LD $4-$10*
Al Mostafa Restaurant
The best thing I can say about the atmosphere at this restaurant in a grocery, is that it’s breathable. Jane has rarely been this plain. We had two appetizers straight from cans (Baba Ghanoush and Hummus, the latter with a drizzle of olive oil) — which made us acknowledge that we were, after all, in a grocery store. But, when it came to the main dishes, all three were way above average. The Lamb Shish Kebab meat, cut small to get more charring, was amazingly moist and robust in flavor, arriving with grilled tomatoes on the side; the Gyros, though cut thicker than customary, was delightful; and the Lamb Shank was fall-off-the-bone tender, came with a lovely Eggplant Sauce (they call it a soup) and sat atop a bed of aromatic golden rice with a layer of onion sautéed vermicelli. All entrées were $10 or under, and bottled yogurt drink as well as Turkish Coffee is available.
7144 N. 35th Ave. (one block north of Glendale Ave.), Phoenix, 602-233-0800.
LD, $8-$15+
C-Fu Gourmet Restaurant
This venerable and versatile restaurant could actually be listed under Asian, Seafood, or, if we had a separate category, Dim Sum Teahouses. Here we will emphasize the marine aspects without hesitation. For starters, choose from among Sugar Cane Shrimp, Jellyfish, and Walnut Shrimp Salad, then try Seafood Bean Curd Soup, Crabmeat Winter Melon Soup or a hearty Seaweed Vegetable Soup. If you go with a large group you can mix and match X.O. Scallops with Garden Vegetables, Sauteed Conch, Catfish with Black Bean Sauce, Fresh Squids with Sour Vegetables, Lobster Supreme, Crab with Spicy Pepper Salt, Clams with Satay Sauce, or Sliced Abalone with Sea Cucumber. You can't find anything fresher than one of their many varieties of fish plucked right out of a tank, then prepared in a dozen ways with a dozen sauces. Or, you could go alone and get two weeks worth of food in a doggy bag! I can't say enough wonderful things about C-Fu Gourmet (especially in this small space). Just suffice that it's worth a trip from anywhere for any reason.
2051 W. Warner Road, Chandler, 480-899-3888. Fax 480-899-1388.
BLD, $4-$10
Chompie's Restaurant and Deli
If you're homesick for New York, come to Chompie's. This place looks, tastes, sounds, and even feels like the Big Apple. Ya' can't miss the major mural running down the north wall with everything from the city including lighted Broadway marquees. There are the mandatory pickle and sauerkraut plates, overstuffed pastrami sandwiches, matzo brae, Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray, good chopped liver, chicken-in-the-pot, matzo-ball soup, and you name it — this menu is all encompassing! And when is the last time a waitress with a NY accent called you hon?
3202 E. Greenway Road, Phoenix, 602-971-8010.
LD, $4-$6, SV
Desert Greens Cafe
If the Gentle Strength Cooperative was a resort hotel, this would be both the coffee shop and the five-star restaurant (without the tableside flambe). Order inside, then sit either in the common dining room with art-for-sale decor, or the tree and umbrella shaded patio. The basic menu is small and simple, and several daily specials fill in the gaps at this totally vegetarian, mostly organic spa. The coffee shop fare features such goodies as varied mixed Desert Greens Salads, a Super Burger (kind varies daily), Express Wraps (du jour), Soups (chef's choices) with Organic Greens and Bread, sides of Tofu, Brown Rice and Bean of the Day. The kids can be sated with a Grilled Cheese Sandwich (soy or dairy) or a soy Wonderdog. Fancy dishes include Saguaro Sesame Tofu (slices of spicy-coated baked bean curd—also available as a side) with steamed veggies and ponzu sauce, Wok Wonders (a stir-fry combo with soup and salad), a changing Superlative Special, and a Renaissance Feast (some of the above stuff plus pickled radishes, Nori and Gomashio). Fresh juices, soy or rice milk, herbal teas, pop, and a variety of coffee drinks are available to wet your whistle. Items such as fruit and desserts can be bought out of the grocery and eaten here. Sundays sport a special brunch in lieu of a dinner hour. Make Desert Greens a habit and you'll beam radiant health to all your friends.
Located inside Gentle Strength Cooperative, 234 W. University Drive, Tempe, 480-968-4831.
LD, $6-$15, closed Sun.-Tues.
Fishin' Hole
If big portions of delicious fried fish and seafood at oceanside prices is your thing, run out to east Mesa and indulge at this nautical eating place, where extra friendly service is an added plus. Although they serve a great chopped pork loin, a couple of chicken dishes and meaty tender ribs, you certainly won't be disappointed with anything that comes out of the sea (or a lake). They fry with a very light hand, and I recommend the shrimp (fried, coconut or po' boy, cod, and catfish, as well as the clams and daily specials. A nice selection of sides, too, including corn on the cob, fried okra, clam strips, pinto beans and French fries.
7000 E. Main St., Mesa; 480-324-3474.
BLD, $4-$7, SV
Goldman's Best Cooking
A Jewish deli in Scottsdale — run by a mom and pop (and son) from Chicago — that serves food so good you'd think they came from New York! Really! Sam Goldman, the dashing waiter, busboy, cashier, and host owns Goldman's together with his parents, Gregory, the chef, and Rozalia, the sous chef. Don't be expecting the vast menu selection of a competing deli chain, however; with only two in the kitchen, they would rather do fewer dishes well than many mediocre ones. Breakfast is served from their 7am opening all the way through to the somewhat early closing. Be adventurous with Salami and Eggs, crunchy Potato Latkes or glistening Fried Kreplach. My favorite is a slew of perfectly sauteed Chicken Livers and Onions, plentiful and rich enough to serve two or three. Those who like their eye-opening meal a little sweeter will be thrilled with the homemade Cherry or Blueberry Blintzes, bursting at the seams with fruit in a heavy, sweet, slightly thick syrup. Heartily stuffed sandwiches fill the bill for lunch or dinner. The somewhat concise selection is well thought out, and the Goldmans take all parts of their sandwiches seriously. Heaped with lean, melt-in-your-mouth Brisket, an amazingly tender and flavorful Skirt Steak, or some schmaltz-laden chopped liver, and you have a rare gem not easily matched in the southwest. The 1/2-pound Cheeseburger comes with a delicious but novel combination of kosher bacon (somewhat like Pastrami), grilled onions and grilled tomatoes. Messy ... and yummy. Soups are a strong point of Mr. G's cooking, tasting like they spent long hours simmering on the stove. Chicken Noodle (or large featherweight Matzo Ball or Kreplach), and a hearty Sweet and Sour Cabbage welcome the ensuing dinner plates or daily specials. If you're lucky, you'll be there on Stuffed Cabbage night to enjoy the duo of beefy rolls in a tangy tomato sauce. Hungarian Goulash and Chicken Paprikash will rekindle the spirits of those who thought that real Hungarian paprika never traveled west of the Mississippi. For sides, be brave and try the Potato Latke, a Kishka, or one of the best Noodle Kugels available (other than at my mother's house). Maybe the best of the bunch is the Kasha Varnishkes, a large portion of shells (bowties are too formal!) smothered with sauteed onions and buckwheat groats. I could eat this dish as a meal. (As a matter of fact, I have!) For those who must have desserts, the Noodle Kugel will double in that capacity, if necessary. A sweeter tooth could be soothed by a slice of Baklava.
6929 N. Hayden Rd., Suite 2-C, Scottsdale, 480-367-9477. Fax 480-367-9474.
LD $6-$20+
Havana Cafe — This charming cafe gives you rock solid value and an abundance of flavors that are different and universally satisfying at the same time. With a good sized patio for fair weather, a very friendly and helpful staff (still headed by BJ Hernandez), and a cozy but handsome room for a leisurely repast, this is a super place to take someone you want to get to know better. No matter what you choose to eat here, you won’t be disappointed. There is a nice selection of Appetizers (tapas), although I sometimes laze out and share the Cuban Sampler with a friend (or sometimes several friends). It highlights six of the most popular small plates, giving a varied sampling for a reasonable price. Next will be a beautiful bowl of Black Bean Soup, the national soup of Cuba — perhaps even the national dish of Cuba — with an Escabeche (a spicy tuna ceviche with peppers, onions, orange segments, avocado slivers and green olives) to balance. More often than not, I’m a sucker for the Picadillo. This is a montage of ground beef with sofrito, cubed potatoes, green olives, pimentos, and capers, served with black beans and rice. But, they also do a wonderful Arroz con Pollo in a giant bowl, and the Pierna de Puerco Asada (leg of pork in a sour orange, lime and garlic glaze) is to die for. Desserts are all homemade … and if you still have room, the Marquesa is the Achilles heel of chocoholics!
4225 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-952-1991.
L, $4-$7, SV
In Season Deli
Even though this little self-serve cafe offers, from time to time, tuna or chicken, it is essentially a vegetarian emporium. Just outside the door, on a delightful tree-shaded patio with the lazy sounds of a gurgling waterfall, there are a few family-sized picnic tables perfect for eating and meeting. Soups and salads, the mainstay of the menu, change daily. Some of the best Blue Corn Veggie Tamales in town (possibly in the world), made of three kinds of ground corn and seven different vegetables and spices, are available every day. These massive masa missiles, topped with a zippy chili sauce and shredded jack cheese, are quite a bargain. On Wednesdays and Saturdays only, you can get a crown of homemade guacamole for a buck more. Actually everything is made in house, including the three versions of Honey Lemonade: plain, raspberry, or strawberry. The eight or so salads offered daily (there's no confusing any of these with one another, as each is very distinct and assertive in its own way), are available in combos from two to five. Portions are large, and two salads with a bowl of soup would tame the hunger pangs of the average person — although football players probably could down a couple of fivers! Some of my favorites are the Milano Pasta Basilica, Artichoke Marinade, Pasta in the Sea, Caroline's Pesto, Arroz Olé, Tortellini, Garden Couscous, Summer Bows, Greek Pasta and Indonesian Rice.
414 S. Mill Ave. (Mill Avenue Shops), Suite 112, Tempe, 480-966-0334.
LD, $12-$20+
Islamorada Fish Company (at Bass Pro Shops)
With Cabela's firmly anchoring the west end of town, it was inevitable that the eastside would eventually get something comparable. Well, all good things come to those who wait (or so they say), and Bass Pro Shops, a rival outfitter for those who worship fishing and hunting, has landed with a giant thud (that's the sound that colossal buildings make when they land in shopping centers) in the brand-spanking-new Mesa Riverview shopping conglomeration. I really didn't think it was possible, but Bass is even more spectacular than its predecessor, especially when it comes to the resident restaurant. Actually, Cabela's Cactus Flats Cafe is more or less a glorified snack shop (albeit one that serves elk, wild boar, venison and ostrich), while Bass's Islamorada Fish Company, a bigger and better version of their Florida prototype, serves full meals in a semi-elegant way with mostly elevated prices to match. But the three-story circular dining room is so spectacular, built around a central barbecue with schools of sportsfish hanging from the ceiling and posters made of old photos of fishermen in Islamorada, Florida, lining the walls, that seeing it is a must — and while you're there, spend a few extra buck and have a meal. Mine began with Conch Chowder, proceeding on to Venison Stuffed Mushrooms and a really good Soft Shell Crab Sandwich (with coleslaw, cheese and creamy remoulade dressing) and a very mediocre potato salad (that they claimed bragging rights to!), and ended with a totally different Key Lime Pie served in a giant coffee cup.
1133 N. Dobson Road, Mesa; 602-606-5600; www.fishcompany.com.
(early)BL, $4-$9
Katz's Delicatessen Restaurant
When you're dying to hear a New York accent from a sweet but no nonsense waitress, starving for an overstuffed sandwich or a real egg cream, Katz's is your salvation. How about a Tongue and Eggs Pancake Style breakfast? Or a Cream Cheese and Jelly Omelette (don't knock it 'til you've tried it!)? When's the last time you had Fried Kippered Herring and Onions? It's all here. Have you been treated like chopped liver? That's a compliment if it's like Katz's. Other items of nostalgia recreated adroitly here are Borscht & Sour Cream, Beef & Latkes, Stuffed Cabbage, Kishkas and, surprisingly, the Homemade Bread Pudding. Closes at 2:30pm.
5144 N. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-277-8814.
LD, $7-$15+
Las Glorias Restaurant
The Valley is burgeoning with Mexican Seafood restaurants — and we're certainly grateful of that. The kitchen of this southside eatery, one of the first to land on these shores, does a fine job with the common dishes found around town, but boasts a few that are unique to this spacious, clean and comfortable cafe de mariscos. Also to be noted is the selection "small" ultra-fresh, lemon and cilantro accented Seafood Cocktails (a very adequate size, and what a bargain!) of Shrimp, Octopus, Squid, Abalone and Oysters, as well as a combo Seven Seas Cocktail. Entrees that are Specialties of the House include Fisherman's Rice, Mexican Style Shrimp Turnover, Baked Shrimp/Fillet Mix Culichi Style, bacon-wrapped Shrimp Stuffed with Fish Machaca, Stuffed Fish with White Cheese, and Shrimp Machaca Stuffed Green Chiles. Now that's what I call getting stuffed in style!
5220 S. Central Ave., Phoenix, 602-268-3053.
BLD, $4-$12+
Mariscos Acapulco
To paraphrase Mark Twain, the reports of the demise of this dowdy little hole-in-the-wall place were premature. Not only has it risen from the dead, but don't be surprised if every table is full when you arrive. They again are doing a heck of a business. They also turn tables rather quickly, so your wait shouldn't be too long. Get a glass of Piña Colada or an icy cold bottle of Dos Equis Amber, and in no time you could be devouring one of their giant briny Shrimp, Oyster, Ceviche, Snail, Octopus, Abalone, Mix(t)ed or Campechana Cocktails. You won't find better quality at a seaside restaurant right after the fleet has come in. I love the whole-meal Soups here, especially the Marine Acapulqueña, which contains practically every shellfish known to man. Those who don't like to mix their metaphors can zero in on Shrimp, Fish, Crab or Shrimp balls. The waitresses don't speak much English, but if someone at the next table gets something that looks interesting, point to it and say "I want that." I doubt you'll go wrong.
3220 E. Thomas Road; 602-954-1400.
LD, $10-$13 (Comida Mexicana $4-$10) Closed Tues.
Mariscos Playa Hermosa
When a venerated cuisine magazine such as Gourmet includes a local eatery in an article culled from their faves around the world ("Restaurants We Love," October, 2003), local critics are sure to take notice. The fact that the restaurant so touted is a small "mom and pop" type place in a converted house in a central Phoenix barrio, makes the acknowledgment all the more significant.
The decor is that of the genre: ocean blue walls strewn with nauticalia, perfunctory chairs and tables, a couple of TVs (with their sound off, thank goodness), and a radio with its sound on — pretty loud, as a matter of fact, for such a small place. The menu, I believe, has been pared down from when the article was written, but still has a good range of Mexican seafood basics. The service is kinda hit-and-miss, perhaps partly due to the language barrier. And the Hermosillo-style food, for the most part, is above average to excellent.
The obligatory chips — these tasting of roasted corn — come with a pair of homemade salsas; the red one is nice and smoky with a bit of after-bite, the green a soft and creamy tomatillo with avocado. Good start. The Appetizers run from cheap (a hefty Tostada de Jaiba, with a pile of fresh crabmeat, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers and cilantro, topped by a slice of avocado on a thick and chewy corn tortilla, $3.99) to the more extravagant (Huerfanitos Cameron, Felete de Pescado, Champinones, Pulpo, a mixture of shrimp, fish and octopus in a mushroom cream sauce, $13, and more than enough for two or more to share). Seafood Cocktails are briny fresh and generous enough, in a broth that's not namby-pamby. The Large Campechana of oysters, shrimp, octopus and squid is enough for a light meal ($11.99), as are any of the Soups ($10). We were quite impressed with the Shrimp Meatball.
Specialty Entree plates ($8.50-$13) are sided with veggie-flecked white rice and creamy beans topped with melted fresca shreds, only a slight improvement over the usual. Much more can be said of the seafood that comes with them. Our favorites are the Camarones Fantasia (plump shrimp wrapped with bacon and cheese) and the Pescado a la Taya (a mild, white fish fillet lightly battered and golden fried, topped with chunks of shrimp and very tender octopus in a blanket of mushroom sauce). The Mar y Tierra is somewhat ill-conceived, pairing naturally tender seafood with naturally not-so-tender meat, but I think you'll really like the Enchilada de Jaiba (crab enchilada in red mole) and the Camarones a la Crema de Broccoli (just what it sounds like — rich cream and broccoli shrimp), among many others.
1605 E. Garfield St., Phoenix, 602-462-1563. Fax 602-462-5576.
BLD, $4-$11, Closed Sun.
New York Bagels 'n Bialys
It's amazing what a change of ownership can do for the attitude at a restaurant. The old frown-on-the-face counterperson with the customer is always wrong mind-set has been replaced with one who will go out of their way to be helpful, and, as they say on Air America, that's a very good thing. Now if you're hungry for a good and hefty Brisket or Pastrami and Tongue Sandwich, a fluffy Rueben or Spanish Potato Omelette, a NY Baked Salmon or Fish Fantasy Platter, a bowl of hearty Cabbage (depending on the daily special) or Matzo Ball Soup, or a yummy Garlic, Spinach and Bacon Bialy Dough Pizza, this could be your stomping grounds. You'll also find many of your favorites here, including Chopped Liver, Potato Knishes, and Potato Pancakes. Nineteen kinds of bagels (have you tried a White or Black Russian?) and 16 of Bialys (Tutti Fruity, Chocolate and Jalapeño being among the most unusual) could keep the average person busy for months! New York Egg Creams are de rigueur, of course. For dessert, a Halvah Bar or Rugulah will give it all a sweet ending.
6990 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale, 480-991-3034. Fax 480-483-9756.
BL(early)D $7.50-$10
Scratch Pastries
You’ll find it really doesn’t take a lot of scratch to have delicious, nourishing food at this cute new Scottsdale eatery-cum-bakery. Breakfast can be as simple as a muffin or croissant and a cup of coffee, but why not make it a Chocolate Croissant or a Banana Nut Muffin? Or, better yet, a Quiche Lorraine (with cheese, bacon and ham). Want more cheese in your quiche? They have a most agreeable Four Cheese version, with ricotta, blue, goat and comte for a mouthful of complimentary tastes. Spinach with Goat Cheese and White Button and Crimini mark the two alternatives, each served with an organic spring greens salad and their yummy house vinaigrette. Sandwiches, with a bit of green salad too, are always great for the mid-day meal, and Scratch offers some unusual ones like Smoked Duck Breast and Foie Gras with Caramelized Sweet Onions. There’s a Brie Cheese Sandwich and a Goat Cheese Sandwich, the latter being grilled with herbs. Meat eaters will find an Italian Ham, Aged Comte and French Butter and a simply delicious Chicken Breast with Dijon Mustard Mayo. An extensive case of pastries completes the picture, with scrumptious looking creations. We can attest to the Three Chocolate Mousse, Paris Brest (with pistachio and praline), a Mont Blanc (like a creamy chestnut mousse) and a Large Macaroon. Now you test the rest.
7620 E. Indian School Road, Scottsdale, 480-947-0057. www.scratchpastries.com.
(early)BL(early)D, $4-$8, Closed Sun.
Park Central Deli
Formerly Miracle Mile Deli, but only the name was changed, not the owners. The office workers in the Central Corridor know this place well, as the lunchtime crowds will attest to. Fortunately, the folks who run this place have their act together, and the lines move at amazingly fast speeds. Sandwiches are stuffed (try the Straw: pastrami with sauerkraut and melted Swiss cheese on grilled rye), soups are homemade (the vegetable, always available, must have all seven daily servings in one bowlful), and the prices are most reasonable (a hearty portion of Lox, Onion, & Eggs is under $4, including a bagel and home-style spuds). Eat in one of two large indoor rooms or on one of the two patios (the one on the south side has a lovely koi pond and waterfall.)
9 Park Central Mall (Central Ave. at Catalina), Phoenix, 602-277-4783, www.parkcentraldeli.com.
BLD, $5-$11, SV
San Diego Bay Restaurant
Many seafood lovers still are going to the big emporiums like Steamers and the Fish Market, unaware of the recent local invasion by the Mexican-style seafood eateries where you can get absolutely briny-fresh fish and crustaceans prepared simply but expertly, at Rocky Point (rock bottom) prices. At San Diego Bay, for instance, you can have a plate of wonderful large shrimp breaded, or done Ranch or Veracruz style, or with a wickedly hot or garlic sauce, or in Flautas or Enchiladas, for under a ten spot. Start with a plate of tangy Nopalitos (pickled cactus pads) or a sprightly Ceviche Tostada and add a large bowl of 7 Seas or Turtle Soup and you have a very satisfying meal indeed. You can trust the octopus here to be as tender as a baby's you-know-what, and whole red snappers are treated with reverence. (Yes, at market prices — but they're southside market prices.) If you must have a daily piece of meat, the menu even has a pair of grilled beef selections to go with a modest selection of Mexican beers. And, you can't go wrong ending your meal with a sweet and creamy flan.
9201 Ave. del Yaqui (Guadalupe and Priest, in El Tianguis), Guadalupe, 480-839-2991.
BL(early)D, $4-$13
Scott's Generations
The photos on the walls indicate one enormous happy family — all of papa Scott's generations. This is about as close to a New York deli as you will find in the Valley. The accents are New York, the free morning paper is New York (actually, it's the Arizona Republic, but it's the intention, not the gift itself, that counts), the thick lean pastrami sandwiches are New York, so is the Matzo Brie, the Kasha Varnishkas, the Sliced Sable, the Kishka and Gravy, the Pickled Herring, the Noodle Kugel, the Knish, the Stuffed Cabbage, and the Dr. Brown Cel-Ray Soda. Although you can't tell from the name, the Harvey's Triple-Decker of turkey, chopped liver and bacon will take you right back to Delancey Street! And, then there's The New Yorker — what could be more Big Apple than corned beef & pastrami, coleslaw and Russian dressing piled high on a couple of slices of "rye with seeds." What was very un-New York — the missing Chicken in the Pot (although now, even when you can get it, most of the chicken is missing), Roast Brisket, and other platter-type meals — has finally been corrected. That is, if you can order your Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday dinner before 8pm! Other days, the restaurant closes at 5pm (4pm Sundays) — a little early to get the dinner crowd. Along with the traditional dinner additions are a few oddities you'll notice in a New York minute. Try asking for Herb Crusted Pan Seared Salmon or Macadamia Crusted Chicken Breast in the shadow of the Williamsburg Bridge! If you're lucky, you'll only get a Yoo-Hoo!
5539 N. 7th St., Phoenix, 602-277-5662. Fax 602-277-3161.
LD, $4-$9, closed Sun./Mon.
The Supreme Master Ching Hai Vegetarian House
This unpretentious cafe is proof positive that what's good for you can taste good, too! If I were a vegetarian, this would be my Cheers!, for I can't imagine another place in town with the variety of meatless dishes exhibited here — and the vast majority is very good indeed. Yes, their meat substitutes ("made gently & lovingly," according to the menu) are made to, well, substitute — taste-wise — for the pork, shrimp, chicken, squid, beef, and others. But, don't be let down if they aren't identical. Actually, a few are better, but all are tasty, even if somewhat different. Sauteed Duck with Ginger is delicious (and won't clog your arteries), Eel with Bamboo Shoots and Chinese Mushroom is much more satisfying than exotic, and Meat Shell with Sweet Basil is delightfully different. Be sure to check out their Hot Pots, Clay Pots and Sizzling Plates. Other goodies range from soups to desserts.
3239 E. Indian School Rd., Phoenix, 602-264-3480. Fax 602-264-3480.
LD, $5-$15+
Taylor's Chowder House
Good seafood is scarce in the desert—unless you want to pay through the teeth. Personally, I'd prefer to use my teeth for chewing on some nice fat-bellied Ipswich clams, along with plump Maryland oysters, fabulous Mexican blue shrimp, sweet and tender Nantucket sea scallops and golden Alaskan coldwater cod fillets. Actually, you can have all of that, in addition to a couple of bowls of spunky Manhattan clam chowder, a basket of fresh warm mini loaves of bread, a pile of crunchy waffle fries, a mound of creamy coleslaw, and even a shared dessert, leave a generous tip, and still get change back from a 40-dollar bill!
3538 W. Calavar Road, (northwest of 35th Ave. and Thunderbird Rd.), Phoenix, 602-978-1815.
LD, $5-$14, SV
Udupi Cafe
Pure vegetarian, from the southwest coast of India, roughly halfway between Bombay and the southernmost point at Cape Comorin, this mid-size eatery specializes in crepes, pancakes, dumplings and patties along with a wide variety of curries. Even if you think you're pretty hip on Indian cuisine, here you will find some pleasant surprises. Iddly (more commonly Idli) are flying saucer-shaped dumplings made from (fermented) rice and lentils. I think they're bland, but they are served with Chutney and Sambar (like a spicy lentil stew) for more appeal, and can be ordered with cashews, carrots and coriander. On weekends Rava Iddly is offered, which substitutes wheat for the rice, so it has a little more body. Vada are deep-fried lentil doughnuts, also served with chutney and sambar, and are available in a few varieties. Chaat Papri has a crisp flour cookie base sprinkled with puffed rice, crispy noodles and yogurt tossed with potatoes, onions, fresh coriander and tamarind chutney, for a lively plethora of carbs. Dosai are thin crepes made from a fermented rice and lentil batter, and can be filled like blintzes. In fact, Udupi has 18 varieties (one is hidden under House Specialties). Uthappam (uttappam), also made from the same batter, are more like pancakes, thicker than a dosa and thinner than an iddly. Here you will also find many types of breads, some stuffed, some not. The House Specialties include a few dishes so complex that even my Dictionary of Ethnic Foods doesn't cover some of the ingredients. Fortunately you don't have to pronounce them — or even know everything in them — to enjoy them. Best bets are the Deluxe Dinners of many dishes, which go from $11.99 to $13.99, and give you mini banquets.
1636 N. Scottsdale Road (south of McKellips Road), Tempe, 480-994-8787. Fax 480-994-8789.
