeses, first roasted, then topped with a mouth-watering chipotle tomato cream sauce). Want more seafood? You'll adore the Camaron al Mojo de Ajo, gorgeous butterflied shrimp baked in a garlicky white wine sauce. Three mouthwatering salsas add your personal touch to any of the dishes: a searing Chipotle with chocolate overtones, a mild fresh-tasting Pico de Gallo, and a piquant Tomatillo that hints at tangy lemon. For dessert, a cup of coffee, a glass of cognac and a Napolitano will end (or begin) the evening on a very romantic note.
3602 N. 24th St., Phoenix, 602-952-1255.
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LD; $10-$18+; Closed Monday;
Barrio Café
Finally Phoenicians from all walks of life can sample honest-to-goodness genuine Mexican cookery without taking out a second mortgage. Chef Silvana Salcido, a graduate of the Scottsdale Culinary Institute and co-owner, with partner Wendy Gruber, calls her creations Modern Mexican Cuisine. As inspiration, she draws from family recipes and extensive travels as well, like Crepa de Espinacas in jocoque cream sauce. Cochinita Pibíl is a house specialty, as is Filete Mignon a la Costa. I loved the Tamal de la Huasteca, Ravioli de Chipotle and Pato en Tamarindo. Perhaps the best of all is the Chiles en Nogada. Desserts not to be missed include Goat’s Milk Caramel Stuffed Crepes with vanilla bean ice cream and the infamous Churros — yummy!
2814 N. 16th St.; 602-636-0240; www.barriocafe.com.
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B, L & D ($3.45 - $6.25);
Carolina’s
When it comes to Mexican food, I swear I could eat it every single day of the week and never get tired of it. There are so many styles and variations, including Tex-Mex, that you’ll never get bored. Carolina’s is a great example of Tex-Mex style food that is hearty, comforting and delicious.
Carolina’s claims to make the best tortillas in town. Being a flour tortilla lover, I agree wholeheartedly. Stretchy while tender, with a slightly smoky char taste, this is about as perfect as a tortilla can get. You can order one hot fresh grilled tortilla slathered in butter, ($.90) which is great, but if you love cheese, go for the Cheese Tortilla ($3.10) instead. I had no idea you could get that much cheese into a tortilla!
To further enjoy the flour tortillas, order the 3-Way Burrito ($3.25). Not only is the name a whole lot of fun, but also it tastes fantastic. Red and green chilé with beans wrapped in one of those killer tortillas, it’s smooth, tender, creamy and delicious. Make it a foot long ($.90) and enjoy each and every extra inch! Be sure to pair it up with their spicy red salsa and you're in for some great Mexican!
Carolina, you make my heart swoon.
Three Valley locations: 9030 W. Peoria Ave., Peoria; 1202 E Mohave St., Phoenix; 2126 E. Cactus Road, Phoenix. Phone: (602) 275-8231. Web: www.carolinasmexicanfood.com.
BLD, $4-$10, closed Sun., SV
Casita del Mar
If you like good Mexican seafood, at seashore prices — and think you would enjoy Mexican karaoke —this is the place for you. Clean, but not fancy, this cafe is a joy to dine at. Not only is the food far superior to the average, but the kitchen staff has such a good time singing (karaoke-style, along with the radio) while preparing it, that it seems to taste even better. The menu is divided in half, with seafood and landfood getting equal space, and a separate breakfast menu for AMs. A half-chicken Mole style, in a rich and complex sauce along with nutty tasting rice and creamy refries topped with tangy crumbled white cheese and a side of hot tortillas, is high in flavor and amazingly low in price. Their Pozole, loaded with pork and hominy, has a little kick without getting too gut-wrenching hot. There are three renditions of Moleajetes served here. I chose the Lengua (Tongue) in Green Sauce, a molten lagoon of gooey, stringy melted cheeses and cubed deftly spiced tongue, served in a footed stone-like bowl (normally used as a mortar), which kept everything bubbling (i.e., mouth burning) hot for an interminably long time. This is one dish you will enjoy much more if eaten slowly, so don't order it if you're in a hurry. Also, they have a delightful Chile Relleno, a great Green Corn Tamal(e), and a delicious fat Sope. On the Mar side, try the Camarones Veracruzanos, Mojo de Ajo, or Fajitas, all cooked in the shell to enhance their taste. The Drown Shrimp (Ahogados) are sweet and zippy on their bed of cucumbers, and the Campechana are so fresh you'd have though they were plucked from the sea and dropped into their large ice cream sundae-style glassful of chilled tomato-based broth. It's kind of like having a private tide pool — and a shellfish monger to clean and shell them. Stews are popular here, too, with beef, chicken, goat, shrimp and fish versions all being quite credible. Perhaps the most unusual dish is Cahuamanta. a lightly curried, shredded fish dish. It was sensational. And don't miss the Flan for dessert.
1627 N. 24th St., Phoenix, 602-225-2925.
LD, 7 Days a week (luncheon specials 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday to Saturday); $7.95-$17.95, 3330 N. 19th Avenue, Phoenix, Phone: (602) 279-1763
Celebrate a family affair at La Piñata
La Piñata, a family affair, has been dishing up Sonora-style Mexican food for 38 years. Care and charm carry from the dining room to the menu, ranging from such classics as burros and enchiladas, to tacos and chimichangas.
For the lunch crowd, La Piñata offers a variety of luncheon specials and tortas. There's a Taco in My Burro ($4.95) that uses a large flour tortilla, filling it up with ground beef, lettuce, tomatoes, cheese and onions. The Taco Salad ($6.50) could be considered a lighter option if the deliciously crunchy shell was missing.
Aside from the luncheon menu, dishes can be ordered all day. The portion sizes at La Piñata are extremely generous. The Tio Pancho's Pollo Con Queso ($11.95) is an entree force to be reckoned with. It is a deep fried burro stuffed with tender seasoned chicken and smothered in melted jalapeno cream cheese and cheddar cheese. The Yucatan ($11.95) is similar in its approach, though this time you're given the choice of chicken or beef with their spinach con queso sauce that combines cheese and spinach into each cheesy, melty bite. There are also 10 combination plates for the diner who enjoys variety.
We are blessed to have one another in our busy day-to-day lives. So it's nice to know that there are such welcoming places like La Piñata where we can tear tortillas, eat homemade beans and just enjoy and celebrate ourselves in our way of life.
BLD, $4-$8, SV
Chuy's Mesquite Broiler
Although this is part of a somewhat large chain, the food is so good, and the atmosphere is such fun, that I must include it. With trashy Rocky Point decor and a great patio for almost year round use, this eatery has a lot of appeal, especially for kids. Whoever thinks Mexicans start their day off with lunch hasn't had Chuy's Beef Tri-Tip Breakfast Burrito or the Famous Fajita and Eggs. If anything, this restaurant is noted for the marinated Grilled Chicken, which it has managed to certify as "heart healthy" (even with no mention of the crisp and tasty skin), and claims as "Best of Phoenix 1998." However, the other grilled items, Snapper, Whitefish, Halibut, and Mesquite Shrimp are wonderful as well. The complete meal includes addictive no lard Whole Pinto Beans, Rice, Cabbage Salad (actually a delicious slaw), and Corn Tortillas. If you're putting together a piecemeal meal, the Mesquite Broiled Shrimp Soft Taco is a terrific pivot point with its large flour tortilla filled to overflowing with cabbage and shrimp with a lip-smackin' sauce. On a diet? Not to worry, the grilled shrimp or award winning fish salad comes to the (un-diet tasting) rescue.
1546 W. Bell Road, Phoenix, 602-504-9682. Fax 602-504-9706.
LD, $7-$20+
Coyoacán Steak House
Coyoacán means coyote, and if you go just a little farther south, you're likely to encounter one in the Mountain Park that holds all those giant radio and TV antennas. This handsomely decorated establishment (try to sit facing the splendid IMAX proportioned Aztec mural) is the brainchild of Juan Sanchez and Moises Treves (remember the original Such as Life restaurant?), but now specializing in fine quality Steaks and Chops — with a South of the Border twist — at dinnertime. For lunch try the Chilaquiles, a traditional breakfast (hangover remedy), here topped with grilled top sirloin, chicken or pork loin, for a really hearty meal. The same choice of meats is also advocated in a Mexico City style sandwich called Pepitos, but I suggest you start with one of their terrific Appetizers. Both the Coyoacán Stuffed Poblano Peppers (with shrimp, Chihuahua cheese and roasted garlic) and the Seafood Spanish Style Salad (calamari, shrimp, octopus, bell peppers, onions, olive oil, wine vinegar and garlic bread) will knock your socks off — from the taste, not the heat. Another starter could be the simply titled Chicken Soup: shredded chicken, avocado, onion and boiled egg in a light and fragrant broth. Dinner Appetizers include Nopal Hidalgo (grilled prickly pear pads, melted yellow cheese and mild chorizo) and Coyoacán baby Back Ribs (grilled with a pasilla pepper marinade and sauce). Such is Life fans will be thrilled that the illustrious Cream of Black Bean Soup is on the coyote's menu. Other than the Angus Beef Steaks (topped with Roquefort, Chipotle or Corn Melange Pepper, I would highly recommend either of their Guisados. I sampled the (chicken) Mole Poblano and thought the sauce to be one of the best I've had outside of Mexico. My companion fell in love with her Lamb Chops, aglow with a delicious pasilla pepper and honey sauce. By the way, our entrees were served with five unique side dishes and six distinctive salsas, ranging from mild to majorly searing, for customizing. Be sure to have a Dessert, especially if their crepes are on the recited menu.
9014 S. Central Ave. (south of Los Dos Molinos), Phoenix, 602-323-9010.
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LD, $3-$6, SV
El Rinconcito DF
This may be a tiny shack, but the food is big on flavor. Lots of folks do take out, although they do have a couple of tables outside. Featuring Tacos, Burros, Tostadas and Sandwiches, you can get old standards like Pollo and Carne Asada (chicken, beef), or go for something a little more exotic like Suadero or Pierna (flank steak, pork leg), or go to such extremes as Cabeza or Pata (head, foot). In the middle are Tripo (tripe) and Tinga (chicken with chipotle sauce) and Milaneza (breaded cutlet). Almost everyone knows Chorizo (spicy sausage), but how many of you have tried another sausage called Salchicha? You can here. On weekends only you can get Barbacoa de Borrego (barbecued goat), Menudo (tripe) and Posole (pork soup with hominy). Wash it all down with a true fruit Aqua Fresca (ade) or a Soda Mexicana.
8901 N. 12th St., Phoenix, 602-943-5933.
BLD, seven days a week.
Tortas El Güero -- $4.50 - $7.99
I have a long standing relationship with Tortas El Güero. It makes some of the best tortas in town at some of the best prices.
You know you've hit the gold mine when you're the only white boy in the place.
Starting out at 16th Street then branching out, I’ve managed to visit most of its locations, so when I found out that it opened a spot closer to my ‘hood, I nearly wet myself.
Try the Cubana, which has ham, cheese, roasted pork and beef milanesa, all for $6.50. This is a hefty man size sandwich that's a pretty tall order to shove in your mouth. Fortunately, I have an unhinging jaw — well not really, but it sounds kind of cool like a snake or something — so I was able to eat it sort of neatly. The secret is that I actually pressed it down a little, lol.
The flavors were fresh and well seasoned. A topping of Tortas El Güero’s avocado salsa really hits the spot, but be warned: it truly is spicy. In fact, I wasn’t expecting it. It actually brought a tear to my eye — very nice!
Also order the Alebre Quesadilla, which was stuffed full of steak, onions, peppers, bacon and cheese for $5.99. Each stringy-cheesy-melty bite is sheer gluttony after having the Cubana. Next time I’ll be sure to order only one or the other, since I couldn’t finish them both.
I also really liked the space. While it was clearly the shell of a former Wendy's, I liked the rustic plank flooring and tight subtle spot lighting. Very comfortable, friendly and super clean.
Oh yes, it has a drive- through, though it works a bit differently than most. You need to call ahead, place your order and then drive through. Now that’s about as awesome as the Cubana!
4121 E. Thomas Road Phoenix, – (602) 840-2889
LD, $4-$10, Closed Sun. & Mon., SV
Eliana's Restaurant
Billed as the only authentic home cooking from El Salvador (in the Valley), this bright and cheery cafe is truly a loving hands at home, mom-and-pop enterprise. The hanging pothos plants are even given personal attention, as their tentacles reach around the room, sometimes even invading the diner's private space. The appetizers are so reasonably priced they invite you to experiment. The Platano Frito con Crema y Frijoles (fried plantain with sour cream and beans) also can be a dessert with whipped or ice cream subbing for the sour. Full of robust flavors, the Pasteles Salvadoreños de Carne (meat pies) and the Pupusas (tortillas stuffed with pork, cheese, bell peppers and refried beans) seemed a little on the greasy side. However, the Tamals (tamales of chicken with vegetables) were splendid--for a mere $1.25 each! For the main course my favorite is the Arroz a la Valenciana, kind of like an arroz con pollo with shrimp. Meat lovers will have no regrets with the Carne Asada con Chimol (a steak, broiled Salvadorian style, with a very tasty--but unusual--sauce). Try one of the many authentic drinks: Orchata, Tamarindo, Ensalada and Te Frio will all refresh your palate.
1627 N. 24th St., Phoenix, 602-225-2925.
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LD, $6-$20+
Havana Café
This charming cafe gives you rock solid value and an abundance of flavors that are different and universally satisfying at the same time. With a good sized patio for fair weather, a very friendly and helpful staff (still headed by BJ Hernandez), and a cozy but handsome room for a leisurely repast, this is a super place to take someone you want to get to know better. No matter what you choose to eat here, you won't be disappointed. There is a nice selection of Appetizers (tapas), although I sometimes laze out and share the Cuban Sampler with a friend (or sometimes several friends). It highlights six of the most popular small plates, giving a varied sampling for a reasonable price. Next will be a beautiful bowl of Black Bean Soup, the national soup of Cuba — perhaps even the national dish of Cuba — with an Escabeche (a spicy tuna ceviche with peppers, onions, orange segments, avocado slivers and green olives) to balance. More often than not, I'm a sucker for the Picadillo. This is a montage of ground beef with sofrito, cubed potatoes, green olives, pimentos, and capers, served with black beans and rice. But, they also do a wonderful Arroz con Pollo in a giant bowl, and the Pierna de Puerco Asada (leg of pork in a sour orange, lime and garlic glaze) is to die for. Desserts are all homemade, and if you still have room, the Marquesa is the Achilles heel of chocoholics!
4225 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-952-1991.
LD ($6-$15.95);
Hal O. Peno's Mexican Café
Instead of writing a review, I'm going to write a warning. Avoid this place at all costs. If you want a lesson on how to run a successful Mexican restaurant, do not come here. From the dirty entrance to the sub-par food, this was truly a horrible experience.
Of course you start with complimentary chips and salsa. Chips were room temp and didn’t have a single grain of salt. Both salsas, one mild chunky and another hot and smooth were both lacking salt, garlic and heat, essentially tomato sauce with some red pepper flakes added for good measure.
We ordered a quesadilla with green chili ($6) and what they call a Hal's Sampler for Two ($15.95), which is a variety of all their house specials. Pollo Fundido, mini chimis, flautas, tostadas and a green corn tamale served with rice and beans.
As soon as the quesadilla arrived, we knew what we were in for. The green chilis were of the canned variety and from the first bite, of the old as well. While the cheese was melted, the quesadilla was just above room temperature and the tortilla was more dried out than actually crisped on a flat top grill. Each bite being worse then the last, the barely melted cheese coagulated around the wet mushy diced chili’s. No amount of salsa could save this one — it was D.O.A.
Then the sampler came. If there were any high hopes of melted cheeses and tastes of thick guacamole, they were squashed just as soon as it arrived. The plate of beige had cheese that was barely melted, and like the quesadilla, everything was just above room temperature. Let me tell you, there was nothing redeeming or delicious on this plate. Just a sampler of dried out, deep-fried food covered in cheese and some hyper-green, bland version of guacamole.
After a few bites of this and that, we asked for the check and made our way for the door. When I asked our server for a to-go menu, she seemed genuinely shocked that I may have thought that the food was good enough to order again. I only needed it to make sure I got the information correct when writing this review. The owners should be ashamed of themselves. In a market where decent Mexican food abounds, this just doesn't fly.
Sunday - Thursday 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., 4532 E. Thomas Road, Phoenix, 85018. Phone: (602) 957-1404.
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BLD, 7 days a week, $4.25-9.99
Los Reyes De La Torta
Usted es el bocadillo más hermoso! Roughly translated: you are the most beautiful sandwich! Los Reyes De La Torta is housed in a run down strip mall in a very transitional neighborhood, giving true meaning to the diamond in the rough. A diamond that offers fresh, made-to-order Mexican food served with a smile. When it comes to tortas, they aren’t made much better than this.
The tortas at Los Reyes De La Torta are not only objects of beauty, but of splendor and satisfaction.
If you’re really hungry and want a true challenge, order the Del Rey ($7.50)! OK, here it goes: ham, melted cheese, pork sirloin, breaded beef, sausage, chorizo, eggs, tomato, onion, jalapenos, avocado and refried beans all piled high on fresh warm bolillo bread. Yes, this is one serious torta that you will be hard pressed to finish. Every single bite is different with such an array of ingredients, making this a torta of true diversity. Dress it up with some of their homemade salsa and you have a winning lunch! Even possibly dinner with the other half you more than likely won’t finish.
For something "lighter," the USA ($6.99) might be a more manageable option. Ham, melted cheese, breaded chicken, fresh cheese, pineapple and chipotle mayo dressing may sound almost as formidable as the Del Rey, but can probably be finished in one sitting.
When a torta might sound too heavy, the Alambre de Res Quesadilla ($6.75) makes a delicious alternative. It is a large flour tortilla filled with chopped beef, bacon, bell peppers, onions and melted cheese all griddled to a crispy golden crunch. A Mexican salad comes with the quesadilla, consisting of fresh cut cucumbers, radishes, grilled onions and a roasted jalapeño. A squeezing of lime and a sprinkling of salt further enhance the freshness of the salad.
Los Reyes De La Torta also has a juice bar specializing in fresh fruit juices and fruit milks. The Bomba con Leche ($6) combines milk with your choice of many ingredients ranging from strawberry to granola. The flavorful freshness can only be matched by the Horchata ($3.25). Some of the best horchata in the Valley, hands down.
With so many options available including tacos, burros and salads, lunchtime will never be the same.
9230 N. 7th Street, Suite E, (north of Dunlap), Phoenix Phone: (602) 870-2967
LD - $5.95 - $9.35 - Sunday – Thursday 10am-9pm, Friday – Saturday 10am-10pm
Julio’s Too
His eyes are as blue as the sky, contrasted by his long dark eyelashes and thick black hair. The five o’clock shadow surrounding his full kissable lips would tear you up if you weren’t careful, but some mild discomfort would so be worth it.
It’s funny how an attractive staff can elevate your senses and your appetites. This is the case of Julio’s Too, a Mexican take out and eat-in joint located at the edge of Old Town Scottsdale next to the W Hotel. It also has two other Valley locations. Check its Web site for details.
Julio’s Too is all about counter service, where you place your order, sit down and are served your food when it’s ready, although you are served chips and salsa while you wait.
JT’s serves up old-school Mexican food from enchiladas to tacos and burritos. I go straight for the large cheese crisp ($4.65) which has just the right amount of cheese to tortilla ratio for a nice crispy bite.
The house special, Pollo Magnifico ($8.75), takes a chicken chimichanga, drapes it with cream cheese, then tops it with cheddar cheese served with rice and beans.
This is certainly the thing to get, how can you go wrong with cream cheese?
Los Combos ($7.65/$9.35) let you choose two or three items paired up with rice and beans. Try the enchiladas; cheese and chicken are chubby, melty and delicious.
Cold beer, tasty food and eye candy, life is good!
7305 E Camelback Rd
Scottsdale, AZ 85251-3403
(480) 423-1500
www.juliosaz.com
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BLD, $4-$7, SV
La Canasta
This small cafe can get rather crowded, especially on Sundays when the Mariachis enliven the dining room. But don't think that this is a tourist trap — the food and the patrons are muy authentico. If the day is a little nippy (and, believe it or not, that day will come), a hearty bowl of Cocido might be just what the doctor ordered. The kitchen here does a fine job with Carnitas, and their Machaca and Egg Burrito is deliciously filling. Popular, and for good reason, is the Taquitos de Puerco, and you can't go wrong with either the Red Beef or Green Corn Tamales. There are several good ways to cool your taste buds back down to normal if you have overdone the hot sauce: Honey Sopaipillas, Flan, or Fried Ice Cream being three of the most palatable.
723 S. 7th Ave., Phoenix. 602-254-7295.
LD, $4-$6
La Cocina at Phoenix Farms Market
Whenever you're in the market for authentic Sonoran fare, think about this one. Yes, it's all self-serve, and you probably will end up going to several stands to put together a super meal, but it will be tasty, fast, and whatever you call less than inexpensive. There are briny seafood cocktails to start off with, a bakery for fresh-from-the-oven breads (and cakes, cookies, etc. for dessert), a BBQ stand for chicken, ribs and even crunchy chicharónnes, a steam table where helpful señoritas will assemble tacos, burritos, tortas and platas of your favorite meat from carne asada to carnitas (or my favorites, from lengua in green sauce to buche de puerco). Cool off with a natural fruit agua fresca such as lemon, orange, cantelope, papaya, watermelon, pineapple, jamaica, tamarind or horchata (a delicious rice drink). And, for a change, you'll get to keep lots of change.
3253 N. 19th Ave., Phoenix, 602-241-6292.
LD, $4-$7
La Fuente
This westside storefront is, perhaps, the Mexican answer to Mary Coyle. Specializing in freshly made whole fruit ices (Raspados), they also have Jugos (juices) and Licuados (milk- or water-based fruit ades), pastries, somewhat ordinary sandwiches, Mexican candies, and a few strange and unusual concoctions I had never before come across. The first was a Tostada de Escamochas de Puerco — but not your usual pork, however. This baby had a filling of pickled pork skin squares mixed with chopped sweet onions, tomatoes, and jalapeños, all in a bowl to be placed on or eaten with a pair of deep-fried corn tortillas. The logical accompaniment is a Cocktel de Elote: fresh corn mixed with lemon, onions, grated cheese, and mayonnaise! The latter was served warm, the former cold. My beverage of choice was a large Licuado de Fresa y Piña (fresh strawberries and pineapple). Mucho refreshing!
5124 W. McDowell Road, Phoenix, 602-484-7137.
(Early)BLD(Late), $4-$12
La Perla Café
When a restaurant survives for 60 years, the folks who run it must be doing something right. Actually, here they do many things right, but the most important, in my opinion, is their enchilada sauce. This ambrosial liquid, which has a depth of flavor unrivaled throughout the Valley, makes anything it touches turn to gold. One of the best things for it to touch is the Shrimp Enchiladas, a dish with a rather generous amount of crustaceans for its reasonable price. Most of the menu items can be found at the usual Sonoran eatery, but there are a few of the more exotic foods included, among them are Machaca (especially good as a Chili Relleno filling), Lengua, and an interesting Caldo de Queso. But the Spanish-Style Steak will please even the most conservative in your party.
5912 W. Glendale Ave. (at Grand), Glendale. 623-939-7561. Fax 939-0339.
BLD, ($7.95-$9.95*), Closed Sunday
La Piccola Cucina (The Little Kitchen)
This charming little café again proves the maxim “You can’t tell a restaurant by the size of its kitchen.” Andy Pappas, a transplanted Greek-American New Yorker, along with his wife, Debbie, have just opened a cute-as-a-button converted bungalow on the ever-more-impressive restaurant row of Seventh Street, from Coronado Café up to Café LaBella, a delicious mile of impressive indies.
The refrigerated case beckoning you when you enter has three tiers: the upper level has at least six different meats and the other two rows have various vegetables that are so tasty, even the most rabid veggiephobe will have trouble narrowing his choices down to just two. Such a deal — one meat and a duo of veggies rings in at a mere $9.95! If that sounds like too much food, there are six mouth-watering Sandwich selections at the most reasonable price of $7.95.
First, a few words about the setting. Andy has taken a small house and added so many charming details of décor that, day or night, it takes on an ambiance of comfort and grace.
“Slow Food Done Fast” is Andy’s motto here, and since almost everything is precooked, most dishes simply get a quick heat up before being served. The sandwiches, needing only a bit of assembly, are done even faster. As with every morsel that comes out of this kitchen, all the ingredients are primo — fresh, organic (whenever possible) and, for the most part, locally supplied.
The Athenian broiled prime sirloin cooked with garlic oil and oregano is sure to please most everyone, especially since it is embellished with roasted tomatoes, caramelized onions and sharp gorgonzola cheese. The Mufalatta is not the classic of New Orleans’ Central Grocery fame (they even spell theirs differently: Muffaletta), but a delicious facsimile nonetheless. Andy’s has Sopressatta, Parma cotta ham and imported Swiss cheese, all buried under a mixed olive medley, moistened with extra virgin olive oil and muscato vinegar (a little softer and fruitier tasting than balsamic).
I could spend thousands of words (and really have you drooling) about the desserts. They have about a dozen of Berto’s best gelato flavors, including Pistachio, Tiramisu, Bananas Foster, Mango and Cookies and Cream.
Between the savories and gelatos are two cases full of cookies and pastries that Pappas has shipped in from four basic purveyors east of the Mississippi: Christie Cookie Company, Roland International, Plaza Sweets and Egidio’s. Some are sold as is, but many have to be baked (by Andy and crew) on the premises. The Cannoli shells must be filled with his custom ricotta blend (complete with sprinkles!), the Mousse Mountain must be melted to molten, some of the large White Chocolate Macadamia Nut and Raisin Oatmeal cookies must be baked and some of the goodies just need to be thawed. Even some of the pastries that are flawless when received get the Pappas touch.
All kinds of espresso drinks are well made here as well, and sometimes just a cup and a sweet will be a delightful way to cap off an evening while sitting on the patio and listening to Andy, the singer, make his magic.
2241 N. Seventh St. (second building south of Oak — you’ll never find the sign), Phoenix. Phone: 602-358-7415.
BLD, $4.25-9.99
Los Reyes De La Torta
Usted es el bocadillo más hermoso! Roughly translated: you are the most beautiful sandwich! Los Reyes De La Torta is housed in a run down strip mall in a very transitional neighborhood, giving true meaning to the diamond in the rough. A diamond that offers fresh, made-to-order Mexican food served with a smile. When it comes to tortas, they aren’t made much better than this.
The tortas at Los Reyes De La Torta are not only objects of beauty, but of splendor and satisfaction.
If you’re really hungry and want a true challenge, order the Del Rey ($7.50)! OK, here it goes: ham, melted cheese, pork sirloin, breaded beef, sausage, chorizo, eggs, tomato, onion, jalapenos, avocado and refried beans all piled high on fresh warm bolillo bread. Yes, this is one serious torta that you will be hard pressed to finish. Every single bite is different with such an array of ingredients, making this a torta of true diversity. Dress it up with some of their homemade salsa and you have a winning lunch! Even possibly dinner with the other half you more than likely won’t finish.
For something "lighter," the USA ($6.99) might be a more manageable option. Ham, melted cheese, breaded chicken, fresh cheese, pineapple and chipotle mayo dressing may sound almost as formidable as the Del Rey, but can probably be finished in one sitting.
When a torta might sound too heavy, the Alambre de Res Quesadilla ($6.75) makes a delicious alternative. It is a large flour tortilla filled with chopped beef, bacon, bell peppers, onions and melted cheese all griddled to a crispy golden crunch. A Mexican salad comes with the quesadilla, consisting of fresh cut cucumbers, radishes, grilled onions and a roasted jalapeño. A squeezing of lime and a sprinkling of salt further enhance the freshness of the salad.
Los Reyes De La Torta also has a juice bar specializing in fresh fruit juices and fruit milks. The Bomba con Leche ($6) combines milk with your choice of many ingredients ranging from strawberry to granola. The flavorful freshness can only be matched by the Horchata ($3.25). Some of the best horchata in the Valley, hands down.
With so many options available including tacos, burros and salads, lunchtime will never be the same.
7 days a week,
9230 N. 7th Street, Suite E, (north of Dunlap), Phoenix,
Phone: (602) 870-2967
BLD, $4-$6
La Tolteca
Eating in a market can be a fascinating experience, but eating in this Mexican market may not be for everyone. Take the audio atmosphere, for instance. Loud music; incessant, not-at-all-soothing sounds of the video machines; and the screaming of unattended kids racing around the tables may not appeal to tearoom (no, the kind with teacups!) habitues. The food, however, is authentic Sonoran, including the more exotic Cabeza and Lengua, which, along with those South of the border staples as Carne Asada, Al Pastor and Carnitas may be had as burritos, tortas, tacos, etc. With the cool weather approaching, Cocido Soup (short ribs with potatoes, carrots, cabbage, corn and other vegetables) could fuel your fire as a meal ($4.25 for a good-sized bowl). The call to fame here, however, is the Monster Taco, with its big brother the Super Burrito. Loaded with beef or chicken, shredded lettuce, tomato, cheese and both red and green sauce, it is reputed to be the biggest one around.
1205 E. Van Buren St., Phoenix, 602-252-1511. Fax 254-8287.
BLD, $4-$11
Las Cazuelas
Although the exterior of this westside restaurant, which offers a terrific variety of authentic south of the border dishes, including many seafood plates, is typical strip shopping center blah, the interior is a tile-setter's dream. Yes, the sound of Spanish fills the air, but there is an English menu, and most of the servers are bilingual. Start your day with Machaca con Huevo, Chilaquiles or a handful of other egg dishes or, like IHOP, have breakfast for dinner — it's served all day. The Ceviche Tostada and Queso Fundido con Chorizo are splendid appetizers, and there is an interesting variety of whole-meal soups, including the popular Siete Mares (seven types of seafood), Caldo de Camarones (shrimp) and Costa Brava, a devilishly spicy version of Seven Seas. Speaking of shrimp, the Enchiladas Corona are worth every bit of their ten spot price tag. A delicious plate for a couple of bucks less is the Chile Verde (pork cooked in green sauce). Save two and a half dollars more and you can still get a fat Quesadilla Supreme, stuffed with beans, guacamole, lettuce, tomatoes and cheese. Even at two dollars and two bits less again, you can get a delicious Burrito loaded with fish, cabbage, Mexican salsa, and white sauce. Then, for two bills less than that, you can get ... nothing that I can think of (but you are only 15 cents away from a large glass of Jamaica, Horchata or Tamarindo).
5150 W. McDowell Road, Phoenix, 602-278-4885.
D $4-$13* Cl Sun & Mon
Lola Tapas
Take a drive down Camelback from 16th Street into the setting sun and you’ll pass by hundreds of Fords, Mazdas, Hondas, VWs, Toyotas, Nissans, Subarus, Buicks, Pontiacs, Lincolns, Mercurys, Chevys and the like, for a good half-mile. No literally, you’ll pass them, blinded by the almost offensive orange ball falling far too slowly behind the distant mountains. The next block (if you can see it) boasts Cadillacs, Mercedes and BMWs.
If you’re continuing on to the corner of 8th Street, on a Tuesday through Saturday night, you’re apt to ogle fine examples of those latter three and many other opulent toys, including Jaguars, Lexuses (Lexi?), Audis, Porsches, Bentleys and perhaps even a Rolls or two. But why have the drivers of these trendy luxury vehicles abandoned them all on the same corner? ’Cause that’s where Daniel and Felicia Ruiz-Wayne have transplanted a bit of Barcelona into the Valley of the Sun in their newest venture, Lola Tapas (named for their daughter, Paloma, who they affectionately call Lola).
This small, occasionally boisterous place is not a restaurant or a bar, per se, although they serve wonderful food and have simply the best (and most sinful) white and red sangrias thrown in for good measure. With its warm and intimate décor, low-key lighting and communal tables (the place to be), it’s more like a social club that, luckily, is open to all. And this “all” is a very diverse group with an emphasis on youth, sophistication and wealth. HOT! (Or is it haute?)
Ethnic restaurants, God bless ’em, usually try to introduce authentic homeland food to their newfound habitat often at the expense of the venue (or vice versa). True success is when someone accomplishes something quite worthwhile, but appears to have done it effortlessly. And in that respect, Lola is a resounding success.
The menu, which changes often, has only nine tapas, listed by their Spanish names but with ample descriptions in English. With the majority of items seven dollars or under, this is one of the most reasonable places of its kind. A chalkboard near the entrance lists a special dish of the evening and the “Sweet of the day.”
The back of the menu lists the wines, by the glass and by the bottle, plus a small select list of Jerez (Sherry) three ounce pours for dessert. For my money (or at least $6.50 of it), what could go better with tapas than a tall glass of Sangria? The traditional red Sangria is a crimson jewel in a wine glass but the faintly cinnamon sweet white sangria is a shining prince on a galloping white steed, and by steed I mean order it by white porcelain pitcher. It won’t go to waste.
While perusing the short-listing of tantalizing choices, a small plate of homemade bread and herby olive oil is provided. Usually I caution my readers about overdoing this stopgap, but, again, the quality is worth all the calories, and you’re not likely to leave here overstuffed, even if you order two to three dishes per person. In two trips we managed to sample the entire menu (food side, not the wine side that took three) and I’m sure that since then, I’ve sampled it several times over. While I’ll save you from describing the glorious items that may or may not be on the menu when you decided to drive off into the sunset and visit Lola, I will tell you this; if you ever find yourself stuck in traffic staring into the blinding sun and wishing you were somewhere far away and exotic, remember that Spain (or somewhere like it) might be just around the corner.
800 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-265-4519.
LD, $6-$12
Los Dos Molinos
Housed in a historic rambling hacienda, this is one of the most handsome Mexican restaurants in town (or out of town, as some might consider this south Phoenix location to be.) Nevertheless, with their New Mexican style of cooking, it's one of the hottest places in the Valley. When your food goes down the hatch, you'll know that they import their chilies from Hatch, NM — some of the fiercest to be found. Yes, their food is hot, but it also is very tasty. Their Adobada Ribs are a real treat, so tender and juicy you almost don't notice the heat building up in your mouth. Don't worry, a dessert of sweet Sopaipillas will soothe the flames.
8646 S Central, Phoenix, 602-243-9113.
D, $10-$15, Closed Mon.
Los Sombreros Mexican Restaurant
The new home of Los Sombreros is a charming brick cottage that has been stripped down to its bare-bones basics and carefully remodeled to retain its mature warmth and charm. A handsome back bar and misted patio are delightful additions. Now it's colorful and comfy — and the food is still, as you would expect, fabulous! Los Sombreros is owned by Jeffrey and Susie Smedstad, an energetic young couple who make semi-annual treks to central Mexico just to add to the cafe's recipe repertoire. Queso Fundido with Spinach sounds like a glorified cheese dip. Not so. This incredible mixture of spinach, cheese, tomatoes, and mild chiles, presented in an oblong sizzling skillet, is made splendid by the addition of fire-roasted onions and a deft hand with some secret herbs and spices. The Pollo con Espinacas offers a juicy breast cooked with spinach in a chipotle cream sauce. A generous plate of medium-sized plump shrimp share the spotlight with tortillas(!) simmered in a salsa verde with melted jack cheese and crema in Chilaquiles de Camarones, always a good choice. The Puerco en Mole Verde is an ambrosial gustatory delight, with the meat cooked to an ideal tenderness in a magical pumpkinseed tomatillo sauce of immense complexity. The Grilled Chicken Mole has a clever kicker of coriander to contrast the piquant, dark sauce and the Lamb Adobo offers a juicy, meaty shank set askew in a bowl of ambrosial ancho chile sauce. Dessert proves that Los Sombreros can end a meal with the same excitement. The Pumpkin Seed Cake with Caramel Sauce is textbook perfect in every way. An incredible Chocolate Tamale with fresh whipped cream, homemade vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce is better yet, if that's possible. Even the Margaritas pass with flying colors.
2534 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale, 480-994-1799. Fax 480-423-0513.
M
BLD $4-$12
Mariscos Acapulco
To paraphrase Mark Twain, the reports of the demise of this dowdy little hole-in-the-wall place were premature. Not only has it risen from the dead, but don’t be surprised if every table is full when you arrive. They again are doing a heck of a business. They also turn tables rather quickly, so your wait shouldn’t be too long. Get a glass of Piña Colada or an icy cold bottle of Dos Equis Amber, and in no time you could be devouring one of their giant briny Shrimp, Oyster, Ceviche, Snail, Octopus, Abalone, Mix(t)ed or Campechana Cocktails. You won’t find better quality at a seaside restaurant right after the fleet has come in. I love the whole-meal Soups here, especially the Marine Acapulqueña, which contains practically every shellfish known to man. Those who don’t like to mix their metaphors can zero in on Shrimp, Fish, Crab or Shrimp balls. The waitresses don’t speak much English, but if someone at the next table gets something that looks interesting, point to it and say “I want that.” I doubt you’ll go wrong.
3220 E. Thomas Road, Phoenix, 602-954-1400.
LD, $5-$10, closed Mon.
Mi Cocina, Mi Pais
Rosa Rosas brings a bit of Ecuador to north Phoenix in a small shopping center. Here you will find lovely and fragrant dishes like Pork Empanada, Ecuadorian Tamale, Seco de Pollo, Ceviche (with popcorn!), Sango de Camarones and Bogotona.
4221 W. Bell Road, Phoenix, 602-548-7900.
BLD, $4-$9, SV
Mini Mercado Oaxaca
The old saying "never go to a market when you're hungry" falls flat on its face here. You'd better be real hungry stepping into this market, since most of it has become a full-fledged restaurant with traditional Oaxacan (an area near Mexico City) fare that has a universal appeal. And the portions demand your full attention, often for two meals. Good Chilaquiles are hard to find in town, and these come in choice of color: Red, Green, Yellow (or Bean), all con carne as well. Other breakfast possibilities include a variety of Huevos with meats, cheeses and sauces. For other meals, the menu has all the usuals plus lots of regional dishes seldom seen in mainstream places. Some mouth-watering newbies to try are Sopes, Memelitas, Molotes, Gorditas de Chicharron, Tlayudas (get the combo with meat), Tamales Oaxaqueños, Costillas de Puerco con Nopales en Salsa, Mole Negro, Codorniz a la Plancha, Pipian con Pollo and Verdologas en Salsa Verde con Puerco. Wash them down with a Peñafiel, Sidral, Boing, Jarritos, Chilacayota, Agua Fresca de Fruta (several flavors made daily) or a Fresa Esquimo. There even are hot drinks for sipping. Aside from the Cafe de Olla, which is excellent, you might want to indulge in a Champurrado, Atole Blanco or relive your childhood with a Chocolate de Agua (or con Leche).
9407 N. Central Ave. (just north of Hatcher), Phoenix, 602-395-0867.
N
D $2.50-$4, 7 nights a week 6-midnight
Nogales Hot Dogs
With versions being called Tijuana, Sonoran, Mexican and now Nogales, these hot dogs all have one thing in common — bacon goodness! Even while sometimes illegal, these hot dogs are as popular with late night street food eaters as ever. For the unfamiliar, these vendors take a hot dog, wrap it in bacon, fry until crunchy on a flat top grill, cover with a melody of beans, salsa, cheese and mayonnaise and then stick it into a hot and steamy bun. If this sounds slightly strange, don’t be fooled, these re seriously drive-out-of-your-way-to-get-one good!
Stop by the late night cart at 20th street and Indian School, and prepare to eat one of these bacon wrapped goodies. At just over two bucks each, Nogales Hot Dogs smothers theirs in tasty pinto beans, creamy mayonnaise and freshly chopped tomatoes. They also have a table that holds additional salsas, cheeses and condiments for you to decorate your dog in any way you deem fit. The drink of choice is ice cold Mexican Coke — you know the kind with real cane sugar — that pairs amazingly with each smoky and satisfying bite.
Phoenix definitely needs more street food culture, and thanks to Nogales Hot Dogs, we’re one cart closer to that dream.
1945 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix. Phoene: 602-527-0208
O
P
BLD, $4-$7, Closed Tues.
Pepe's Taco Villa
They say a good man is hard to find, and it's true! However, in this town, a good mole might be even more elusive. But fret not, 'cause Pepe's has a dark and silky, rich yet elusive version to reckon with. For the daily fare there is an order of three plump chicken enchiladas tucked beneath this heavenly blanket, but if you want chicken plates, you do have to wait for Sundays to partake. Breakfasts are served all day, and the Machacado and Chilaquiles versions come satisfaction guaranteed. Here, the Fajitas are made with skirt steak for far superior flavor, and on Wednesdays the special is Calabacitas, a healthy mixture of squash, corn, and pork. A favorite of mine is Chicharrón, pieces of pork skin in a devilish salsa verde. It's not for every Gringo, just the adventurous.
2108 W Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-242-0379.
LD, $8.95-$15.95
Pink Taco
What's all the fuss about the name? Despite the moniker, you'll see plenty of gay boys here, and they're all having a fun time. In fact, fun is what this place is all about, and if you're in a cranky mood, you'll probably get over it here. By the way, their website is a real hoot, too. Some of the food is mediocre, but some things are amazingly well prepared, as long as you're not demanding the "real" Mexican food that you get in places like Asi Es La Vida. Start with comp thick chips and three lively sauces. The chipotle is my favorite, but all three are tasty. I like the Shrimp Tacos, the Mexican Turkey Chopped Salad, the Sweet Corn Tamales and even the Vegetarian Chilaquiles when I'm not in a meat mode. The Baby Back Ribs, however, are sensational. They (a meaty full rack) come with a tamarind chipotle glaze that surely should be bottled, and remember, a little goes a long way. The ribs are eater friendly (fall right off the bone) and Mmmmmm, good. But the real surprise is the go-withs. You'll wish there was more of the flavorful tomato (and creamy avocado) salad (though the portion is quite hardy), and the roasted white corn, Mexican street-vendor style, is addicting. I haven't tried any desserts yet, but have my eye on their Tres Leches Cake, Chocolate Chile Ancho Cake and Chocolate Tacos!
7135 E. Camelback Road, 480-675-7777, www.pinktaco.com.
Q
LD, $6-$7, SV
Qdoba Mexican Grill
So people would no longer confuse it with Z-Tejas, the former Z-Teca Mexican Grill had to pick a new name. No one was catching his Zs when this heart-happy Mexican fast (but delicious) food emporium was planned. You can see (and taste) that lots of thought went into every facet. The basic concept is simple: give people a pleasing but healthy product, with choices they can make to semi-customize it. Plainly translated, you pick your meat, beans, salsa, cheese and sour cream, which are put into a large, special break-proof tortilla, filled to capacity. You can get anything from grilled veggies to carnitas to poblano pesto (my #1 choice) to chicken mole. A few salads and tacos round out the offerings. Margaritas and Mexican beers are a plus.
3110 N. Central Ave. (in Park Central Mall) Phoenix, 602-277-5800.
R
BLD, $3-$5
Ranch Market
The experts say you should never go to a market when you are hungry. But, what do they know anyway? One trip to the Phoenix Ranch Market will prove that they're full of baloney ... when surely they would have been much happier being full of Salchicha. Have some of it (a small sausage) along with Tocino, Jamón, Huevos al Gusto and a cup of coffee for Desayuno (breakfast) for just a few pesos, although purists might say that a large serving of Chilaquiles with rice and beans is di rigueur. Don't know what the devil are Chilaquiles? Fortunately, there is a large board with over forty translations of dishes and ingredients in this Mexican mercado plopped right in the heart of south Phoenix. Aside from the grocery part, which has every conceivable fruit, vegetable and cut of meat one would find south of the Rio Grande, along with exotic sauces and their components, canned, packaged and frozen foods, and even cleaning supplies and hardware with old country brands, there are food stalls, too. There is a large area of baked goods and others with fresh fruit drinks, hot meals, take-out meats and even a tortilla factory. The place is a riot of color and a cacophony of sounds, those over the PA system mostly mariachi inspired, but two TVs also add to the confusion. Long picnic tables anchor the center of the "food court" area, and are kept rather clean, considering the volume of food that gets consumed, and the oftentimes-young age of the consumers. A good place to start is the Aguas Frescas stand, with fresh squeezed drinks of pineapple, melon, papaya, tamarind, banana and even rice (horchata), among others. Additionally, Mexican smoothies (Licuados) are made to order here ... and, surprisingly, a few seafood cocktails are under its jurisdiction. Drink in hand, the next order of business is the prepared food area. For Antojitos, try a meal-sized Gordita or a Huarache. Next there are generously stuffed Burritos filled with Pastor, Carne Asada, Carnitas, Buche or Cabeza. Tacos stuffed with the above and Tortas (made with rolls right from their own bakery) with filling choices of Milanesa, Carnitas, Asada, Pierna, Jamón, Pollo Asado and Queso de Puerco are other filling options, along with a few combination plates, one with Birria. Other possibilities involve (2) Tacos, a Tamale, Red and/or Green Chile and Carne Asada. Menudo, Posole and Cocido are full meal soups/stews. Then there's Al Pastor, Carne Asada, Carnitas, Birria, Buche and Cabeza sold by the pound, as well as fall-off-the-bones Costillas, Trompas, Lengue, Tripas and Chicharrones (plain or with meat). Ranch Market has a great Panderia (Bakery) section, filled with breads hot from the oven, beautiful cakes, and a grand assortment of Pan Dulce (Mexican large Cookies and small Cakes, $1).
5833 S. Central Ave. (NE corner of Southern), Phoenix, 602-276-3800.
BLD $4-$12
Restaurante Salvadoreño — Sort of similar to Mexican, but with some interesting new additions, the food of El Salvador is worth a try (unless you’re on Atkins — then forget it!) For breakfast they have eggs and bacon, machaca or chorizo, but also fried potatoes and scrambled eggs with cheese, beans and cream. Other meals might include onion chicken (or steak), chile relleno, beef stew tongue, white beans with pork, fried tilapia or black rice with cheese, cream and beans, perhaps preceded by a pupusa of pork, loroco flower or cheese. Other fun appetizers are fried plantain with cream and beans, boiled yucca with fried pork and tomato sauce, chicken or chipillin and cheese tamales, or even corn tamales served with cream. Shrimps are served aguachile style, or with sweet toasty garlic or in a ceviche salad plate, and there are a quartet of really good soups, but they’re served on weekends only. Desserts are pretty starchy, too, but give one a try. Select from a sweet bread made with cheese and rice, plantain stuffed empanadas with cream filling, pineapple or corn atoles, and nuegados (cookies) made of yucca and honey. Wash it all down with a tamarind citrus or morrow seed drink.
8911 N. Central Ave., Suite #101 (Sunnyslope Village), Phoenix, 602-870-2955. www.salvadorenorestaurant.com.
BLD, $4-$12
Rita's Restaurant
If you were blindfolded and taken here, chances are you might believe you were in a Mexican border town cantina. The ambiance, the clientele, and the cuisine all are muy authentico. Although you can find the usual Tacos, Burritos and Enchiladas (and some unusual ones — like Lengua, Camaron and Tripitas de Leche — too), the specialties here are mostly seafood oriented. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Mole de Pollo, the Nopalitos con Carne de Puerco or the Bistec Picado Estilo Ranchero, it's just that the Camarones al Mojo de Ajo, Pescado a la Plancha and Coctele Vuelva a la Vida are always fresh and highly recommended. Then there are the specials of the day — usually something quite special indeed — like the Pork Ribs Adobado I had on a recent visit. And, don't forget to leave room for the homemade Flan. Bottles of Mexican Coke and Fanta are served, but I prefer an Orchata or Tamarindo or Piña (or an imported beer from the varied selection).
1402 N. 35th Ave., Phoenix, 602-278-7376.
LD, $7-$16+, lunch served M-F only.
Rokerij
In a charming stone cottage who's looks belie its recent vintage, Richardson Browne has brought a combination of Dutch bar food and southwestern themed dishes together, probably for the first time anywhere. All the Entrees save one exceed our price limit, but the Small Plates, Salads and Bigger Plates (the bulk of the menu) are all solidly affordable. Among the latter, try Oscar's Mexico City Ceviche, Blue Crab Tostadas, Steak Tartare and Veal Mini Meatballs with San Marzano Diablo Sauce. The Southwest Chopped Salad with Ancho Chile Dressing is awesome, and the Bigger Plates include Carne Adovada, Schreiner's SW Sausages, a savory Burger Trio Platter and a delightful Rokerij Charcuterie and Cheese Platter, in two convenient sizes. Lunch is only served M-F.
6335 N. 16th St.; 602-287-8900.
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L (early) & D ($9.50-$10.99*). Closed Monday
Sabor Cubano Buffet
Nancy and Paul want you to make yourself at home in their humble eatery where they faithfully recreate for you dishes from the old country — hearty and flavorful comfort food — just as if you were a guest in their house in Havana. Here you get to serve yourself, for the most part, scooping up wonderful morsels from a buffet table that is constantly being replenished just a few servings-worth at a time.
The main buffet section has 16 hot selections, and there are also two small ancillary stations, one with side relishes such as chilies, onions and such, the other with a small variety of desserts. In addition to the buffet, a few extras are available. Maybe you’d like to add some sides like Platanos Maduros Fritos and Tostones (sweet fried plantains and green plantains squashed and fried into disks, $1.50 each) or Tamals ($3). A small cup of foamy-topped Cuban Café, sweet and strong like espresso ($1, con leche, $1.50), and a very rich, large round individual Tres Leches Flan, dripping with sweet syrup ($3), makes a formidable pairing after a meal or just by themselves.
There also are some full entrée-style platters that can be added to your buffet ($5.50 to $6.50 extra.) Among the offerings were the famous Ropa Vieja, Pierna de Puerco and something called Baca Fria. Each one came with some salad greens topped with tomatoes, avocado slivers and cucumber slices, congris (or white rice, your choice) and sweet or green plantain.
There are some nice desserts augmented with the likes of canned fruit and chocolate and vanilla puddings. Don’t let these mundane fillers fool you about the rest. Torrejas might look like ovals of French toast, but actually they are authentic Cuban desserts. Traditionally their batter is enhanced with evaporated milk and they are served one uncut slice per person, along with Melao, a simple sugar syrup (or just honey) flavored with cinnamon. You may not be familiar with Pane Della. Well, here’s all you have to know about it: its homely exterior belies a lovely moist and exuberant interior. Actually, it’s quite similar to the Italian Panettone, the coffee cake that’s become popular at Christmas time. If you like that, you’ll love this one. And, while we’re in a loving mood, Sabor Cubano’s Rice Pudding is hands down among the tops in town.
So, in these times when it gets ever more important to watch each penny (have you seen the price of copper lately?), one would be hard pressed to find a more satisfying meal at such a reasonable price. Stock up on cigars, you’ll be proud to tell your friends about this baby.
2030 W. Camelback Road, Phoenix. Phone: 602-841-CUBA (2822).
(early) BLD, $5-13
Sylvia's La Canasta Mexican Restaurante
Sylvia's La Canasta restaurant and Sylvia's Mexican Import Gift and Furniture Shop are finally one. Their extensive remodel flattened the tiny original joint for parking, and produced a modern kitchen and two additional dining rooms adorned in the traditional Sonoran-American style. A third (northernmost) dining room was the original gift and furniture shop, where one is still surrounded by lovely, colorful artifacts and beautifully carved furniture. Find a comfy seat at a handsome table. If you like it, you can buy it. If you like the one across the way (with the hunky man sitting at it), you can buy that one (table) instead. If not...well, the food is delicious—and one helluva bargain to boot. Special dishes include fish tacos, Navajo tacos, flautas topped with excellent guacamole, green corn tamales, machaca chile rellenos, crab enchiladas, and steak fritanga (a mixture of mushrooms, bacon and hot yellow chiles). Margaritas by the glass or pitcher add to the festivities.
5508 N. 7th Ave., Phoenix, 602-242-4252.
T
BLD, $4-$8, SV
Tacos de Juarez
If you like your Mexican food Sonoran style, this small oasis will satisfy your hot-tooth — once you find it. For breakfast they have a few kinds of huevos platas and wake-up burros as well as a homey menudo (every day). Midday and early evening choices include wonderful thick Gorditas redolent of sweet roasted corn (the pork or the carne asada are best), deep fried tacos of ground beef and potatoes, or perhaps a burro filled with tender Lengua Entomatado (tongue in tomato sauce). There's even a section on the menu with Marisco (seafood) cocktails, stews, and entrees. Breakfasts are only served at breakfast time on weekends and they close after lunch on Wednesdays.
1017 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-258-1744.
(early)BLD(late), $4-$10, SV
Tacos Mexico
Entering through the patio and walking past the enormous grill, one gets the idea — and rightfully so — that the specialties of the house are going to be cooked over charcoal. For the most part, that is true. The beef (carne asada), pork (carnitas), marinated pork (pastor), and chicken (pollo), whether ordered in a taco, burrito, torta (sandwich) or a tostada, is going to be moist and flavorful from the grilling. Even if you don't speak Spanish, don't forget that they do a wonderful job with tripa (tripe), sesos (brains), and cabeza (head), if you're so inclined. They are not listed on the English side of the menu, probably in deference to those gringo's who would be sickened by the very idea of consuming those parts. Somehow, tongue (lengua) does appear bilingually, and I encourage you to try that, too. There is a combination plate of your choice of three meats, rice and beans, which is quite reasonable and a good way to experiment. Other goodies are cocktails of shrimp, octopus, and oysters; shrimp or 7 seas soups; and menudo every day. Flan is the desert of choice. Among the fresh drinks are horchata, jamaica, tamarindo and piña.
2333 N. 16 St., Phoenix, 602-253-5163.
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